12/31 - 3,751 calories
1/1 - 3,360 calories

Leg Day
HBBS up to 2x205
—Trying to rework my squat, need to take videos. Really want to fix knee cave issues.
Bunch of paused squats at 155

DB RDLs up to 8x75s
Calf raises 4 sets
Cable crunch 4 sets
Pull through 4 sets
TRX knee ups 4 sets
Random leg raises 4 sets
Leg press up to 6x290

Not my finest effort but got it in to start 2019.

1/2 - 2,845 calories

Climbing gym 2 hours

Chins 4x8xBW+15
Commando pull ups 4x5xBW+15
Frenchies 2x1xBW+15
One arm hangs - one big spinning failure

Warm-up 15min
Circuit climbs 4x20 move easy route w/90sec rest
Board climbing 30min

There’s a new app that people at my gym are using to set problems on the mirriored woody I’ve posted here before. Messed around with some regs on it and we set some legit V3/V4 stuff. Might make this a more regular thing on limit move day.

Ok I’m getting worse at logging here. Mainly because it’s more of the same.

Checked in at 149.5 this morning.

I have a couple 2019 goals I posted in the big thread and one is a one arm pull up. I’m not sure what you might needed weighted chin wise as a % of bodyweight but id think it’s 75% plus. I’d imagine I’ll be around 145lbs when I try so that means I need like a BW+110 or higher chin up.

With that in mind I tested my max today. Maybe had 80 if I planned it better but this is a good starting point.

Chins
3xBW
2xBW+25
1xBW+45
1xBW+60
1xBW+70
1xBW+75

These are underhand, back last year when this was my #1 focus I think I did BW+85 neutral grip. So this probably isn’t too far from that as neutral is the easiest motion.

Press up to 5x110
One arm lat pulldowns
Incline DB bench up to 5x60s
Seated cable rows 4 sets
Supported One arm hangs 2x5sec

Calories lately

1/3 - 2,757
1/4 - 3,121
1/5 - 2,843

Quick climbing update - I still suck and can’t crimp anything. There are like 4 really perfect V4-V6 routes in the gym right now for me to train on crimp wise. I’m going to keep hangboarding but also work more max moves on these climbs into my regimen while they’re up.

Scapular strength and stability seems really critical for some of the bodyweight exercises like front lever or one arm pull-up. When would you start to transition to one arm work? Would you do negatives or perhaps assisted OAP with bands or a pulley?

My hopeful progression :

Unassisted one arm hang
One arm lockoff
One arm negative
Jumping one armer

Seeing how I can’t do a one arm hang on a bar without twisting like crazy I have a long way to go.

Are you hanging in an engaged position or with your shoulder near your ear? Have you tried doing any scapular pulls with either two hands or one? I find it much easier to resist rotation if I hang one arm with my shoulder enaged and my body in a hollow like position.

Having the strength in the lower traps/rhomboids to start the pulls properly is something I've been working on lately. I'm nowhere near an OAP but am trying to build towards a proper front lever. Long ways from that as well, but the lower traps/rhomboid work seems to be helping to initiate the pull and with my overall shoulder stability.

1/6 calories - 3,268

1/7 training - Climbing gym 2 hours

6x10sec w/2min rest 20mm hangboard
—Tough today

Warm up 15 minutes

Then I climbed basically a bunch of crimp problems

6xV2 w/60sec rest
6xV4 w/2min rest (sent 5/6)
3xV4+ w/3min rest (sent 1/3)
3xV5 w/3min rest (didn’t send this one)

This is the V2 route, it’s universally considered the toughest V1-V2 graded problem the gym has ever set. I do a bunch of different betas. In this one I skipped two crimps and did the high foot lock off move. Tried to video others but people kept getting in the way.

What’s both demoralizing and inspiring I guess is those last two climbs, I was with a group that is clearly like 3+ grades above me and they just walked up each. To see them handle the crimps and necessary body positions so easily gives me hope I can one day get there. In the end that’s my main goal, walk up V5’s and project 7+. Just amazing how easy they can make it look.

