Last day of the meso. I’ll post the plan for now until thanksgiving sometime this week.

W7D7

AM home

4x Underhand chins 7,5,5,5xBW+55 (199.2 TSW)
4x Rope supported one armer 1,1,1,1 x36” knot
3x One arm negatives 1,1,1xBW

PM Climbing gym

20mm half crimp x28sec @9.5
Bouldering 40min
3x incline DB curls 31,14,8x15’s
3x cable curls 11,10,8x60

Thought the gym wouldn’t be busy mid afternoon on a Sunday and boy was I wrong. Wanted to try my V7 project on the Kilter board but a group of folks were on it. Instead sent a V6 m-V8 first go today after a couple attempts the other day. I’d call it a solid V4. Worked a legit V7ish boulder requiring a really exact heel hook that kept popping.

The 20mm half crimp was a bit of a test. At my peak 18 months ago I could do an easy 30 seconds (of course I was doing like 6s holds with BW+50 or so) so wanted to see where I’m at. Not awful but plenty of room for improvement.

Deload and week 1 of my new mesocycle are in the books.

Managed to tweak my lower back on BB RDLs this week but otherwise felt good.

Sent a V7 (Who Brought the Rocket?) on the Kilter board today but I’d call it a soft V6. Still my first though. Plan is to send 20 problems in each grade at 30deg. Easily complete V4’s now onto V5’s.

I’ll start logging workouts going forward.

W1D7

AM home gym

3x Underhand chins 7,5,5xBW+50 @8.5 RPE
3x Rope one armers 3/3,3/2,x22” knot
2x One arm negatives 1,1xBW

PM climbing gym

3x6sec 20mm half crimp BW+25
45min 30deg Kilter
—Sent V7!
Incline DB curls 23,11,7,7x17.5’s

V7 on the board is stout. Way to go!!!!

Thanks man I was stoked to get it for sure, but it’s Uber soft. Still a win is a win!

30deg seems to be my sweet spot. I think it’s a decent angle to rack up a bunch of volume without interfering with my hypertrophy goals.

Does it not interfere with your hypertrophy goals since it isn't stressing your pulling muscles as much as steeper angles?

I haven't climbed on the Kilter at 30 yet, but generally really like that angle. I spent a good part of the off-season climbing on the Tension Board at 30 and also on my gym's big 30 degree wall. I find that this angle still allows me to use some of the smaller more fingery holds that I am not strong/good enough to use when the angle gets 40 degrees or steeper.

I just think it’s less fatiguing for my total body so I don’t feel as beat up. A 45min session at like 60deg is prettt damn taxing.

W2D1 Rest

W2D2

9/28

AM Home gym (2 RiR/8.5 RPE)

3x Underhand chins 12,8,7xBW+20 (166.7 TSW)
2x Overhand chins 7,5xBW
3x Rope one armers 5/4,6/5,6/4x9” knot
4x concentration curls 4 sets x13’s

PM Climbing gym

3x 20mm half crimp 3x6sec BW+25
45min Kilter Board (sent 4 V5’s)
-Stretch Armstrong
-u don’t need your right thumb
-Szechuan Sauce
-Pluto is not a planet! (Or is it?)

Been researching a handful of outdoor boulders in Austin. I’ll try to find some videos of others doing them but think I’ve found 3 really nice looking V3/V4’s to try and climb this season.

W2D3

AM Apartment gym (2 RiR)

3x 30deg Incline DBs 10,9,7x50’s
1x 30deg incline DBs 10x40’s (downset)
3x Jewett raises 3 sets x20
3x Seated DB press 13,8,7x25’s
3x Cable curls 14,8,6x30
2x DB side raises 13,10x10’s

PM Gym

3x Seated leg curls 12,11,10x100
3x Smith calves 11,10,20x185
3x CGBP 12,9,7x75
3x Smith squats 12,8,7x95
1x leg press 12x90 (7/3/2)

W2D4 rest

W2D5

Climbing gym (2 RiR)

3x Neutral chins 10,8,7xBW+25
3x Single arm Pulldowns 12/12,11/11,11/11x55
3x Lat prayers 14,11,9x70
4x Cable curls 25,14,10,9x120

Bouldering 50 minutes
-Sent a V6-V8 like 5th go. Probably was a V4+.

