Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log - Page 28

Got to the climbing gym and immediately swapped the Shaman’s for the Scarpa Vapor V’s. They might break in and be a tiny loose but I just wasn’t ready for those Shamans.

Exercise 19

Easily my best session ever (all in the shoes?).

Finished one V5 project
Flashed a soft V5
Sent another V5 (color grade higher that I’ve never done before)
Flashed a V4
Worked on my other V5 project and made good progress

Finished with some ab work.

Spent about 3 hours in the gym but really took my time between tried. Found some cool people to climb with too, that helped a lot. Should be able to get the second project fresh next time. Awful spot to try and film but it’s a cool problem with an iron cross move so I want to get it on tape.

sick session bro

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02-01-2018 , 02:14 PM

#677

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Quote:

Originally Posted by ActionJeff

sick session bro

Thanks yo, might be up your way in March will let ya know.

1/31

Exercise 28

Climbing 2 hours

New set at sister gym went and failed a bunch of V5’s. Found a really fun cut loose problem that I’ll get eventually for sure.

2/1

Ez run 5.21km in 28:19 (5:26/km) had to stop a couple times due to stomach issues. Plan for February is to put in 14 runs, bulk of which will be easy jogs with a few hill workouts in there. Goal is to be around 80-100km for the month.

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02-01-2018 , 10:20 PM

#678

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Signed up for the annual campus competition at my gym in 3 weeks. Put myself in the intermediate category. Time to work on my pulling explosiveness the next three weeks lol.

Exercise 29

Paused incline bench
5x125
5x135
3x140 fml

5 rounds
Paused incline bench 6x115
Weighted chin single (held negative for 10s) BW+65

Chest flys 4 sets

Called it shoulder wasn’t loving this session.

Quote

02-03-2018 , 01:11 AM

#679

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Exercise 30

Climbing gym 3 hours

3x9xBw chins 75s rest

Did a bunch of campusing on V0-V3 grades and then did a handful of 20 move circuits and some other form work.

Sent a few new fresh V3/V4ish graded problems including three flashes.

Sent this V5 dyno after figuring out it was a pogo move to get there. Good session. Projected a higher color grade than I’ve ever done but had my old shoes on and it required a super aggressive heel hook and my shoe was coming off lol.

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02-03-2018 , 02:05 AM

#680

loco

The First Golden

Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 14,846

Shiet I can do that.

I saw some people doing this on the mountains at red Rock (I was on hike). It looked dangerous as fack.

So indoors is a safe way to do the same thing (the floor is padded)? But then you get good enough you go to real mountains and die?

Not sure how this works but obviously I am very interested and want to look at death numbers for real rock climbers.

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02-03-2018 , 10:21 AM

#681

nuclear500

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 10,516

Probably....but don't be surprised if you get humbled hardcore the first time you climb.

No amount of weight training prepares you for climbing.

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02-03-2018 , 07:46 PM

#682

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

You could no doubt hit the dyno, more of a parlor trick than anything. Although didn’t see many people shorter than me get there.

Hit me up when you’re back in Texas, we’ll go climbing.

Quote

02-03-2018 , 07:50 PM

#683

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Throat started aching last night, bleh. Woke me up after only 5 hours of sleep too.

Figure I’ll just keep at it until this turns into a full blown cold. Luckily today was an easier day.

Exercise 31

Press (2min rest)
10x85
10x85
9x85
6x85
6x85

Just incredible endurance.

Standing DB press 5 sets

4 rounds
BTN BB Press
Rear delt flys

4 rounds
Skull crushers
Side raises

Tricep rope pushdown 3 sets

Ez run
6.51km in 32:30 (5:00/km)

Wanted to up the pace later in the run to see how I’d feel. Did the 5th km in 4:40 felt super comfortable so that’s good. No leg pain as well.

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02-04-2018 , 05:29 PM

#684

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Exercise 32

Climbing gym 2.5 hours

Fuuuuuuck yea sent my one last project. The orange V5 I posted before with the feet cutting loose on the crux. Did it first go today. Love the feeling of completing a project, such a nice rush.

Worked on the weird V6 but it’s just too tough.

Campused some routes including about a 12 move V2 on an overhang.

Then did other campus board and ab work and called it.

Need to do an ez run then crush about 4,000 calories of nachos and ice cream.

Quote

02-04-2018 , 07:29 PM

#685

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Ez run

7.67km in 41:20 (5:23/km)

Whatever, time to crush all the food.

Quote

02-07-2018 , 12:11 AM

#686

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

2/5

Exercise 33

Incline DB bench up to 7x60s
Flat BB bench 5x10x115 2min rest
4 sets cable flys
4 sets pec deck

2/6

Exercise 34

Climbing gym 2.5 hours

Sent three new V4-V5 problems including one I posted about last Wednesday. I’d call this a V5 it’s super power oriented saw a ton of decent climbers not get it. Other two problems were quite small holds for me and I was pleased to get them. I’d call one a weak V5 and the other a weak V4. Projected a cool overhanging V5 I can probably get next time.

Here’s the route mentioned above.

Abs to finish.

Quote

02-07-2018 , 01:58 AM

#687

TooCuriousso1

Golden 2017

Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 6,711

Noice, good movement. Usually looks easier on video but that looked challenging and like a 5 to me from here.

Quote

02-07-2018 , 02:09 AM

#688

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Quote:

Originally Posted by TooCuriousso1

Noice, good movement. Usually looks easier on video but that looked challenging and like a 5 to me from here.

I question myself because your outdoor V7’s look 10x harder.

