Olympics ****ing my sleep schedule up but totally worth it, love watching the best compete in any and all sports.

W1D6

AM apartment gym (3 RiR)
3x Flat DB bench 15,9,8x45’s
2x Cable flys 14,8x40
4x side raises 18,9x15’s 12,11x10’s

PM gym (3 RiR)
2x BB RDLs 12,9x135
2x seated leg curls 9,7x100
3x leg press 12,8,7x140

This was my attempt to find a way to climb W/Fr/Sun but idk if as the mesocycle gets tougher if I can. Still fun though but probably tough to recover.

W1D7 Climbing gym (2-3RiR)

4x 20mm half crimp 4x6sec
2x 2finger Commando chins 9/8, 6/5xBW
2x wide grip chins 7,5xBW
2x Lat prayers 16,11x140
3x CGBP 17,10,10x60
2x Incline DB curls 13,9x17.5’s

45min bouldering
—Did a bunch of V3’s on the 40 degree Kilter Board. Gotta slowly but surely increase my fingerboarding and bouldering volume.

W2D1 rest

W2D2

AM (2 RiR)

Underhand chins 12,6,5xBW+20 (165.5 TSW)
Rope one armer to unsupported negative 4/3,3/3x15” knot
Overhand chins 7xBW

PM climbing gym

4x6sec 20mm half crimp
Bouldering 45min
—flashes a few V4’s on the Kilter board at 30 degrees
Incline DB curls 22,10,7x15’s
Reverse Pec dec rear delt flys 21,14,9x50

W2D3

AM Apartment gym (2 RiR)

3x 30deg incline DB bench 13,10,7x45’s
2x Cable fly’s 14,9x40
4x side raises 15,11x15’s 12,9x10’s
2x Cable push downs 8x80, 7x70

PM Gym (2 RiR)

BB RDLs 11,8x145
Seated leg curls 11,8x100
Smith machine squats 9,5x135 (misloaded meant to be 125)
Leg extensions 15,10x60
Smith Calf raises 13,9x165

Think I’m giving up on this raised heel feet forward smith squat just two weeks in, nowhere near the stimulus and quad pump I get from leg press.

W2D4 rest

W2D5
Climbing gym

4x 20mm half crimp 4x7sec
2x 3finger commando chins 9/11, 8/7xBW
2x wide neutral chins 6,5xBW
3x lat prayers 10,8,8x160
4x DB side raises 16,10x15’s 11,9x12’5’s

30deg Kilter board 45min
—Found a good V5 to session project next time. Seems to be a good challenging grade for me at 30 degrees

3x DB curls 21,15,9x15’s
3x Reverse Pec Dec 26,14,10x60

Might have to rethink some of the lifts on this more hypertrophy focused back day. Really not liking any of them. Doing the commando chins to keep a one arm chin movement in the workout but maybe my Tues/Sun sessions are enough to maintain and/or make minor improvements. Really want to make the lat prayers happen but they just kinda hurt my shoulders and don’t pump my lats so what’s the point?

Been quickly shedding the handful of lbs I put on going off the rails in July. Averaging 2,200kcal/day and actually reduced my walking quite a bit. Wouldn’t stun me if my NEAT is up though. I was at 1,700kcal/day at the end of my diet in June.

W2D6

AM Apartment gym (2 RiR)
3x DB bench 12,8,7x50’s
3x Cable flys 14,10,9x30
3x seated DB press 11,10,8x25’s

PM Gym
3x CGBP 14,11,9x65
3x BB RDLs 11,9,8x145
3x leg press 12,8,6x150

3x smith calves 8,8,7x185

Small issue with my right shoulder but I can work around it for the time being.

W2D7

Climbing gym
4x7sec 20mm half crimp
3x underhand chins 8,5,5xBW+45 @8.5
3x rope one armer to unsupported negative 1,1,1x25” knot
2x 90deg lock off x6sec 1,1xBW

Circuits 45min

3x DB curls 20,10,8x20’s

Two weeks into this six week block. I think it’s going ok but if I could highlight an area for improvement it would just be focus/intensity during sessions. Too often I’m rushed or sneaking away during a work break to squeeze in a 30min session. Problem is I like going during down times and that means during the day.

W3D1 rest
W3D2

AM Home (2RiR/@8.5RPE)

4x Underhand chins 11,8,6,5xBW+25
3x Rope one armer to unsupported negative 1,1,1x15” knot
1x Overhand chins 9xBW

PM climbing gym

4x hangboard 4x7sec 20mm half crimp
45min bouldering - 30deg Kilter
—Sent 3 V5’s and a soft V6 (NASCAR)

Only issue with the Kilter board is like 90% of the hard moves are with the right hand and that’s the shoulder that’s causing me grief. Otherwise it’s great I can stay away from everyone else, masked up and just do my thing.

Looks like we will be trying to put masks back in place in Dallas. I never stopped but 99% did. My weightlifting gym will skirt the rules so I’ll have to put that on hold, can’t justify supporting them. Climbing gyms already sent out notes saying they’ll enforce the mask rules so that’s good for me.

AM Apartment gym (2 RIR)

3x Incline DBs bench 14,10,8x45’s
3x cable flys 16,11,8x30
3x seated DB press 12,8,7x25’s
3x Cable curls 12x30, 10,8x20

I ****ing hate curls, cannot find any method that produces a pump without wrecking my elbows.

PM Gym (2 RIR)

3x CGBP 15,10,8x70
2x BB RDLs 12,10x150
2x Seated leg curls 10,7x105
3x Leg press 12,8,5x160
3x smith calves 14,10,9x155

Leg day coming along nicely. Quads and calves can start taking on more volume for sure.

W3D4 rest
W3D5

Climbing gym (2 RIR/8.5RPE)

4x 4x7sec 20mm half crimp
2x 3-finger commando chins 10/13, 6/7xBW
3x WG lat pull downs 18,13,11x90
2x Lat prayers 10,7x60
4x DB side raises 18,14x12.5’s 12,10x10’s
3x Reverse Pec deck 15,10,8x70
1x Cable curls 17x50
2x DB curls 18,9x12.5’s

30 degrees Kilter board 45min
—sent a few V5’s, picked ones that weren’t dynamic to the right arm. Shoulder thanked me after.

Right shoulder and trap confirmed ****ed, but also kinda not getting in the way of training.

W3D6

AM Apartment gym (2 RiR)

4x Flat DB bench 14,10,8,6x50’s
3x Cable flys 9,7,7x40
3x Seated DB press 12,9,8x25’s

PM gym (2 RiR)

4x CGBP 19,11,8,8x70
2x BB RDLs 10,9x155
2x seated leg curls 14,9x95
4x Smith calf raises 17,11,9,10x155
3x leg extensions 27,11,8x50

Passed on leg press, lower back didn’t love them last time and there was a mask less idiot right next to it anyways.

W3D7

Climbing gym (1-2 RiR, @9RPE)

4x7sec 20mm half crimp

3x Underhand chins 7,5,5xBW+50
3x Rope one armer to unsupported negative 1,1,1x25” knot
3x 90deg lock offs x7sec

Light circuits 45min
—These sessions are somewhat demoralizing. I was in such insanely good power endurance shape pre COVID. Now…not so much.

In positive news apparently eating 600g+ carbs/day and sleeping 9 hours each of the last two days left me feeling much better overall today. Who would have thunk it?

Signed up for booster vaccine appointment tomorrow. Walgreens turned me away today, lame.

W4D1 rest
—Received my third dose of that sweet sweet Bill Gates vaccine. CVS made it super easy didn’t even require anything from my rheumatologist. Sore left arm next day and maybe some overall fatigue but hard to discern if that’s just from all the activity lately.

Either way super happy to get another round of science jabbed into my arm.

W4D2 (1ish RIR @9 RPE)

4x Underhand chins 12,7,7,7xBW+25 (170.9TSW)
3x rope one armer to unsupported negative 2,2,2x15” knot
1x overhand chins 9xBW

Back wasn’t fully recovered from the intensity session Sunday. I have however been recovering well from my hypertrophy sessions on Friday. I might need to change this day and Sunday so the intensity day has an extra day off. It’s likely the lock offs that are the culprit. I might just reduce the RPE on those and see.

Not going to go climb today. Want to relax and make sure I don’t overdo it the day after the booster dose.

No real effects from the booster dose, sore arm and maybe ever so slight fatigue but hardly noticeable.

