I can post some drop knees and back steps for y'all

On the boards I try to do it this way because it's tougher, think I got the idea from Mani the Monkey (best climbing Youtuber content wise imo since Magnus Mitbo stopped posting as much.)

I'll agree it's bleeding into my actual climbing, need to keep an eye on it.

Pull Day A

Weighted Chins
3x6xBW+35 (tougher than I'd like)

Seated Cable Rows 4x8
Lat Pulldowns 3x10

Rear Delt circuit (2x)
Face pulls
Reverse pec dec
Cable flys

Above the knee rack pulls up to 6x355

4 Rounds
EZ bar curls
DB Lateral raise

Egyptian cable raise 4 sets

Figured I'd post a somehwat typical day eating (1 training session day). Today was much higher protein powder and less whole foods than I'd like but was in a bit of a crunch with interviews.

Pre workout
1 cup (80g) quick oats
1 cup (140g) frozen fruit
1 whole egg
3 servings (138g) liquid egg whites

~550 calories

Post workout - Overnight Oats
1/2 cup (40g) oatmeal
16g protein powder
4oz milk
1cup (140g) frozen fruit
1/2 cup (113g) greek yogurt

~400 calories

Snack - Protein Pancakes
40g Bisquick
31g protein powder
28g frozen blueberries
3oz milk
1 whole egg
2g baking powder
Sugar free syrup

~400 calories

Dinner - Homemade burrito bowl
3/4cup dry white rice
5oz chicken breast
100g pinto beans
Salsa verde

~500 calories

1,850 calories at 150p/238c/29f/27fiber

I will probably have some more oats/fruit as well to get myself up to 2,100 calories for the day. Lacking veggies today, which unfortunately is fairly typical as well.

If you've been climbing forever and have a really solid technical base, then I'd say go for it. I see some of the strong locals doing this on the Moonboard. They tend to be 5.13, V10 type strong with tons outdoor mileage under their belts.

I think for us newer climbers with a lot of room for technique gains it is better to try and climb as well as possible. It gets hard to unlearn ingrained movement patterns. This is particularly true when under stress. I figure we can still get plenty of strength and power gains from hangboarding, limit bouldering, campusing boulders etc. Thoughts?

I agree technique should be worked on and constantly improved. I dedicate one day each weak to technique work. I typically do the following exercises all on the same problem(s):

1. Hover reaching hand over hold for 3s count
2. Hover foot over foothold for 3s count
3. Climb with quiet feet
4. Climb without reshuffling hand placement
5. Peter pans
6. One foot climbs

I'll typically find 2-3 good V3's and do these drills. Then I'll go to the easy 20-move circuit on the fairly vertical wall and climb slowly, concentrating on perfect big toe placement.

Ahh interesting comment. When I started climbing my friend would always try to get me to turn my hip and switch feet, flag, basically not go straight on. But he was sort of wrong because as you put it it was beyond my holding grade to take the time to make the move statically and barely possible if I just pulled and lunged for it... I think all of the first V1 I climbed involved me doing a bunch of pull-ups and jumping, lol

Yea I tried the move today, no dice, can't get your right foot on that hold. I should explain I use the small bottom footholds but after that when setting those problems I make feet follow hands. Definitely makes things more interesting.

7/12

170p/238c/35f = 1950 calories

Climbing gym 3 hours

Upset with myself about this session. Was supposed to just be a technique/easy day because I want to visit a gym in Austin tomorrow. Instead I just kinda free climbing V5ish stuff and didn't do any technique work. This highlights my need for a more structured program.

Push Day B

Press 4x8x95
Standing DB Press 4 sets
Incline DB Bench 4 sets
Cable flys 4 sets
Scare crows 4 sets
Side raises 4 sets

Traveling this weekend, but might get to go to 2 new gyms if I plan it right.

Managed to go to a climbing gym 2x this weekend while road-tripping it up.

7/13 - Estimated calories 3,200

Went to Crux Climbing Center in ATX. They host some pretty big competitions here. Cool place with a lot of awesome angles for bouldering...plus a MOONBOARD.

Worked out first then climbed

Wide grip chins 4x8xBW
Sumo DLs up to 5x215
Dr Deadlift rows 3x10

Climbed a bunch, they grade in brackets, could send every V3-V4 problem in the gym but no V5-V6, although a few felt doable (more on that later).

Went up to the Moonboard to mess around, man 6A+ problems are tough on this thing, plus it's hell on your skin.





Overall a good session, more on Sunday's climbing in next post.

7/14 - Estimate calories 3,200 - no workout

7/15 - Calories 2,350

Climbing gym 3.5 hours - Had to decide between returning to Crux on my way through ATX or going to the bouldering project. Last minute decided to go to Crux again.

Again exercised then climbed

Weighted chins up to 6xBW+40
HBBS 6,6,10 x155

Climbed and sent two V5-V6 graded problems, unfortunately no video but both were big moves on pinches. I'd say one could maybe be a V6 but it'd be a soft one.

One of the cool thing about Crux is when they set on their comp wall they don't grade anything for a week or two. This allows people to try the problems without fear of the grade. I sent this orange that I'd rate a V4.



Also sent a couple more Mooboard 6A+'s, man if I had a yard I'd probably build myself one of these, they're addicting.

7/16

198p/234c/39f/16fiber = 2080 calories

Too much protein powder again, not enough carbs.

Push Day A

Bench
5x155
4x155
10x135

DB Bench 4x10
Pec Dec 4 sets
Standing DB Press 4x12

SS 4 sets
EZ bar curls
DB lateral raises

Egyptian side raises 4 sets
Pushups to failure

Nice work on the Moonboard! I love that thing. To me, it feels more like climbing outside than most gym climbing. I haven't gotten to climb on the set with the red holds yet. It looks like they added some slopers?

I don't have a frame of reference but this was the moonboard masters 2017 set-up, I'd consider 1 or 2 holds more sloper-like than pinches.

7/17 - 163p/284c/69f/26fiber = 2,410 calories

Had the "Impossible Burger" tonight with a side of tater tots. It basically tasted like an actual hamburger, might have been slightly overdone though. Not converting to Vegan don't worry.

Leg Day A

HBBS
6,6,11x160

Below the knee rack pulls
2x6x215

4 rounds
Goblet DB Squat 10x60
KB Swings 10x44

Walking DB Lunges 3x16x10's

Climbing Gym 3.5 hours

Another poorly executed session, was supposed to strictly be power endurance. Did finish with 1hr on the 30deg wall but free climbed the first couple hours, projecting some V6's which ofc I didn't send.

7/18 - 181p/301c/43f/20fiber = 2,315 calories

Pull Day A

Weighted chins 3x6xBW+40
Underhand BB rows 4 sets
Lat pulldowns 3 sets
Seated cable rows 3 sets

3 rounds
Face pulls
Reverse pec dec

Time crunch, skipped side raises and curls.

7/19 - 175p/319c/36f/29f = 2,300 calories

Push Day B

Press
3x8x100

Standing Arnold Press 4 sets
Bench press cluster set 21 reps @105

4 rounds
Lateral raises
Scare crows

Cable side raises 4 sets
Pushups to failure (33)

7/19 - Climbing gym 4 hours

Did the following workout from an intermediate program I downloaded that has 3 different days, this is the "Max Power day"

10 minutes bouldering on large holds
3-5 near maximal boulders (within 3 number grades) with 3 min rest
Work on 1-3 "near limit" boulders with 3 min rest between attempts
Do 4 sub-maximal boulders with a weight vest (12lbs)

3 sets of 7s-53s max handboard effort (did 15mm edge)

3 rounds
Weighted chins 6xBW+12
Campus ladders (every other rung, did on pinches not campus rungs)

After that I did free climbing for about 90min, sent some newly set V4/V5 graded problems. Found a couple V5+/V6- I might be able to project/send in the month they're up.

7/20 - 163p/238c/27f/15fiber = 1,847 calories

Weird day, rolled over at 2:30 this morning with neck/trap discomfort, and since the British Open was on I didn't bother trying to go back to bed.

Pull Day B - Inspired by my favorite YouTube bro's advice here https://youtu.be/9B-5irFdB3c

Lat Activation - 3 sets

Extra wide grip chin-ups - 2x8xBW
1-1-4 tempo Lat Pulldowns 4 sets
T-Bar rows 4 sets
1 arm pulldowns 3 sets
Reverse rear delt flys 2x15
EZ bar curls 1-1-4 tempo 4 sets
Reverse/hammer/db curl superset 30 reps
Above the knee rack pull 3x6x325
Kneeling rope pulldowns 4 sets

The kneeling rope pulldown with using 2 ropes gave me maybe the best lat exhaustion I've ever felt, definitely keeping that in the rotation.

Also used the lat activation shown in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8N-RT0N-aQ with light band, again that was really good for feeling the lats work.

