Man those are some funky V3's lol. Could just be your style though. But that one sequence on the yellow is absurd.

Can you step on the right start at that point in the V6? Hard to tell how it is as a foot.

It’s not great as a foot. I think the chip to the right is probably better

The real question for the 6 is whether I can match on the top right crimp without doing a high left foot first. I’m thinking yes. Possibly I could even get to the top pinch without the high left foot first but unsure

That yellow is definitely my style and felt very easy. It was graded V4 so maybe that was accurate. A few of the Crimps felt pretty juggy

On the 6 it looks like you are out of position when making the left hand move to the gaston. It seems to me like you would be in better position if you switched feet and back stepped to make that move. Having your left foot on the lowest foothold will set you up for the next sequence much better. The right foot move looks quite awkward off that high left foot.

Thanks

I figured out this route but it took the last 60%+ of my session to do it. I will incorporate that foot swap since it makes things easier for sure

After repeating failed beta over and over what I figured out the top:

-right hand up to top right crimp, don't get too high up (this was my error much of the time spent on this move), left foot up to the lower crimp, left arm press out into right hand gaston lockoff, cut right foot and lean right, left hand crossover to top hold using it as a pinch side pull (potentially skipping a hand match on right hand crimp), stand on left foot and right hand cross under to the top

done all of those moves but the foot move+ right foot cut, but was making an error before making the foot move that crushed me.

8/9

climbing 3:00

Was going slow projecting two 2-3 move sequences for almost half the session, only the 2nd of which I got. I think this boulder will still go next session, but I'm gonna tackle some new V3-4 before I go after it since I didn't get enough variety this session.

Sent some new V3's and repeated a V4, then fell on a 5 once before working on the crimp 6.

This wasn't a particularly taxing session, besides on my skin. I want to keep up this every other day surge since I had zero pain today but my skin probably can't take it unless I go pretty short on Friday and tape heavily, which will make it harder to send the crimp 6. Maybe this steroid cream will do wonders and I can tape and crush

I've climbed over 8 hours the last 6 days and have only had moderate soreness. Though who knows what the next two days may bring. I don't want to go crazy but I see no reason to let up right now. I'm not falling on the 6 due to strength and don't think I've been working at my limit on anything. That plus very minimal training the last month and a half seem to have done wonders for my work capacity and nagging pains. I'm loving the boulders at this gym too.

Position I’m in after awkward left foot move. From here I can either press out left hand and then cut right foot, or just try to shift weight and cut the foot first

https://i.imgur.com/iNtfJh9.png

Position I am in and can go left hand up and finish from, after foot cut + left hand pressout and hand match (which I can potentially skip)

https://i.imgur.com/7xEvnTr.jpg

Can also lean right from that position after the match, which makes me in better position for the next hold

Simple and fun V3 I warmed up on:

I think a problem in this first pic is I'm too high up. Don't think I can cut the right foot from this position. Possibly keeping more bend in the left arm and getting the left foot more scrunched up would let me do the next move without being too far from the wall

I can't really tell based on photos what is happening. In the videos I am mostly paying attention to how your COG is moving through space. That will usually point out movement inefficiencies.

Here are a couple videos

https://youtu.be/

https://youtu.be/






I think the pressout move before foot up is a huge error because it gets me too high compared to the 2nd photo above. I didn’t try cutting foot from that position though, which is the next move for sure

I think you’d be more efficient if you learned to move off the “wrong” foot more. Too much unnecessary switching imo.

Probably. I'm not getting anywhere on that orange without a couple switches though. Gotta stay pretty close to the wall to stay on those angled flat crimps. Like that foot move I slip on in the first video, there's basically nothing at all on the foot I put left foot on at that angle. The person I saw send just put the left foot where the right foot is and switched, then right foot up. Not sure if that would be easier. The thing is I can easily make the next left hand move without moving feet at all, but then the following foot move becomes hard enough that I don't think I can do it.

