Im averaging like 1.25g/lb when the recommended minimum is probably like .8g/lb so I feel good about it.

Yea I think the 150-200 extra calories I could get back from lowering protein should probably go towards fats, curious from a time of day perspective when they might be best. If I do a high carb high fat meal late at night that might really help sleep and recovery. Right now my last meal has the following breakdown.

30p/72c/8f

I could add another tbsp of peanut butter to it for sure. Prob find a way to drop protein and add more carbs to it too.

I don't know the first thing about gaining weight, so forgive me if these are silly questions.

Let assume a person is consistently eating enough calories, getting adequate protein throughout the day for MPS and consuming enough carbs to replenish glycogen stores. Does the actual macro split matter that much beyond consistently doing the previous 3 things?

Like if you make sure get 1g/lb, eat enough carbs (I assume this isn't too hard when bulking?) can you just otherwise stuff your face with whatever as long as you are consistently hitting the proper caloric surplus?

Also, nice work on those hangs! I have been climbing a little over 3.5 years and I am not sure if I can hang the 10mm for 9s.

Perfect macro splits are fake, they don't do anything. You don't even need many carbs for glycogen replenishment (lol).

There is a minimum protein requirement and a minimum fat requirement. Note how in both of those there exist essential nutrients that the body cannot make on it's own. That's why they are important.

On the other hand, there is no such thing as an essential carbohydrate. They are useless. But they are cheap and some studies show better cognitive performance and well being (marginal at best).

So the point is, unless you are some kinda of super endurance athlete, they ain't gonna do shiet. And that includes spenda, unless he starts climbing 3+ hour sessions. There is actually a movement for marathon runners to low carb high fat and they are having success.

Carbs don't do shiet, but hey they are cheap and tasty so if you like them, go for it. But it's not like your body is going to make muscle if you give it slow acting legume carbs instead of sugar (lol). Body is stupid, give it protein and fat and you cool.

I assume Spenda, like any climber, will be putting in frequent 6-16 hour sessions as soon as outdoor climbing is temperature-feasible.

As long as I can crash at TC’s place in Chattanooga I’ll hooefully be crushing some outdoor trips soon.

I agree that the idea should be to hit the minimums and fill in the rest as you like. That’s the big rock here and I shouldn’t get too lost in sweating the small ones.

I need to figure out a way to film these. I believe I’m half crimping the middle/ring/pinky and open on the index finger. If that’s the case I’m super happy with them, if they more open hand than not sure the point.

I’m definitely getting better at sticking and moving off of smaller holds on the wall. The V5 I smoked yesterday was a great example of such, not a gimme hold out of 7 on the problem.

With a half-crimped grip I am the opposite. My first three are typically half crimped and the pinky is open due to it being shorter than the other fingers. I have been doing my hangs on a 20mm edge with weight added this training block, so perhaps it is the small edge size? Although, this spring I was doing some BW hangs on the 15mm and I am pretty sure my pinky was open and front three were half crimped.

I wouldn't worry about it too much though. Even if you are hanging open you are still strengthening that grip position. That will be useful on slopey-crimps and anything that you need to pull hard open handed.

Here is a little hype video for bouldering in and around Chatty. Get psyched!

A tough sloper problem is like dating the prettiest girl in school; you know it's only a matter of time until you get thrown off and while your friends will gather around and cheer you on, deep down you know they're really just waiting for their turn.

8/24 - 172p/380c/57f/52fiber = 2,721 calories

Upper Day B

Bench
6x150
9x135
8x135
8x135

Pec Dec 4 sets
Seated Cable Row 4 sets
Seated DB Press 4 sets
Y Band Raises

4 rounds
Wide Grip Chins 8xBW
Seated bent over lateral raises x16

4 rounds
Kneeling Cable Crunch
Rear Delt Flys
Leaning away lateral raises

Climbing Gym - 3 hours - Project Day

Sent my V6 project 3rd go. I posted it a while back with me failing the finish.

There was a competition going on and they had every problem graded in the gym. The purple I posted last Saturday was graded V7!!!

3 others I’ve sent were graded V6 so pretty pumped about that. Found a legit V7 to project, it’s the 2nd highest color grade and seems crazy tough but doable.

Overall I seem to definitely be progressing and I think over the next 4 months I can absolutely get to my 2018 goal(s) of walking up V5’s and projecting/sending V7’s.

