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Old 05-16-2017, 11:46 PM   #301
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Exercise 123

Bouldering 2 hours

In my regular gym there are about 16 total sections that have routes from V0-V9 so I decided to go to each section and do a cycle of V1, V2, and V3. Moving to the next when done.

I flashed my first 4 cycles which was sweet. Some of the V3's were repeats but still nice. Finally failed on a V2 but picked up the beta from someone I struck up a conversation with and climbed with most of the night. He was hitting V5's so it was cool to watch and I learned a couple things footwork wise.

Overall I'm at a point where I can flash most V2's if I take a minute to plan my route. V3's I'd say I'm 50/50 to complete over a session. I can tell pretty quickly if the problem is doable.
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:53 AM   #302
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

In Houston for a few days. Staying at a nice marriot marquis, the gym is unreal as far as hotel gyms go

Exercise 124

Pull-ups 3x8xBW

SS1 3 sets
Horizontal rows
Rope pull downs

SS2 3 sets
One arm DB rows 8x75
Lat pulldowns

SS3 3 sets
Cable delt flys
DB shrugs

Ab and bicep work
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:37 AM   #303
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Exercise 125

Press
7x100
10x75
10x75
10x75

Front raises 3 sets

Incline bench 3x10x95

SS 3 sets
Side raises
BTN press

Tricep push downs 4 sets

This workout felt better on my elbow than yesterday's back workout. So I guess I have no clue what's really aggravating it.
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Old 05-20-2017, 08:04 PM   #304
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

2.52 mile run in 21:00 (8:19 pace)

Exercise 126

Bouldering 3 hours

Started the session flashing all the V1's in the gym, 18 total.

From there just worked around the gym hitting random V2's and V3's.

Hit my first V3+/V4- today. Sadly recorded myself missing it 6x and when I actually sent it I wasn't filming.
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Old 05-21-2017, 10:55 AM   #305
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Woke up super early to go play golf. Lightning storm on the way there so scrapped it and worked out instead. A lot of factors led to this being a ****ty workout but happy I got it in nonetheless.

Bench
4x155
8x140
10x125
8x115

Cable flys 4 sets
DB bench 3 sets

SS 3 sets
Cable flys
Incline push-ups
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Old 05-21-2017, 11:19 AM   #306
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

How does moving up to 8 reps for pullups feel?

I'm about to restart them treading in the 5-6 rep range, gonna kind of do what you did and attack volume before intensity.

18 V1's is a lot of ****ing climbing!
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Old 05-21-2017, 06:05 PM   #307
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

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How does moving up to 8 reps for pullups feel?

I'm about to restart them treading in the 5-6 rep range, gonna kind of do what you did and attack volume before intensity.

18 V1's is a lot of ****ing climbing!
8 reps seems ok, doing them more for hypertrophy than climbing. For climbing doing heavier weighted chins might be better? I haven't done weighted chins in forever. Probably need to but I think that's what was bothering my elbows. I stupidly joined in on a pointless exercise yesterday, trying to campus a V1's with some guys I always bump into at my home gym. Felt it in my left arm afterwards. Idiot.

18 sounds like a lot, takes me about 40 minutes. Then I have the rest of my session to work on some projects.

Tried climbing this afternoon and my elbows were not having it. Probably because my hands weren't fully recovered and thus I was climbing with bent arms to make up for it. Bad decision to go but I work up so early and was bored by noon. Managed to complete just one V2 and failed a couple V3's that were doable. After each attempt I was in serious pain.

More grip/finger work is needed just have to figure out how to fit it into programming.
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Old 05-22-2017, 06:29 AM   #308
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Ever considered rice bucket things (eg link)?
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Old 05-22-2017, 12:16 PM   #309
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

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Ever considered rice bucket things (eg link)?
Seattle Bouldering Project had them, saw a few people doing some work with them. I had heard of doing the rice buckets but that was the first time seeing it in a gym.

I need to figure out where to place work like this into my schedule. I also need to improve my finger/hand/forearm activity recovery protocols as I'm doing nothing right now.
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Old 05-22-2017, 05:30 PM   #310
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Exercise 128

DL
3x280 @9.5
8x230
8x230
8x230

Wiped out

BB rows 3x10x135

SS1 3 sets
DB rdls
DB shrugs

SS2 3 sets
Lat pulldowns
Leg curls
Read delt flys

Random shrug and curl work.

