does the light bleed ever bother you? that has been my only concern

looks really good

I work out of my house and meet with clients there so I have the door to hide the kitchen when clients are walking down the hall. If someone peers along the wall they can see a couple of inches into the kitchen and see the edge of the stove or the fridge, which is no big deal.

My problem was the opening is 36" and the largest door I could find was 36". Ideally it would be 4"-6" wider than the opening, but I would have needed a custom door which would have more than doubled the cost. I think it'd be fine on a master bath but wouldn't want it for a bathroom where absolute privacy was an issue. Obviously a pocket door would give more privacy, but then you have to open the walls and spend way more.

This looks really nice!

Mine however has a larger opening, thus I want to get a double barn door. Some concerns I had however, were that the doors wouldn't stay in place once its closed. Also, if I were to install a double barn door, is there any way I can make those two doors work in conjunction so even if I just pull one door, both doors open?

My door stays in place no problem and as long as it's plumb it won't move on it's own. You could install a converging pulley system so that if you open/close one door the other opens/closes in tandem. Saw a home improvement show where the homeowner was an elevator repair guy and did this.

Can't find an example of it with a barn door, but here it is for a pocket door.



Probably pretty simple if you can find good instructions. Kinda some instructions here.

that a good idea. I think I found a general contractor who's willing to do the work for $150-200. Since I'm not really savvy in this area, I think I am going to pay for the work to be done.

The GC mentioned that it's best to install on a hardwood floor vs a carpeted floor. Is this true? If so, it will be a problem for me.

Didn't realize that you are a male escort… not that there's anything wrong with that.

Door install looks good.

I'm thinking that it would have been relatively easy to and a 2x2 (or some such size matching the thickness of the door) to each side of the door to gain the additional desired width. Pretty sure you could easily get some wood that would match the species (kinda looks like Spruce) used for the door and that you could have it planed down to size for not too much of a charge. To avoid having to plane or sand the add-on you could simply have a saw cut reveal added to the new pieces prior to gluing and clamping them to the barn door.

I don't know if you completely understand the description, given that you are a male escort and all, but this is something that you could easily do or have done at any time in the future.

Have my parents in town this weekend to help with the house and we got a ton of crap done. Painted a bedroom, painted a desk and file cabinet for the office, replaced a crappy bathroom vanity light with 3 LED recessed lights, installed a new faucet in a bathroom, and changed out every switch/outlet/cover plate in the house from nasty beige to white. Also installed two dimmer switches. I am ****ing tired.

The TV issue was a joke. What isn't a joke is the water I have coming from the ceiling at the fireplace. I called the roofer 26 minutes ago and he was going to have a guy call me but nothing so far.

Hadn't heard anything so I called back at the hour mark and had to leave a message. I am calling again at the two hour mark and if nothing, I am calling every thirty minutes.

Can't find the paperwork on the roof at the moment, but from a common sense standpoint, are they responsible for fixing the ceiling damage and any wet insulation?

99, thanks. Despite my career choice, I am smart enough to think of gluing something on the sides to make it wider. However, it hadn't occurred to me that just because I have no way of making a piece of wood exactly 1 5/32" wide doesn't mean that other people couldn't do for me. I have a friend who's a furniture builder and has a planer in his shop, and he's pretty skilled so I bet he might be able to figure out a way to produce a couple of pieces of 84" x 3 x 1 5/32" of knotty pine. Next time he's over I'll have him take a look and tell me if he thinks gluing on a couple of pieces would look okay.

Triple, not sure what the issue with a barn door on carpet is except that the carpet might prevent the door from sliding smoothly. I'd think you just need to make sure it's hung high enough so it doesn't rub against the carpet--there's about a 5/8" gap between my door and the hardwood--but your contractor obviously knows more than I do.

How old's your roof? Is who responsible for paying for damages?

The roof is new, but it wasn't the roof. The roofing guy showed me photographic proof that our chimney is the culprit.

I can't find the home inspection printout and don't have access to the email today so our agent is checking to see what was said.

Off to google chimney repair costs.

Did some googling and worst case scenario costs had me wincing.

I'll be calling chimney guys on Tuesday.

Cool story bro. Thanks for sharing. Some people have no clue/common sense

what is the photographic proof it is the chimney? and also, when was this photographic proof produced? did the roof guy have the snapshot handy 'just in-case' they never decided to share with you or did they come out today?

