Thank you so much! I would like also to share that, you have great marketing 'presentation' or i dont know which word to use, but the thing with having a 2nd try to test the trial is great and thats one of the reasons I Choose Hm2.

So I lost my poker journal to an iOS update like a year ago...any chance I can get those files back at all to import into new app?

Hi everyone I am after some advice regarding my pokerstars account not sure if this is the right place to post this.when the so called poker boom first came about I like so many others opened a pokerstars account and had a dabble so to speak nothing serious I'm what the experts here would call a fish I suppose.playing poker to me is a bit of fun depositing twenty or thirty dollars at a time and see how long it lasts then maybe a month or two later have another go.i have no desire to become a poker pro expert or anything like that.ok back to my question,when I first made my pokerstars account I played on a normal dell computer which I sold and then went over to Apple.go forward five or six years and I decide to play some online poker again so I download the pokerstars and open a new account with my new e mail address but obviously with the same personal details etc,deposit some money and off I went no problems.if by some miracle I win one of those spin and go jackpots am I now classed as a multi accounter and will lose my money and have my account closed down?should I contact pokerstars and tell them I may have two different accounts running simultaneously?ive only thought about it quite recently since reading this forum over the last few months or so.maybe pokerstars are aware of this and see I'm the same player just using a different e mail and computer and are happy enough for me to carry on playing as normal.any advice would be appreciated.

My suggestion is you should write to their support and explain them detail like you said here.. (If you can remember, include your old email and screen name)

Then let them solve it for you..or you can ask if may, which account you want to hold on to..

I have the same experience few years back and they did it for me..No problem..

Cheers and Good luck

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im on carbon. hm2 or pt4?

beating NL2 quite easily with BR at $80, so planning to move up to 5NL when I get to $100. Question is, if I start losing at 5NL when should i move back down? $50 i was thinking?

I'd move down sooner, round about $80. If you have to win 25BI to take another shot, you might get frustrated and keep playing 5NL.

nice one

I have a few noob questions and would really apreacite if someone gave an answer:

1) Can you ALWAYS rely on the multiplication rule to calculate the percentage of making your hand? So if i have pocket fives and flop comes Ace King Ten, I assume i have to make a set to have best hand, i have 2 outs (2 other fives), so my chances of making it by the river are outs times four (8%), and if we're at the turn my chances are cut in half to make it by the river (4%)

2) How many hours of play or hands at live poker do you need to consider before concluding if you're a winning player or not?

3) If i am in a hand, what am I not aloud to say? When it's my action, can i say something like "I think you have Kings"? It seems when i watch poker games people say what ever comes to their mind, but if you sayone word at a cash game everyone looks at you like you raped their children.

4) How does a bad-beat jackpot work? Is it when a straight/royal flush beats a full house at showdown?

Thanks

1 - it's a rough guide that works a lot better if you don't have many outs. it's good enough that you're not going to be making a huge error

2 - if you played it as a full time job you'd be doing about 40k hands a year, that's not that huge a number relatively to reduce your SD that much. if you were a huge winner, then maybe you'd know

3 - just stfu and play your cards, you're not on tv

4 - going to be venue specific, ask. frequently you need aces full/quads beaten and you normally need to use both hole cards. frankly i'd look to a room that doesn't have it if you can

For #1, you have 2 outs, you know 5 cards, so you are 2/47 to hit on the turn (4.25%), then 45/47 * 2/46 to hit on the river, so 90/2162 = 4.16%. You should probably change the odds a bit because you "know" what at least one of villain's cards are in your example, but you can see it's close enough. The problems generally come in PLO where you have tons of backdoor draws that can easily add 1% 3 or 4 times and you have to catch them all. But more broadly, the bigger problem is that it's just not a big deal most of the time. What matters is how your hand does against villain's range. Or ideally, what your range does vs. villain's. 55 has a lot more equity on AKT than 8.5% against any realistic range.

For #2, basically never. You never reach sample size because your play changes over the course of the year, as does the standard of play at that casino based on who plays there. You can get a rough idea of your win rate when you get really good, really experienced, and really careful about fooling yourself. But it's probably the hardest skill to learn because lots of very good players play better ones because their ego gets in the way.

#3 will vary venue to venue and country to country, so you should ask the floorman wherever you're playing live. But trying to talk someone into giving you information is a highly overrated skill.

#4 I agree with sixfour, but if you do play then you should find one with as low a qualifier as possible because it's hit more often and if you're there all day every day, you reach your expectation whilst most players don't. Particularly if you are tighter than the average.

Hi there, first post in this forum. This thread looks like the place for this...

I like many others play 1/2 llsnl. My question is what to do about the massive wide limp and limp calling ranges at these tables? I feel like I can either limp along in which case I need a FH to safely showdown and raising pre becomes pointless as everyone calls anyway.