The switches will go regardless. What I really need to figure out is the body position to get the left foot up from double gaston and be able to cut the right foot to get closer to the wall and shift my body right and weight onto left foot. Pretty sure pressing out and then left foot up isn't going to work: I need to be slightly less right and make the move while left hand is still in gaston

9/10

Finger is infected. Was ok yesterday (bad rip on side of nail climbing on Weds) and should have climbed but held off one day since it was still bad enough to limit me on Crimps and I needed the recovery. Then used the wrong cream at night by accident and it got infected overnight. Just gonna do some pull-ups and rest it until Monday. 4 days off is way too much but after how hard I went the last 3 sessions it won’t kill me:

Had a med change the last week that is effectively changing my life. Instead of Ritalin I’m taking the longer acting vyvanse which also treats binge eating. I have an unprecedented level of control over my diet even with the most tempting foods around me. Much more than this though, I just feel good, energetic and motivated all the time without any extra anxiety or jitters. I will keep updating as time passes but as of right now the change is remarkable and I haven’t felt more hopeful or happy in a long time. I feel totally confident I can lose these 10-12 pounds of fat (weight had gone from hydrated 162 to 165) and even on days I don’t have anything exciting lined up I still feel happy and keep busy. At the same time food still tastes great and my relationship with it feels much healthier than before. No longer having the emotional weight of bad diet days, or of uncertainty about reaching my goals, is a huge relief. I’ve also been making strides in other goal-centric activities. Things have been looking so good I got briefly worried I was manic but my psychiatrist told me no, I’m just doing really well lol

Equally happy that my dads surgery went well. The whole family seems to be doing well right now.

I am even able to smoke again (unbelievably) without any urge to binge, but decided I don’t want to anyway. What’s the point when I feel this well? Had a bad night of sleep last night or I would say zero smoking period. Could also be related to no longer being on my muscle relaxant as of yesterday. Will smoke at sleep time and try my luck tonight. I’m general I respond well to the smoking now that it doesn’t make me binge, but if I wake up in the middle of the night, or get slightly paranoid after the smoke, it can be a problem. In general sleep has been excellent since I went on this med. Gonna try cutting caffeine a little earlier too

8/11

ng chins 3x8

bw: 163.5 (down from 165+ a week ago)

went super easy on these. going to start integrating these more regularly unless climbing volume prevents it. Finger is still pretty infected. Hoping for a tuesday climb at this point.

Having some sleep issues and having to increase dosage on some meds for sleep. Unfortunately the medical marijuana seems to make me feel paranoid if I have it at bed time so I think it's out. I took the muscle relaxant again last night and that might be the only reason I slept well, but it's not supposed to be a long term med. A little worried my dose on this new stimulant might be too high. I got *way* too fixated on that crimp V6 last session, like could not pull myself away from it and was just throwing myself at the crux foot move over and over without enough rest or any consideration for my skin or recovery, or enough thoughtfulness about what I was going to change to make the move happen. Not a good way to spend my climbing energy. We shall see.

Finger infection still isn't great. Might need antibiotics. Will call doctor tomorrow, as well as psych about my sleep, and hope to climb tuesday

8/14

NG Chins 1x6 (power) 1x12


Finger infection is still messed up. Antibiotics run out in a couple days. There’s a lesson here somewhere.

I think the issue was not quitting when I got the tear and also not caring for it quite as well as I could have. This is a weird problem. New for me

Hoping to climb again early next week

BW is back down to 160!

8/20

Off antibiotics and finally back. Still feeling sick but I’m sure it’s just a matter of time. Finger still hurts to press on tip but isn’t infected. Bled a little by the end of this session. Diet continues to go well in terms of calories. Still not totally sure what to aim for but seems to be going fine with around 2000 on off days and 2500 on training days (though today was my first in a while). Could definitely push the off days to as low as 1700-1800 and training days to 2300 as long as I do refeeds. Had a nice hunger based 3k+ refeeds like a few days ago.

Making a big push to getting back to being more active. My conditioning is ****.Some physical therapy starts in Sept but I'm gonna keep climbing and also do some gym PT work and walking.

