12/8

BW: 188.0 (-14.0)

Weight loss is speeding up

On a 3 day break from climbing again. Will go for a hard performance session Tuesday and finally hit the PT gym again after

<20 pounds more to go

12/8

Pull-ups 1x5 1x10

One arm lockoff 3x5 sec left hand holding bicep

Not sure if my right front delts is ready for the lockoff. Had a little pain. Will wait till I’m lighter I guess. I wonder if I’m strong enough for those if I just lose fat.. starting to doubt it’s as little a difference as 10% but who knows

12/12

Climbing 2:00

Hit the back of my hand lunging on a V2 overhanging climb early in the session and ended up bleeding in 4 places. Kind of killed my sessions momentum. Climbed a new V3 in 4-5 attempts and made some progress on new V4 and V5 routes. Tried to finish off a V5 project at the end of the session but between all the tape and sub par energy I didn’t have it in me

Very bad nights sleep before this


BW: 185.25

12/14

Climbing 2:30

Low key session. Flashed an overhanging V3 and fell on a bunch of easier stuff after that

Teres area was fine but scapula hurt to retract part way into the session. Did a few more climbs I regret and quit

No New Tears at least

Have finals next week so unless I’m 100% before Thursday I’m gonna take a longer break. I’ve been needing it for a while now. If my scapula gets totally better I’ll climb sooner but otherwise gonna be safe and just get lighter and healthier

I want to add Greg flashed 3 V5 and a V6 and sent a V7 crimp climb the comp kids were falling on all in like 45 minutes. Was pretty remarkable, especially considering he weighs 170 (and in his own words should be 155) yet is climbing harder than ever

My V3 flash felt pretty sweet considering how beat up I was this session plus the overhanging element and lots of dynamic moves

12/21

took a week off for finals. Just catching up on sleep now

bw: 183.25

climbing 2:15

Found a way to do a hard overhanging V2 statically that made it easier. Sent two new V3 taking one fall. Tried a new V5 but fell on the crux move a few times. Should be able to get this one. Tried a new 6 with compression elements but couldn't figure it out

Spent the last hour working on a new sloper V6 that starts in a heavy overhang in a mini cave and finishes on a slight overhang. Could not string two moves together at first but by the end of the session had sent the last 60% of the route and done every move. Will be able to link this eventually but will probably need to work the first part of the route a lot more. Was very happy with my progress on this climb, figured out all the beta and found ways to do every move. One of the most rewarding climbs I've worked on. Will see how strong I am Sunday and either dedicate a little time to workout the start and go from there or just focus on this climb entirely after warming up.

So many new V2-4 routes I need to try. Felt great in today's session and took no tears. Would really like to be able to climb again on Sunday but may have to hold off till Monday. 3x/week is a big goal but I'm still not 100% with my shoulders and need to be careful

12/23

Bouldering 1:15

Last chance to boulder before Weds so I took it even though my forearms and right scalp were pretty sore. Went to Dedham to avoid traffic and flashed all the V2 plus climbed two V3 then pumped out on a 3 and called it a session.

Hoping for a max effort day Weds if my body is up to it

Last session was interesting. I’ve never felt so strong in this gym on V2 which are usually 2+ or V3. Was disappointed there was one 2/3 in the cave I fell on a few times before moving on. Still occasionally going back to this gym to climb horrible awkward boulders may be a good idea. There’s very little chance I could flash a 4 in this gym right now

Probably the main thing I noticed compared to my past history in this gym was hoe much easier the overhanging walls felt. Really starting to like overhangs. Very much looking forward to trying the new overhanging routes in Warwick on the high wall, as well as working my 6 which I think starts in a 60 degree overhang

Was planning on top roping but very few of the routes had been reset. Wouldn’t mind trying to flash some new 5.10 here eventually

Would like to hit <180 by the time school starts 3rd week of January

Climbing 12/26

Went to CT for a moderate intensity session with my old friend and former coach Greg.

Sent some V2 in the 60 and 45 degree overhang. Tried a few moves on a couple V7 for fun. Did most of a slab V5 but decided I didn’t care to work on it and put it together. Tried a V5 in the 45 degree overhang and got it in 4 attempts! Fell on a few routes after this and then sent a crimp V4+ and called it a session.

More unexpected than the V5 send end, is that I stuck the crux move the first time I tried it and Greg actually fell on it, which makes the first time I’ve ever done a move and he’s fallen. This is by far my hardest route on a heavy overhang that I’ve done. Greg sent it after and confirmed the grade. At the same time it’s absolutely stupid how much harder my V6 project that starts on the 60 degree is. Starting to think that route could be a 6+ or 7-. It seems clearly harder than the other sloper V6 I sent a few weeks ago.

