this thread induces degen

Saved imo...

^ Good save.

I might try this out, moving up to the 60s turbos sounds like a challenge.

I'm gonna try this at hypers.

100 buyins at 15s and then move up using the 20 buyins until 100s

When BR hits 3k do it for 30s

Wow, I just found this thread, and realised I hadn't played a hand in over 3 years.

While you're around: thanks! This thread helped me a ton at being less of a nit and moving up faster.

Let me get it OP , you got to play the 5k games , then you lost/withdraw them all and you are left just with 15$ ? Cuz it does not make sence.

5 year bump for newbloods (well, okay 4 year, 362 day bump)

The Sleeper Must Awaken.

This.
the name... tl;dr 1st post, but I think it can work...
Nothing can fail with such an awesome name

6 year bump for the newbloods


Without new experiences, something inside us sleeps.

Love it.

I've always wanted to know the best ways to pay yourself while moving up in stakes.

The only thing i remember hearing a few years ago is just paying one self based on # of games played and your avg ROI.


Has there been any new BRM theory in last years?
I use to use Kelly criterion website when it was still active.

I'm planing to do something like this at Hyper Turbo SNG's.

I need 50 BI for the limit I play at.
If I fall to 35 BI I move down.
If I got 40 BI for the next limit I move up and take a 5 BI shot.
If I fall to 35 BI I move back down and grind until I got 40 BI for the next limit again.

This is how I will play:

⬆40*$60 = $2 400 = 80 BI at $30
�50*$30 = $1 500
⬇35*$30 = $1 050 = 70 BI at $15

⬆40*$30 = $1 200 = 80 BI at $15
�50*$15 = $750
⬇35*$15 = $525 = 75 BI at $7

⬆40*$15 = $600 = 85 BI at $7
�50*$7 = $350
⬇35*$7 = $245 = 70 BI at $3.5

⬆40*$7 = $280
�50*$3.5 = $175
⬇35*$3.50 = $122

Mental game
I know that 5 BI is to little to give it a real try. But at the same time. It will be much easier to grind back the money at the lower limit.

This bankroll plan will make me move up and down in limits like all the time. But I think that the plan also will help my mental game. I don't need to care that much about the money.

What is your thoughts about this?

I've rebuilt a few rolls this way from low low $s like $10-50 to get upto $250 (I move back over to STTs at $150-250ishg) and it definitely works.

I'd say a few things tho. Your chance of busto is def greater than 0% using this method. Also prepare mentally to get dropped down a few times and feel like you wasted the last week of your life playing against $2 breather morons. You will def learn to extract some value from fishies if u dowin right. Standard 3x or limp da button vs unknowns alllllll dayyyyyy. GL all.

It will still take incredibly long. When you use agressive bankroll management, you shouldn't look at the difference in BI between moving up and moving down, but more so at the amount of BI that's "dead weight" in all this.

For example this would be a lot more efficient if you'd take the same approach but use 15 - 20 - 30 instead of 35 - 40 - 50. Obviously this will increase the ROR since once you're on a downswing you're really coming down hard.

I believe that's why diebitter suggested the retooling, sort of as a failsafe for once you hit a certain amount and don't want to go through the agony of falling below that and having to grind it all back.

Obviously only works if you're a proven winner at all those stakes and just don't want to spend too much time grinding it back out to the level you're used to playing.

Id like to see someone try moving up to a new stake 30s+ with only 50 bis lol

7 year bump.


Fear is the mind-killer.

bumping a little gift I left on this forum on Christmas Eve, 8 years ago.

Merry Christmas, one and all!

I guess this is kind of cool, because the idea of moving up quickly is fun, but if you are going to take this seriously then this is a poor way to play and can hinder you in many ways. I know a lot of people in the thread are happy about this, but we need to take a look at the negative side.

1) It can make you focus too much on the money and less on playing correctly.
2) You may end up moving up too quickly due to variance and be severely outmatched guaranteeing you lose it.

Just find a fixed number and once you reach it you are able to play X limit. Often times I think it is better to not closely observe your money. Just tell yourself that you are going to play 100 games to the best of your ability and see where you are at. The more you do mind games with yourself such as: "I just won 6 games and lost 5. If I lose 1 more then I'll break even and be slightly losing making all 12 games a waste". This kind of thing will drive you crazy. A conservative route will also keep you from losing your head. I think 100 buy-ins is actually reasonable and will keep you from tilting. I pretty much never tilt when I play HU matches. The lower the bankroll in comparison with the buy-ins the less you will care about the money and just play good.

If you get super lucky and advance really quickly you are just going to end up losing it all because you are going to be up against tough competition that will eat you alive. Progress at a decent rate gradually working your way up and acquiring skills.


Honestly, this just sounds like a Martingale system with a safety net. While the idea is fun I think it hurts you more than helps you.

Just started implementing this today after a long SNG hiatus.

0-25$ BR: 0,25$
25-30$ BR: 0,25$/0,50$
30-50$ BR: 0,50$
50-60$ BR: 0,50/1,00$
60-150$ BR: 1,00$
150-180$ BR: 1,00$/3,00$
180-350$ BR: 3,00$
350-420$ BR: 3,00/7,00$
420-750$ BR: 7,00$
750-900$ BR: 7,00$/15,00$
900$+ BR: 15,00$


Just making sure, that this is the correct way of doing it for Spin&Go's (3-handed, adjusted)?


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For me BRM is specific to each individual/player and it may change to each, personally i think every BTM depends of..

1. ROI/Winrates: The bigger your true roi/winrate the less buyins you will need and vicerversa, the smaller your roi/winrate the more buyins you will need.
2. Monthly Volume: The more volume you play on any given month (always prioritizing your A-Game over volume) the faster you will get out of downswings and you will also maximize your hourly. The less you play, the longer you will be sumerged on a down and therefore will need a bigger roll (to cover personal expenses during that time if you live off poker).
3. How prone/sensitive are you to tilt: If you´re a person that is very prone/sensitive to tilt during bad stretches and is currently having hard time dealing with those and/or cant control it (meaning you just dont care and keep loading tables) then you will also need a bigger bankroll.
4. How much time you devote to study/work on your game: The more time you devode to study and/or work on your game getting better and staying ahead of the curve the less buyins you will need. But, if you´re not a "do it by myself" type of guy and prefer coaching than breaking down spots/learning by yourself (i am one of those guys too) then you will need a bigger BR to cover coaching fees for X amount of time.
5. Personal/Family Monthly Budget: If poker is your sole source of income and need to regulary cashout money and depending on the answers to the points above then you will also have to sustain a much bigger BR so you ownt have to worry and/or feel stressed out about needing money and haing to cashout while on a downswing.

Depending on the answers to the questions above then you will have a much better idea of what BRM criteria fits your poker/individual profile best, cheers.

I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain.