I’d rate the crimps slightly under 10mm and slopey not in-cut. I’ve figured out the beta now linking it together will be tough.







Two other fails, one I think Jeff would really like, at least the slab start lol.



Hard to explain how tough the last two moves on this one are, might be a V7.



I did send some boulders today too lol. But only got vids of like V3’s.

The first thing that jumps out to me on the Pink V6 is that your hips are moving around a lot when you are grabbing holds. This is generally an indication that your COG is out of position. When your COG re-orients it is shock loading your fingers and requires a lot of strength to stay on the wall. Ideally, you can move your hips into position or closer to being in position before you make the move.

The first move you make is a good example of what to do. You move your hips left and over the foot hold. When you grab the hold there is very little movement. Nice job.

The second and third moves are quite a bit different in terms of hip position. After you latch the hold your hips move around. For the second move it seems like you need to be a bit higher and perhaps a bit more to the left. You may need to slide your foot on the left side of the hold and press hard with it to push yourself up a tad. Tough to say exactly. A trick you can use to just pull onto the hold you are going to and find the position that feels best. This is where you want to be.

The third move your hips move way to the left and out away from the wall. It looks like you may want to move your feet and re-position before moving to that hand hold. Have you tried that move with your left foot on the second big foothold?

The next moves looks pretty good I think. The one you fell on it looks like a little more extension through the leg and tension with the right arm will do the trick.

The upper section of the climb it seems like you just need to move your feet a bit more and get into better positions before moving. Did you try using one of the footholds as a backstep to hit the last hold?It may be too far away to use the lower ones for that, IDK.

That looks like a tough, but well set problem!

Overall, I think you are climbing well. My general feedback would be 1) be willing to move your feet more before initiating moves to get into the best possible positions and 2) really focus on keeping tension when extended. On the last problem at 0:10 and 0:16 your right leg is not at full extension. I think that thing will go if you are able to completely extend the leg and point your toe. Ideally, you will have a line of tension driving from your toe to hand that is pulling. Your legs, core, lats should all be tight like they would be if you were doing a front lever or an L-sit.

Thanks agree completely about the tension through the entire body. I know of drills to work on this I just haven’t been doing them. I think a good indicator of improvement would be keeping that right foot on the purple problem on the big move.

Very interesting stuff re: regripping. What’s funny is on the pink that was me really feeling like I was driving my hips into the wall on the first couple moves. Lovely how feel vs reality can be so far off. I’ll have to over exaggerate to hit the proper positions.

Hahah I love that whole climb, excellent. The pressing move looks particularly fun

One weird thing that's helped me recently which I should have learned a long time ago (and no idea if this would help you with the purple route) Is to drive the front of my foot both down into the hold and forward into the wall. I find that a straight legged kicking feeling activates my core and keeps me on the wall when other cues weren't working. Perhaps this is a beginner concept that I'm just picking up on

So I have been working out and logging calories just haven’t felt like posting here. Between hand and knee my workouts have been half assed at best.

11/17 - 3655 calories

11/18 Upper day

Weighted Chins
6xBW
6xBW+18
6xBW+40
9xBw+18
10xBW

DB bench
6x40s
6x55s
6x65s
10x55s
10x45s

TBar Row
8x70
8x95
6x120
6x130
8x120
11x95

Seated DB Press
8x30s
6x40s
6x50s
9x40s
11x35s

Seated Cable Rows 4 sets

I definitely don’t drive hard with my toes, maybe I overdid the quiet feet thing in beginner drills who knows.

Gonna do a technique session later today working on pushing with the feet and body tension.

Quiet feet is good. Once your feet are on the footholds, you need to be really aggressive with them all the way through movements. Here is a good drill to play around with on your warm-ups or circuits.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYlaFzuotoE

8/18 - 3,596 calories

Climbing gym 2.5 hours

Waste of a session. Set out to do drills and while I did do some it wasn’t very organized nor do I feel like I got better at all today. I probably need to stop climbing on Sunday and just do Mon/Wed/Thurs/Sat for all kinds of good reasons.

11/19 - 2,671 calories
11/20 - 2,626 calories
11/21 - 2.716 calories

11/19 - climbing gym 2.5 hours

Of note did 5x10sec 1x9sec 20mm half crimp hangboard

11/20 - lower Day
Squats up to 5x185 then 2x8x135
Hack squat 4 sets
Leg press 4 sets
Calf raises 4 sets
Cable crunch 4 sets

11/21 - climbing gym 4 hours

3x8xBW+15 PUs
3x8xBW chins on hangboard
4x8xBW commando PUs
Campus 1-4-5-7-8 x2
Campus V1’s x4

Failed this extension of a V1



Climbed a lot of lower graded problems focusing on footwork and flow. Then tried some hard stuff but was pretty wiped out.

Awesome campusing. I'd like to think I'll be able to do that eventually, looks fun as hell. Finishing on that sloper would have been epic.

So what’s nuts is a dude in the gym campused that purple from the bottom undercling, one of the more impressive things I’ve seen lately.

Great series I’ve been reading today culminating with these very relevant to me finger strength rules.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/...th_rules-11455

Campusing that purple is super sick. Pretty awesome

I'm reading the series now.

