Apologies again to Renton, I was way out of line there and took his words super personally for no good reason

No worries. That you were that sensitive might be a sign that you are overreaching a bit. You might be the type of person that can't do a thing unless he's going HAM on it from all angles. I can relate a little bit. As soon as my job got to the point where I could no longer feasibly train 4 days a week, I had trouble adhering to any training routine. As soon as I stopped logging calories (which I did for two straight years), my diet slipped big time.

Yeah might be some projecting there. If I had anticipated that my job was going to absorb my entire life, maybe I would have been able to program things more conservatively and stick to them.

As for your case, I wasn't advocating eating more calories (although, as a separate notion, I do given your activity level), just cutting down on the liquid calories when running such a big deficit.

I can definitely be obsessive and lack balance

I guess it’s about lifestyle for me. I can enjoy a lifestyle of having a tasty dinner every night that is reasonably large, having a little wine some nights, and generally just eating when hungry otherwise. At this point in my life having 4 smaller meals a day wouldn’t be a lifestyle I would enjoy. If I find eventually it’s required to meet my climbing goals I may do it. But I don’t think that’s gonna happen. I think it’s more likely I make progressively healthier dinner choices, such as lean fish rather than salmon poelle, eat less when I eat out, optimize nutrient intake etc: these are things I can do and be happy with my dietary habits. Eating chicken and sweet potatoes every meal though just wouldn’t do it for me. It’s honestly hard for me to take in calories at all during the day right now, the liquid is just the easiest way to get quick nutrients, and as long as I’m having my scoops of casein I stay pretty satiated till dinner time. I do like to have a little solid food at some point in the day before training though. We’ll just see what happens. Right now the days are flowing easily and weight is dropping, things are basically just good

I do wonder if taking in my fruits in liquid form isn’t ideal. However there’s no way I’d get in multiple servings of broccoli sprouts without blending them, so this seems like an effective method. I could certainly do with eating some more fruits I enjoy during the day though. When I was being really healthy in the past I would have 2-3 fruits I would eat on a given day in relatively large portions and generally felt very energetic. Something like chopping up a watermelon and having a big portion of that during a given day, a carton of berries another day, etc. The green veggies are harder for me to take in

Action shot from yesterday:

https://imgur.com/a/vyf5TdM

Sick legit V6 I’ve almost figured out beta on below. Any advice welcome. First sloperss are basically unusable, I go right middle finger to the bolt hole on bottom one and right foot on, stand up on right foot and left hand over top sloper. The next set of sloperss is slightly better. I don’t really think middle finger in bolt is right but it does let me set up on the problem and get left hand to the top sloper. Could reposition right hand at that point. I circled the two holds that are hard to see. The top right one could be possible to match on

https://imgur.com/a/RQJHTg1

Start of a climb I was trying beta on yday and kept falling:

https://youtu.be/YYNLQVi_uzQ

V3 from a couple weeks ago, I think if I moved the right foot over or was a little fresher I’d have stuck this one:

https://youtu.be/4TdUoKPn0bE

Do you like eggs? This is my go to when I am short on time or don't have anything in the house to eat.

Cook up some mushrooms, onion, peppers any sort of green veggie you like (spinach and or brussel sprouts are my favs) toss a few eggs+egg whites in there. Top with some salsa or tomatoes and and you will have an ungodly amount of food to eat that is only like 300-400 calories depending on the number of eggs you use. Assuming you like eggs, this is a super easy way to get down a bunch of veggies w/o eating them straight up. Add some watermelon+salt for a side if you are super hungry.

The first climb here looks really interesting and tricky. I think it will go like you are doing it but is going to require a lot of body tension. A couple of different options would be to try and switch feet before you move up with your right hand. Ideally, you would end up with your left foot where your right foot is currently and your right foot on the foot hold out to the right. You will get a lot more power out of that gaston if your hips are further right.

Another option would be to just start with left foot already backstepped on the starting hold and cross your left hand to the gaston. That will make the initial move more difficult but sets you up nicely for the next moves. It may be too bunched of a start though.

I totally agree with your thought process in the second video. Cross that foot through or just drive hard through the feet and it will go.

+1 just be tighter (I wanna day try harder) and that move will stick.

V3 Id just drop the left foot off the wall, I see too many people always trying to have both feet on, it’s kicking you off the wall there. I’d cross through and flag with the left. Fail that, super flexible hips guy, throw a right heel on the jug on the volume.

Yeah this sounds quite good. If I ever start getting hungry again before dinner I’ll try it. It’s bound to happen eventually!

I’m lucky my sister is also a good chef and cooks a lot of veggies. A lot of the time in the evening I just end up eating some low kcal roasted veggies or homemade pickles to fill out my veggie intake.

Still struggling to find solid food that works before a climb. I’ve been having a protein bar some days but don’t like it. perhaps eggs or a sandwich could work. My stomach seems to do really well with bread, rice, low fat proteins during the day. Feels a lot better to train on versus having a steak or something. If I could i’d Just eat sushi most days for lunch

Ok ty guys

Do you like oatmeal? Some quick oats and scoop of whey is something I like. You can also do stuff like overnight oats. Unsweetened almond milk, Greek yogurt, chocolate whey, oats mixed up and left in the fridge overnight is pretty easy.

Breakfast foods like Greek yogurt + fruit, eggs and oatmeal+fruit etc are staples of my diet. I like them and they are all easy to make and gernerally pretty healthy.

If I am climbing outside I'll often take pancakes made out of oatmeal, egg whites and unsweetened apple sauce. This could be something you make ahead of time and gobble up pre-workout.