Despite the length went pretty low volume here as it was late and I had a bad nights sleep. No tears either. Will be able to climb again whenever I want: no soreness at all the following day

Starting to realize that nearly all of my falls recently have been due to beta or technique/body position rather than strength. Or sometimes not committing or staying intense and other technical errors. At the same time my hanging strength feels pretty poor. I think once I make my weight goals I will look into a little coaching to try to shore up my many technical errors.

Climb 12/28 2:45

Flashed some new 2’s and two V3. Got a new sloper/crimp V5 in 2 attempts. This was perfectly my style and felt pretty easy

Worked on my cave sloper 6 but struggled with here for the first 3-4 move sequence and decided to change beta for next session. Sent it again from the crux

Worked on a new sloper V6 with a massive Gaston and came close to sending it. Unfortunately took some tears on my hands from all the open handed climbing and also got a huge blister on one of my finger tips.

Hoping skin will be manageable by Monday

Have never felt as strong as I did today. Still I can get so so much stronger. Moreso my skills are lagging behind my strength at this point.

I’ve decided not to do any more hangboarding and just focus on climbing and improving my skills. I’ll worry about hanging when I plateau

new mission: climb everything V3-5 in this gym. And my two V6 projects.

I keep my calluses manageable by using nail clippers on the big ones and one of those as-seen-on-TV personal manicure thingies to smooth it all down. Basically a spinning pumice stone.

I should definitely get that pumice stone

I’m having less trouble right now with big callouses and more with softer skin tearing. For whatever reason I had way more callouses when I did barbell training. Maybe cuz they tear when I climb and just don’t develop

This blister is a ***** though. If it doesn’t go I’m gonna have to drain it I guess

12/31

Climb 1:50

Was sore but went for it anyway. Couldn’t work on my sloper V6 project because of the Gaston move. Warmed up and tried a newly set V6 problem on the flat wall/corner area and sent it in about 20 minutes. First time I’ve ever set a 6 in one session. I also re climbed it 3x and redid an old 5; then briefly worked on a new V4 I made a beta error on and called it quits




My recent progress has been beyond any expectations. I don’t expect to get new V6 every session, but I do think I can get the sloper 6 my next session and then start working the cave one again. There’s also a ton of V3-5 I haven’t climbed in this gym that I can start working on

Looking skinny, bro. Welcome to the dark side.

I was bloated 4 pounds today and it didn’t matter. Before that I was at 182.5. Judging by body fat estimates I have 15+ more to go to reasonable levels. So yeah I’m about to be skinny as **** bro

Maybe that’ll allow you to climb on a negative angle wall

Hey my other project is a 6 in the cave. Unfortunately the cave portion is the section I can't link... hmmmm

I also totally climbed a slightly overhanging V2 AND did it statically the other day. Pretty sure half the gym was watching

1/2

Climb 2:15

Not happy with this session. Worked some newly set slab routes but didn’t climb to the best of my ability and spent time on a route that’s above my level. Should have just warmed up on the mid level stuff and went to my projects.

flashed two V3/4 problems at the start of session. Went to my sloper 6 at the end and fell on a foot move several times. Hit the move once but slapped the final sloper on the next move and fell. Tried a crimp 5 and hit the first crux move but then was stuck. Will have to figure out beta for this one

Been getting in better volume than normal since my week long break. Will probably need a couple days off after this one.

Had a suboptimal 5 days of diet. Calories were 2300 (climbing day), 1900, 3000, 2600 (climbing day), 2000 and weight spiked 3.5 pounds (4 pounds at first)

Should be back to a new low in another 4-5 days but still annoyed at myself over this, primarily the 3k day

Resolutions:

-Lose at least 15 pounds from recent low (182.5). Goal: 167.5
-Improving my climbing skill and physical strength in all aspects
-Stop slipping up with overeating
-Make diet healthier
-Do everything I can to avoid injury
-Start doing PT again regularly
-Start hanging when my shoulders are 100%
-Continue minimal medical marijuana use for sleep and don’t let it impact diet ever

And a bunch of personal resolutions such as finishing school with A’s

1/5

climb 2:45

Better session. Got a little pumped in my warmup which slowed me down. Re climbed the green V6 from last time and determined it was not a 6 for me, just too easy with my height and the beta I used.

Sent a slab V4 in 2 tries. Worked on a 5 but struggled with a crunchy move. Did not do my sloper 6 due to left shoulder not being great.

Tried a new 7 with a slightly slabby portion and it was totally perfect. Spent over half the session on this. Route starts with terrible slopers and moves to a crimp traverse then finishes with a nightmare crux. I had trouble with 4th move and worked from that point on for a while and was able to make it to crux by the end of the session but couldn't make my beta work. Got new beta I haven't tried yet. Dry fired really bad when my foot slipped and had to stop

This route seems perfect to project since working these nightmare crimps will be a good strength builder regardless of whether I send. It's also clearly a 7 which means something to me for some reason

Pic of the Purple Slab 7 with all holds. I’ve circled the holds I’m on before the crux (big left hand move) and the top two crimps. I haven’t tried it but supposedly right foot should step on the hold above the yellow volume to make the left hand move possible

https://imgur.com/a/xptLqJU

Crimps are the worst I have worked with as are the first two slopers.