W4D3

AM Apartment gym (1-2 RiR)

4x Incline DBs 15,10,8,6x45’s
3x Cable fly’s 12,8,8x40
3x seated DB press 9,6x30’s 8x25’s
4x incline DB curls 18,16,8,5x15’s

PM Gym (1-2 RiR)

4x CGBP 15,9,8,7x75
3x BB RDLs 11,7,6x160
2x Seated leg curls 14,8x95
3x Leg press 9,6,5x165
2x Leg extensions 10,9x60
4x Smith calves 12,10,9,6x185

I may have miscalculated this day in my mesocycle. Two weeks from now it’s gonna be rough.

W4D4 rest

W4D5

Climbing gym (1-2 RiR)

4x 20mm half crimp 4x7sec

2x 3-finger commands chins 11/14,7/8xBW
4x Lat Pulldowns 14,9,9,8x105
3x Lat prayers 10,10,8x60
4x DB side raises 18,14,10,9x12.5’s
3x Cable curls 18,11,7x120

45min Kilter board 30 degrees

Couple meh days, plus aggravated my shoulder tinge again. We will see how Tues/Wed do and assess the mesocycle at that point.

W4D6

AM Apartment gym (1-2 RiR)

4x Flat DB bench 13,10,7,6x50’s
3x Cable flys 10,8,7x40
4x Seated DB Press 14,9,8x25’s

PM Gym (1 RiR)

4x CGBP 16,10,8,8x75
3x BB RDLs 10,7,6x165
3x Seated leg curls 12,7,6,x95
3x Leg press 11,7,5x170
3x Leg extensions 11,9,8x50
4x Smith calves 11,9,7,7x185


W4D7

Climbing gym (1 RiR)

4x 20mm half crimp 4x7sec
3x Underhand chins 7,5,5xBW+50 @9.5
4x rope one armer to unsupported negative 1,1,1,1x30” knot @9.0
3x 90deg lockoffs 1,1,1x5sec @9.0

Bouldering 45min

Really struggling last couple days, even with good sleep and plenty of food. Think I added too much volume (plus a third climbing day per week) overall and didn’t listen to my body when I had those slight injuries in my right shoulder and trap. Was supposed to have two weeks left in mesocycle.

Decided to take two light training days, rest tomorrow and decide what to do Friday. Could either be tie start of a deload or just what the doctor ordered and I can run this meso through the 2nd week of September.

W5D1 rest

W5D2 (0-1 RiR)

Underhand chins 11,7,6xBW+30
Rope one armers 3/2,3/2,2/2x16” knot
Overhand chins 9xBW

W5D3 (2+ RiR)

3x 30deg Incline DBs 10,7,6x50’s
2x BB RDLs 8,7x165
2x Leg press 8,6x175
2x Smith calves 15,10x155

After two light days and a rest day I was back at it yesterday. Have two more weeks of this mesocycle then some work travel forces a full deload anyways. Going to go from maintenance to slight surplus calories next two weeks.

W5D4 rest

W5D5 (1-2 RiR)

3x Wide grip chins 11,10,6xBW
3x Neutral lat pulldowns 11,10,9x105
2x Seated Cable row 11,11x90
4x DB Side Raises 22,16,12,11,x12’s
3x Incline DB curls 23,10,10x15’s

W5D6

AM Apartment gym (2 RiR)

4x Flat DB bench 11,9,7,6x50’s
1x Flat DB bench 40x35’s (monster set)
3x Seated DB press 9,8,7x25’s

Subbed monster set for flys as those don’t feel great on my shoulder.

PM Gym (1-2 RiR)

4x CGBP 16,8,6,6x75
2x BB RDLs 12,8x165
3x Leg press 8,6,5x180
2x Leg extensions 12,10x40
4x Smith calves 16,10,8,8x155

Lower body progressing nicely.

Definitely fresher today than past weeks, will keep this mesocycle rolling.

W5D7 (@9 RPE)

4x 20mm half crimp 4x7sec

3x Underhand chins 6,5,5xBW+55
4x Rope one armers 1,1,1,1x30” knot
3x One arm negatives 1,1,1xBW

Medium intensity bouldering 45min

Shooting for 2,500kcal/day next couple weeks. Thinking three high days, two medium and two low. So 2,750-2,900 on highs, 2,500 medium and 1900-2100 on rest days. Good guesstimate is at 140lbs my maintenance is 2,250/day. However as weather cools I’ll inevitably walk more so need to be mindful if the scale isn’t moving.

