I've come across alot of guys like this. The biggest thing is don't become impatient. If someone is 3 betting alot or shoving your limps then you could adjust by limping more but in general over the long term raising is optimal imo. Getting villain to fold his BB will net us more chips than limping and giving free flops. Make him pay to play or surrender.

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-don't get too carried away with limping at 10bb OTB and make sure you're balanced if you're going to get jammed on often. at 12BB+ you can start limping/mring more often
-it's alot different otb 3h compared to hu at 10bb. hu you only have to put in the small blind so at 10bb hu you should be limping most of your range or open shoving. min-raising is never a really good option at this stack depth.
-there shouldn't be much of an ev difference in mr/limping most hands HU and high limp strats can work very well; allows you to play a high vpip while remaining balanced. something you can not do with a high mr strategy

Def. Balanced. I limp hands that are strong enough to call a shove and play well postflop in case it checks through. 10bbs is the last effective stack size I mr - fold. I have employed limping more for sure lately in HU. I also noticed if I mr-fold a few then start limping , my mr will get more folds and my limps get more check throughs

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well heres my first video. no mic though

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3C3IQ7Y_jRc

when should we pass up on small edges? for example..

1. first hand, BTN folds, BB is unknown we open 3x in SB with A8s and BB ships (25 BBs Effective)

2. were HU at 20/40 OTB with 33, we open for a min. and villain ships
-we have 1000, villain has 500
-we have 1200, villain has 300
-we have 450, villain has 1050


what if example 1 is a 2x multi? how about a 6x?

what if example 2 is a 4x, 6x and 2x?

does that change your answers? I personally believe it should. what do you think?

Starting spins from a small roll on ACR can indeed be challenging because you only get 20% rakeback at $2s unless you can play something like 1000 games per week and cash in the Sit&Crush. It's also a very big step from $2 to $10, both in terms of buyin and skill level (from what I can tell).

Beating the games is definitely a good start and it looks like you're doing that and working hard. Good luck!



What I've done personally in $2s (I'm not a spin pro).

1. I min-raise and call. I might min/fold at higher multipliers, but probably not at 6x.

2. Open jamming all 3 cases. Same for pretty much all multipliers.

why only 20%? ive been getting 27% deposited every weds. yeah 1k games to make $50 at sitncrush is crazy talk. especially in a week.

beating the game in CEV is one thing, but everytime I register and see my balance under my initial deposit of $200 makes me bleh. I mean I understand its going to happen like that but its still not good for the mental game. especially since ive had like $40 in RB. although my WR (36.5) x number of games( 2300) x average prize pool (5.64) = 4734.38-4600 = 134.38 is what I should have above my initial 200 + RB.

as far as the small edges, I was just curious as to what others thought, I MR-called #1 and #2 I OS vs 2 and MR-call another. ( the MR-call was vs a 45% 3b and 17% call OS)

The 20% is because of what you pointed out in your first post -- rakeback is calculated on 4.5% rake instead of the actual 6% -- so your getting 20% back on the actual 6%. [for example, you calculated rakeback of $0.0243 per game. That's $0.0243 / $0.12 = 20.25%]

For spins in particular variance can get very nasty. Mental game is a must to work on because sooner or later you're going to need it. As an example, if your true expected win rate is 36.67 (50 ev chips per game), I would expect you to go busto about 15% of the time when playing 2000 $2 games with a $200 starting roll (and 20.25% rakeback).

Well I'll be damned. I can't believe I completely overlooked that. Good point.

I think it's far from my capabilities, that includes my first 500 games with 0 study, also 1k games multitabling unfocused and playing a autopilot style. Hopefully I will get that cev up in the 60s. I'm going to update some new goals, ones that won't stress me mentally like a set number of games per week, or studying everyday etc. Any suggestions on how I should go about this? I'm going to record every session and 2 table max.

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Why do you want to record every session?

recording every session allows me to go back and see my thought process throughout the session. I mean I'm no pro, I get tilted, I make bad decisions,plays etc. by recording the sessions and going back through them I could possibly find reasons why and prevent them in the future. something I cant do by just looking at a hand through a replayer.

Interesting approach :P I would instantly get bored if I was watching myself play though

yeah, I'm sure I will. lol but if I wait long enough, say a week or so it shouldn't be too bad.

https://youtu.be/iAg342vXUmY

My First video with audio. Found a old car microphone from a stereo I had. it was a Bluetooth mic for the car so I apologize about the background noise. let me know what you think about my play, thought process, etc. always looking to improve.

two spots I def. want some 2 cents on:

the bluff spot on KJJss. was my thought process correct there?

the A3o vs. SB open-shove its near the end in a 6x. you will know when you see it.

weekly update:

264 games. lower volume week but I was 2 tabling the entire week.






some new goals,

- 60EVchips/game or as close to it as possible at the end of the week.
- 250 games per week min. ( i didn't play a ton of hours this week so this is a baseline)
- post min 1 hand in the forums from each session.

well this is encouraging. been having a tough time mentally with these games but this makes me feel much better. also helps relieve some of the mental pressures your faced with when your account balance doesn't reflect your true EV.

my question is how do we read the graph and find out where I am percentage wise? I mean if I'm running in the 10% or 90% etc?

If I understand your question, look on the right hand side of the visualizer graph and see where your actual winnings fall. For example, if you're break-even on that number of games with that win rate, that would be about 20%, meaning there's about a 20% chance of it happening. Keep in mind this assumes the win rate used is your true long-term expected win rate. If your true win rate is higher, the same actual result (break even) would be more rare.

If that had nothing to do with your question, just ask again please.

I'll have to look at my actual winnings. I'm down $17 from my original $200 deposit. So I've lost $17 plus my rakeback. My account balance as of today (without this week's rakeback) is $183.xx

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Yeah, so that's looks like about 20% chance of happening. (I should have said actual winnings plus rakeback.)

So what are the numbers next to the percentages?

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Buyins actually won (including rakeback) or $ won if you have "$ Winnings" selected on the setting tab.

well since I cashed out before starting the thread, I went back and re-calculated from the day I showed on here. when I deposited the $200.
2300 games, RB-$55.89
account balance is $185.71
so total = -$70.18

so according to that, I had a 2.5% chance of being where I am? or is there a 2.5% chance that my next 2500 games will result in the same? or both? lol I'm just trying to understand how this works as I do understand how it is useful in situations like this. where its a chipEV game and your $$ wont always reflect your skillset.

Yes, both (assuming that win rate). I think it's actually about 7.5% if you set rakeback to 20% and "Buyin $" to 2. Still a bad run. Run better! glgl!

Right! I'm trying! Hopefully will have some good news tomorrow for my weekly update. Man, if I actually ran not so horrible...whaattttttt then I could possibly live up to my title.

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