Nice! Dare I say you’re not climbing at a snails pace anymore lol.

But damnit I want some non slab vids!

Haha ok, I can redo the 3’s and attempt the 4 on the heavy overhang + put in some burns on some cave stuff.

I’ve definitely turned up the pace. I’d say this was a slightly more controlled and static climb than most (apart from the final move) so it was actually a little slow by my recent standards.

Since I can’t edit the OP:



Wish the video got the start in it. Basically both feet are on chips and left hand is on a side pull crimp

The weird thing about this route is that it didn’t have a crux. It was just hard every move the whole way through

Nice send! You looked pretty smooth throughout the whole climb.

Thanks. Things are definitely getting smoother. I think the top roping is a part of that. As is visualizing climbs before attempting them. It helped that I worked this boulder 12+ attempts before the send

I think I could do it again without the wild move at the top but it requires moving the right foot slightly up onto the higher chip and the sloper up top is so awful that I couldn't do the foot move unless I projected it individually. Ultimately I found it easier to just lunge.

I have several alternate betas that all work but they all make certain moves harder than the beta I settled on.

^ will fix that video, my original shows the feet but somehow it got ****ed up putting it on YouTube

11/21

Bouldering 1:30

Skipped my trip to CT due to traffic

Got totally destroyed despite 3 days off and feeling high energy

Got two bad flappers one of which wouldn’t stop bleeding and ended my session. Same as last time I went to this gym.

Did not send anything above V2. Slapped the top on a V3 4-5 times and fell. Had trouble hitting the first move in a V5 crimp climb that uses the arete. Hit a dyno to a sloper in many attempts on a V5 but didn’t get a foot on fast enough and fell and gave up on it. Fell on final move of a V2 cave climb when grip stopped working.

Some explanations.
(1) stress. Don’t know why but I was quite anxious this session and maybe impatient. I even bit my inner cheek on the drive to the gym and was tasting blood. Not sure why I felt this way today
(2) didn’t feel totally comfortable in the gym since it was pretty busy and not my regular gym.
(3) all of the walls are overhanging which is something I still don’t have a ton of experience with
(4) warmed up too fast. Did no V0 and one V1 and jumped right to a V2 which turned out to be V3 and quite difficult. Failed on this climb in 7-8 attempts and gave up on it.
(5) got flash pumped working on the V2 over and over at the start of the session which may be the number one factor


Apart from the tears today felt low wear and tear. Rather than take more extended rests I think I will climb again ASAP. Hopefully the main tear won’t prevent me. I’ve never bled so much before from a tear, it was a little shocking

Better quality video of the 6 that shows the start:

Love those lock off mantle-y get your weight onto one foot moves.

That looks like V1, pretty sure I can do that on the first day of climbing. But I weigh 150, can do 20+ pullups, and my legs are tiny.

Hahah loco if you don't climb I would bet a lot of money you can't send that route, those holds are not pretty. The crimp you lock off and then mantle on is well under 10MM and slopey and the top sloper is bad enough that its barely possible to move off of with both feet on. The starting crimps are pretty bad too and the first sloper is a V6 hold for sure

Edit-not sure if you're kidding since I don't follow your log but pull-ups have nothing whatsoever to do with that climb

FWIW, I know 4 people I know that have climbed V10 or 5.13+, or both. 2 weigh 165, 1 weighs 170, another 150. I think only one of them can do 20 or more pull-ups.

Locoooooo lemme know when you wanna climb next time you’re gonna be in Dallas for a bit. I think you’d enjoy it.

Yeah but I also have tiny fingers so I am most likely a crimp master also. But my biggest strength is upperbody to lowerbody ratio. Jacked 175 pound male upperbody but with a 135lb runner lowerbody. I do have big feet but I don't think that's a problem.

I will probably check it out soon but I really feel like I would dominate. Climbing is an unathletic white man sport, so it's not that hard too be competitive.

Anyways, that's obviously all wild opinion and conjecture. We will see, but I gotta think I am a lock to down at least a V3 on the first day.

