QJ9xxx KTxx — KQT, maybe? OK, I agree it's hard to construct a hand that would splinter but wouldn't know.

Basic hand, yet I was stumped:

R/W, IMPs

J532
AQ
KT93
852

P P 1S 2H
P ???

seems like a standard 3H good spade raise

Might want to read that again -- LHO opened 1S in third seat, partner overcalled 2H, to you

lol 2NT seems right then.

If partner pulls to 3H he won't hate my hand.

i'd try 3H

I'm more worried about what happens if partner doesn't run from 2NT; one sort-of-stopper doesn't seem like it's going to get it done.

That's what I ended up doing. If partner wants to try 3NT on the way that's great. If not, well hopefully he's the one short in spades.

I also considered a craven pass as a reasonable option.

(As it happened, random BBO partner had something that didn't really resemble a 2H overcall, so 3H went down 2, but that's not my problem.)

me too, and I'd worry more about missing game than going down.

I kind of like 3H, but just make sure to stick one of your diamonds in with your hearts when you lay the dummy down

You have AQ; partner is quite likely to have 6.

Either six, or some considerable extra values in the side suits.

It may be that 2NT is the way to force partner to tell you whether he has the sixth heart or the extra side values. (No, I don't think 2NT is obviously better than 3H... I'd call it the lesser evil, by a small margin, vulnerable only. NV I would pass.)

What's wrong with 2S?

3H is more likely to indicate more H and maybe more shape / fewer HCP. 2NT overemphasizes the S "stopper" (if we even have one).

I'm in the 3H park as well

I think I prefer 2N. Its true our spade stopper is tenous but we have full value for our bid at least. I would also plan on making a game try over 3D. Would anyone make a game try over 3C?


Also, I have a review question on count signals. Playing UDCA how does one normally show count after winning the first trick in a suit (and you decide to continue the suit). (also for the purpose of this question ignoring situations where it is more important to play back a specific card than give the correct count)

For example

1. A42
2. K865
3. Q9863

Mostly, I'm unsure whether returning 2nd or 3rd from a trebleton is more common, but wanted to review everything for consistency.

Lead back original 4th best. If you started w 3, lead the high spot back at t2.

Also I have a 10 count with 2 honors in partner's suit. The only game try I'm making if partner bids again is 4H.

silly spot from a rubber in a home game, red/red

1c - p - 1s - ?

AQ9x
AQx
AJx
A9x

That is an easy dbl. You have only 3-card support for the unbid suits but you have compensation in other areas.

1NT or 2NT in this spot is not natural.

1NT is natural for many people here. Obviously this hand is too strong

Opponents have claimed the rest of the deck... Partner doesn't have much of anything here. I pass and hope to defend either 2S or 1NT.

1NT is natural for me, and is the way to get to 2H opposite partner's yarborough. Yes, we're too strong; it should be played as 16–18+ or 19, if you play it this way.

At matchpoints I would probably bid 1NT against an obviously conservative pair. But at rubber bridge all red, pass is best. I expect to defend 1NT, and the opening lead will sometimes be worth the trick I would have needed if declaring.

You guys are the reason good players respond with 0 opposite an opener

Haha, my thoughts exactly.

Certainly white I would respond with 0; I hesitate a little more getting in there with 0 red/red at imps, but I'm still going to especially if I have clubs.

I'm doubling with this hand.

Trust your partner, not your opponents.

I do.... my partner passed over 1C. Meaning he doesn't have a biddable suit at the 1 level. I.E <6HCP and no 5 card suit. So why am I wanting to make him declare again? I see 4 tricks on offense here (I'm likely not ever getting to take a finesse)

Sometimes you just want to defend.