Thats what I thought too. The floor said I could raise because "the betting had been reopened" or some crap. Everyone at the table was acting like they understood it too.

Belongs in BBV but I was allowed to shovel the money in pre and got called by UTG guy for 100BB. In the end I was able to scoop 300BB pot and had 60% equity getting 2:1 lol livepoker

It would really help if you used capital letters and paragraphs and stuff.

Paragraphs are good yeah. As for that hand I think betting pot on the river is a bit excesive. I would lean towards 1/2 pot. You are trying to get called by a hand like KJ.

But if you really want help, go to the the stickies. I beleive it is poster WCGRider who has a whole series on how to beat 1c/2c online. He did a super good job and everything you need to win is in there.

Good luck.

Has there ever been a consideration of having two BQ forums? One for live and one for online. I am a live player and would prefer a live BQ forum, but it is not critical or anything. The present BQ is quite well managed. Just wondering if it had been tried before and is not worth the division.

http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/17...low-stakes-nl/

"Never trust a junkie" - Chloe Webb (as Nancy Spungen, "Sid and Nancy")

Omaha indicator what is a good vpip of a reg tho fish or tag
Lag

Hi all:

I play 50NL bovada Zone. So, I guess you can't really say that I am a noob. But, I put this here because I still feel like a noob, esp., since I still have a few leaks.

http://youtu.be/Ia9raGKJ0jI

http://youtu.be/Ia9raGKJ0jI

But, I do want to say that I am making progress and learning fast. I show, here, a hand where normally a person would leak a lot of money. It is a set. In the past, I would have leaked. But, looking at the flop, I just figured that there was no way I could bet a flush draw off their draw. So, I was just in tight pot control mode.

I felt that I had to make at least one call and I did so on the turn. But, if the Riv had been a large bet, I'd let it go.

My thinking is that I could let the Riv pair the board and then I'd be strong again. But, in that spot, a lone set is a marginal hand.

I feel that I am growing as a poker player, as evidenced by not over valueing a set in that spot. :- )

Thanks for watching!

signed: Noob.

Does a HUD/Tracking-Software effect my live play?
I am afrait to buy one,because i maybe got a disadvantage in live games against someone who doesn't play poker with software.

Is this true?

I answer you with a counter question.

Is it profitable for me to get dependent on addictive substances that screw up my brain chemistry to make self-reliant logical decisions?

If you want to become a better performer you have to work for it, no shortcuts. Eat healthy, do sports/fitness, good sleep management and so on. A ridicules amount of people can't even function without caffeine anymore and can't see the fault in that...

No

Why would you ever want to "bet a flush draw off their draw"?

You want to bet enough to make it incorrect for draws to call. If he folds, that's fine, you make money. If he calls, that's fine, you make money.

Instead you're giving any a free look to out-draw you.

If you get check/raised on the flop then you have some deciding to do. Betting flop is super standard.

Could you explain it?

Hi guys

I've been dabbling with mtts lately and didnt have much sucess.

My question is: for relatively large fields (1k~2k players), how should a winning player chips/hand graph look? Is it always going down since you lose chips unless you finish 1st? Does the chipEV go up if you play well? I'm talking longterm here obviously.

I feel i've been running horribly but just dont know how to check if its that bad or i'm just making too many mistakes.

Thank ya

Hi,

Can you recommend some HUSNG blogs?

Post hands

Good morning,
I definitely have a noob question.....

When it is recommended to have 20 x the buyin ( as far as a Bankroll goes ),
in order to help you survive any drastic downswings / drawdowns

Does this mean 20 x the " Minimum " buyin amount
or does it mean 20 x the " Maximum ' buyin amount ?

Say that I'm wanting to play Live $1/$3 NL
The minimum buyin is $100
The maximum buyin is $300

So given the above..... Do I need at " minimum " a $2,000 Bankroll
or do I need a $6,000 Bankroll ?

What has me confused, is that I have read online, to have 20 x the buyin as far as a Bankroll goes ( well, if the buyin is $100 minimum, then $2,000 would be sufficient )

BUT..... Then I read, that you need to have full Leverage , and be able to maximize your $ , and to do so, this would be buying in for the Maximum amount... $300 in this example I.E. needing a $6,000 bankroll

Thanks so much for any help and insight into my questions,
hopefully it's not to confusing, as to what I am trying to ask and understand.
Thanks - Michael

20 x 100 big blinds is what is generally meant, so for 1/3 live that would be 6k.

FWIW I think 20x the buyin is probably insufficient; for online games at least, if you can't easily replenish your bankroll I'd want at least 40-50 times the buyin.

The bankroll requirements are almost entirely down to your edge in the game, because that determines your variance. The bigger an edge you have, the smaller your bankroll can be.

Of course, most people don't have an edge. And most people with an edge sorely overestimate it.

We have KK in 6-handed cash game.

Let's say we begin to raise and reraise preflop vs standard TAG.

If he shoves and we are 100 big blind deep, it's a snap call.
If we are 200 big blind deep? 300? 400?

Should we consider folding preflop with how many big blinds?


