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07-30-2011 , 04:12 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by adkZander
Pretty dumb question but when people say they are playing any game like 4/8 LHE... Is 4 and 8 the blind amounts or does it mean that 4 is the big blind and 8 is the min raise amount? Can someone reply with an answer in the format of 1/2 NLHE since that seems pretty straightforward and small numbers
In limit the numbers are small bet and big bet and the small bet is = to the big blind. So in 4/8 LHE the small blind would be 2 the big blind would be 4, the betting on the first 2 rounds would be 4 and on the second 2 rounds 8.

Ray
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07-30-2011 , 11:04 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by adkZander
Pretty dumb question but when people say they are playing any game like 4/8 LHE... Is 4 and 8 the blind amounts or does it mean that 4 is the big blind and 8 is the min raise amount? Can someone reply with an answer in the format of 1/2 NLHE since that seems pretty straightforward and small numbers

It's always been my understanding that the 4/8 in 4/8 LHE refers to the size of the bets, not the size of the blinds.

Thus, the SB would be $2, the BB would be $4, and the bet size on the first two betting rounds (PF and on the flop) is $4. On the turn and river, bet size is $8.

The 1/2 in 1/2 NLHE refers to the size of the blinds.

But then, I don't play limit.


--klez
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07-30-2011 , 04:38 PM
I seem to be wrong. sorry for the misinformation
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07-31-2011 , 04:42 AM
how do i start my own thread on here
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07-31-2011 , 10:14 AM


Always read the FAQs and stickies first.
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07-31-2011 , 12:59 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by klezmaniac
It's always been my understanding that the 4/8 in 4/8 LHE refers to the size of the bets, not the size of the blinds.

Thus, the SB would be $2, the BB would be $4, and the bet size on the first two betting rounds (PF and on the flop) is $4. On the turn and river, bet size is $8.

The 1/2 in 1/2 NLHE refers to the size of the blinds.

But then, I don't play limit.


--klez
It refers to the size of the blinds in LHE also.
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07-31-2011 , 02:10 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by King Spew
Alex,
.02/.05 is 5NL (It is found by multiplying the BB x 100)
villain 80BB
Hero 70BB

It's only .02 to call.....is a common trap. Never think about money...only think about chips. Otherwise you could say that a person should never play 5000NL because a big blind of $50 is a ton of money. The fact that it is two pennies means nothing. Think in terms of how many blinds does it represent is WAY more important in your progression as a poker player. Tough thinking to overcome for most....but you MUST learn to forget about how many hamburgers you can buy with the money.

NEVER call OOP because it is cheap. Seriously, K7 can be an insta-fold PF against unknowns. You haven't included suits so I assume that K7o (means K7 are offsuit...not the same)...you give no suits for flop so it must be KQ2r (rainbow, no two of the same). It makes a difference!

Homework for you Alex: Why does it make a difference?

Think about it this way: the only major reasons you call PF OOP with garbage is because you have an awesome read on villain that he can either (1) be bluffed off a better hand or (2) will pay you off when you hit a monster OOP. OOP is the key as YOU will have to define your hand before villain. If the board runs out 4 to a straight or three/four to a flush and you are OOP.... Are you getting paid if you have the best hand? K7o is really a horrible hand to play OOP. Horrible no matter what the price. And K7s (suited the same) is not very much better at all since you will be trying to build a big pot OOP with a flushy board....you probably won't get paid off. So the FIRST and best advice for this hand (situation) is to fold PF..and it's not even close.

But let's move on and you made the mistake to play this hand. You hit top pair with a bad kick. And you get raised on your flop bet. Without an awesome read that villain is an aggro-monkey, this is an easy release. And Alex...87s raised PF at times is a very good play (based on table dynamics) so if your one and only read is that villain raised 87s PF....THIS doesn't make him an aggro-monkey.

Learn to recognized a bad situation like this will save you beaucoup money in the future

Homework assignment #2: Why is this a fold on the flop? ...and if you felt you were ahead on the flop, why didn't you reraise him?

Homework #3: I am assuming that villain limped in PF from late position. Please give us a range of hands that would limp pre-flop, yet raise your flop bet.
#1 it makes a difference because the flush draw, obviously. Well not only, but in this case it's the most screaming example. Calling weak hands as SB never again, got it.

#2 Instant fold, right. If i was strong enough I would no doubt re-raise him. The bad kicker didn't help since he could have K10, KJ and i was beaten. But even after the mistake of playing the hand, how do I spot this kind of "aggro-monkeys"?

#3 Any suited connectors or small pairs for sure, he hit the straight draw and re-raised my small bet to end it right there I guess, however it's the small bet on the turn that still makes me confuse. maybe it was an excellent play?

