tbh, both a breakeven stretch where i lost 10% and a breakeven stretch where i lost 45% would be a bit of a mind**** for me.

well by definition losing isn't a break even stretch now is it

I honestly can't recall the last time I've seen the 2/5 game run here. I've heard rumors of it running when I'm not around, but I personally haven't seen it run in, I dunno, many many many months, maybe even upward of a year (because I've been making a note to scout it out for a while now).

I could probably (?) find one elsewhere but that would involve traffic and bridges and traffic and longer driving, meh.

Doesn't really matter though. I do mostly play for fun, and 1/3 NL is fun.

GhappyasaclamwhereIamG

Brag of the day

Yesterday i pulled off my biggest winning session ever. Played for 12 hours in a home game sess, and booked a 1300 BB win or 13 buyins up. It was an incredible feeling when the game broke up and i sat there with my massive stack. And one more positive thing is that this was my session number 8 in a row with a profit in each of em.

I owe a big thanks to 2+2 also for my results lately, my reading,thinking and development as a player has really gotten up in speed the last couple of months.

Well, very good I mistook the connotation of an earlier post I guess

Driving any more than the shortest distance to a poker game is rarely +EV.

I checked the Win rate thread, but no one has posted in it since 2007, if this post belongs somewhere else I apologize. Any insight as to how well my stats are compared to average and any insight would be appreciated.

These statistics range from March 2011 - Present. The main Casinos I played at are Venetian, Wynn, Bellagio, and WSOP cash games. I set my Excel file to 30 hands/hr.

Overall Statistics:
Net Win ($) $20,975
Win Rate ($/hr) $28.95
Hours Played 724
Hands Played 21,734
Net Win (BB) 2,733
Win Rate (BB/hr) 3.8
Win Rate (BB/100) 12.6
St. Dev. (BB per session) 48.8
Max Downswing ($) $3,581
Max Downswing (BB) 484
Average Session Length (hr) 2.8

$1/2 Stats:
Net Win ($) $2,205
Win Rate ($/hr) $16.69
Hours Played 132
Hands Played 3,965
Net Win (BB) 551
Win Rate (BB/hr) 4.2
Win Rate (BB/100) 13.9
St. Dev. (BB per session) 50.6
Max Downswing ($) $524
Max Downswing (BB) 131
Average Session Length (hr) 3.1

$1/3 Stats:
Net Win ($) $6,392
Win Rate ($/hr) $20.47
Hours Played 312
Hands Played 9,368
Net Win (BB) 1,065
Win Rate (BB/hr) 3.4
Win Rate (BB/100) 11.4
St. Dev. (BB per session) 47.6
Max Downswing ($) $1,700
Max Downswing (BB) 283
Average Session Length (hr) 2.8

$2/5 Stats:
Net Win ($) $9,956
Win Rate ($/hr) $37.94
Hours Played 262
Hands Played 7,873
Net Win (BB) 996
Win Rate (BB/hr) 3.8
Win Rate (BB/100) 12.6
St. Dev. (BB per session) 51.4
Max Downswing ($) $2,724
Max Downswing (BB) 272
Average Session Length (hr) 2.7

$5/10 Stats:
Net Win ($) $2,422
Win Rate ($/hr) $137.48
Hours Played 18
Hands Played 529
Net Win (BB) 121
Win Rate (BB/hr) 6.9
Win Rate (BB/100) 22.9
St. Dev. (BB per session) 31.0
Max Downswing ($) $1,304
Max Downswing (BB) 65
Average Session Length (hr) 1.8

Play higher

I make more money as a district manager at jack in the box

Solid hourly IMO

How is your overall bankroll? I would assume you're properly rolled for 2/5, given the time spent.

Your 5/10 is skewing your hourly, since it's 10% of your profit but only 2.5% of your table time. You have no meaningful sample there to justify including it in your overall. Be glad you booked a profit. Your other stats look ok, but show room for improvement. You can squeeze out another 1-2bb/hour, but it actually looks pretty solid as is.

Are you rolled for 5/10 already, or did you just sit a couple of juicy games?

100 hour break even stretch? Lol I just about spit out my redbull!

100 hour b/e is so common it shouldn't even be a question, it's only about 3000 hands - anyone that plays full time could tell you that they have experienced even longer b/e stretches. Yes, it is possible to get all in against some donk as a 10:1 favorite, and get sucked out on, over and over - say, 8-10 times in a short number of sessions - If it happens when you are deep, well, there you are with a long b/e stretch.

I'd post my march graph as an example, but it still makes me puke.

Play higher for real!!

Started playing 2/5 NL last Sunday (was always just 1/2 NL).