Start sequence may tweak by switching the heel is right hand on sloper, left hand Gaston on crimp, left foot on chip right touching wall, then big left hand move to next horrible sloper, right heel hook matching right hand on starting sloper, right hand over the top to first crimp, then left foot up to volume, break right heel hook and switch left and right foot, then left hand to next crimp. It’s the move breaking the heel hook I’ve had trouble with

Alternate beta I’ve seen used: heel hook the left hand starting hold instead of the right hand starting sloper, right hand up and over to first crimp, and make left hand move to next crimp while heel hook is still on

After I get both hands on crimps I straddle between the volume and first chip on far left and core tension/bump and foot swap my way to the crux.

I’m sure I can nail the start but the crux moves are pretty nightmarish because I can’t see a way to do them statically and the crimps I’m moving to are pretty awful

One of the better climbers in the gym who I saw working a 9 spoiled his flash attempt slipping with high foot finish beta on final move.

I guess if I could figure out beta and come close to the crux in one session it wouldn’t be a 7 anyway

This plus the other V6 should make excellent projects. If I make it through one of those two I can start working the cave start 6 and perhaps try tearing through more 4’s and figuring out new 5’s

1/8/19

Climbing 2:30

Warmed up and tried a V4 overhanging climb but flailed. Moved to my V6 sloper project and sent it quickly. Video below. This felt like my 2nd hardest Boulder next to the blue sloper problem which felt considerably harder.

Worked on the 7 and sent it up to the crux by heel hooking the start crimp, but got two tears and stopped being strong enough to work the crux and quit. My current beta involves the most nightmarish foot move I’ve ever done where it feels like 70% of my weight is going on a miserable crimp. I’m gonna try sacrificing making the left hand move statically and change my foot beta to avoid this move

Would love to climb again in 2 days but skin might need an extra day. Could always PT

1/10

Momentum 1 hour

Found my left shoulder is a little more hurt than I realized. Decline TRX row was too much for my left shoulder and I felt pain in the 2nd set on lockoff and quit. Elevated pushups also just didnt feel right as far as my upper back. I have a lot of other movements I can do now so I will avoid these

Other physical therapy type movements were fine. Will continue these at home and then start adding weight in the near future

Eventually will get to some weighted pull-ups in these sessions

finished up with a one arm lockoff on right, 3x2-3 seconds (around 1 second holding the position above 90 degrees and 2 seconds to lower). Never been able to do this before

A little worried the TRX row made my shoulder worse. Hope it doesn't effect me when I climb in 2 days...will have to warm up with cable row next time and try the super easy version of the TRX standing up

something I've noticed watching videos: I adjust my grip way too much when it should be set already. I also am tapping my foot sometimes to get a good position on the hold, which has lead to at least one slip on a 5 i would have sent, as well as being super inefficient

Basically I need to be more confident

would love to climb today but gonna foam roll and nurse my skin and see if I can get the shoulder healthy enough to get in a high performance session tomorrow. Disappointed I couldn't handle the TRX decline rows

Next momentum session I'll avoid pushups and start with the cable rows and move on to cable OHP and a much easier variation of the TRX row to see if I can get that deep lockoff without shoulder pain

Was super happy with yesterdays right arm lockoffs. I also did 3x1 one arm pull-ups with the other hand on bicep and was getting a full lockoff. Losing another 10% of my weight plus starting pulling training again might get me to a OAC one day after all. I'm pretty sure losing another 18 pounds plus improving max pulling strength 10% would more than do it.

Still a more realistic short term goal is to strengthen the right arm lockoff above 90 degrees and try to get it to 3+ seconds, plus gain more control over the eccentric

OT but I'm shocked how easy the sloper 6 above looked when every move was so hard. That one I'm sure is a 6 but I'm pretty sure the green route further up was like V4 for me with my height and beta. Perhaps V5/6 for other climbers. There were a couple moves that put a ton of weight on one hand but I was in meathook grips where I feel pretty strong so these weren't maximal at all. Honestly an overhanging V3 would be harder for me. My understanding now is that this stuff is about the personal challenge to oneself that each climb presents, so if a boulder is easy for me the number isn't really important, the point is that it wasn't a serious challenge and therefore climbing it wasn't that meaningful.

Along those lines there is an all sloper very slightly overhanging V9 I saw a few of the best climbers in the gym working on. I'm gonna start trying 1-2 moves on this as a strength training exercise. Seems many slopers are a strength for me now, so trying some of the hardest moves I've ever done on the worst slopers I can use could be a valuable experience