Quote:
Originally Posted by King Spew
In typing my last response to Alex, I realized it began to touch the premise of an article I wrote a few years ago. Cold calling and limping behind are similar. Perhaps you will find the article useful,,, especially the part where I hijacked Bluff or Bust

Concept of the Week- Advanced cold calling
I'll be sure to read the entire article again, because right now I just have all kinds of concepts running though my mind and the amount of information seems huge, but from what I understand the worst thing you can do is check/call unless you're slow playing? It wasn't the point of the article but it's something that did stick with me.
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07-31-2011 , 08:49 PM
Do the stars FPP ever expire? I'm on around 680 and still bronze. I don't know whether to cash it once I reach 750 or wait. I am a very low volume play atm
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07-31-2011 , 10:51 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedGladiator
Do the stars FPP ever expire? I'm on around 680 and still bronze. I don't know whether to cash it once I reach 750 or wait. I am a very low volume play atm

From the PokerStars VIP club FAQ

Do my FPPs expire?
FPPs only expire if you do not earn any FPP Credits within one calendar year. For instance, if you earn any Frequent Player Points in the year 2010, your FPPs will not expire that year. However, if you earn no FPPs in the 2011 calendar year, your FPPs will expire on January 1st, 2012.
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08-01-2011 , 12:10 AM
what is a nit. is it a complement,or insult
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08-01-2011 , 12:11 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by sidechoke13
what is a nit. is it a complement,or insult
Beginners Forum Frequently Asked Questions
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08-01-2011 , 07:59 AM
what is an adequate sample size to know u have beaten a cash level, such as 10nl, and how many bbs per thousand hands should i be winning?
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08-01-2011 , 11:59 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schoolboy
what is an adequate sample size to know u have beaten a cash level, such as 10nl, and how many bbs per thousand hands should i be winning?
The actual number is an argument that is still on-going. After 50k hand, you might be able to have the slightest hint... after 100k hands, things should look at least somewhat clear. To know why there isn't any set number.. play around with a poker variance simulator to see what kind of variance you can have with a decent winrate.

Obviously anything higher than 0 or 1 is good.. and the higher the better.. but it depends on what levels you are playing and what game you are playing (fr, 6m, hu...plo.. nlhe.. lhe etc).
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08-01-2011 , 03:42 PM
I've played online for years now (complete hobby), and just figured I would jump in on this forum. I honestly believe that no matter what cards you hold, in any given situation it is all based on pure LUCK. I mean, we have all made donkey calls here & there, but for someone to reraise all in on a flop of [J 10 2] with 26off late in a tournament to bust QQ happens all day long. You have the standard "steal the blind" method, and you call that allin with a dominating hand AQs vs J8o, 10s in the bb with J9raise allin.. and they hit. Every time. ?? Do I just happen to run bad a lot or what? It's unreal.

I must add that this has consistently happened on the site BoDOG after FullTilt shut down and no longer allowed US players. It's my only option, and I do enjoy playing... but these beats/plays are just awful.
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08-01-2011 , 04:03 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Miss Mandy Whitt
I honestly believe that no matter what cards you hold, in any given situation it is all based on pure LUCK.
facepalm.jpg

So what's the point of you posting here? Just go play slots or something.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Miss Mandy Whitt
I mean, we have all made donkey calls here & there, but for someone to reraise all in on a flop of [J 10 2] with 26off late in a tournament to bust QQ
Board: Jc Td 2h
Dead:

equity win tie pots won pots tied
Hand 0: 81.616% 81.62% 00.00% 43632 0.00 { QQ }
Hand 1: 18.384% 18.38% 00.00% 9828 0.00 { 62o }



If the weatherman calls for a 20% chance of rain today, do you curse the rigged news station because there were some light showers in the afternoon?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Miss Mandy Whitt
happens all day long.
It doesn't happen any more often than it should.

And if it does, take the ten minutes required to prove it and then we'll have another huge scandal. Maybe this time you'll be the one on 60 minutes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Miss Mandy Whitt
You have the standard "steal the blind" method, and you call that allin with a dominating hand AQs vs J8o, 10s in the bb with J9raise allin.. and they hit.
At least we've established you don't understand what "dominating" means.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Miss Mandy Whitt
Every time. ?? Do I just happen to run bad a lot or what? It's unreal.
Everyone gets their share of bad beats. Good players win despite the bad beats. Bad players use them as an excuse for losing. The reason you're a losing player is because you don't don't do well enough in your non-bad beat hands to make up for your beats. And since your analysis of your own play is entirely superficial all you focus on is the big losses from your coolers and beats and conclude that they're the reason for your problems. While it's quite likely you're misplaying a lot of these hands too, you almost certainly have far more important leaks. Particularly considering the content of this post.

You are now at a crossroads. You either choose to learn how to play this game or you get relegated to posting in places like these:

http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/28...dition-255990/
http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/54...rags-variance/

Up to you.
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08-02-2011 , 03:23 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Miss Mandy Whitt
I've played online for years now (complete hobby) and I honestly believe that no matter what cards you hold, in any given situation it is all based on pure LUCK.
Well,,, this seems like such HUGE speculation on my part but it doesn't bode so well for you that you have been playing for years now yet still hold such a noobish idea about online poker?
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08-02-2011 , 03:39 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by AAAAlex_
#1 it makes a difference because the flush draw, obviously. Well not only, but in this case it's the most screaming example. Calling weak hands as SB never again, got it.