I'd be impressed if you climb a legit V3 the first day, though its certainly possible. There are some softer ones that aren't too finger intensive but even lower strength V3 climbs can have a relevant technical component, moves like heel hooks and foot swaps and moving on tiny chips, plus finding the right body positions to make moves with control and moving quickly and efficiently, knowing how to grip the holds before you grab onto them, etc. That's all assuming you have beta and can remember it and replicate it when you attempt the climb, or that you can read the problems and know how to climb them which is pretty hard with zero experience climbing

11/24 bouldering 2:15

Tears are a lot better but still had to tape the 3 fingers from last session

Pull-ups caused slight R shoulder pain going below parallel to I stopped. Did a few hangs to warm up and had nothing, felt like a I could barely do 20MM and pockets

Warmed up bouldering sending some 2’s and then sent an old slab 3 I had trouble on before. Surprised myself and found beta and sent a tricky slab V5 that felt a lot easier than the black 6. This makes my 10th 5 or so. Wasn’t sure on beta on an overhanging V5 and fell but felt close. Tried a short overhanging V7 and hit the first 4 moves then fell on a crux move. Will try this one again. Did several moves on the hardest slab problem, a V8 I will video another time, but couldn’t do the move before the crux or the first crux move

Spent the last half of session working on a sloper V6. Sent the climb from the crux onwards but couldn’t get further than the first crux move from the start. If I can hit the 2nd crux move I can send. I think I’ll go in fresher next time and possibly flash this problem, an hour isn’t long to work on a problem this close to my limit.

Unfortunately split two of my tips near the End of the session and they are pretty raw and won’t be possible to tape. Hoping they are closed and a lot better come Tuesday so I can take out this sloper problem

Looks like I could have gotten more aggressive standing on my foot on the 2nd video.





I will try the V4 problem on the heavy overhang next time to appease u guys lol. Probably not right I send V7/8 before I climb V4 in cave lol

Slap that ass (sloper) lol.

Hahah hell yes

Weirdly that doesn’t feel like the hardest move. The first crux move of left hand to the smaller sloper and the 2nd move to the pinch both feel harder than that final crux move. The first move is pretty low percentage for me. Switching the left hand grip on the first sloper before the first crux move also feels maximal and makes the crux way harder. I would say the climb is equally hard as a V7 crimp climb I’ve semt half of which starts overhanging, but I haven’t hit the crux on the 7 yet so who knows how hard it really is. I’d also say the hardest individual move on the slab climb (the finish) is at least equally hard as the hardest move on the sloper climb.

On the whole though, the Boulder feels significantly harder than the black slab V6. Most of the holds are better than the worst holds on the slab climb but there’s way more moves and every move is quite hard

I’ll def defend black being a hard 6 too, based upon the fact that I’ve climbed the V3,4,5 slab climbs and each one is significantly harder than level beneath

11/28

Climbing 3:15

Went on a road to trip to CT to climb w old coach

Warmed up with some hanging and a set of pull-ups. Did 5 sec on 12MM half crimped to finish.

Flashed some new 2’s to warm up but failed on a relatively juggy 3 in the cave in a few attempts. Before this messed up beta on a long flat wall 2 and hilariously had to do a right hand bump with only my left index finger on the left side of the hold. Hit the move right as the finger peeled lol.

Flashed a V4 in the cave, surprisingly. This seemed softer than any of the V4 at my usual gym though, and most of the climb was a traverse and a finish without feet that might have been V4 if I wasn’t long enough to hit the wall with my right foot and create compression. Sent a crimp pinch V4 that felt hard. Sent four other V3 in the cave area and two others beside this, only flashing two of them. Moved to the first slab area and had zero success. Rested more and moved to another higher slab area and made it very far into a V5 but struggled on the final 2 moves. This was the hardest problem I bothered with. Problem seemed really hard, with one girl who is a V10 climber and nationally competitive as a youth being unable to do it due to a huge reach move.

