Watching the V2-V6’s in those videos, not really sure what to think. Part of me believes a few appeared doable and others hell no.

Either way Chattanooga looks awesome and yea let’s get a little 2p2 climbing weekend going this winter.

That's just how it goes. I have boulders I want to do this season that will be hard for me, but hopefully doable, that range in grades from V2-V7.

I've done close to 70 V3s outside and got absolutely stuffed on one last season. It is a slabby crack/water groove that I tried on 3-4 different sessions and didn't get the send. My technique on that style of climbing clearly has massive holes in it!

Upper Day A

Underhand Weighted Chins 4x8xBW+25, 6xBW+25
--Slight progress over last week, left 1 in the tank on the 5th set, 8th rep of 4th set made me light-headed lol.

Incline DB Bench 4x8x55s
Overhand BB Rows 4x10

SS1 4 sets
Pec Dec
Neutral grip lat pulldowns

Seated Bent over DB side laterals 4 sets
Standing side raises 4 sets

Definitely the end of my 1st mesocycle. Between climbing and upping the volume weekly for the past 5 weeks I am wiped out. Sleeping 8+ hours a night, averaging over 3,000 calories a day, and I'm basically a big bag of lazy outside of the gym because I have no energy.

1-week deload plan is simple, take my last week of lifting and keep the weights the same but cut the volume in half. Only climb 3x max and 2hr max each session with nothing tougher than V3.

9/2 - 167p/395c/85f/32fiber = 3,013 calories

Quick weight update, here are my 10-day rolling BW and calorie averages for the past 30 days.

8/4-8/13 - 142.5lb/2,686kcal
8/14-8/23 - 142.55lb/2,835kcal
8/23 - 9/2 -143.25lb/3,011kcal

Average daily fat intake has gone from 55g/day to 71g/day. Jury still out if it's impacting anything in a positive way like hormones/libido/energy/digestion/etc...

So past 10 days I've added .7lbs, where ideal would be 1-1.2lb, but I think I have a better handle on the calories it will take to have me gaining ~4lb per 6 week training block. If I can be around 150 at Thanksgiving I'll be pleased.

9/3 - 166p/366/70f/22fiber = 2,758 calories

Climbing Gym - 2 hours - Endurance/Technique Day

Tried Cotton's suggestion of using bad feet and smearing on easier routes. First thing I figured out was I suck at planning out problems when they aren't the same color lol. I essentially found the hold set w/ the worst feet and used them on V1/V2 problems. I kept volumes on and smeared where I could.

Did this for 30 minutes, plan was to spend the next 60 on 2 different circuit boards but one was down because they were installing new mats.

Tried to do 6x20 moves with 5min rest but kept failing the last move, 5 straight times.

Went back down to the bouldering area and climbed some more, again doing my best to use the worst possible feet on easier problems.

Overall a good/easy session. Didn't hold onto a single crimp and left without my forearms/fingers screaming at me. Two more sessions of this nature this week should have me feeling good next week.

Oh yea signed up for my next comp, chose the V5-V8 category which I can hopefully do the 5 easiest boulders in. Last year I couldn’t do a single one in that range and also failed plenty of the top end boulders in the V3-V4 set. Think each one will have 15 boulders so that’ll be a good test. It’s in just under 3 weeks.

Also checked out some new shoes today, the Otaki felt super comfortable for a high end shoe but think I want something even more aggressive like the solution. Any input there is appreciated.

I have solutions and basically can't use them. I'm hoping by the time I break into V7 range I will have better footwork, because as is I consistently slip in them in spots I don't slip (as often) in my less aggressive shoes. I've had more success with Miura's at this point, and my current pair are moderately aggressive Scarpa's. You're higher level than me though, I'm sure you could get the hang of the solutions and make the most out of them

I climb projects in the Vapor V’s which might be the Scarpa’s you have. Otherwise I use a super soft La Sportiva I picked up for cheap during an REI sale.

Signed up for that comp on the 21st. There’s also one on the 22nd in Austin and my wave would climb in the afternoon. Debating back to back comp days, hmmmmm.

I have had two pair of LaSportiva Katina Laces. I think these are a great all around shoes. The only downside is the price and there isn't much rubber for toe hooking. I don't think this is a major issue unless you are climbing horizontal roofs and are bicycling a lot. Heel toe cams can also be a bit uncomfortable w/o rubber on top of the shoe, but that's a fairly minor detail.