I was hoping for something a little more in depth than this Alex. Something like "There is a higher likelihood that villain is semi-bluffing with a FD....."



#2 Instant fold, right. If i was strong enough I would no doubt re-raise him. The bad kicker didn't help since he could have K10, KJ and i was beaten. But even after the mistake of playing the hand, how do I spot this kind of "aggro-monkeys"?

I hardly ever say Insta-fold when holding top pair... definately consider thinking before folding here because.........

As to how to spot the monkeys.... pay attention is my best advice. Look for morons playing alot of hands OOP aggressively is a start. What else should you look for?

#3 Any suited connectors or small pairs for sure, he hit the straight draw and re-raised my small bet to end it right there I guess, however it's the small bet on the turn that still makes me confuse. maybe it was an excellent play?
Here's a bit about #3. Sooted connectors and small pairs are not the only hands in villain's range. He could even hold AA....if he felt someone behind was going to raise his limp PF....or he likes to slow play rockets......or maybe not even AA,, but QQ. Not everyone raised rockets PF ALL the time.... I sure don't. It depends a lot on table dynamics...of which you provide little.

But more on #3: I can GUARANTEE that if I EVER held a top pair hand and I checked like you did on the turn (then villain minibets, you raise) and then get popped big time... I am releasing my hand quicker than you can say "Insta-fold". (without a HUGE aggrtard read) Minbet to jam is almost always the near-nuts or better. Learn that before venturing higher Alex. There will be times you are folding the best hand....but the vast majority of the time....yer stack is moving in the wrong direction.
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08-02-2011 , 07:23 PM
2NL fish question.

I tend to play pretty tight OOP, say I might often fold ATo UTG.

Should I be playing hands like K9s, Q9s, Q10o, 67s, A3o, K7s if it's folded to me in the CO or BTN? What is more important - that I have a positional edge or a hand strength edge?

The majority of the time I've been folding these hands because I tend to get into tough spots post-flop.
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08-02-2011 , 07:36 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopCat123
2NL fish question.

I tend to play pretty tight OOP, say I might often fold ATo UTG.

Should I be playing hands like K9s, Q9s, Q10o, 67s, A3o, K7s if it's folded to me in the CO or BTN? What is more important - that I have a positional edge or a hand strength edge?

The majority of the time I've been folding these hands because I tend to get into tough spots post-flop.
You can OPEN with these hands on the button. Don't play hands you are not comfortable playing. Open your button range as you develop your positional/hand reading skills.
I recently saw one of verneer's vids where he opened 70% or something on the button. Also consider your opponent's when you decide your button opening range. You want nitty players in the blinds or those that play fit/fold, it's very profitable to have a wider range against these types. I'll tighten up and play hands like KT Q9 AJ rather than 67 suited against fish/short stacks.
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08-02-2011 , 07:45 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedGladiator
You can OPEN with these hands on the button. Don't play hands you are not comfortable playing. Open your button range as you develop your positional/hand reading skills.
I recently saw one of verneer's vids where he opened 70% or something on the button. Also consider your opponent's when you decide your button opening range. You want nitty players in the blinds or those that play fit/fold, it's very profitable to have a wider range against these types. I'll tighten up and play hands like KT Q9 AJ rather than 67 suited against fish/short stacks.
Where can I find venneer's videos btw?

If I have a loose player in the blinds, say players who will call with any-two broadways or A9+ - is it wise to tighten up?

I do try and stay on tables with nittier players to my left but often I want to stay on a table because I have terrible players on my right.
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08-02-2011 , 08:04 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopCat123
Where can I find venneer's videos btw?
At Cardrunners. Here's a thread with some great info to get you pointed in the right direction:
Recommended Cardrunners Micros videos
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08-02-2011 , 08:52 PM
I have my account here defaulted to logged in. If I want to e-mail a thread to a friend, is there an easy way to not have what I send be "logged in"? I don't want someone posting under my account. Thanks.
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08-02-2011 , 09:05 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9:15
I have my account here defaulted to logged in. If I want to e-mail a thread to a friend, is there an easy way to not have what I send be "logged in"? I don't want someone posting under my account. Thanks.
You being logged in has only to do with your browser on your computer that you logged in with. There is nothing in the link you would be sending that contains your login information. That information is not found in the address bar link that you would be copying.
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08-02-2011 , 09:36 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ReidLockhart
You being logged in has only to do with your browser on your computer that you logged in with. There is nothing in the link you would be sending that contains your login information. That information is not found in the address bar link that you would be copying.
Thanks. Sorry if that was a dumb question. I'm just paranoid.
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08-02-2011 , 09:42 PM
edit: Wrong page woops
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