Thats a nice looking door gregorio, interested to see if the idea coined by 99 is going to work out for you. Is it touching the baseboard ? Does it not wobble ?

There is a guide screwed into the floor that sits in a groove in the bottom of the door that keeps it from wobbling or rubbing up against the baseboard. There are spacers between the mounting board and the track that move the door out a bit from the wall.



Seems to work fine on this carpet

Someone came out today and he took photos with his phone.

He has no real reason to lie. Yes, he didn't have to do the roof, but if it isn't the chimney a chimney company will know that and expose a lie.

With a thicker carpet, you just need to shorten the door. We had thin carpet replaced by thicker carpet in two of the rooms and they couldn't put guides down for the closet doors. The third room had new carpet the same type as the old and they were able to put a guide down.

Seems more likely that the roof flashing around the chimney is failing and allowing water in under the shingles next to the chimney than it would be to have water penetrate a solid mortar chimney.

Is there water in the fireplace?

The fireplace has a wood stove insert and I could hear water striking metal. That sound is actually what clued me into the water leak. This being my first home and my first fireplace, I immediately thought it was the roof causing the problem.

What could the roofer hope to gain by lying? The savings in not having to repair the roof would be outweighed by the negative publicity. And I got their name from my agent who is also my friend. If they screw me over, she has the ability to publicize it even more.

Makes sense. Maybe it's the chimney after all.

I don't trust contractors especially roof contractors. These guys are basically transients.

Got my brother to do another drone shot.

Welp, I am back.

I posted earlier ITT (12-15 days ago) a few times asking for advice on selling my house.

Cliffs from earlier posts: My agent wanted me to list at $175k while telling me all the homes around this price range went fast. Since me and my brother (who I own it with/live with) aren't in a hurry we decided to list $12+k above there recommendation and see if we got some bites. Well we listed it on a Monday and by Thursday we had 2 offers (7.5k & 10k below asking) and 12 showings (2 of which were 2nd showings).

The offer that was 7.5k below asking said they are low-balling because our roof needs to be replaced (which is true that it will need to be replaced in the next 2-3 yrs- we've had leaking but had it patched 3 months ago) and the windows are old (true). Our agent said we should definitely accept it because we listed too high and this buyer knows we already had another offer so this is his best offer. I ignore the advice of my agent and counter w/ a number a couple thousand below are asking and they accept.

Fast forward to last night (12 days after we had a signed contract), which is the last night for him to counter after the inspection or accept as is, and he asks to be let out of the contract because the furnace is old. Which I was like "yeah the furnace is old, but so is the rest of the house. Why would you think it was new/ we have never had a problem with it.".

Our agent has said there is nothing we can do and we don't get a nickel of their "good faith" $1000. I am F-ing steaming we don't get the guys 1k especially after my agent said that the other guy's agent said that he did the same thing to the last house.


Sorry for the TL;DR

So now were are back to where we were a week ago. However, we did cancel 8 showings that were scheduled after our counter offer was accepted. I asked my agent to personal call all of these buyers (or their agents) and let them know our buyer bailed and it isn't his first time.

He also said he'd call the person who made the first offer on our house that we rejected because our agent said he wouldn't come up more because that is the top of his buying range. I told our agent we probably shouldn't bother calling him, but he could if he wanted. So he called that guy’s agent and they wanted to schedule a showing tonight and I said our houses isn't ready and that I thought he said they were coming up much.

So my agent called back and said the agent called and said his client might be interested in submitting another offer for $2500 more (than his original) and I politely asked my agent to call him back and tell him not to waste his time. My agent again tried to talk me into selling and when I said no then he asked what I was waiting for... I said "why not re-list it for a week and reject every offer just to find out where we are". He obviously didn't like this and I feigned like I was serious but agreed with him after a few minutes that that isn't a good idea and that we'd consider all offers, but to still tell that agent that offering 182.5 is a waste of time.

Not your realtor's fault, not the buyer's fault.

You're being greedy, your realtor is tired of dealing with you, and everyone will ask for a new furnace if it's over 20 years old and has never been serviced. I had a 25 year old furnace that never gave me problems. Turned out my burners and heat exchanger we're toast beyond repair. And my "I never had a problem with it" excuse didn't work