8/15 - 184p/379c/50f/24fiber = 2,702 calories

Upper Day A

Dr Deadlift Rows 4x6x165
Wide grip Chins 4x8xBW
Incline DB Bench 4 sets up to 8x55s
Seated Cable Rows 4x10-15
Standing DB Press 4x8-12

SS 4 sets
Face pulls
Cable crunch

SS 4 sets
Rear delt cable flys
Scare crows

Snatch Grip BB Shrugs 4x12

Wednesday night seems to be the night to go to my gym, was dead at 7:15.

This is a very good way to go about it.

TTGL,

Here is an infographic from Lattice Training that has a quick breakdown of energy systems and a few ways to train them. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...09&oe=5C01BC4B

As Txclimber mentions speed and efficiency is critical when climbing longer sections. Here is an article Eric Horst wrote about Margo Hayes sending a 5.15a that covers pacing: https://trainingforclimbing.com/what...ography-5-15a/

8/16 - 160p/388c/62f/24fiber = 2,750

Climbing Gym =- 2.5 hours - Max Power Day

Struggle city to start this session but ended up being a good one.

4 boulders 2-3 grades below limit w/3min rest
4 boulders at or just below limit w/3min rest (got 2/4 done, both solid V4's)
30min bouldering with 15lb weight vest (sent a 15move circuit, ~6 V2-V3 graded problems, shut down on a V4 and V5)
3x8sec 15mm hang w/ 52sec rest
3x6sec 10mm hang w/ 3min rest
--Getting closer to this being half crimp vs. open hand
Reverse wrist curls w/ bands
Rolling PVC pipe w/5lb weight 3x

Last 7 days I've averaged 2,775cal/day so that's trending in the right direction as well.

Thank you, very interesting stuff.

When you guys are done warming up, do you have much of a pump at all?

Also let's say you're just "climbing" and not training per se, like working on new boulders you can flash or climb in several attempts. For me this would mean V2 in cave and otherwise V3 and sometimes V4 depending on the specific climb. How long of a rest would be ideal for you between attempts (or between boulders), assuming an attempt consists of more than a few moves? Perhaps specifically working climbs that aren't super pumpy but are also more intense than like a very slabby more relaxed climb.

trying to figure out this chart, lol

Reading the article now. <3 Margo

I’d think 2-3min between projecting specific moves should suffice. 5min maybe before a legit redpoint burn. I typically brush the holds I can reach from the ground, loosen my shoes, rehearse the moves in my mind, and still have a minute or two to kill.

If you are doing specific training I’d follow the rest protocol. If projecting I’d make sure you are recovered enough to give it a proper go.

If I have a pump after warming up I did something wrong, like over gripping or climbed something too tough. There might be some fatigue but if I’m pumped I rushed things or did too much.

This all sounds about right to me. In Steven Low's book Overcoming Gravity he list the approximate rate of ATP replenishment as follows:

50% in 30 seconds
75% in 60 seconds
88% in 90 seconds
95% in 120 seconds
99% in 180 seconds

He goes on to say, "In light of this, rest periods of at least 3 minutes between sets when performing strength work is strongly recommended. The goal of strength work is to specifically maximize neural factors of strength. When you resume training without adequately resting, muscular fatigue may become a limiting factor to the nervous system. You may not achieve the strength gains you desire because your muscles are limiting the amount of central nervous stimulus."

If I am outside and at my limit I may take 10 minutes between send attempts. If I am still trying to figure the problem out I have shorter rest periods of a minute or 2-3 depending on what I just did. Everything is climb specific though. This past season I was working a roof problem with a little over 20 hand moves and I was resting 20-30 minutes between send attempts.

One thing I have noticed about experienced and strong boulders is when they are climbing outside and trying to send they take very long rest periods.

8/17 - 194p/415c/58f/41fiber = 2,958 calories

Upper Day B

Bench
8x145
8x135
8x135
11x125

Pec Dec 4 sets
Lat Pulldowns 4 sets
Seated DB Press 4 sets

SS1 4 sets
Seated Cable Row
Cable crunch

Y-band raises 4 sets

SS2 4 sets
DB curls
DB lateral raises

Felt tired all day, upped the calories but something to keep an eye on, plan was to deload in 2 weeks but if I cannot put in good volume I'll do it sooner than later. Hopefully with today's calories and getting 3,000+ tomorrow I'll feel a bit better.