Main goal was 5x285 DL this "cycle". Clearly not happening but if I can muster 3x285 next week I'll consider that pretty good for me.
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Old 05-22-2017, 09:48 PM   #311
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spenda View Post
8 reps seems ok, doing them more for hypertrophy than climbing. For climbing doing heavier weighted chins might be better? I haven't done weighted chins in forever. Probably need to but I think that's what was bothering my elbows. I stupidly joined in on a pointless exercise yesterday, trying to campus a V1's with some guys I always bump into at my home gym. Felt it in my left arm afterwards. Idiot.

18 sounds like a lot, takes me about 40 minutes. Then I have the rest of my session to work on some projects.

Tried climbing this afternoon and my elbows were not having it. Probably because my hands weren't fully recovered and thus I was climbing with bent arms to make up for it. Bad decision to go but I work up so early and was bored by noon. Managed to complete just one V2 and failed a couple V3's that were doable. After each attempt I was in serious pain.

More grip/finger work is needed just have to figure out how to fit it into programming.
Weighted chins are probably better for climbing yeah. At least almost every one of the V12+ climbers I've heard on the Training Beta podcast do them. No one ever really talks about bw pullups being important.

That being said there's no way it can hurt to have a base of 15-20 pullups and these numbers are consistent with the strength to do a one arm chin
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Old 05-23-2017, 05:16 PM   #312
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Exercise 129

Press
7x105

SS1 3 sets
Press 12x75
Chins 5xBW+25

SS2 3 sets
Arnold press
Front raises

SS3 6 sets
Side raises
Reverse crunches

Random push up, plank, battle rope and dead hang work.
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Old 05-25-2017, 12:02 AM   #313
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Mile run 7:03

Exercise 130

Bouldering 2 hours

Sent two V3+/V4- problems plus a handful other V2/V3's. Of course when I was filming I choked, maybe I'll have decent video of me completing some problems soon.
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Old 05-26-2017, 04:35 PM   #314
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

5/26

Exercise 131

24:00 run 2.96 miles (8:06 pace)

5/27

Exercise 132

SS1 3 sets
Bench 9x135
Chins 9xBW

SS2 3 sets
Incline DB bench 10x40s
BB rows 10x135

SS3 3 sets
BTN press 10x55
Cable delt flys x10

SS4 4 sets
DB shrugs
DB curls
Rope push downs
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Old 05-27-2017, 09:12 PM   #315
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Ran a bunch of hills and stairs this morning. Two weeks until first obstacle race and my legs are nowhere near ready. Cardio capacity improving though.

Exercise 133

Bouldering 2.5 hours

Standard long Saturday session. Started out with all V1's in the gym. Flashed 17/18.

Then a bunch of random projects, sent ~12 different V2/V3 grades. Sent a couple on the brink of V4. I am definitely getting better but have to work so much more on foot placement and not regripping each hold.

At the end I practiced on some V1's making bigger more dynamic type moves. Definitely fun. Was able to send a new projects in just three moves that typically might take 8-10 when done the way the setter envisioned.
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Old 05-28-2017, 11:56 AM   #316
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Second straight Sunday I was supposed to play golf but got rained out.

Since I was at my club decided to do a push workout.

Been watching a lot of this guys videos lately, pretty good overall.

https://www.youtube.com/user/icecream4PRs

Used his last push workout as a base for today.

Exercise 134

DB bench (club gym only goes up to 50s and no barbells)
12x50s
12x50s
15x50s

Cable chest flys (hand position w/ palms facing down)
4x15 - definitely felt these in a different area not sure if I like them.

Cable bench 3x12

Standing Arnold press 3x12x25s

Cable side raises 3x12

SS1 3 sets
Rope pushdowns
DB side raises

SS2 3 sets
Overhead tricep extensions
Front raises
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Old 05-29-2017, 01:31 PM   #317
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Rough day, have a head cold and cannot shake it. Been five days now.

Cut this short because I want to go climbing later but have to see how I feel.