Anyway, after 3 sessions and about 12 hours, I'm averaging $85/hr. This should be sustainable, right?

: )

Top level 2-5 players make $40-50 and hour. So no. That's high level 5-10 live hourly.

Having a hard time posting my graph.
For live 1-2 and 1-3 buying in for $200 I've netted $35,000 over 1,700 hours.
$24 at my main 1-2 game for 650+ hours and $28 for my main 1-3 game 550+ hours.. Worst in random games.
Brings my average down to roughly $20 an hour.
My first hand in that 1,700 hours was my first hand of nlh cash ever. So maybe my winrate is slightly higher now.
Began 2-5 this week. Seems similar.

Depends on where you live...

Hey,

so I play $1/2. Generally buying in for the min which is $100 (50 bbs), if I have extra money outside my bankroll I try and play as deep as I can.

Anyways. This might sound like a mega donk question but I"m wondering whether it's better to check/call (preflop) with AK/AQ and smaller pairs when you have a small bankroll to avoid variance while you're building it.

Like as a preflop rule, should my raising range be down to 99+ or is that just too tight?

Brutal criticism is welcome. Thanks

I would think that you should play your good hands aggressively just as if you were deep.

AK is always a raising hand PF, especially if you're short. Some advocate just pushing with premium hands when short stacked but that's up to you.

Of course your only move after the flop is going to be a shove if you should hit the board with AK.

I assume you mean limp call... with AK/AQ you should be opening: they are hands that play well heads up and not multiway - can be costly on many boards... 88-22 I mean seems fine at games that people are not folding and you are basically set mining... this works well here because when you dont hit a set it should be a simple fold vs a bet and when you do hit a set you stand to have the best hand extremely often. Tough depending on raise sizing limp/calling pocket pairs to set mine is going to lose you $- if thats the case you should not have any hand at all you limp call... raising or limping to reraise.

Small pairs short stacked are not really profitable unless the game is super passive and you know there won't be any raises behind. Even then maybe not. But AK is really strong and that should be raised imo. AK AQ will be your balance hands for your big pairs. Play very tight from early position short stacked.

Yes no limping if you're gonna enter the pot then bet/raise or push. No limping for set mining etc.

Don't worry about balance at 1/2

I started out short stacking at 120 and have done quite well growing and improving my ability to start deeper. You have to get a really good read on the opponents/table you are playing against. I did a lot of limp calling with pocket pairs/AK/AQ/suited connectors. I agree with the previous post that unless you are going to become a regular player that you shouldn't be worried about balance.

When you get AA-JJ, even 99-TT maybe, then you can go to work depending on where you are in table position. If you decide to open-raise, dont do it unless you are committed to the hand all the way. The key to short stack play is timing and keeping your image in tact. Dont make big moves without the (near) nuts 98% of the time.

Your biggest friend will be the c/r or 3-bet on the Turn. With only one card to come you can price out quite a few opponents by bloating the pot and holding a solid image.

This will only work at a passive table. The more aggressive the table the LESS hands you want to play in as a short stack ... and play them in late possition so you can react/get out if you need to without putting in money you cant chase.

If you open, then open strong ... $16 to $20 ... to try and get HU. If you can use this tight image you should be able to double your stack only playing 1 hand or less per orbit in 2.5 hours or so. There is nothing wrong with picking up $12 or so of dead money when everyone folds to your PF raise from the HJ after 4 limps.

Someone will test you ... and hopefully the Flop goes your way. You are holding premium cards and your opponent will only hit the board less than 30% of the time. Dont be afraid to c-bet even if you dont hiit the board as your holdings are probably still good. GL

if you have 50 bbs your playing AK more agressively than if you had 200 bb's imo, your play tp tk type hands more agressive, your playing small pocket pairs less agressive pre, suited connectors you really should not even be playing for 50 bbs unless its like 5 limpers

I agree with this.

When you're shortstacking on purpose, you should be pushing TPTK hands harder than if you were 100-200 BB deep.

Think of it this way: Most pre-flop raises are to about 5 BB ($10). Assuming one caller, the pot is $20ish. Hit your hand on the flop, and bet the pot (10 BB). If your opponent calls, the pot will be $60 and you'll have $70 left. On a "safe" board, bet $30 on the turn and bet $40 on the river.

In a looser game, say someone raises to $10 and you get a couple of callers, you should probably reraise to $35 pre-flop and then bet all-in for $65 on any "good" flops.

Playing tight shortstacked poker to "avoid variance" at $1/$2 is a terrible idea. Not only will you not make good decisions, but you will be leaving too much money on the table. If you're playing shortstacked because your bankroll is light, perhaps it's a good idea to just step away for 3-4 months and rebuild your role at your day job.