There's a (slab) V5 like this at my gym where if they just replaced the top crimp with a much worse crimp and removed one of the foot chips and another of the hand holds, it would actually be a super fun and respectable 5. But as is, is like 3/3+ with only one hard move lol

Bouldering selection is kind of limited at my main gym and I've found removing holds (as you once suggested) to be a pretty good method

5/13 - 2,068 calories

Looks like I might dodge all extracurricular activities minus one this week. Also made it to a climbing gym. Not sure how to rate it, they didn’t rent chalk bags so I just went without all session. Biggest issue is on like my fourth warm up I skinned the back of my left hand badly. Took like an hour to get it to stop bleeding completely lol.

Was able to walk up everything V4 and under which was nice. Walked up a climb rated V5- which was like a bunch of V3+ moves on crimps and one V5 crux move. Fell off the finish 3x on a legit V5. Missed the crux 2x on a V6 that I’d say was slightly soft for the grade. All things considered if I had more time and didn’t **** my hand up early I’d say it was a solid session.

Bouldering area at this place kinda sucked. Definitely more of a sport climbing spot. Gym area was decent and even had a tread wall.

Overall good day for H&F since it’s tough to get net positive days when traveling for work typically.

5/14 - 2,248 calories

Was able to work a free guest pass to an LA Fitness by my office so got a nice bro workout in today.

Upper W4D7
Paused Incline BB 10,10,10,9x110
Pec Dec 4 sets
TBar Rows 4 sets
Seated Hammer press 4 sets
NG Chins 3 sets
Machine side Delts 4 sets
DB side raises 4 sets
DB curls 4 sets
Cable bar curls 4 sets

Don’t foresee any workout tomorrow due to scheduling, same with Thursday. Body could use a couple days off for once anyways.

Diet week 10

Average calorie intake: 2,194
Expected TDEE: 2,800
Projected weightloss: 1.21 (11.24 overall)

Pretty dang solid for a work travel week. Took today off from training and will do the same tomorrow.

Lol dude someone asked me to record them sending this route so they could gram it.

lololol gotta love the internet

My ham/glute aggravation didn’t really get any better during my trip, coupled with sitting a lot and walking weird I definitely hurt something in my hip. It’s better today vs yesterday when it was quite painful during climbing.

I’ve needed to both take a little time back from leg training and re-think my approach here anyways so this is a nice forced break. I think going forward I’ll take a more climbing beneficial lower body training approach vs hitting weekly volume landmarks in the gym. Should help with overall fatigue while also helping with climbing performance. I’ll be reading/listening to a lot of things this week to formulate a strategy.

Gym wise I’m debating going to a push/pull/legs split vs upper/lower. I’ll be lowering my volume a lot in June and focusing on climbing mileage at my newly settled bodyweight. This should help resensitize a bit and reduce overall fatigue to see if it can translate to stronger climbing performance.

5/19 - 1,988 calories

Upper W5D5

NG Chins 11,10,8xBW
Smith High Incline Press 14,12,11,10x115
Pec Dec 4x19-20
Lat Pulldowns 4x20-23
Seated DB press 12,10,9,9x35s
Straight arm Pulldowns 3x12

Will do arms and delt work in the AM and see if I like splitting it up. I’m generally quite worked by end of compound movements and have been questioning the efficacy of my accessory work.

5/20 - 1,982 calories

Met up with the boss for a couple drinks. Still managed to operate within calorie goals just fine. Going to experiment with some lower carb breakfast meals as I’m working from home now and I don’t feel very energized lately after my typical meal.

AM

DB side raises 4 sets
DB curls 4 sets
Lateral raises 3 sets
Ez bar curls 3 sets
Cable side raises 3 sets
Cable curls 2 sets

Not sure how I feel about breaking up the volume but gonna give it a few more tries. Also with hip/glute issue gonna go push/pull and see if I like that better than upper lower.

