Any good like that post for 6max out in the worldwideweb? I'm just playin 6-max but i'm very impressed of your articel for fullring. If there's something out there would be nice if you post a link or something.

seriously.
follow-up:
i'm on my 2nd month of Silver Star now.
Since full-ring O/8 is incredibly slow, i now actually 2-table it sometimes.
the only game i do this in regularly.
Lots less swongier than badugi, except @ 2/4 and 5/10.
Still prefer badugi for mtt's... but i've only done 3-4 limit O/8 mtt's, whereas I've taken down 4 ea. 2.20 badugi mtt's for 1st.
And my roll's up almost 1k since i started this thread.

Again, glad to have written it, I sometimes refer to it myself when I feel a bit rusty. So many beginners come here asking for starting hand selection, I'm pretty sure this would be a good sticky or at least have a link to it in a sticky.

Dear Mr. Varenius

I worked all night to set up a text file that I have baptised as LuciusVarenius.txt., that will serve me as a tool to assess my play so far using your scheme as a main reference frame.

I notice that when you are writing about being in late position you are in plain joy , I really like that feeling and the good humour that goes with it. I can see that you enjoyed writing that particular part.

However, in the last paragraph quoted above you say: Even QQ46 is worth a steal. You mean any high pair and two NON-PAIRED low below 6 is worth a steal? This is what I have interpreted, but I just want to be sure to finish my job.

Heil, Dear Lucius, and thanks again.

Yeah. I would say the lower the pair the more you need a better low combination to go with it. QQ46 vs the BB has a shot at both high and low and will do well headsup. However you have to pay attention to who you're against.

To play low draws that are not (A2xx, A3xx, A4xx, 23xx, 234x), you're going to probably want to see at least a combo of A-3-x, A-2-x or 2-3-x, or even A-2-3 on the flop as part of your low/draw. Of course the downside to the Ace flopping is its not so likely your high pair is good any more.

If the blinds are loose, you could well have a good shot at half the pot at least. The downside is your steal is more likely to face resistance and that is something you'd rather avoid with that kind of hand, save if you hit your set of course. But you can be aggressive with loose players against you, because your hand rates to be above average against their range. Just remember though that even loose players can wake up with a good hand.

If the blinds are tight, your steal is more likely to take the blinds down preflop, but then again if you get called, you're likely in some pretty bad shape and you're going to need a good deal of help to get at least half. So you have to play carefully postflop if called by tight blind players.

In both situations, you don't want to get called, that is the essence of a steal after all - its more or less a bluff.

What kind of VP$IP % should we be looking at?

I think that to beat small stakes games you can get away with playing tighter than you should, eg 10%-19% range, but once you start playing for decent money you have to play a little looser because people are going to pay more attention to how tight you play and the cards you show down, so you have to make image plays, like reraising the opening CO when you're OTB with 345Ks and do things that may not seem optimal (but actually are).

That specific play with the 345Ks is not actually that bad when you consider that there's probably another 3 aces and 3 deuces left in the deck at worst, or you could even have a better drawing hand (the CO was on a steal or has four high cards). I mention that hand in particular because that situation recently happened, where I figured my aces and deuces are live, and I flopped a wheel when it came A23 and got significant action from the CO (the blinds folded which is what you want) who had aces and deuces with a 7432A low and did not believe I had a wheel because up til then I had played tight and only showed down A2 type hands. He actually checkraised me on the flop, and I called him down because the flush draw was there, and then raised the river when no pair,4, 5, or flush came, and he paid off. Now the whole table thinks that if I reraise I dont necessarily have a good hand preflop AND they're wondering "hey maybe if this guy can flop the joint with that junk I can too".

If your opponents are showing adjustments to you playing like a bigger rock than Mount Everest, you should be playing 20-30% of pots. It depends on your preferred style. Don't do what you're uncomfortable with, if its making you lose. I play around 25% of my hands, when really given the players I play against, I could easily get away with playing less. But there are far too many hands which I think are far too pretty to be thrown away, and in the end I show a profit on a lot of them anyway.

3betting a CO with 345Ks is pretty bad and almost never correct. Also if we were to incorrectly assume that "there's probably another 3 aces and 3 deuces left in the deck at worst" then in a 10 handed game there would be 20 unknown cards behind you and out of those 20 8 would be in the hands of the blinds, 5 would create the board and 7 would be left in the deck. The 5 board cards are the only group of cards where those aces and duces are even remotely favorable to your hand. 8>7>5.

I disagree

Yes, this is amazing!
Thank you