W2D6

AM (2 RiR)

3x Flat DB bench 10,8,6x55’s
1x Flat DB bench 12x40’s
4x Jewett cable raises 10,7x20 10,8x10
3x Seated DB press 12,10,8x22.5’s
3x DB side raises 15,11,9x10’s
4x JM Press to CGBP 4 sets x50

PM

BB RDLs 9,8x145
Smith calves 15,12,10x165
Smith squat 12,8,7x115
Leg Press 16,12x90

W2D7

AM Home @8.5 RPE

3x Underhand chins 6,5,xBW+55 (200.4 TSW)
3x Rope one armers 3/4,3/3,2/3x22”knot
3x Negatives 3x1

PM Climbing gym

3x6sec 20mm half crimp xBW+30
50min kilter 30deg all 6c/V5
—Keep it Tight
—GrrrrrPOW!!!
—Pinch N Crimp
—strong like beetle
—Expecto Patronum
—pin(ch) point accuracy
—Advanced Crimping Fundamentals

I’ve now either graduated to 6c+/V5 or 7a/V6.

Nice !!

The local gym just got Kilter board so it will be a regular part of my training for the next few months

Nice! Which size? Mine is the 12x12 but I have access to the larger one at a different gym. Let’s get a little friendly comp going!!

12x12 and fully adjustable

You are much stronger than me so you win the comp

I am following a rehab/S&C program from C4HP right now so I am definitely not trying to push grades at the moment.

W3D1 rest
W3D2

AM home (1-2 RiR)

3x Underhand chins 12,8,7xBW+25
2x Overhand chins 9,6xBW
3x rope one armer 6/5,5/5,4/5 x9” knot
4x DB Curls 4 sets x13’s

PM Climbing gym

3x6sec 20mm half crimp xBW+30

50min 30deg Kilter
—elderbeast V6.0 (7a/V6) - flash
—Advanced crimping fundamentals 3 (7a/V6) - 5th go

Worked two others I’ll send next time when I’m fresh.

You look to be climbing quite well in that video. Set your sights higher than V3/V4 this season!

I’m good at climbing with momentum and efficiently on the board. My maximal finger strength is super lacking right now. Have another 4-6 weeks to bring it up a bit though. Also need to work three finger drag more.

W3D3

AM Gym (1-2 RiR)

3x Seated leg curls 13,9,9x105
3x Smith squat 11,8,7x125
2x Leg press 15,11x100
3x Smith calves 17,10,8x175

PM Apartment gym (1-2 RiR)

3x 30deg Incline DBs 13,8,7x50’s
1x 30deg Incline DBs 12x40’s (downset)
4x Jewett cable raises 12,6x20 11,10x10
3x Seated DB press 14,9,7x25’s
3x DB side raises 16,9,11x10’s

W3D4 rest

W3D5

Climbing gym (1-2 RiR)

3x Neutral chins 11,8,6xBW+25
3x Single arm Pulldowns 11,9,8x60
3x Lat prayers 13,11,9x180
4x Incline DB curls 20,9,8,6x17.5’s
1x Cable curls (myo reps) 14,6,6x30

50min bouldering
Flashed V6-V8 (V3-)
Sent V6-V8 (V4+) 4th go
Sent V6-V8 (V4) ~8th go (2nd sesh)
Sent V6-V8 (V3+) 2nd go

W3D6

AM Climbing gym (1-2 RiR)

3x Flat DB bench 11,8,7x55’s
1x Flat DB bench 11x45’s (downset)
4x Jewett cable raises 4 sets x10
3x Seated DB press 14,9,8x25’s
4x DB side raises 4 sets x10’s
4x JM press to CGBP 4 sets x50

PM Gym (2 RiR)

3x BB RDLs 11,9,7x145
3x Smith calves 16,12,9x175
3x Smith squats 12,8,7x125
2x Leg press 18,14x100