Good session, definitely walking around a little light but plan on getting after the food this weekend so wanted a little buffer last couple days.

Leg Day B

HBBS
6x165
6x165
11x165

Goblet Squats 4x10x65
KB Swings 4x12x35
Walking DB lunges 4x16x12s

Slept better, need to figure out how serious I am about DLs right now, not really performing them with any consistency. Curious if rack pulls + squats will do the trick. Cannot forget my main aesthetic goals are back+legs and DL can help massively here.

7/21- 201p/341c/36f/35fiber = 2,492 calories

Climbing Session - Project Day - 3.5 hours

Picked 7 different problems in the gym at or above my limit. Gave myself 20min to do each problem.

Only one I sent was my first one, a V5 full of pinchy slopers.

I'd rate the other 6 anywhere from V5+ to V6+. Only one problem felt truly improbable, the others came down to a single crux I couldn't execute.

Food wise I need to tweak the diet a bit, I'd like to have a better than 2:1 carbrotein ratio. I've added rice cakes into my diet and that definitely helps. Once I jump the calories to 2,700/day I'll try to get the extra ~300/day all from carbs.

A great day would look like 170p/400c/50f.

7/22 - 156p/304c/38f/24fiber = 2,182 calories

Climbing Gym - Endurance/Technique Day

4x8xBW+15 Wide grip chins
4x8 Knees to bar

Gym was a madhouse with a family bbq event going on, oh well. Disrupted my ability to do some circuits but ended up doing 5xmax time with 5min rest. I think my best time on the wall was 2:45 lol, definitely not a lead climber.

Then I spent an hour playing "golf" which I enjoy. Helps me with moves like drop knees. Basically you try to do a problem with as few as hand holds as possible. You don't count the start/finish.

Did probably a half dozen V2ish graded problems with just 2 holds. Only managed a single Ace on a V0.

The larger rough holds took a nice chunk of skin off my right index finger, sigh.

Definitely beat up and wiped out, good thing tomorrow is just a bro chest day, need some rest.

7/23 = 151p/281c/38f/24fiber = 2,070 calories

Got a full nights sleep which was very welcome, had some weird/dull side delt discomfort but it didn't impact anything in the gym.

Push Day A

Bench
4x8x140

Incline DB Bench 4-2-1 tempo
4 sets up to 8x50s

Seated DB Press 4x10x30s

Pec Dec 4-4-1 tempo 4 sets
Side raises 4 sets

Sick pump, bro. Bought a digital bodyweight scale, should be here in a couple days. Want to use it to keep myself in check because I think if anything I might be down weight this month.

7/24 - 166p/326c/43f/29fiber = 2,355 calories

Leg Day A

HBBS
6x170
6x170
9x170

Sumo DL 5x220 @8ish

Cable crunch 4 sets
Walking DB Lunges 3x16x15s

Legs felt pretty tired, need to get better shoes to squat in, calories too low, etc...

Climbing gym - 4 hours

Power Endurance

Worked the 45er a bit but there were a couple kids getting coached on it so that kinda sucked. Basically just did a bunch of 4-5 moves on boulders outside my grade with short rest as a substitute. Might be able to send a V6 but this was at the sister gym I only go to like 2x/month right now.

New scale got delivered around 11am today, stepped on hydrated, but fasted. Came in at 142.6 lol. I'll likely be tracking my weight daily but posting weekly average here. Let's hope it weighs a few pounds under as it was basically the same time of day and conditions on 7/3 I came it at 145.8 for the DEXA. I highly doubt I'm down 3lbs of actual bodyweight these 3 weeks averaging over 2,500 calories a day, but hey if I my maintenance calories are 3k/day and bulk is higher then I look forward to the eating

7/25 - 151p/303c/55f/25fiber = 2,311 calories

Pull Day A

Weighted chins
6x45
6x45
5x45

Underhand BB rows 4x12
Lat Pulldowns 4x12

Superset
Rope facepulls 3x12
Reverse Pec Dec 3x15

Above the knee rack pulls
8x285
6x335

Kneeling dual rope lat pulldown 4 sets

7/26 - 185p/312c/47f/21fiber = 2,411 calories

Too much protein (powder) not enough CARBZ

Push Day B

Press
6x105
3x5x105

Bleh definitely losing ground on press this month, need to eat.

Seated DB Press 3x9x40s, 7x40s

Lateral raises 4 sets
Scare crows 4 sets
Leaning away side raises 4 sets

Kneeling cable crunch 4 sets

Push-ups (to failure) - 34