8/25 - 204p/433c/66f/62fiber = 3,142 calories

Lower Body

Seated Leg Curls 4 sets
HBBS 4x8x155
Rope/Cable Pull-throughs 4 sets
Leg Press 4 sets
Smith Machine Calf Raises 4 sets
Walking BB Lunges 4x16x50

Going to go one more week then "deload". I need to program these in even if I feel like I'm recovering as I know joints/tendons don't give you the same indication as fatigue does. I'm not even past novice lifter stage, but with my climbing progressing I have to be cautious. A lower volume week in lifting and climbing with 1 or even 2 full days off should be mandatory every 6 weeks or so.

8/26 - 166p/420c/80f/47fiber = 3,064 calories

Getting closer to a really good macro split. Got the fats up via 5 tbsp of peanut butter today. Going to try to keep them at 70g+/day for this last week of my mesocycle and see how I feel. Been averaging 55g/day past two weeks.

Upper Day A

Weighted underhand chins 5x8xBW+20 (8th rep of 4th/5th sets were absolute grinders)
Overhand BB Rows 4x12
Incline DB Bench 4 sets
Neutral grip lat pulldowns 4x10

4 rounds
Bent over side raises
Band rear delt flys

EZ bar upright rows 4 sets
DB Shrugs 4 sets

Pretty fatigued from all the effort yesterday, need to make sure calories on Friday/Saturday are sufficient.

This should get you psyched. I tried to hang the 10mm edge on the tension hang board during today's session....I can't hang it all. Not even for 1s. Maaaaaybe if I was really fresh I could hang it for 1-2s.

Last season I sent 7 V6 and 1 V7 outside. My fingers are probably 8-10lbs stronger now than then.

Energy production wise you are likely already there for your goals! Just need to take down some boulders. Pick out some projects for your SE trip and we will put you on em.

Y’all are really making me question if I’m on the 10mm edges lol, surprising to me you could barely hang them. Perhaps that means my contact strength needs more work?

15mm feels about like 1/2 pad to me. 10mm is like a quarter pad. Pretty damn small. I certainly couldn't half crimp it at all today. I thought about trying to full crimp it but didn't think that was particularly wise. I didn't try it open handed.

Here is the hangboard I was using: https://www.tensionclimbing.com/hang...grindstone-pro

It has the edge sizes on there, so that is helpful. If your gym has one of these check it out.

I have been doing hangs with weight added on the 20mm edge half crimped this off-season. In May I could hang BW+25 for 7s. Over the summer I have worked up to BW+35. I can only hang that when I am totally fresh. I weigh 145-148.

Contact strength is a weird one because there is so much that goes into it. Being in the right position and firing the whole kinetic chain at the right moment is critical. There can be moves where latching the hold is quite difficult for me. If I can just position my hips dynamically in space better and tighten my whole body at the right moment the hold gets way easier to stick.

Yep that’s the exact board I use as well, so I’m definitely on the 10mm edge.

Awesome! You definitely have the strength to send some V6s and very likely some V7s as well.

I am probably going to be limited this year in terms of grade progression due to lack of finger strength this season. I am hoping to add a few more V7s to the ticklist and bunch more V5s and V6s. The V7s will have to suit me really well or require more power endurance than finger strength for me to be able to do them I suspect.

For me to be able to repeat a grinder set of chins with the same reps/weight in the same day is unimaginable. I usually lose 2-3 reps from a grinder.

4min rest FTW

For me it wouldn't matter. I have to intentionally leave 2-3 reps in the tank to do sets across, even with longer rests. Maybe it's because I have long arms and the movement is more fatiguing for me.

Could be because you haven’t been able to be consistent with training and you primarily operate in lower rep ranges. A true 5rm would **** me up right now but I’m doing lifts for 6-10 reps generally at like 65-75% of my 1RM.

Assuming you are mostly doing low rep work with pull-ups, my guess would be that Txclimber has a much higher level of aerobic capacity/power in his pulling muscles than you do. This allows him to regenerate ATP and reduce lactate at a much quicker rate and recover from hard sets faster.

Along with his strength work he is doing a large volume of sub-max pulling while climbing. This is just a guess, but I'd bet if y'all did something like 60% of 1RM pull-up for max reps he would get quite a few more reps.

I’m wondering if I was really on the 10 now too, lol. Guess i’ll Find out this Saturday.

Not sure how you guys don’t have finger pain, MBN. Think I’ll hangboard again when I lose 20 pounds

Hey Salo's Roof doesn't have anything harder than a v7 (or was it v6?). So v9 could be in range! Joe said he's gonna go for it.




TX,

You still gonna come to the south this fall/winter and climb with us?

10mm is ****ing tinyyyyy. Quarter pad for me too for sure. I'm not sure I could hang that at all.