That's a great idea.

Bought a used Ping G400 max to try out. I brought it to the shop to get the adapted to one of my go-to shafts. Getting it cut down to 44" as well. I know this thing will not be close to as long as my Rogue but if I can find more fairways I will put it in play.

Why wouldn't it be as long as the rogue? longer shaft in that one? Was under the impression it was among the longest currently available.

Just a hunch. I certainly think it is more forgiving than the Rogue. Also cutting the shaft down by 1" should help with hitting the sweet spot more consistently too.

If you're cutting down the shaft that much, what are you doing to keep the swingweight where it should be?

The G400 Max is definitely more forgiving than the Rogue, but as Booker alluded to, you are quite possibly ruining a shaft for no solid reason. It's not like you can reverse this without getting a new shaft.

I haven't decided as of yet. I'm going to swing it first and see what happens. I have plenty of lead tape to try stuff.

Not worried about this. This is the same shaft that I currently play in my Rogue and it was sitting in the closet with a Titleist tip on it. It's a cheap stock shaft in Callaway drivers so getting another few in case I want them will not be too big or expensive of an issue.

i've added 20 yards of carry since getting use to a 46" shaft

I grabbed a Cobra Utility 2 Iron, because why not. It's adjustable, so I lofted down to 18°.

Not sure if I'll put it in my bag yet... But it seems like a fun club to have.

Anyone have any experience with a 2i? Any advice?

FWIW, my 3 hybrid goes ~210-215...this was going anywhere from 220-330 on the Launch Monitor, but wasn't consistent, especially with its dispersion (fading a lot, sometimes even slicing despite having a stiff shaft. Usually my irons usually tend to draw)

I have had a T-MB 2-iron and 3-iron off and on over the last year or two. Sometimes I like it, sometimes I don't. When my iron game is on it's the greatest thing ever. When you miss your shot however, it goes nowhere.

I still have a RBZ 3iron which is 17.5*, I used it mostly as a driving iron when I was having a rough go of it with my driver over a year ago. Was not too hard to hit off the ground due to its design, was a hollow utility type iron.

May give it another chance, I'm looking for a 210 yd club above my 4H, my 5W goes a bit too far and I'm not consistent enough with that club length

Let me tell you from experience that this is a bad idea. If you want to cut it down 1" that's fine, but have a fitter do it so that the flex and swing weight match as close as possible to what it was before the cut. This will involve cutting from both the butt end and tip end and adding weight to the head and/or using a lighter grip. If you just cut an inch off and do nothing else, you will go from lets say a D3 SW to potentially a C3 SW and that can mess up your golf swing pretty bad. I currently play a 44" driver and learned all this the hard way FWIW. Now that I have it set up correctly, I absolutely love it. But I did some damage to my game in figuring all this out.

What fitter did you go with to get this done? I am down in Naples next week and if I get an open day I am thinking of going to Club Champion for a full bag fitting.

Left my 60* near a green a little over a wk ago. Got an MD3 58* in Outlet condition (new) from CPO for a good deal. Considering either running a 46-52-58 or 46-50-54-58 setup.

I do all my own club work. A lot of research, wasted shafts, and tinkering around until I finally figured out the ways to get the desired result. Just hoping to let you learn from my mistakes before you waste any time/money on different shafts and stuff.

Example: When you cut an inch off the butt of a D3 swingweight driver you are left with around C3. To get it back to D3 you add weight to the head. By doing that you end up with a driver that is almost a full flex less than it was before (stiff flex shaft has now become a regular flex). This is one of those things I learned the hard way as well. In my current driver I had to take 3/4" off the tip and 1/2" off the butt to get the desired length. Then to get the correct flex I had to add weight to the head and install a lightweight grip. I took 25 grams out of the grip this way and that meant adding less weight to the head. Now I rarely miss a fairway, but it still feels like rocket science to me after all my tinkering, so that's why I recommend a fitter a.k.a. rocket scientist.