Higher level guys are amazing

Our goals are the same. Walk up 5’s and successfully project 7’s and higher. My former climbing partner is at that level having sent 10+ 7’s and some V8, but he isn’t a total master of 5’s yet (though he flashes them over half the time and often flashes 6’s)

Add a low start and that crimp problem you posted above looks like a V2 they would set in the Dedham gym. Total tightmare for its grade but great practice

This is pretty much my daily existence. It's pretty amazing watching people walk up problems or routes that feel impossible.

Everybody flails at stuff way below their flash or OS level at times. It is just part of the game. At around 2:30 in this video you can watch Adam Ondra fall off a 5+ (which I think is around V2) and a V3.



I thought you climbed that crimp problem really well in the video. Nice work!

font is sandbagged af, and such a classic is prob more polished too

V2 is more like a font 4a in my (only somewhat experienced) opinion

i've struggled with some 3a's in font and can boulder 5c-6b (that range is from consistently - perfect problem for me)

1/7 - 2,899 calories
1/8 - 2,992 calories

Leg Day
HBBS
6x175
2x5x155 tempo paused squats

RDLs
3x8x55s

Cable crunch 4 sets
Cable pull through 4 sets
Back extensions 3 sets
Leg raises 3 sets
Leg press 3 sets up to 12x230

1/9 - 3,022 calories

Climbing gym 2.5 hours

Chins 4x6xBW+20
Commando Pull-Ups 4x4xBW+15
Frenchie singles 2xBW+15
Campus
1-2-3-4-5-6
1-3-4-6-7
1-4

Then went to work on my crimp boulders. I’ve now sent all of them including what I’ll now deem a low V5. I had to break the beta to do it though so I’ll keep working it as set.

Solid session, happy to put that boulder down.

Been trying not to wipe me self out in every session. Try to leave 1-2 reps in the tank in the gym and calling it quits earlier when climbing. Don’t feel at beat up all the time which is nice.

Calories
1/10 - 2,859
1/11 - 3,106
1/12 - 2,857

1/10 Climbing Gym
Hangboard
7s/53s x5 x2 on 20mm edge
5s xBW+15 on 20mm edge

1/11

Upper Day

1/12
Climbing gym 3 hours
Sent a newly set V4, couldn’t link two moves on two different super crimp boulders in the V6-V8 color grade. All the good climbers say one is a V4 so I’m sad forreal.

Lower Day
HBBS 4x5x165
DB RDLs up to 6x80s
Leg press
Cable crunch
Lunges
Leg raises
Step ups

1/13
Weighted chins 4x4xBW+40
Press 4x6x95
TBar Rows
Incline DB bench 4x6x55s
Lat Pulldowns
Rear delt flys
Side raises

1/13 - 3,100 calories

Climbing gym 2 hours

So I’m resting after my workout this morning and these two videos hit my subscription feed





I love watching Magnus just flow up routes. But even better is how incredibly beautifully Kajsa climbs. Could watch it all day.

Anyways that made me remember I bought a harness 6 months ago I’ve never used. In fact I’ve never top roped outside 1-2 5.6 routes when a friend joined me at the gym over a year ago.

So I of course just hopped on the auto belay and tried my hand at it. The auto belay feels like it’s simultaneously lifting you up and also not holding you up at all. Really didn’t like that sensation. After onsighting a 5.10d and falling on another someone I know convinced me to try a 5.11a he could be belay me on. Fell on the 2nd to last (also the crux) move twice and was pumped out.

Fun stuff I’ll probably try and do this a couple times a month as it’s a nice break since my gym sucks at resetting boulders lately.

Roping up is a good way to build up some endurance and learn a few more technical skills that you don't need as much for bouldering. There is also a bit more strategy and tactics with rope climbing, which I personally enjoy. It is just a bigger puzzle to put together than a boulder problem.