PM

Hangboard 4x7sec BW+25 20mm edge - hard
One arm hangs with shrug 4x5
Wrist roller 10lbs 3x72
Wrist curls 3 sets
Hollow body holds 3x45sec
Hard planks 3x30sec

Debating going to repeaters after listening to a podcast on Hangboard protocol. Basically all my training is just one constant adjustment after I read or hear something compelling.

Putting this here for my own record keeping.

First attempt went really well

5 servings liquid egg whites
1 jalapeño chicken sausage
3 clementines

The size of the egg white omelette and sausage was enormous. Total meal calories are only 380 and it was very tasty. I can even get some veggies in it as well to up the flavors. Going to try to get my carbs from ~300/day down to 125-150 by end of next week and see how I respond.

I eat eggs pretty much every day. I usually do one whole egg and then add egg whites. The whole egg adds quite a bit of flavor for the calories IMO. The veggies are where it is at. Saute some onions, peppers, mushrooms for a bit, then add some frozen chopped spinach. Let it cook for a couple of minutes then add your eggs. It is is an enormous amount of nutrient dense food for very little calories. Adding a little bit of salsa/pico or low fat/fat free feta is also nice.

Yea I love eggs, have one a day right now with dinner over rice and ground beef. Experimented with low fat, sufficient protein and high carb dieting this cycle and think it went fine. First thing back in the diet will be eggs.

Had a little weight woosh today, woke up at 143.1. Will probably continue to track down as I lower carbs and raise fats and proteins the next week or so. Already gone from 300 to 225g carb a day looking to take it down to 100-125 a day during my deload week next week.

5/22 - 1,955 calories (225c/161p/43c)

I’m essentially a machine diet wise right now. Have all my go to meals and it’s easy to tweak to hit whatever macro set up I want. I’m never hungry and have enough energy in the gym.

Also been walking 90-120min a day. Super slow/light but good to get out and around a bunch since I’m wfh now.

Diet Week 11

Average calorie intake: 2,010
Expected TDEE: 2,600
Projected weightloss: 1.18 (12.42 overall)

Great week of dieting but dropping my TDEE way down for a couple factors. Might just be crazy and I’ll woosh another couple lbs of water by the weekend and have to reassess. I have veins coming out of my pelvic region so I know I’m getting to that ~12% mark. One week left then a two month diet break to hold around 11-12% fat and reevaluate.

Last two days of training, glute still not even close to 100%, couldn’t do TBar or 1arm BB Rows today. Hip doing a lot better might be able to light climb tomorrow.

Push W5D7
Paused incline bench 10,11,10x105
Pec Dec 17,15,12x80
Push ups 24,17xBW
DB side raises 4 sets
Smith incline press 10,7x105 12,9x95
Side raises 8x

Pull W5D7
Chins 12,10,10xBW
Lats 3x12x90
Straight arm pulldowns 2 sets
Reverse Pec Dec 4 sets
Chest supp. 45deg DB Rows 4x15x25s

How are you calculating your TDEE?

Essentially I look at scale movement over a long period vs what I’ve consumed during that time.

For example I’m down 3.8lbs this month (rolling averages), while averaging ~2,200 calories a day. 3.8lbs is a 13,300 calorie deficit which over 31 days converts to 429/day. Therefore I’d put my TDEE at 2629ish.

5/23 - 2,009 calories (186c/172p/62f)

AM

DB side raises 4 sets
Alternating DB curls 3 sets
Band side raises 4 sets
Concentration curls 3 sets
EZ bar curls 3 sets

PM

Hangboard 4x7sec 20mm BW+25 - medium!
One arm hang with scapular shrug 3x5

Climb - 90min - did every V2-V3 in the gym.

Welp glute and hip definitely not 100%, will keep taking it light and just work on mileage over intensity on the wall.

Lower carb days not an issue yet. Only problem was fried riced cauliflower yesterday and good lord almost threw up. Otherwise pretty easy.