Quote

02-07-2018 , 11:01 PM

#689

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Exercise 35

Press
4x5x105
7x105

Incline bench 3x8x115
DB seated prsss 3x8x40s
Side raises 4 sets

Got no sleep last night and long day at work so subbed easier day today and will do back and DLs tomorrow.

Quote

02-08-2018 , 10:51 PM

#690

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Ez run
7.88km in 42:18 (5:22/km)

Exercise 36
DL
5x215 conventional
5x215 sumo
5x195 sumo

3-position lock offs (frenchies without 2nd/3rd pull up)
5x1xBW+40

Called it, tried to do this all together that was a bad idea.

Quote

02-10-2018 , 03:55 AM

#691

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Ez run

5.35km in 30:00 (5:36/km)

Yikes left shin didn’t like that at all. Same spot as before. Weather will force me to take next couple days off fortunately.

Exercise 37

Climbing gym 3 hours

Nothing really of note. Started a couple V6 projects but they’ve been on the wall for some time. May not get to try them much longer.

Took a nasty fall on a weird slab route and hit my back on a volume. Luckily I’m unscathed...I think. Will try to do some campus boarding on Sunday. Really need to get back to volume chins too.

Quote

02-10-2018 , 05:48 PM

#692

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Exercise 38

Incline DB bench
12x40s
10x50s
9x60s
5x65s

5 rounds
Cable rope crunch
Flat BB bench 8x125

4 rounds
Leg raises
Cable incline bench flys

4 rounds
Mountain climbers
Standing DB press

Quote

02-11-2018 , 07:54 PM

#693

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Exercise 39

Climbing gym 4 hours

Chins 5x10 2min rest
Climb all V1’s in gym (20)
Campus half dozen routes
20 move circuits x2
Climb all V2’s in gym (16)
Climb most V3’s (10ish) then friend showed up

Climbed a few V4-V5 grades and messed around on others.

Was gonna do actual campus board work but bailed because I suck.

Quote

02-12-2018 , 05:55 PM

#694

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Exercise 40

Press 2:30 rest
4x8x95

Incline Bench 90s rest
10x105
10x105
8x105
7x105
6x105

Rear delt flys 4 sets
Scare crows 4 sets
Side raises 4 sets

Turning Monday into a light day overall right now. Works well since Sunday has become volume climbing plus running. Think my press is improving slightly which is all I can ask for at this point without bulking.

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02-14-2018 , 02:13 AM

#695

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Exercise 41

Climbing gym 2.5 hours

3 rounds with 90s rest
Chins 8xBW
Leg raises

3 rounds with 90s rest
Frenchie on hangboard
Ring mountain climbers

3 rounds
Ring lock offs 8sec x3
V ups

Climbed nothing harder than V2 did footwork drills. Worked on system board a bit but problems are set above my ability on the 45er. There’s one 15 move problem set I could probably project once a week for a month and maybe get. I’m sure it would make me a much better climber to get it.

Finished with some one arm assisted lock off practice. Got a long way to go for a 1arm chin that’s for sure.

Quote

02-14-2018 , 09:39 PM

#696

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Exercise 42

DL
5x220 conventional
5x220 sumo
5x200 sumo

3 rounds
BB rows underhand
Overhand PVC bar squats

3 rounds
BB rows overhand
Pistols (assisted)

3 rounds
1arm DB rows
Face pulls

Curls
4 sets

Quote

02-15-2018 , 10:53 PM

#697

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Tried to do an ez run this morning. Left shin didn’t feel great, decided to jog back after about 800m. Boss called me anyways so would have had to call run short but still disconcerting. Feel like it’s gotta be heel striking causing the issue need to really focus on drills and form. Might take another week just to give the leg more rest. Plus lol cardio.

Exercise 43

Incline bench
5x130
5x140
6x135
6x130

DB incline bench 5x10x45s

Cable flys 4 sets
Pec dec 4 sets

Quote

02-17-2018 , 02:46 AM

#698

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Exercise 44

Climbing gym 5 hours

Worked on two v6’s a bunch. At the worst trying tougher moves like these should speed up my V4-V5 progression.

Managed to bang this **** out of my knee on a V7 I keep ****ing around on for some reason. Scared me for a minute but turned out ok.

Got to climb with some people a couple grades better than me which always helps. Got a long way to go on small holds.

Finished with V1 campusing and then abs.

Gonna try to run tomorrow if the weather cooperates.

Quote

02-17-2018 , 07:18 PM

#699

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Fartlek style run

5.02km in 25:23 (5:03/km)

Splits
5:27
4:45
5:19
4:41
5:07

Leg felt fine. Wanted to see how 4:45 felt on the faster 1k’s. Felt like slightly easier than tempo run effort which is ok I guess seeing how I’ve basically taken 7 weeks off.

Exercise 45

Press 5x5x110
Incline bench 4x9x115

3 rounds
DB press
Side raises
Bent over raises

3 rounds
BTN Press
Rear delt flys

Triceps 3 sets

Quote

02-18-2018 , 10:32 PM

#700

Spenda

Carpal \'Tunnel

Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 15,314

Resisted the urge to run today. Going to make sure I don’t do any back to back days until I can go a couple weeks without shin pain.

Exercise 46

Climbing gym 3 hours

3 rounds
Pull ups x8
V-ups

3 rounds
Frenchie doubles
Ring mountain climbers

3 rounds
Assisted one arm lock offs
Leg raises

Then did the following
1min traversing x4
Body tension drills x6
Peter pans x6

Climbed a bunch after that but was pretty wiped. Figured out the finish/crux on a V5 but couldn’t send from the start.

Set myself a crazy aggressive goal of a 1arm chin by end of May. That’s 15 weeks away but I wanted something ridiculous to go after then never 3+ months.

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