Club Champion sucks. Some of their fitters are OK, some are truly worthless. But a big issue I have with them is that they send all the specs to their HQ in Chicago to be built. Chicago builds it, ships it in a box back to the store where they simply hand you the box. Well, what if the specs are off? What if the swingweights are one or more off? If there is any issue, you've got to ship it back to Chicago.

I can't stand any fitting studio that doesn't do their own builds onsite for QC purposes.

In Naples, given a choice between Club Champion and True Spec, I'd choose the latter. But if you're ever in the DFW area, you can get fit and your clubs built by guys that do the same with PGA Tour players and their equipment.

I asked our assistant pro and he has a buddy that works for True Spec Golf although he didn't have any experience with them. Here is the issue I see though for next week.

Club Champion full bag fitting $350, currently running 50% off, so $175

True Spec Golf full bag fitting $450.

That's some crazy money to be fitted ($450) unless it comes off the price of the clubs that you buy. Do they give you room and board over a weekend for the fitting?

Well, you're going to drop $3-5k on a full bag of clubs, and you're concerned about the fitting fee?

And I don't have any knowledge regarding True Spec's fitters and/or builds, but I do have tons of knowledge with Club Champion. For example, a 20 handicap lady I know went there to get fitted. She hits her 7-iron ~100 yards. They fit her in TaylorMade p790's with shafts that had a frequency reading of 307 on her 7-iron! Needless to say she couldn't get them off the ground. I've seen quite a few golfers that had to be refit after going to CC.

But without any recommendations, you're going to have to get lucky to have a fitter with a clue no matter where you go.

A proper full bag fitting will take 3 hours give or take, so that's $150 per hour for a (supposed) expert's time. For clubs that will last years. For clubs that fit you, not clubs that you have to adapt your swing to. $450 might be a little high, but it's certainly in the ballpark.

Let's remember, getting custom fit clubs isn't for everybody. It's expensive compared to buying off the rack. But the way they react and feel is totally different. And well worth it to many.

I know it would be a good investment for myself. I'm curious to see how well I have fit myself over the last year or so.

You're probably right.

I got fit this year and ended up buying new irons. I think it was $100 or $150, but I got that back with my purchase. I hit 6 or 7 different models and a few different shafts as well. I think everyone should be fitted if you have a consistent swing. It really was quite incredible when we found the right combination. There was a clear difference in distance and accuracy. I was thoroughly satisfied!

Club champion is meh in my experience... they have a decent selection of high end stuff, and I feel relatively confident getting fit on a trackman vs any other launch monitor... but the price to get fit + the actual price of the stuff they fit you for is a lot.

If you're looking to save money, I'd consider going to them for the fitting, especially if it's half off, and buying something similar on ebay or w/e. I have a 7 year old set of miuras that I would happily still play if I got them reshafted, since the faces/groves are honestly great for their age. You could easily find a used version of a driver that's probably 30% of the cost of whatever they're selling you for new. Or buy the components yourself and have a local golfshop/clubfitter build it for like $30.

I am pretty happy with my full set at this point, but it has literally taken years to figure out what works for me, with a lot of clubs that didn't last long. One club fitter I used for a while was pretty happy to swap out stuff that really wasn't a good fit. I also have X+ shafts in everything in my bag besides my wedges, so it has been a bit harder to find any stock stuff that works.

I picked up and practiced with my new Mack Daddy 60 degree 8 deg bounce C-grind. I had this same club this year, but really wore it out. Also got it with a KBS C-taper X, which was flighting it perfectly (plus I really like the weight). I had tour issue x100s in my old one, which I always feel like I'd launch high and frequently right. I have hard stepped C-taper in my 4-PW.

I for sure will not buy anything from them. They are way overpriced.

I don't think I have ever hear anyone who launches X100's too high. Except for me of course

I ended up booking at Tour Spec for Thursday as their times worked better with my schedule. We shall see what I get fitted for...