Ex hand: Hero dealt JJ in SB after folding everything for over an hour, several limpers, hero makes it 10BB! (only way to thin the field at all), V an old nit calls in BB, all else fold.

Flop (45$) K T 6

hero bets 25$, old man repops to 100$, hero folds...

hero then has to fold for another hour before he'll see a face card again.

I dont get how people do this, how do you have the mental stamina? You can really only play premium cards especially when stacks are like 50-150bbs right? Whats the correct strat here? Wait for AA and try to double up?

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If everyone is limping and calling, then making it 10bb in the SB isn't a good idea. You're guaranteeing that you play a multiway pot out of position against many players.

Given that BB is an old nit, you should just check the flop because his range is probably ahead of your hand on that board. The best we can hope for is AQ, or I guess 99.

You don't need a full house to win at showdown. You don't even need to get to showdown to win. But you do need to get good at value betting your hands and knowing which kinds of boards you can win pots uncontested on.

Right. But I guess my question is this:

If I just sat down at 1/2 and only have 200$ max buy in and its a super limpy calling table how would I play the following hole cards:

AJs from EP and BTN

JJ from EP and BTN

AA from EP and BTN

T9s from EP and BTN

knowing the following:

1. 5$ gets 8 calls

2. 10 gets 5 calls

3. 15 gets 3 calls

4. 20 gets 2 calls

5. 25$ gets 1 call

These are specific examples of what I feel like Im narrowing in on and that is that at these tables the low sprs combined with the loose table dynamic makes EP opening ranges have to be top ~4% while LP range has to be like top 12% simply because any flop you c-bet has you pot committed.

Ex. You play AJs, raise from BTN to 10$ and get 5 callers,

flop comes J 8 2r, dry as it gets

a) checks to you and you bet 50 into 60 and get one call,

Turn 4 offsuit, checks to you, are we shoving our 140$ into 160$ here?

b) first to act donks 20$ and all else fold, are we calling? folding? raising?

Thanks in advance if you read this far.

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If you get your chips in while your hand is ahead against their range, you will make money. That is meant to be your aim. It's irrelevant if any cbet will pot commit you, if you put that cbet in while you're ahead then you will make money.

Stupid question:

I hear the term "mistake" a ton...But what defines a mistake in poker exactly? Can I have some cut and dry examples?

Folding aces preflop in a 100bb cash game that you're comfortably rolled for.

Making a play which yields less EV than another play against your opponent's strategy.

theres also butchering hands against 99% of available strategies, like openjamming AA utg on a relative standard table

Valid answer. But would you consider it a mistake to fold in a spot where the standard play and odds tell you to call, but you just know you will most likely lose? Like middle pair against a guy your mostly sure has top pair, but value bets so cheap giving you insane pot odds.

I hear guys all the time say, "oh I have to call here".

Depends. We can't really say without knowing his entire strategy. If calling is the most +EV option, it's not a mistake. If it's not, it is.

This doesn't really make any sense. "Standard plays" are a baseline or fallback position for when you don't have any reads. Why would you care about the standard play (except on a meta-level, ie; if not making the standard play is a tell) when you have a read?

Once you have a read then it's a matter of A) How reliable a read B) What the math (pot odds, implied odds) says about the range you're putting villain on and C) How you expect villain to act based on all this information. If villain bets $1 into a $20 pot he basically has to accidentally flip his cards over for you to fold anything with any showdown value.

Let me elaborate on that a little bit.

In poker, every action you take should be the most profitable action based on your reads.

"Reads" is a combination of several factors:
- The range you put villain on
- Your expectation of villain's future actions
- Meta or other consideration which may inform the previous (your table image, the mood of the table, etc)
- Any useful information

"Standard plays" are plays used when you don't have reads so you're playing against a "standard range" against a "standard player". Or villain is an archetypal player against whom a standard set of plays is highly effective (ie; trapping a maniac or valuetowning a calling station)

The more information (reads) you have the more should should be able to tailor your play to be more effective against that specific player and the less likely you should be to need to rely on standard plays.

Standard plays are very important. You will often be in situations where you don't have a lot of information beyond what's presented in the current hand. Or playing against players who are very predictably exploitable. However, that's essentially "elementary school" level of poker. You need to develop the ability to adjust and change your play to better suit changing situations and additional information. You need to be able to decide when to start varying away from standard plays and how to use this additional information more effectively.

If you know you're beat then fold. But also be aware of how reliable that knowledge actually is and whether it's reliable enough to actually use it as the basis of a decision.

Might GTO be generally recognized as a LAG strategy?

Any articles/discussions it?

i dont think it can be proven but most poker variants probably have more then one NE

So it could be seen as LAG, or maybe as HyperTag, depends which end of the spectrum you choose.