Climb 3:15

Totally avoided pinches for finger, and mostly crimps. Flashed some 3’s, a new pocket 4 and a 5 and 6, the last two my friend and I both downgraded. Tried a new 7 that seemed very possible and fell but later got beta. Tried a crimp 7 that was simple through the first half and then seemed impossible for me

Next session going to try to burn through the rest of the 4’s in the gym and then see what I can do on a few new 5’s

Going to improve beta and efficiency and do repeats on this 5:







Lost on this purple crimp route. If I keep the left foot on I get stuck (though could possibly move right foot left from this position). Can also use the gray volume as an undercling. Doesn't help that the wall is slightly overhanging and the gaston has only one good spot. The high left foot beta and match on gaston seems bad but not sure what other options there are. I think I can get better body position to pull + push with my right foot and get the left foot up, but then matching on the gaston and moving to the final hold seems very difficult. I guess it has to be since the rest of the route is only V5 up to that point.

Good to have ya back climbing!

On the 7, can you figure out a way to go left hand again?

Feels good man!

Left hand where? Like to match on the Gaston or to the Gaston before right hand? Because I can only match if I could get left foot up (or maybe if I never put right foot up) and I can go left hand bump from the left hand hold to the Gaston with right hand on that undercling but couldn’t move from there

One idea I had is to get to the Gaston and lean right hip to wall to match and bump right hand to the finish. The hold is really bad if you’re high up on it and straight on (like if I managed to get that left foot up) but wouldn’t be so bad if I had opposition on it. I could also definitely go for it before putting the right foot on that high chip. Might be possible to do the left hand bump and then match and lean right too but unsure of feet. There’s also a foot chip I could closed crimp instead of the undercling

No right hand, just lank beta the left again and bypass the right Gaston. Holds look pretty dang good for a 7 in all honesty. Your feet could be too high for the left but it looks like between the hand holds and foot chips you could find a way to bump the left.

Yeah only the Gaston is bad, and only bad depending on body position and if you’re matching. The final hold is quite bad. The rest of the Crimps are quite usable. I don’t think the portion up to the top is harder than V5 but the moves get really tough approaching the finish

I’m thick today, not sure what the bolded means. You’re saying bump the left to the Gaston with right hand still on the undercling? And what would my foot position be?

Yea right hand on the low side pull (or undercling looks more like a side pull) and a foot on the right hand start if it’s steppable. Then just a reachy bump with the left hand to what should be a good hold for the left vs using it as a Gaston for the right.

Thanks I shall try this. Definitely seems possible though not sure if I will be able to move from that position once I get there. I’d have to put the right foot up next and then I don’t think right hand can really reach the finish hold because the left will be too low and the left hand support on that hold won’t be good enough to allow me to cut left and stand on right on the chip. Maybe right hand should bump to the other chip or volume before the right foot move to the chip (or after) and then stand on right foot and right hand to finish hold. If I made this move I could actually put right foot on the side pull crimp instead of the chip further right

It’s easy for me to get to this part of the climb though so I will definitely give it a shot

It’s not as good a hold as it looks especially if the left isn’t supported. We shall see

I have one other idea. In the video where I try to get my left foot up, I press off right foot/turn right hip in to put left foot up, then lean right in opposition to the Gaston and match on it and bump right hand to the finish

Nice work on the V5! You had good tension on the big move up with your left hand.

At around 15-16 seconds into the the first video on the purple V7. I read that as a bumping your left hand as well. I think putting your right foot on the hold is lifting your hips off the left foothold, which you need to be driving hard off of to cross. Can you smear on the wall or just flag hard with the right leg to create the proper tension for the left hand bump? You can use the inside of your foot pressing against the wall as a counter balance on flagging moves to provide extra stability. This may be an opportunity to do just that. It is certainly a useful skill to pick up even if it isn't applicable here.

MacLeod talks about that in this blog: http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot....e-classes.html

Here is the relevant quote:

Thanks this should work great.

My concern now is once I make the left hand bump move and put right foot up, how in the world am I going to reach the finish hold? May have to move right hand first but even so, not sure I can stand on right foot on that chip with left hand on that relatively shitty gaston and right hand where it is. Perhaps I can bump right hand to the volume, or chip, or to match on the gaston, and put right foot on the hold right hand was on, instead of on the chip on the right wall. Would be centered enough under the gaston then to reach the finish hold with right hand and then move feet.

Still wondering if it might be possible to match on the gaston after the left hand bump and then turn right hip to wall to get opposition for the right hand bump to finish hold.

Will give it a shot

That hold out to the right is part of the problem isn’t it? If your feet are in a good spot to make the left bump I don’t see getting out to that being an issue at all.