Let's Talk Watches
10-21-2013
, 05:02 PM
Go for the new Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra > 15,000 gauss that just went on sale, I believe for about $6,600. Gives you a unique anti-magnetic movement.
10-21-2013
, 06:57 PM
Quote:
I would seriously consider something like this
http://www.jomashop.com/frederique-m...-710mc4h6.html
or for a bit more
this
http://www.jomashop.com/frederique-c...h-705s4s6.html
Frederique Constant is presenting some serious value right now with their manufacturer movement line. Make sure you stick to the in house movement ones though.
10-21-2013
, 07:22 PM
A discussion of "affordable" watch brands with in house mechanical movements.
I will define affordable as between $2000 and $5000 through an AD.
I will post 1 brand per post and talk about what I like and what I don't like about that particular brand.
1. Dornbluth and Sons
Dornbluth is a small time watch manufacturer that uses in house movements. The movement layout/gearing is almost identical to a Unitas/ETA 6498, however there are some striking differences. The 2 mainplates have been replaced by a very Germanic 3/4 plate. There is significant decoration on the regulator arm as well as the mainplate itself. THere are numerous countersinks, chatons, heated blue screws. There is very nicely done engraved text and I believe you can get your own text engraved on the movement if you buy one of the higher end models. Also, on the higher end models, there are pins in the balance wheel, signifying a level of hand regulation not found on watches under $10,000. (The pins are put in to the balance wheel to even out the weight of the balance wheel).
vs a nicely decorated 6498 in a Stowa
What I like : its a beautifully finished movement with a level of finishing usually reserved for more expensive watches. The engraving and decorations are all hand done which is
unheard of at this price point.
What I don't like : To the unitiated, the front looks like a $60 Parnis. Its based off a pocket watch movement so the size and thickness is a bit bulky. Also, it could possibly be fairly noisy as pocket watch movements tend to be. Prices have also crept up recently. As early as a year ago, everything was about $1000 less.
I will define affordable as between $2000 and $5000 through an AD.
I will post 1 brand per post and talk about what I like and what I don't like about that particular brand.
1. Dornbluth and Sons
Dornbluth is a small time watch manufacturer that uses in house movements. The movement layout/gearing is almost identical to a Unitas/ETA 6498, however there are some striking differences. The 2 mainplates have been replaced by a very Germanic 3/4 plate. There is significant decoration on the regulator arm as well as the mainplate itself. THere are numerous countersinks, chatons, heated blue screws. There is very nicely done engraved text and I believe you can get your own text engraved on the movement if you buy one of the higher end models. Also, on the higher end models, there are pins in the balance wheel, signifying a level of hand regulation not found on watches under $10,000. (The pins are put in to the balance wheel to even out the weight of the balance wheel).
vs a nicely decorated 6498 in a Stowa
What I like : its a beautifully finished movement with a level of finishing usually reserved for more expensive watches. The engraving and decorations are all hand done which is
unheard of at this price point.
What I don't like : To the unitiated, the front looks like a $60 Parnis. Its based off a pocket watch movement so the size and thickness is a bit bulky. Also, it could possibly be fairly noisy as pocket watch movements tend to be. Prices have also crept up recently. As early as a year ago, everything was about $1000 less.
10-21-2013
, 07:38 PM
Frederique Constant
Recently Frederique Constant have been producing watches with in house movements. You will have to do your homework and make sure you don't buy one of their ETA based watches instead but typically price will be a fairly accurate indicator.
What I like : Thats a pretty movement for a watch that costs less than $3000. The shape of the skeletonized rotor.The placement of the well in the movement to accomodate the rotor. The perlage on the baseplate.The circular stripes on the main plate.
Dial side detail is great too. Mix of Guilloche and sunburst pattern. Applied hour indices instead of painted.
The slimline moonphase is also a real beaut. Great hand lengths and also applied indices.
What I don't like : the slimline moonphase is too derivative of the JLC master moon 39.
There are some uncohesive elements on the non moonphase dials. Its still early in the movements lifespan so reliability and robustness is still unknown.
Recently Frederique Constant have been producing watches with in house movements. You will have to do your homework and make sure you don't buy one of their ETA based watches instead but typically price will be a fairly accurate indicator.
What I like : Thats a pretty movement for a watch that costs less than $3000. The shape of the skeletonized rotor.The placement of the well in the movement to accomodate the rotor. The perlage on the baseplate.The circular stripes on the main plate.
Dial side detail is great too. Mix of Guilloche and sunburst pattern. Applied hour indices instead of painted.
The slimline moonphase is also a real beaut. Great hand lengths and also applied indices.
What I don't like : the slimline moonphase is too derivative of the JLC master moon 39.
There are some uncohesive elements on the non moonphase dials. Its still early in the movements lifespan so reliability and robustness is still unknown.
10-21-2013
, 08:01 PM
Nomos
Longtime manufacturer based in Glashutte Germany. Wide selection of movements both handwound and automatic. The Bauhaus case and dial design are distinctive and attractive.
What I like : THe Bauhaus aesthetics. The movement decorations. The price on some of the lower end handwound models are really affordable.
What I don't like : The size is a bit small on the lower end models though it is all dial so its mitigated a bit. The handwound movements are derivative of the peseux/ETA 7001.
The automatics are about 2x in price compared to the handwound.
Longtime manufacturer based in Glashutte Germany. Wide selection of movements both handwound and automatic. The Bauhaus case and dial design are distinctive and attractive.
What I like : THe Bauhaus aesthetics. The movement decorations. The price on some of the lower end handwound models are really affordable.
What I don't like : The size is a bit small on the lower end models though it is all dial so its mitigated a bit. The handwound movements are derivative of the peseux/ETA 7001.
The automatics are about 2x in price compared to the handwound.
10-21-2013
, 10:02 PM
how about a little of this..
the tourneau by me has this certified pre-owned for 5.4k
the tourneau by me has this certified pre-owned for 5.4k
10-21-2013
, 11:44 PM
10-22-2013
, 05:49 PM
10-23-2013
, 06:21 PM
