I always have 100bb minimum on the table

Bring $600 but the last $200 is only for top ups. but if your stop-loss is $400 for whatever reason then get up as soon as you're down $400

I'm guessing from this type of question that you're either under-rolled or don't have a separate poker roll at all??

I have an hourly of $23hr over 300 hours, so I am obviously a winning player.

Under-rolled. Poker roll is 7 buy ins at 1/2 without much room to supplement from other sources.

I like this. Except in the case I get stacked after I've topped up and putting out a full buy-in would set me over my stop loss say I were to get stacked again (lol).

Dont get stacked as much?..

But seriously:
If you get stacked after topping up, don't fret. As long as you play well, its fine. Its not often that you will get stacked twice in one session.

I have changed several things in my game and I've seen a better profit in April (35$/h over 200h). The bad news is that I lost a loooooooot with my mistakes

How many hours of cash play before you know your hourly? I've been an MTT guy and have enough of a sample to see my ROI as representative of my skill but now I plan on playing more cash and am curious if anyone has an opinion on how long I will have to play before I know where I am at.

Also, what would be a solid hourly for 5/10 NLHE? I played this limit for the first time last week and over 40 hours made $223/hr but had some serious run good (think I won 4 of the 5 pots I played that were over 3K). Is $100/hr a reasonable goal for a solid B+ player?

Games vary a lot across the country so it's hard to say but in general I'd say that is a reasonable goal for an "A" player. If you are a B+ player you should probably focus on 2/5 tbh.

I've read in several posts across the forums that an hourly winrate of 8-10bb/hr is considered the uppermost limits of crushing a LLSNL game. Is this for 100-150bb cap games with an avg 5+1 rake structure, i.e. 1/2 NL $60-300?

I live in PA, where 2/5 is a 200bb cap BI, $200-1000. There is a fair amount of shortstacking, but I'd say the average BI is $750-1000. Even the sstackers end up relatively deep to blind structure, and it's not uncommon to find games where at least half the table is playing +500bb deep. Standard opening raise is 5-7x.

My point is that winrates in this game would seem to tend to approach those expected of a 5-10, rather than a 100bb cap 2/5 (which I understand is how most rooms in NJ and CA are run). I heard LV 2/5 is also 200bb cap; does anyone have any significant hours logged?

FWIW I am at 30bb/hr over the last 100 hrs at 2/5 200bb. I know that this would be running waaaaay above expectation even at a 5-10 150bb cap structure (15bb/hr), but it seems ungodly high for expected 2/5 win rates.

In b4 fish on a heater

Lol. Try:
Month 1 as a "pro": +$8,000
Month 2 as a "pro" +$200

I mean, I can't really speak to specific numbers here, but it's effectively always true that if you don't suck at playing deep, then playing deeper stacked will increase your edge. So yes, having deeper-stacked average stacks could increase your hourly quite a bit.

Probably more telling is that the raise size is 5-7x. This is really going to magnify win-rates imo, and suggests the game is effectively playing close to 5/10 in terms of average pot size anyway.

That being said, 100 hours is effectively nothing. A pretty big fish could be a winner over that period, and a pretty good player could be a loser over that period. So a solid player could post a massive win-rate over that period if he ran above expectation.

One's winrate is dependent more on the quality of players than it is on stack depth. There are games across the country that are 100bb or less where the achievable hourly is higher than in a 200bb buy in Vegas game. In fact, often times the deeper buy-in games actually play nittier. Also, just because the buyins are short doesn't mean the stack sizes are short. If the game is good the stack sizes will likely get as big or bigger than the stack sizes of a deep buy-in game.

Yes, but we're going to consider the fields equal, i.e. this a good 2/5 where folks play 200bb+ like a 40bb stack (overvaluing pairs, playing weak hands OOP etc.).

If tables are weak and deep then the achievable winrate will be on the upper end of the the spectrum. However, I wouldn't say it would be like 5/10 unless players regularly open for $60+. Also, keep in mind most 5/10s are deep as well.

Good info, Ty.

Fwiw I said it would be "close" to 5/10 in average pot, but a better statement might be "it's close to 5/10 in terms of typical pot size." Since obviously the big pots in 5/10 will still be way more massive than at 2/5, so the average pot size will still be different between the games.

5-7x at 2/5 is 2.5x-3.5x at 5/10. I don't play 5/10, but I find it unlikely that people are typically making it closer to 6x than say 4x pre with no limpers in. I could be way off though.

I think 4x is standard at 5/10 because people are actually thinking about your open size.

Anywhere from 30-40 is standard at 5-10

Based on my play in 5/10 I'd say there is no standard. Some games are like 3x to 4x and other games are like 6x to 7x and a lot of games you are going to put in $100+ to see a flop. There is a lot more 3-betting in 5/10 so that makes the pots bigger, but also rich guys don't like getting pushed out of pots. The vast majority of my hours at 5/10 have been played where 5/10 is the biggest game so it could vary elsewhere.

FWIW, SABR42 was playing in a 5/10 tonight where the guy on his left was making it $4k a hand. Good luck finding a 2/5 that plays like that.

Going to post here my giraffe one day. Maybe when i reach 100k

What is a standard BR for 2-5? 15k?

Should be good with 20bi

This.

A winning player at any stakes can expect 20 buy ins to be pretty sufficient.

Obv for a losing player, no matter the size of your bank roll you will eventually lose it all.

25k aka 50 buyins

25 is a bit high. Depends on your situation. But if a player starts with 10 buy-ins and loses 3 of them, as long as you have the mental strength to step down, I recommend taking shots. Because you can have a heater and make 5 buy-ins in a week and have flexability to stay at that level and learn more. But if you play for a living I dont recommend that philosophy.

Personally, its hard for me to step down. But I have gotten better over the years.

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