5/24 - 2,005 calories (156c/173p/75f)

Push W6D3

Press 9,9,8x90
Paused Incline bench 8,9,9,8x105
Cable incline flys 4 sets
Pushups 25,15xBw
DB side raises 4 sets
Seated DB press 10,8,7x30s
Bent over DB raises 4 sets

5/25 - 1,948 calories (130c/188p/75f)

Climbing gym 2 hours

5/25 - 4x7sec BW+25 20mm med/hard
1x5x5sec repeater 20mm edge - medium

Light climbing, hip doing better. Ham/glute issue aggravated by prolonged sitting which sucks because I’ll be driving 8 hours next weekend.

5/26 - 3,704 calories

First cheat meal in a while, in fact I think first say over 2,300 calories in 3 weeks. This was 3,300 calories in a 90min window. Apps, burgers, beer, hotdogs, cake(s), and ice cream. Stomach didn’t love me after but man do I feel awesome today.

Pull W6D5

NG Chins 11,9,8xBW
One arm Hammer row 4x16x70
Lat Pulldowns 3x20-24
Straight arm Pulldowns 2x16
Rope face pulls 4 sets
Alternating DB Curls 6 sets
Seated DB side raises 3 sets
Cable curls 4 sets
Band side laterals 3 sets

5/27 - 1,906 calories (128c/185p/71f)

Climbing gym 3 hours

4x7sec BW+25 20mm medium - getting better
Repeater 20mm edge - 1x6x6on/4off med/hard
3x6 one arm scapular retraction
3x15 straight leg raises
3x30sec hollow body holds
3x45sec planks

3x20 move ez circuit



3x15 move tension ez circuit

3x15-25 move ez tech wall circuit (failed all 3)

Had some energy so tried a couple problems in the V6-V8 range. This one I’m so close to and would be an awesome send. Don’t know why I never tried it until today but it’ll problem come down soon.



Super nice boulder. Sit start to barndoor gaston to sloper lock off then a tension move to get the left foot onto a decent chip.

Very nice. That definitely looks like at least a solid 5.

Also impressive circuit. Can't imagine how good that is for technique. Also reminds me how bad I am at crossing moves lol

Any idea what your weight goal is?

You mean my ideal bodyweight? Or how much I wanna hang on the 20mm?

I'm really jealous of the circuit board you have available! Not a single gym here has one. I just have to try and find traverses among the problems put up which ends up looking like this:

https://youtu.be/KUwzzF7GPRg

Sometimes I can find them at the intensity level I'm looking for, but often not.

That pink boulder looked like a very nice problem!

It’s at 25deg now but can be lowered to 45deg which makes life insanely difficult.

Even better that it is adjustable! It makes me dream of having a home wall.

Lol my bad. I meant what BW you’re shooting for. I assume the answer to the 2nd question is, a ****load

Short term I’m already there...144lbs at ~12% BF. Essentially where I was 9 months ago lol womp womp. Mid 30’s natty realities and all.

By year’s end probably 140 at 10%. But 12 weeks is enough diet wise and that ends Thursday. Now for an 8 week diet break at breakeven or slight surplus then get the last 3-4lbs of fat off.

Diet break allows me to do less overall volume in the gym to maintain LBM while upping my climbing mileage and training a good bit.

5/28 - 1,855 calories (98c/186p/73f)

Push W6D7
Paused incline bench 12,12,10,9x105
Pec dec 16,11x90 12,x80
Push ups 22,18
DB side raises 4 sets
Band Side raises 4 sets
Seated DB press 10,9x35s 9,9x30s

Cruising these workouts, breaking them into push/pull vs upper seems to be making it much easier to get the volume in.

140 Seems like a good weight for a climber of your height and build. Very nice work on the diet result. I have been going through my 6 weeks maintenance (basically unplanned) and am trying to right the ship and get down to 155 or low 150's now/8-10% BF.

What has surprised me is how much more I've been able to eat than expected during the maintenance period, without any weight gain. A side effect of regular climbing, perhaps