Finished with 3x5 seconds one arm lockoff on a mini jug with the other hand holding bicep for assistance. Left arm wasn’t strong enough to hold 90 degrees for very long

Having a lot of weight on one hand on anything but a massive jug feels like a big weakness right now, especially in the cave. Perhaps another way of saying my closed hand grip is very weak

Think i was a little sick today and it impacted me. Didn’t realize until I was already long on the road. Skin was also pretty bad from my last 2 sessions and I had a lot of tape on. Between opening two fingertips and the tear in Newton I’ve had three really bad tears in my last two sessions and three other more minor ones. Hoping I can go after my V6 sloper project in 3-4 days without needing tape.

We be climbing slabs and ****. So this is the kind of thing that happens

https://imgur.com/a/WjxAFr8

https://imgur.com/a/b4wCBgJ

If you like this type of movement you would really dig trad climbing. Lots of corners/stemming and slabby terrain.

Here is one of the local routes in Chattanooga to give you an idea of style:

https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...for-excellence

Those look like some amazing climbs

I've heard trad mentioned many times but never really knew what it was. I will definitely look into it

11/30

Bouldering 2:15

Taking a break from caffeine starting tomorrow. Threw up after having my coffee a few days ago and felt sick climbing today. Think I have a bug though.

Sent the 6 but had accidental contact with a foot due to a small beta error. Will try again Tuesday and video it.

Not much else, repeated old climbs to warm up and it took 8-9 attempts to send the 6. Finished with funky beta on a V5 where I crimp the side and top of a volume to stand up on a sloper

Feel pretty sick right now but seemed ok this morning so idk. Hopefully this is over by Tuesday. Was also heavy today, maybe bloated

12/4

Having right calf pain going onto toes plus some right upper back and decided not to climb today. Going to rest till Thursday and see if I'm better, if not will climb Sat which will represent a 1 week break, probably something I need with all these tweaks and strains I have

12/5

Bouldering 1 hour

Calf was magically better so I went for an easy session. I was planning on going a little longer but I went to Framingham and the gym had barely been reset at all, leading to me leaving out of boredom after climbing all the 2’s and 3’s and finding nothing else interesting beneath V6. Should be little to no wear and tear from this session but with my shoulders who knows

Would like to go hard this weekend. Wasn’t even planning on climbing today

1-2 week break is coming but not while I’m climbing pain free and making this much progress

Was able to run briefly today without any pain, a big benchmark for the ab strain

12/7

Bouldering 2:15

Felt pretty good today and went for it. Couldn't re-send my new 6 in a few attempts, wasn't quite strong or efficient enough today, but did manage to do it from the crux again. Sent my purple 5 again crimping a volume

Got really persistent with a slightly slabby very tricky V4 that felt like a 4+ or 5 to me. Took probably 25 attempts with short rest but I eventually got it, most of the attempts projecting 2 moves. Will video this one in the future. Basically you have to balance between a left foot chip and right foot hold in a moderately wide straddle, with right hand crimping the side of a volume to get a tiny bit of tension to stay on the wall, then left hand pinching the volume right beside the right hand before bumping the right to some big holds, after which there are several more grip intensive moves

Hit the first crux move of the crimp V7 but next move is harder and might not be possible. It's basically just a huge right hand bump to a bad crimp with feet high + a severe overhang and left hand on a barely usable side pull crimp. If I hit the move it will be by far the hardest move I've done, but theres still no guarantee of a send since its only halfway through the route. The rest of the route finishes slightly slabby though, so if I can hit the crux and make it over the top with my left hand there is a lot of hope. This one will be around for several weeks too

Last 45 mins of the session was working on a white V5 I can do every move on and sent from crux but managed to slip on the finish of in my best attempt, and then re opened a finger tip on the crux move and called it a day

Might be fresh enough to do another moderate session Sunday, depends on if a friend is visiting/climbing. May wait till tuesday otherwise and go for a high performance session where I send the 3's, 4, 5 and both 6's on the right side of the gym, then attack the new routes on the flat and overhanging walls and start finding new projects

Next session will be either Sunday or Tues, haven't decided what my skin/body can take + will see if I can climb with my training partner