W6D1 rest

W6D2

AM (1 RiR)

4x Underhand chins 11,8,7,6xBW+30 (174.2 TSW)
3x Rope supported one armer to unsupported negative 2,2,2x15” knot
1x Overhand chins 10xBW

PM

4x 20mm half crimp 4x7sec
Bouldering 45min medium intensity

W6D3

AM Apartment gym (1 RiR)

4x 30deg Incline DBs 10,8,7,6x50’s
1x 45deg Incline DBs 48x30’s (monster)
3x Incline DB curls 13,6,5x20’s

PM Gym

2x BB RDLs 10,7x170
1x Seated leg curls 14x95
4x CGBP 10,9,8,7x80
4x Smith calves 14,9,7,7x175
3x Leg extensions 19,9,9x60

W6D4 rest

W6D5 (1-2 RiR)

3x Neutral chins 10,8,7xBW+25
4x Wide lat Pulldowns 17,14,15,12x100
3x Lat Prayers 16,11,8x140
4x Cable curls 27,14,7x100

W6D6

AM Apartment gym (1 RiR)

4x DB bench 14,9,8,7x50’s
1x DB bench 40(15,9,8,8)x40’s (monster)
3x Seated DB press 11,9,7x25’s
3x DB Side raises 11,7,6x10’s

PM Gym (1 RiR)

2x BB RDLs 12,7x170
4x CGBP 16,9,7,7x80
5x Smith calves 17,12,10,10,9x165
4x Leg Extensions 17,9,x60 11,9x50

Body feels pretty good, calories around 2900/day on lifting days, 1900 on rest days.

Averaged 3,100 calories last three days. Really been trying to up my healthy fat consumption. I tracked what I thought was a high fat day last week and it was like 49g lol.

W6D7 (0-1 RiR)

4x Underhand chins 7,5,5,4xBW+55 (198.2 TSW)
3x Rope one armer to unsupported negative 2,2,2x27” knot
3x One arm negatives 1,1,1xBW
4x DB Curls 4 sets x13’s

Good session at home the 7xBW+55 might be a WR.

Decided not to climb today, have a few bumps and bruises that needed healing.

Go Go!

Thanks man! Enjoyed your videos. Always insane to me how much harder an outdoor 5.9 looks than like an indoor 5.11d lol.

Been training and eating. One day left on my mesocycle then onto a deload.

W7D1 rest

W7D2 (1 RiR)

4x Underhand chins 10,8,6,6xBW+35 (180.2 TSW)
3x Rope one armer to unsupported negative 3,3,3x15” knot
2x Overhand chins 9,7xBW

W7D3

AM Apartment gym (0 RiR)

4x 30deg Incline bench 12,9,8,6x50’s
1x 30deg Incline bench 46(12,11,9,7,7)x35’s (monster)
4x incline DB curls 23,10,8,6x15’s
3x Seated DB press 15,7,7x25’s
1x DB side raises 31x10’s (myo reps)

PM Gym

3x seated leg curls 19,14,9x95
3x JM press to CGBP 6/12x55 9/14,9/9x45
5x Smith calves 18,11,11,9,8x165
3x Leg Press 7,7,7x140
2x Leg extensions 9,8x50

W7D4 rest

W7D5 (0-1 RiR)

Climbing gym

4x 20mm half crimp 4x7sec
3x Neutral grip chins 11,8,5xBW+25
4x Lat Pulldowns 17,12,11,11x105
2x Lat prayers 15,10x160
4x Cable curls 20,11,10,8x120

Bouldering 50min

W7D6

AM Apartment gym (0 RiR)

4x Flat DB bench 16,9,8,8x50’s
1x Flat DB bench 45x (15,8,8,8,6) x40’s (monster)
3x DB side raises 17,12,9x10’s
3x Seated DB press 11,9,9x25’s

PM gym

3x BB RDLs 9,7,6x175
4x BB floor press 15,11,10,9x85
3x Leg press 12,7,6x160
3x Smith calves 18,9x165

Thanks

Grades are so subjective but in my limited experience Gunks grades are harder than gym grades. The Gunks has reputation for sandbagged grades but I haven't traveled enough in recent times to personally confirm. Many route that are 5.4-5.6 were established in the 30s,40s, and 50s when the hardest route in the world was thought to be 5.9 so it makes sense.