I asked two strong boulders at the gym the other day and both recommended Solutions. I haven't owned any as of yet. I need a new pair of shoes for this upcoming season and may give them or the Skawamas a try. I generally try and buy shoes that are on sale, but the Solutions never seem to be both on sale and available in my size.

I do like having a few different shoes to choose from depending on what I am climbing. Having something that isn't very aggressive and soft is great for a place like HP 40 or on a slab, but isn't so great on a roof. Visa versa for the aggro shoes. Trying to friction smear your way up a slab in something aggro is no fun.

9/24 - 155p/407c/57f/29fiber = 2,761 calories

Lower Day A - Deload

KB Swings 2x10x32
Good mornings 2x10x50
Kneeling Cable Crunch 2x12
HBBS 3x8x155
Smith Machine Calf Raises 2x12
Hanging knee to bar 2x8

Whatever, deloads are interesting as very early in them you want to convince yourself you don't need them. It's why auto-regulating cannot always be the answer, as there are components of your physiology you cannot tell are over-reached/fatigued and need periods of lower volume.

Today I normally would have done 2hr power endurance climbing + squat volume, so it's a nice break. This had to be the least active day I've had in forever as I didn't get out on a long walk either.

Is your deload protocol just same weight/reps for everything but 50% as many sets?

Yessir that’s the plan

Yep those are the shoes I use. I climb more flat walls than anything, especially while I have this ab strain, so perhaps they are "better" than the solutions for the boulders I'm working on right now

Good luck competing man, I'm sure you'll have some sick sends

9/5 - 161p/418c/56f/30fiber = 2,820

Doing a good job of not letting the calories drop much during the deload week. Woke up at a *new* high of 145.0 this morning.

Upper Day A

Bench
6x150
10x135

BB Rows 2x10
Incline Bench 2x10
Wide grip chins 2x8
T-bar Rows 2x10
Facepulls 2x15
Seated bent over side raises 2x16
Hammer curls 2x10
Side raises 2x10

9/6 - 109p/301c/66f/17fiber = 2,234 calories

Life got in the way today, diet/training wise. Still managed to do ok but could have planned better and had a fairly normal day.

Climbing Gym - 2 hours

Got to mess around on the 45er a bit, but reminded myself to take it easy since that's the goal this week. Probably a good thing as I felt sluggish and just not all that into doing anything difficult. Three more days until I get to ratchet up the volume again, already looking forward to it.

I found me some beastmaker 10mm edges. Was able to hang 10 sec but was it and they are small! My gf who said her fingers weren't feeling great was able to hang 8sec... shes got the gift fingers wise.

Here's what 6mm looks like (8mm in the middle, 10 on top), idk 1/5th pad???

6mm is nuts. Are those even possible to half crimp, or can only be open crimped?

Your GF has the gift TX, very nice

I read an article recently stating that open handed crimp ability is significantly improved by having softer fingers with thinner skin that deforms more easily, hence women and children/younger people being advantaged. Apparently skin gets 5x thicker as one ages. Who’s have thought thin skin was good for climbing rocks? Lol

Past 48 hours have been a big bag of worthlessness. Went out Friday night, slept 12 hours, woke up either hungover or groggy due to all the sleep. Got through a deload leg day, but didn't climb then went to an A&M watch party and got my soul-crushed. Skipped my last deload workout today because in general I've just been very lethargic and constantly feel like I'm about to get sick. I have to be more careful than most because of the immune suppressant drugs I take to get my colitis in check.

Calories guesses last 3 days
9/7 - 3,000
9/8 - 3,500
9/9 - 3,200

So nothing crazy but if you realize I've generally just laid on a couch for the majority of this time it's definitely well in excess.

9/7 Upper Deload

Bench
5x155 (mis-grooved 4th rep)
11x135

BB Rows 2 sets
Seated DB Press 2 sets
Wide grip chins 2 sets
Pec Dec 2 sets
Seated Cable Row 2 sets
Side raises 2 sets
Bent over raises 2 sets

9/8 Lower Deload
Seated Leg Curls 2x12
HBBS 2x8x165
Smith Machine Calf Raises 2x10
Pull-throughs 2x12
Walking BB lunges 2x18x50

Even as shiity as I felt, the squats were super easy, amazing what not having the volume on the legs does.

9/10 - 144p/288c/49f/18fiber = 2,169 calories

Felt the most energetic/refreshed I've felt in a long while today. Got another good night's sleep (8+ hours straight through without waking up once) added to a full rest day so that's clearly a good combo.

Today starts my new mesocycle, I am in no rush to jump back into the volume I reached at the end of the last one, I'll be adding volume each week and ultimately will eclipse the previous cycle, but these first few weeks I need to build up slowly but surely.