Climbing Gym - Project Day - 3 hours

Well....this was my best session ever.

Sent 10 V4-V6 graded problems and 2 V5-V7 graded. They probably spanned V3+ through V6-. Set out to try every orange problem in the gym (18) and managed to send 8 on the 1st go, albeit none of them were flashes as I'd tried/done them before. But I sent 2 new oranges after just a couple go's.

More positively I sent 2 purple V5-V7 projects of mine, got video of one. It might be the toughest boulder I've done to date.

Got video of 6 sends, didn't get video of a couple of the high end 5's or the other low 6 because I was surprised to send them lol.

Nice work! Keep on crushing!

8/18 - 201p/410c/57f/19fiber = 2,957 calories

Leg Day (Higher Volume)

Seated Leg Curls 4x10
HBBS 4x8x145
Leg Press 4x10
Pull throughs 4x10
Leg Extensions 4x10
Calf Raises 4x10
BB Lunges 4x16

Another good day, ticking off the volume. Gotta keep pushing the calories up, looks like too much protein and not enough carbs at the moment.

8/19 - 210p/547c/51f/25fiber = 3,487 calories

Checked in at a MASSIVE 141.0 this morning on the scale, lowest weight in forever, so the bulk is going super awesome.

Was super hungry all day, basically food on my mind constantly which is becoming more of a regularity. Feel like if I just auto-regulated on a flexible dieting protocol I'd be at 4k+ calories daily even with just "healthy" options at my place. Even after eating what was supposed to be my last meal of the night and while typing this up, I was starving so I had some more food.

Upper Day C

Weighted (underhand) chins
7xBW+35
7xBW+35
8xBW+25
8xBW+25

BB (overhand) Rows 4 sets
Incline DB Bench 4 sets
Neutral grip lat pulldowns 4 sets
Bent over side raises 4 sets
Above the knee rack pulls 4x8x345
Rope face pulls 4 sets

Plan is to keep the calories higher this week than planned, finish out this mesocycle this or next week, deload for a week, then get back after it. I feel like I have a good handle on the volume/intensity I want to hit in the gym and have a good schedule going right now. Every week I spent at (or around) maintenance calories is another week lost. I've spent 2+ years at or below maintenance and this **** needs to stop. I'm just wasting time at this point.

The upside is this can be you for the next few months!

https://youtu.be/r9s_ZYq6ay8?t=15

Lolol watched a few docs on Eddie lately, interesting dude and pushed his body/weight so far to win WSM.

8/20 - 174p/385c/56f/13fiber = 2,740 calories

Interesting diet day, only had about 1,200 calories in me by 8:30 so past two hours managed to down 1,500+ which is a decent amount of volume when it's from higher volume sources. Wasn't the plan but glad I got the calories in vs. ending like at 2,000.

Climbing gym - 2.5 hours - Power Endurance

This workout had moments of me following a training protocol, and other moments where I just went completely off-script w/ pointless stuff. In the end got a decent amount of low-rest power endurance work and some campusing. Not the best use of the time but not a complete waste either.

8/21 - 175p/380c/47f/39fiber = 2,643 calories

One diet note - last 2 weeks I've averaged 180g of protein daily, seems entirely too high and I think I can reallocate 40g to carbs. Just no need to eat more than 1g/lb bodyweight per day especially when in a "surplus".

Climbing + Legs - 2.5 hours

Gym was 83 degrees today, I know this because a. I was drenched in sweat the whole time and b. the thermostat is right by the squat rack. Cannot wait for cold temps...come December. Luckily if there's a day for the AC to be broken it's the day I do ez moves on decent holds.

Endurance climbing day, main exercise was 4x20 move circuit w/30 sec rest, was ezpz so did 4x20 move circuit with 20sec rest. Then tried to do back to back 20 move circuits and fell on 34th move. Biggest issue with this session was that there were tons of kids training and just hogging every area. They seemed to clear out late in my session but I had already moved onto the gym.

Legs (low volume day)

HBBS 6x8x145
KB Swings 4x12x35lb
Good mornings 4x8x45lb

Skin gets a much needed day off tomorrow, it is is rough shape right now.