This pic is particularly crazy. Even Ondra cannot do this:



Wonder how hard this dude is climbing with that level of open handed crimp strength

Yea reading about Ondra vs Megos it’s amazing how much stronger Alex is but how much more efficient Adam climbs. Both incredible 9b+ climbers but do it much differently. If Megos can improve efficiencies he has a chance to be the best ever.

Ondra doing the Dawn Wall in a week and almost onsighting the Salathe Wall is mind boggling. Not only do you have to have the strength and fitness to do tons of pitches with hard moves, but you also need skills on a huge variety of terrain. Those climbs have all sorts of different sized cracks, slabs, off-withs, dihedrals etc. Not to mention you are dealing with gear placements, exposure and big runnouts. His skill and experience moving over stone is something else!

Yup. I heard Ondra was hanging with 1.1x BW on a crimp with one hand, and Megos 1.3x. That being said is Megos really stronger in other ways, or much better on small holds? I haven't seen evidence in that regard. I also wonder how much of an advantage Ondra's height and reach are. He's just so far ahead of everyone else in terms of sport climbing sends

So I easily finished this during my warm up tonight. Who would have guessed being fresh matters?

Thanksgiving (and Friday) left me about 5lb heavier but still climbed a bunch today.

One send and one project. I cannot figure out this next move. People are using the chip on the volume but for the life of me I don’t understand how.

The V4 has been giving people tons of trouble but I’ve figured it out nicely and can handle the two move crux of the long reach then you build up a ton of tension and have to really dig that left foot in.

On the V4 you really look like you are engaging your feet. Nice work!

11/22 - 4,860 calories
11/23 - ~5,000 calories (didnt bother adding up)
11/24 - 1,900 calories

Between travel, climbing and a 5hr A&M game I failed to eat yesterday.

11/25 - Upper Day

Light headed throughout. Low cals yesterday and again this morning left me feeling faint.

Weighted chins
6xBW
6xBW+8kg
6xBW+20kg @11
9xBW+8kg
10xBW

DB bench up to 6x65s
TBar Row up to 6x130
Cable pec flys 4 sets
Rear delt cable flys 4 sets
Seated cable row 3 sets

Need to EAT.

December starting weight - 148 (+2 in November) - goal for end of December is 150-151.

Still climbing/lifting here’s my schedule, settled on climb 4x and lift 4x. Only been spending about 2 hours in the climbing gym, first hour working out or Hangboarding then 2nd hour specific climbing stuff.

Mon - Hangboard + Technique/Circuits
Tue - Lower Day
Wed - Pull + Campus + Core
Thurs - Hangboard + max power
Fri - Upper Push focus
Sat - Project AM Legs PM
Sunday - Upper pull focus

I’ve done four Hangboard sessions so far, all 6x10s on the 20mm w/2min rest. Seems to be getting slightly easier. Keeping my index finger half crimped vs open is the toughest part.

Upper Day 12/2

Weighted chins
6xBW
6xBW+18
5xBW (failed 6th) +46.5
10xBW+18
10xBW

Seated DB press up to 6x50s
TBar Rows 5 sets
Bench 3x9x125
Lat Pulldowns 5 sets

My index finger does drag a bit when I am half crimping. It is shorter than the other two, so I suppose this is natural? My pinky certainly isn't half crimped.

Here is one of the Anderson bros doing a set of repeaters. His indexes are almost totally open. Mine aren't that open, but they are not fully half crimped either. I am guessing this isn't a huge deal either way and is going to vary somewhat based on the differences in finger length.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BQ7-uOHF...on_share_sheet

RE: schedule. That is a lot of strength and power work. Really pay attention to your fingers, shoulders, elbows etc to make sure nothing gets angry.

I’ve cut way back on volume so my elbows actually don’t hate me for once. My climbing sessions have gotten much shorter and focused. In the gym I’m trying to keep intensity up on 1-2 compound movements per session. Overall my gym sessions are lacking but I have to concede somewhere if I want to climb 4x/week.

Weight was 149.5 this morning. Up ~8lb from lowest point. Going to take this to the mid/high 150s by end of February then reassess.

Another week down. Traveled for work so took a few days off. Probably had a 4,000 calorie cheat meal in there at a company event too so that was nice.

Climbed 3+ hours yesterday at a sister gym. They set much more technical and it exposes me every time. I swear I’m a good 1.5 grades weaker there. Sent basically nothing over V4.

12/09 Upper Day

Weighted chins

6xBW
6xBW+18
4xBW+50 (didn’t even try 5th sigh)
9xBW+18
11xBW

Press
6x85
6x95
6x100
9x85

TBar Rows 4x8x95
Bench 4x9x125
Lat Pulldowns 4 sets
Side raises 6 sets

How much climbing volume are you putting in at V3 and V4 now?

Just wondering because I am taking kind of an opposite approach of you. Right now my goal is to get way way more experience at V3-4 with minimal training on the side and only projecting routes that I feel are strength builders to project

I’d like to do more training like you are but apart from a little hanging and PT I just feel too heavy and weak to push it, whereas I can climb pretty hard twice a week (+ diet) and make continuous progress that way

Hmm I am pretty sure my index stays half crimped and pinky is open, but my index finger is shorter only than the middle finger, virtually the same length as my ring fingers. I’m also pretty high up when doing this since I’m only hanging from a 90 degree lockoff right now to spare my shoulders + train my upper back