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Originally Posted by cottonseed1
I have the same problem as y'all. I'd much rather climb than lift. Putting lifting on my rest days from climbing has worked best for me. I do a minimal amount of lifting at 2x a week during the off-season and probably 1x a week during. I am not doing a ton of volume either.
I don't know how well lifting on off days would work with a more lifting focused program though. It would certainly get more difficult to squeeze everything in.
I think the balance for me is no heavy lifting and keeping the assistance work light. Deadlifts and squats are the last thing I need right now. I lifted and climbed last year and it definitely impacted my recovery. I find I can do light cable rows for reps, TRX rows, abs, and lots of cable assistance work + mobility/activation without impacting my climbs. Out of all of those only the TRX body rows are fatiguing but they seem beneficial enough to justify as they are a weak point, and they're still way less tiring than pull-ups.
I heard even Ondra doesn't do BW pull-ups, he actually uses a band to reduce the load and does them for sets of 30 as injury prevention training. At this point I feel like the best thing to get stronger at climbing is just to climb and maybe a little hanging. Everything else is mobility/activation and injury prevention. Getting more stable with my arms over my head, being able to lift my knee higher for mantle moves or a very high foot, stabilizing my shoulders and improving ROM, all seems way more relevant than anything heavy barbell lifts could do for me.
That all being said if I was at my ideal weight (or if I was Spenda) I could certainly see the benefit in some heavy rows, db bench, stuff like that to maximize power and condition the antagonists better. I'd probably just climb instead anyway though, lol