8/22 - 169p/378c/58f/52fiber = 2,710 calories

Upper Day A

Convinced by a co-worker to check out the gym in our office building, it pretty much sucks outside of a cable system with varying pull-up handles. Did the best I could but doubt I go too often.

Seated Machine Row 4 sets
Wide grip chins 4 sets
Incline DB Bench 4 sets
One arm lat pulldowns 4 sets
Standing DB Press

SS1 4 sets
Tricep rope pushdown
Side raises
DB Curls

SS2 4 sets
Calf raises
Machine shrugs

Whatever kinda day, Wednesday should be my easiest day anyways. Weight been a little higher past couple days, could be because I'm stuffing myself eating so late and that's just carrying over to morning weigh-in.

I'm wondering, why do you eat so low fat? Seems way easy to get more calories in through eating more healthy fats, + makes everything taste better.

Also what in the world is it like to have 400g of carbs a day? lol. Must be nice.

Idk if I’d call it low fat, I’m averaging like 55g/day. Main idea is the more carbs the better so 55 vs 75g of fat allows me 45-50g more carbs a day. Now that I have the carbs way up I plan on going for fattier protein sources.

I was thinking of dropping the protein and upping the fats. It’s not really intentional just that most my carb choices don’t contain much fat and I’ve been eating skinless chicken thighs, liquid eggs, and 90/10 beef lately.

Carbs being high are aiding sleep for sure and they’re generally coming from what most would consider good sources: oats/rice/fruit so the volume is very high as well. I’m holding onto a bunch of water recently. Think it could be the extra fiber I’m getting from these whole wheat flax wraps I bought for some reason.

hmm, maybe it's just me having low carbed for so long. 55g on a bulk is lower than I'm used to, that's probably around my intake on 1800 kcal right now lol.

The protein swap makes sense. More than 1g for a natural athlete on a surplus doesn't seem to do anything. Plus think of all the delicious fats you could turn those 40g protein into...man I can't imagine eating plain chicken breasts on a bulk, lol. Pretty sure my fatty protein intake is my favorite part of the day (along with wine perhaps haha)

I hadn't heard of fiber leading to water retention but that makes sense. Will have to look into that

Lol I legit just blindly assumed I was bloated due to the excess fiber. No reasoning or science behind it. Could be completely backwards.

I keep a macro split very similar to yours (although with more protein than you), and I find it works quite well.

Yea 'm enjoying this split, I love carbs so this is great for me. Alas another day today where protein was too high and carbs too low.

8/23 - 179p/341c/57f/54fiber = 2,593 calories

Climbing Gym - 2.5 hours - Max Power Day

I'd call this a solid session, sent a project of mine during the "at your limit" part of this workout. It's a rock solid V5 that I absolutely walked up today. Climbs like that make me know I'm making progress. Will try to video it Saturday.

After the climbing portion I did the following

Campus Balls
1-2-3-4-5-6-7 up and down
1-3-4-6-7 1x each arm
1-4 1x each arm

Campus rungs
1-3 1x each arm

Some videos from that part of the workout



Beastmaker2000

4x10secx20mm edge w/ 1min rest
4x10secx15mm edge w/ 1min rest
2x9secx10mm edge w/ 3min rest

Forearm roller 2x10lbs
Fat grip DB holds 2x15sec @50lbs
Band reverse wrist curls 2 sets

You say this like it's a real thing...

Fair point, its not like an extra 40g of protein are hurting you per say. I suppose if it were fat instead it could contribute to improved recovery though

Anecdotally some people respond better to higher protein levels even bulking. As far as actual scientific evidence though, I've never seen it

What's your split like Gorilla? also bodyweight? Just curious. You guys make me feel like I go way too low carb and high fat, even on my carb up days

Fair point, its not like an extra 40g of protein are hurting you per say

Anecdotally some people respond better to higher protein levels even bulking. As far as actual scientific evidence though, I've never seen any supporting it

I put all my daily nutrition in my log (as well as pics if you're interested in body comp with this macro split).

But yesterday was:

246.0 lbs
3131 kcal (301p/343c/69f)


And yea, I'm not sure how much science backs up protein over a certain level (except when cutting), but anecdotally (for me and my field research as well), the biggest, most muscular humans on the planet are eating A LOT of protein (>1g/lb).

god damn man. That's a hell of a lot of protein. Sick log, will start following.