Exercise 135

DL
2x285 @9.5
8x235
8x235

Going to start some new DL programming in a couple weeks. Have a vacation then obstacle race so most likely mid June. Strength block I'm guessing with 300 as 1rm.

SS 3 sets
BB rows 15x135
DB RDLs

Leg curls 3 sets

Bodyweight was down to 154 today even though I'm averaging 3,000 calories a day lately. Waist 31" at its widest point.

Last edited by Spenda; 05-29-2017 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 05-29-2017, 08:48 PM   #318
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Exercise 136

Bouldering 2.5 hours

18 V1's warm up.

Bunch of V3ish problems, only got stuck on one.

I have almost sent all V2/V3 graded problems in my home gym. About 12 total. Think two remain and one is a slab so **** that. Set a tough V3 in our nearly horizontal overhang starting section.

I have also sent a couple of the V3/V4 problems and made good progress on 3 others. If I was fresh I'm convinced I'd be able to get through them.

Still miles away from the V5 types, they seem like they're on a whole other planet.

Overall happy with where I am and where I could be in a couple months. Going to set some lofty goals all around for my fitness by the end of July.
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Old 05-30-2017, 06:13 PM   #319
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Mile run 7:02

Exercise 137

SS1 3 sets
Bench 6x145
Chins 6xBW+20

SS2 3 sets
Cable flys
Lat pulldowns

SS3 3 sets
BTN press 10x65
Cable rear delt flys

Shrug/LatRaise/Curl circuit
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Old 05-31-2017, 10:00 AM   #320
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spenda View Post
Exercise 136

Bouldering 2.5 hours

18 V1's warm up.

Bunch of V3ish problems, only got stuck on one.

I have almost sent all V2/V3 graded problems in my home gym. About 12 total. Think two remain and one is a slab so **** that. Set a tough V3 in our nearly horizontal overhang starting section.

I have also sent a couple of the V3/V4 problems and made good progress on 3 others. If I was fresh I'm convinced I'd be able to get through them.

Still miles away from the V5 types, they seem like they're on a whole other planet.

Overall happy with where I am and where I could be in a couple months. Going to set some lofty goals all around for my fitness by the end of July.
How many V4 have you sent?

I'm still getting stuck on 3's and working through 2's. I haven't been beaten by a 2 yet but I have a few works in progress

V4 seems doable but a lot of them also are on another planet from the V2-3 I'm used to climbing. I just can't hold onto the slopers or whatever at that point.
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Old 06-01-2017, 12:25 AM   #321
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

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How many V4 have you sent?

I'm still getting stuck on 3's and working through 2's. I haven't been beaten by a 2 yet but I have a few works in progress

V4 seems doable but a lot of them also are on another planet from the V2-3 I'm used to climbing. I just can't hold onto the slopers or whatever at that point.
I can figure out the beta on most V3's OR power through somehow. Plenty of routes though I'm too fatigued to send then I'll day flash them the next time I'm in the gym.

I've sent a handful of borderline V4 routes. One true V4. One other I think is mis-graded and should be a V3.
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Old 06-01-2017, 02:47 PM   #322
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

28min run 8:28 mile pace

Exercise 138

Bouldering 2 hours. Mainly worked on V3/V4 graded problems. Whole different world in terms of how smoked I was by the end. Entire body is beat up.

Didn't land any V4's but sent plenty V3's. Progress is steady. Goal three months from now is to be flashing V4's and projecting/sending V5's consistently.
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Old 06-02-2017, 03:05 AM   #323
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

What's an elite V number?
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Old 06-02-2017, 11:48 AM   #324
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

The guys who win World Cups are climbing over V10.

ThInk the toughest indoor grade in videos I've ever seen is V11, outdoor is V14.

Most gyms will have VB/V0-V10. Best I've seen sent in my gym is V8.
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Old 06-02-2017, 08:13 PM   #325
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Re: Spenda's Totally Livin...with Colitis Log

As it was explained to me, most gyms have a guy who can climb V10. Which doesn't take away from the insanity of it.

I think V12 is probably elite. V10 is still super sick

Spenda, google Adam Ondra. There's a video of him climbing two V16. He also flashes a V14
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