If you're playing 2/4 then the bets and raises on the turn and river must be in increments of $4, not $6. That is unless it's a 2/4 with a half kill, which would make the turn and river bets $6.

I'd just keep on min raising until I thought I was beat. Then I'd call.

I agree with the bolded. However, I'm even less likely to fold it to a reasonable bet than to raise it.

I've never seen a Pit Boss step in and change the betting structure mid-hand. It would affect the outcome often enough I am sure his hands are tied. (eg. Boss steps in and says you can go NL through the end of this hand....making one of the clowns wake up and smell the coffee.)

I actually had one hovering over the table as villain and I continue to shovel our pile in for what seemed like 2 minutes non-stop. We beat each other into the pot on several occasions. I had quads over top boat. As you would imagine, it is a hand I will never forget.

didn't read replies but 18% is 4.5 -1 needed. you reach that figure by going 100 divided by 18 minus 1. so 20% is 100 divided by 20 =5 minus 1 = 4-1 needed. An actual flush draw on the turn is about 4.2-1 or 19% meaning you'll need your bet and 4.2 other bets of equal size just to break even long term

Gary,

My advice to you is to decide whether or not you are going to analyze hands by odds (usually expressed as [number of negetive outcomes] to [number of positive outcome]) or by equity ([number of positive outcomes]/[total outcomes]) Trying to switch back and forth can get you very confused

For example, in your initial post, you state that you have about 20% chance to win, which is 5 to 1. This is incorrect. 20% is 4 to 1.

It used to help me to think in terms of simple games, like flipping a coin. You have 1 to 1 odds of guessing right, and 50% equity. Doing this helped me keep my terms straight.

I far prefer to calculate things in terms of equity versus odds, as it allows you to combine equity from outcomes with different values (like folding) in your calculations.

So, in your example above, leaving the idea of implied odds out and assuming villain has a made hand and no draws that beat a flush, you have 4 flush cards. That means there are 9 flush cards left. Of the 52 cards in the deck, you know what 6 of them (your hole cards, and the 4 cards on the board) are, so there are 46 unknown cards, or 46 total possible outcomes.

From an equity standpoint, that means you have 9 positive outcomes out of 46 outcomes total, or or 19.6%

There needs to be a big enough pot for you to win that the cost of your turn call is less than 19.6% of the pot you will win. So, let's say there is 500 in the pot before the turn, and the turn bet is 150. If you call, the pot will be 800. 19.6% of 800 is 156. This is your equity expressed in terms of chips. Since your equity is greater than the cost of your call, this is a good call (+EV).

You can express the same thing in terms of odds. 19.6% is equivalent to 80.4 to 19.6 odds, or 4.1 to 1. Your bet is 150, you need to win 150*4.1 (in this calculation, you do not include your bet in what you will win), so you have to win 616 in chips. There is 650 in chips in there, so again, it would be a call.

Pick a method and get very comfortable with the terms (odds, outs, equity, EV, pot odds, etc)

if you were playing a 3/6 limit game live what do you think is a good amount
(stack) to start with.

Also whats the best way to brush up on head to head skills ?

^ good post. If there was a dollar in the pot and then someone bets all in for 30c then this is the breakeven point if you call. If you call less than 30c you're getting a bargain, if you call more than 30c you're getting ripped off

???

At least 12 big bets.

Is 3/6 the lowest limit this casino or card room offers?

Why are you asking about live limit and HU in the same post? Pick one to play and stick with it. Since you're asking questions in this forum, do not pick HU.

Huh WFT ? You're kidding right ? You can't get into a head to head situation in a limit game ?
Really ? Really ?

the table minimum, as there is an advantage to being able to go all in.

the best way to brush up on heads up skills is to play heads up and to think about playing heads up. observing a skilled player playing heads up would also be helpful.

Ending up playing against one other player at a full table isn't comparable to heads up.

Sure.

....except, there is a particular form of poker that is called HU. 1v1. The way you asked the questions, it appeared that you were asking two "almost" opposite things. Confusing.

Are you asking about online or live poker?

There are different dynamics to play 1v1 within a full ring game, a 6 Max game....and a HU match. What do you want to know?

PS: quit being a butthead.

I like to have 25 big bets to start, and then if I lose a few bets I can always top off.

----

While heads up situations at 3/6 are rare, knowing how to play them is still important. Rule 1 is never call a raise if no one else has called. Always 3 bet or fold. How often to 3 bet depends entirely on the open raiser's range. In limit holdem, you can typically 3 bet with as little as 45% equity vs your opponent's range because of the dead money created when the blinds fold. This effect is minimized in a small stakes game because the blinds will often call, so you might want your equity to be closer to 50%.

Here's a hand I played that I think is totally standard for both players:

4/8 live limit holdem

semi aggressive dude opens three spots off the button, I 3 bet 66 next in, folds to him and he calls. Heads up to the flop:

J82r

he checks, I bet, he calls.

9o

he checks, I check.

2o

he checks, I bet, he calls. I show my sixes up, he jabs my shoulder playfully and says "nice bet" and he shows AQo.

For you, nothing at all, in order to minimize your expected losses.
With respect, you've asked several questions that indicate you'd have trouble winning a playmoney hand. Forgive me for being so patronizing, but I think you'd be best served by lurking and reading a bit more before putting money on the table, as it seems you barely know the rules of the game.

Is there a tutorial software program that is a tutorial as you play program ?

Example shows your position at the table.
shows how many players are still in if guys before your raised etc etc etc
you called THE Program Says You Should Have made a pot size raise etc etc.

I was also hoping The Program is written by a world class player not just some guy saying this is what i would have done

Thanks
In
Advance

@Bob Thanks I was thinking about 25 to 40 the big bet (which is what you indicated) was a decent stack size to start a limit game.

If you could classify players into Horrendous, Poor, Fair, Good, Great, World Class
Currently I would put myself at a Fair to Good Skill Level

Gary,

Please stop writing, "limit" when you mean, "No Limit" or "NL" or "NLHE". Unless you're actually talking about limit this time. Which you hadn't heard of a couple days ago.

Additionally, "Big Bet" is a limit term, please do not use it if you are discussing "No Limit".

http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/32...great-1584199/

Thank you,

The Management

Gary,

why are you asking such basic questions here and not your cousin/friend. he is as you mentioned one of the top 100 players in NJ afterall. im sure he could help you out with the basics and set you up with strats to atleast crush the lowest levels.

i agree that this forum offers great free advice. but if i would know someone who is playing for a living (i assume he is since he is one of NJ top 100 players) then talking to him face to face would be much better to learn.
In addition, here on the boards we are all just strangers to you, but your cousin is someone you can trust (i hope) in what he is telling you

@crymeriver... I WAS talking about a limit game.

I think I indicated that the part of my game I need to improve the most is when I am one on one vs another player....what part of that didnt you get ?
Excuse me IF you took that to mean a game that was head to head AND ONLY head to head

From your previous threads I'd say the biggest thing you need to work on is understanding the betting structure of limit before worrying about things that rarely happen like ending up in a 2 way pot at 3/6.

Why did you need the term "Big Bet" explained to you 4 days ago in the thread I linked? Why did you confirm in that thread that you'd never even heard of "limit"? Why are you asking about playing 3/6 instead of 2/4?

Huh WFT ? You're kidding right ?

Really ? Really ?




-*The linked thread is awesome when combined with this one. I do have one question? Gary, where do you play 5/10 holdem? I don't care if it is limit or no-limit. I just want to know where.

really really

Could've fooled me. We get some new blood around here and you guys just seem to wanna give him a hard time.