If you take to rope climbing, I'd recommend learning to lead climb as soon as possible. In my experience the setting on lead routes in gyms tends to be better than their top rope sections. It also allows you to climb on a larger variety of terrain in the gym. The top rope routes tend to be slightly overhanging at their steepest.

It also sets you up nicely to transition to outside. In the gym, you'll develop some of the skills that you will need to safely climb outside. It is an easy way to meet more experienced partners who can show you how to climb safely outdoors. Clipping the chains 80 or 100ft off the ground, looking back and enjoying the view, is definitely a different experience than topping out a boulder problem!

I watch Kajsa climb all the time too. Love the female climbers in general

One of my favorite learning activities is to watch lead climbing comps now. A lot of the moves are in the V5-7 range and can translate to the limit bouldering I do. Seems to help me more than watching bouldering comps which are so crazy and weird and high level that I don't get a lot out of them

I also really enjoy the Eric Karlsson videos

1/14 - 2,747 calories

Climbing gym 2 hours

6x10sec w/2min rest 20mm
3x10sec w/2min rest 20mm

Gonna slowly work my way up to 2x6, half crimp felt good today.

Climbed circuits, did 4x the circuit below with 3min rest. Then messed around boulders set on the woody and sent a V3.



Don’t think I’ll get to work out next couple days, work stuff after hours.

Those tension holds are awesome. I really like y'all's circuit board setup. How steep is the angle on that thing? It is always hard to tell from video.

Also, it sounds like there was an aerobics or zumba class going on in the background haha

It’s 20deg, they lowered the spray wall next to it to 40 from 30 and good lord they makes even “easy” moves feel hard.

1/15 - 3,048 calories
1/16 - 3,030
1/17 - 2,696
1/18 - 2,993
1/19 - 3,394

Wasn’t able to train Tues/Wed.

Thursday climbed circuits and did some hangboarding.
Friday upper push

1/19
HBBS up to 5x185
—Form improving, burying these without as much good morning and knee cave.
DB RDLs up to 8x85s
Leg press up to 6x300
Cable crunch 4 sets
Smith machine lunges 3 sets
Goblet squats 3 sets

Last session for four days, work trip starting tomorrow. Probably good as my fingers are feeling iffy lately. Been crimping a lot lately, getting better at it but need to make sure my tendons have a chance to catch up.

1/19 PM Climbing gym 2.5 hours

Warmed up and put on my harness.

Onsight
5.10a
5.10b
5.10c
5.10d
5.11a

Then absolutely rushed a move on a 5.11b and then flew up it 2nd go. Oh well blew that one.

Moved upstairs to do some boulders being set on the Stōkt app on our tension board. First one is free feet 2nd is feet follows hands. 2nd move on the V2 is the toughest of any on these two problems. Gotta unwind your body on a pretty bad crimp.





Pretty wiped at this point but they had reset the big wall so I tried some boulders. Took me four attempts to do a V4 but cruised it once I figured out the most efficient beta. I’d have flashed it fresh but this was a better lesson on how important it is to climb correctly.

1/20 Hotel Gym Workout

Made it to the hotel early and gym looked nice so grabbed a quick 40min lift.

Weighted chins 3x6xBW+30
Seated DB Press up to 6x50s
Lat Pulldowns 5 sets
Standing DB Press 4 sets
Rear delt cable flys 4 sets
Band delt flys to failure

Ok now I mean it, no training until Thursday.

Basically treated the last week as a deload of sorts. Couldn’t exercise Mon-Wed and took the volume light once I got back.

I have one more bulking cycle left. Trying to get weight up to 156 by end of Feb.

Calories
1/21 - 4,308
1/22 - 5,278
1/23 - 2,044
1/24 - 2,931
1/25 - 2,837
1/26 - 2,948
1/27 - 3,400

1/27 Upper Day

Weighted Chins 4x4xBW+42.5
Press 4x6x100
Lat pulldowns 4x6
Incline DB 4x6x55s
Cable rows 4x6