Climbing Gym - 2 hours - Technique Session

Nothing really to note here, climbing a bunch of easy boulders focusing on foot placement and flow, climbed down them all as well. Brought my new harness but need to go through an orientation class and just never did it today. Might try to sneak out early tomorrow and get that done so I can start using the auto-belay for some circuit training.

9/11 - 131p/312c/64f/32fiber = 2,358 calories

Calories hanging low during this easy week. Mainly because life is getting in the way. This was even with a big burrito post team building activity today. Weather was nasty or might have had a beer but I hate drinking and driving.

Tuesday’s did the next 6 weeks will be interesting to navigate training and climbing wise. Today I just had time to lift.

Lower Day A
BB Good Mornings 3x12x45
HBBS 3x9x165
—Felt way off today, need to get better shoes for stability.
KB Swings 3x12x30lb
Hanging knee raises 3x8
Lying leg lifts 3x8

Wanted to sneak in some light hangboarding but had to jet to the event.

9/12 - 134p/290c/70f/12fiber = 2,318 calories

Made it to my 5pm workout at like ~500cal, this week been a bit of a **** show waking up early enough to eat breakfast at home and been slacking on meal prep and overnight oats.

Upper Day A
BB Rows 3x9x125
BB Bench 3x8x140
Wide Grip Chins 3x9xBW
Seated DB Press 8,8,7x45s
Seated Cable Rows 3x10x120
DB Side Raises 3x12
Straight Bar Curls 3x8x50
Bent over side raises 3x12
Seated DB Curls 3x8

Sick pump, bro.

9/13 - 122p/296c/65f/26fiber = 2,257 calories

Climbing Gym - 2.5 hours - Max Power Day

Completed my 20-move circuit project, needed a full blown drop move on move 20 to get the send!

Did a few boulders at or just below my limit, only sent 1 and fell off a climb I've done multiple times about 3x today.

Did campus training on the balls, really want to do the 1-3-5-7 and I almost hit it once, but man that's tough. Also had trouble with the 1-4 today so maybe just weak in general.

Finished with 20mm weighted hangboarding, 1-arm hangs and some assisted 1 arm chins.

Definitely gotta eat more, not recovering and I'm averaging like 2,300cal/day this week so no wonder why.

9/14 - 138p/335c/64f/15fiber = 2,468 calories

Upper Day B

Bench
8,8,6x140

Wide grip chins 3x9xbw

Bench
11,10,8x125

BB Rows 3x9x125
Seated DB Press 7,6,5x45s
Rear delt cable flys 3x
Side raises 3x
Cable crunch 3x
Seated bent over DB flys 3x
Straight bar curls 3x
EZ bar curls 3x

9/15 - 200p/493c/86f/33fiber = 3,546 calories

Woke up at 141.8, so gotta EAT.

Climbing Gym - Project Day - 3.5 hours

Put down one v5 project, failed the finish of another 6x or so. Nothing else of note, not really loving the new set at my home gym, but a few problems could be worth projecting.

Leg Day B

Seated hamstring curls 3x12
HBBS 3x9x165
Smith Machine Calf Raises 3x10
Cable Pull-Throughs 3x12
Walking BB Lunges 3x18x50

Overall good day of the old H&F, just gotta keep the calories up moving forward.

Woke up at 141.6 today, so last 3 days are 142.3, 141.8 and 141.6

Have to wonder if the weight I put on last cycle was just water/glycogen due to high carbs and workout volume at end of mesocycle. Either way just means calories need to stay way up.

Upper Day C

Underhand weighted chins 3x8xBW+25
--Had 2, maybe 3 in the tank on 1st set
Bench 3x8x140
BB Rows 3x9x125
Seated DB Press 8,8,7x45s
Neutral grip lat pulldowns 3x8
Side raises 3 sets
Rear delt cable flys 3 sets

Really want to go climb in a bit but have a small slice on my thumb and overall skin just kinda sucks. Have a climbing competition Friday and would like to get in some light technique work today as climbing the rest of the week could be tough due to work scheduling.

Here's my total workset volume for the week, goal is to ramp the volume throughout the mesocycle. For reference that's 114 working sets and end of last cycle I was at 151.

Abs 9
Back - Vertical 12
Back - Horizontal 12
Biceps 12
Triceps 0
Chest 12
Front Delts 9
Rear/Side Delts 21
Traps 0
Glutes 0
Hamstring 12
Quads 9
Calves 6