Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Tall
I seldom eat steaks at restaurants. I grew up on game meat so the utility cuts served at most steak houses are just disappointing. If I'm buying a steak to cook and eat the same day It'll be a gnarly piece with a bunch of flavor. The working muscles cut from inside the body cavity are by far the best for immediate cooking. Give me a hanger steak (
onglet if you prefer) or skirt steak and I'm happy. Failing that, I'll use a flat-iron steak in a pinch. If I have time to age something, I'll get 3-4" ribeyes or strip steaks, rub them with a spice/salt rub,* let them mature for a month or so in the icebox and grill them. Actually, I'll wait until my pal Tim invites us over and let him grill them.
If I'm going to bother eating red meat at a restaurant, it's going to be a special thing. Peter Luger's in NY, Carnevino in Vegas or Kobe beef in Japan. I'm just not interested in eating some factory-farmed wet rag at Chop 'n Suds.
*here's a great rub: equal parts finely ground espresso, black pepper and kosher salt, half that volume of sumac or allspice. You can substitute bitter cocoa for the coffee and ground chipotle or chile arbol for the sumac. Rub all over the meat, especially the fat cap. Let the meat age in the refrigerator in a manner that lets air circulate around it. I make a little rick out of chopsticks or skewers to elevate the meat off the bottom of a flat pan, line the bottom of the pan with salt or paper towels to absorb any liquid, and rotate the meat every couple of days. The meat will lose about a quarter of its volume and develop a whole palette of intriguing flavors. Your refrigerator will also stink like a corpse.
When you are ready to cook the steaks, trim any moldy or leathery corners, but otherwise just plop them on a grill over hot fire. You can sear them in a hot pan with olive oil and finish them in the oven, but be careful because the require much less cooking time than wet un-aged steaks. On a grill you can look at them and poke them and it's easier.