Yeah I like oatmeal. I don’t have the appetite in the morning for something as rich as eggs. Keep in mind I’ve been skipping breakfast and fasting most days for several years now.

So I ate the below today attempting to increase protein and am borderline stuffed at 3pm.

fish oil 30
Coffee 50
Fruit/veggie shake 16oz 120
8oz ground chicken (sprayed with olive oil) 42p 15f 3c 350
Ketchup 30
2oz lamb kofte 150 15p

Kcal: 730


My sister is making mini meatloaf for dinner, around 40p and 270 kcal each. Probably gonna have 2 5oz glasses of wine to induce hunger/happiness plus eat one of the meatloaf and some greens and call it a day at like 1300 kcal. If I have the appetite i’ll force down some sweet potato too. Theoretically I could eat 2 of the meatloaf and hit 145p and 1600kcal. If I can’t stomach 2 perhaps I should have 1.5 scoops of casein before bed and hit 1500.

tomorrow i’ll keep the lunch smaller so I have an appetite at dinner. Getting in this much solid protein just crushed my appetite. Increasing carbs around tomorrow’s workout will be a good way to keep the kcal for the day >1500. Then Tuesday I climb so I’ll aim for at least 1800 and possibly as much as 2500, with significant carbs pre and PWO (mostly liquid).

Part of this could be no longer using marijuana. It’s common to have very low appetite post quitting

This can’t go on forever, eventually I’m gonna be way lighter and start getting hungry again

Broooooo take it from someone who thinks way too much about this stuff, you’re doing great with (relatively) minimal thought. We need to stop the diet talk here and keep it on climbing. There’s thousands of words over the last 48 hours about someone who is crushing their diet and weight loss goals, let’s not over complicate it.

Thanks bro, I know you’re right.

8/22

Climb 3:15

Sent some new 3’s and one 4. No flashes. Slipped a lot on slab, over and over. Switched to my less aggressive shoes and did slightly better. Came very close on a flash attempt on a 6 with a horrible left hand Gaston but slipped near the top. Could not repeat because the Gaston was too hard on my left shoulder. Eventually couldn’t sustain enough power to send a full 3 and called it a session


Took 4 days between sessions and right forearm was still slightly tight and sore from my last climb. Probably repeating the V5 crimp climb at the end of the session and doing the crux move a few times. Still, wish I recovered faster

Right shoulder and right finger felt fine all session. Left shoulder Ok other than the Gaston. I think I need to avoid shouldery moves in general right now. Not until I’m 100%. Also gotta be careful with the joint/tendon pain in my right index finger, also from that V5 crimp climb. Climbing 2x/week absolute max until I’m healed. Ideally i’ll be able to have a big session 2 weekends from now. Taking off at least until Sunday now. Entirely possible I will take a 10 day break and just do PT 2-3x + keep losing weight

8/24

PT 1 hour

Holding off on weighing self for a while, daily fluctuations get way into my head. Diet is going well and progress continues. Avg kcal the entire past week including two higher calorie days and several 1700-1800 was about 2000

So sore from my climb 2 days ago I'm not sure if I'll be able to go Sunday. Traps are sorer than anything which is a great sign. Big session planned for next Sat when my former coach visits.

Back off period has gone very well, I've been climbing slightly <2x/week and my shoulders and finger are responding well

8/9 2.5 hours flashed 3 new V3 climbed 3 V4

8/12 2 hours sent V5 crimp climb

8/18 3 hours, crushed 3's and sent new V5/6 plus some old 4's

8/22 3:15, was still a little sore, sent some new 3's and put in a lot of good efforts on 4's, got very far in a 6 early in session

I think another couple weeks of this level of volume should be enough to get the rotator cuffs and finger about back to normal health but we'll see

Faaaaack once you’re a tinybro your elite flexibility and finger strength is gonna crush me.

elite hahahahah

I used the 10mm the other day for 1-2 seconds, felt proud

I am going to get so ****ing tiny though bro, u don't even kno

my PT workout today:

various warmup stuff

Cable band press 3x20
cable band row 3x20
band shoulder rotation 3x10

pushup 3xI can't even write this too sad
side plank 3x
prone shoulder raise 3x

landmine press 3xbar+25
TRX decline body row 3x10
db zoltan(idk wtf these are called) curls 30x10 40x8,5

So I can curl 40 pounds for 8 reps but can barely do pushups. Elite athlete training FTW

Even better, minor tweak in right upper trap. Pretty sure this happened on the last set of either landmine press or trx row when I went straight armed instead of keeping a slight bend. W/e very minor

Those push muscles will come in handy outside! You can encounter heinous mantles where having pressing strength really helps. It also helps on compression boulders and overall shoulder girdle strength/stability on very steep climbing.

I think having some sort of pressing in your training plan is probably a good idea, even if is something as simple as push-ups.

Zottman?

That's the one

I push all the time on boulders and love compression climbs. I guess I just have no pushing endurance at all. I felt like I could bench around my body weight but 3x6 push-ups says otherwise, lol. I really enjoyed DB benching last year but my shoulders felt otherwise

8/26

Trap tweak basically healed. Front delts are quite sore, guessing from the pushups. Couldn’t climb today as a result; forearms are still sore anyway. I’m looking to do PT again tuesday or weds and possibly climb as well, then put in a very high quality climb next Saturday when my former coach visits. Fingers still aren’t 100% so perhaps I will not climb at all until Sat, would be 10 days between sessions and my longest break by far since I was injured last year. Considering the rotators and my fingers having been <100% for months I think it’s probably a well needed break. These last couple weeks have in general represented a back off period while injuries heal