Now let's say oppo is super-aggro and we saw him shipping for 300 big blinds with AK. It's +EV to go allin with him, but if he peels the Ace we lose a lot and we will take a lot of time to win those 300 bb back. Does this make sense?

We don't consider folding, we consider calling 4bets/5bets/6bets rather than 5bet/6bet/7betting.

Thank you for the reply to my Buyin Question from earlier

I was reading through some Poker Blogs, and 2 particular questions arose,
and was hoping to get some help and clarification on understanding them please.....

1. The Short-Stack All-In

" Take this example to begin with:
•Player 1 raises to $100 with $900 left in his stack.
•Player 2 goes all-in for $225.
•You look down at pocket aces.

In this type of situation, many players will make a large raise looking to isolate against the all-in bet. The logic behind this move is sound:
•If your opponent is moving all-in, chances are they have a premium hand, meaning you have them completely dominated.
•Being a huge favorite to win against any one hand keeps the variance and risk lower than allowing other hands into the pot.

Isolating your big hands against only one opponent can be a good idea for the aforementioned reasons. But an isolation raise in this scenario can be a mistake for the very same reasons. Your hand plays very well against any one other random hand.


Knowing what the third man in is going to do is key to surviving in large pots.



Consider this: you're getting it all-in against player 2 no matter what your choice. You no longer have any control over whether you win or lose the main pot.

If you smooth-call the all-in, allowing the third player into the pot, you're now basically pitting your aces against one hand, two times. In this scenario, if you can build a side pot large enough to cover your investment in the main pot, winning the side will freeroll you into the main pot with the best hand "


My main question comes from this paragraph....
" If you smooth-call the all-in, allowing the third player into the pot, you're now basically pitting your aces against one hand, two times. In this scenario, if you can build a side pot large enough to cover your investment in the main pot, winning the side will freeroll you into the main pot with the best hand "

What is meant by a Side Pot , and also, what does freeroll mean in this scenario ?



2. On the Flop

" The flop comes 6♠ 7♠ 2♥. You bet $25 and the first two limpers fold; the button smooth-calls.

Your opponent called your raise after limping on the button and has now called your flop. You can take a huge number of hands out of his range.

First, you can eliminate the overcards. Our TAG opponent would fold the flop after missing.

Chances are if he had 8-8 or 7-7 or some other overpair to the board, he would have raised the flop, so you can also discount those. "

My main question regarding this paragraph is....
Why can we eliminate are opponent having Over Cards on a Flop like this ?
And why would a TAG opponent be likely to fold on a flop like this with overcards..... would they not call a bet if they are getting the right odds to make the call , in hopes of hitting on the turn and or river
The only thing " scary " on this flop, is a flush draw, and a possible set that may make are TAG opponent nervous?
But since we raised pre-flop, wouldn't are TAG opponent eliminate us from likely having ..... 22, 66 or 77 ?
Maybe they're putting us on an OverPair , due to are pre-flop raise ?



Thanks so much for the insight and help,
as always, I realy appreciate it

In your example, the short stack (let's call him V1) has a stack of $225. The most he can win from each player in the hand is $225. So let's see what happens if you and the other player (V2) keep betting past his $225 shove. It doesn't matter whether you do so by re-raising preflop or by betting on later streets. The key point is that (assuming there are no blinds or other bets made by other players) the most that V1 can win is $775. This is the main pot. All of the money that you and V2 bet past this sum can't be won by V1. It is therefore segregated as a side pot.

At the end of the hand the main pot is given to whoever has the best hand out of you, V1 and V2 (assuming neither you nor V2 folded before a river showdown - if one of you did then the main pot goes to whoever wins out of V1 and the survivor of you and V2 at any point in the hand - although all board cards will be dealt out). The side pot can only be won by you or V2, so it will be distributed to whoever wins on showdown (or if the other folds).

When the writer mentions a freeroll there he is basically saying that if you win the side pot then that might repay what you've paid into the main pot, so in a sense you have a shot at winning $775 but you might already have won back the equivalent of your $225.

You need to think about who has the initiative in the hand. You are the preflop raiser, and your opponent just called. This (in very broad terms) suggests to all involved that you might have the stronger hand. On the flop, you're out of position. If the flop hasn't improved your opponent's hand, he may fold to your continuation bet. He might of course float, essentially calling to see what you do on the turn, perhaps in the belief that you will shut down and he can then take the pot away from you by betting. He might also have been trapping you with a monster pre-flop. But as you have the initiative in the hand your opponent will often have to respect your continuation bet and fold if he has something like KQ (no spades).

As for the possibility of you having a set, why would raising preflop mean that you don't have 22, 66 or 77? There are certainly circumstances in which you might open with these (certainly 66 or 77). If you open limp your small-medium pocket pairs, that's probably costing you quite a lot of money.

I'm not sure the writer is correct in saying that 77 would necessarily raise the flop here (he describes it as an overpair so perhaps he made a mistake with that).

Where are you quoting from?

It's 20x whatever you buy-in. If you're short stacking scum, it's 20x your short stack. If you buy-in deep, it's 20x your deep stack.

But keep in mind, it's a rule of thumb. High variance games require larger bankrolls. So do games where you have less of an edge. And if you're a losing player you don't have a bankroll, you have a budget.