W3D7

AM Home @9-9.5

3x Underhand chins 6,5,4xBW+60 (206.0 TSW)
3x Rope one armer 3,3,2 x27” knot
3x One arm negatives 1,1,1xBW

PM Climbing gym

3x6sec 20mm half crimp xBW+30

40min Moonboard 40deg 2017 Masters

Flashed “Banana Bread” 6A+
Flashed “EZPZlemonsqueezy” 6A+
2nd go “Han Solo Still Lives” 6b
Flashed “Dynamic Stretch (3Q) 6b+
Flashed “In Cold Blood” 6b+
3rd go “Double Royale” 6c (video below)



Moonboard so much harder than Kilter. True grades though which is super nice. I haven’t been on one in years and I don’t know if I ever sent a 6c before so happy to put this one down. Flailed on a few others though.

6xBW+60 @9.5 is a WR I think!

W4D1 rest

W4D2

AM (1 RiR)

3x Underhand chins 11,8,7xBW+30
2x Overhand chins 8,6xBW
3x Rope one armers 6/5,5/4,5/3 x12” knot

PM

Tension block Recruitment pulls 3x5sec 1min rest
20mm half crimp
25mm two finger pocket
10mm full crimp

DB curls 4 sets x18’s 2 sets x13’s

Work prevented any climbing today. Likely for the best since I’ve been a bit beat up.

Mish mosh of a workout today. Hamstrings are still worked from Saturday’s RDLs somehow. Shoulders not 100% either so yea, kinda beat up all over.

W4D3 (1 RiR)

4x 30deg Incline DBs 9,6,6,6x55’s
3x Smith calves 17,10,8x185
3x Smith squats 12,8,6x135
3x Leg press 17,12,12x110

On a positive note I’m really liking all the leg exercises from this mesocycle. Quads are getting huge pumps each session.

W4D4 rest + tension block recruitment pulls

W4D5 (1 RiR)

3x neutral chins 11,9,8xBW+25
3x single arm Pulldowns 12x60 12,11x50
3x lat prayers 15,11,11x180
3x Incline DB curls 26,8,7x17.5’s
2x Cable curls 17,18x30

50min bouldering

Flashed 3 new V4-V6 (probably V1-V2- each really don’t get the setting lately there’s no reason I should walk up three new sets in this grade)

60deg Kilter
Flashed “Jug Skin” (V4)
Flailed on a bunch of other 6b’s. Super hard at 60 degrees. Makes you laugh at the crowdsourced grades at 30deg. Also tons harder than 6c’s on the 40deg moonboard.

Super strange DOMS in my glutes at the moment. Not really sure what’s up but made some substitutions the PM session accordingly.

W4D6 (0-1 RiR)

AM Climbing Gym

3x Flat DB bench 8,7,6x60’s
1x Flat DB bench 13x45’s
4x Jewett cable raises 4 sets x10
4x Seated DB press 13,10,9,8x25’s
4x DB side raises 17,10,10,8x10’s
4x JM press to CGBP 4 sets x50

PM Gym

2x Seated leg curls 11,10x110
3x Smith calves 14,12,11x185
3x Smith squat 12,8,5x145
3x Seated leg extensions 15,12,9x50

This might be my last workout of this mesocycle. Turns out climbing hard 3x a week and adding in leg volume may get someone overreached a bit sooner than planned. Getting some elbow tendonitis which is typically a sign to back off a bit.

W4D7

AM Home @9.5
3x Underhand chins 5,4,3xBW+65 (212.0 TSW) - Failed 6th rep dumb to go for it.
4x Rope one armers 1,1,1,1x36” knot
2x Rope one armers 3/2, 2/2x20” knot

PM Climbing gym

4x6sec 20mm half crimp BW+35

30deg Kilter 50min
Sent “Big moves small dudes” V5 - 3rd session
Sent The Big Push V6 - 2nd session

Stoked to send the first one on my first go of this session. Flailed on some other true V6’s but think I can finish a few others fresh.