Trying to start logging consistently again let’s see how it lasts.

12/10 - 149p/329c/85f = 2,619 calories

Want to average ~3,100cal/day through end of December. Today wasn’t a good start.

Climbing gym 2.5 hours
Hangboard 6x10sec with 2min rest on 20mm edge.

From there did a bunch of circuits. Failed to do any technique work because I enjoy being stuck at the V4 level apparently. Sigh. Logging will at least hold me accountable, or shame me into actually following a program.

The circuits are a good time to work technique! Actual on the rock endurance has a huge technical component to it. You could practice only gripping the holds as lightly as possible (this is a weakness for me given that I mostly boulder), finding a good pace and rhythm so that your movement only stalls on rest holds. Doing sections of high tension and low tension is worth practicing as well if you have any plans to route climb in the future.

You can also do stuff like heavy feet, practicing foot swaps, using only tiny foot holds etc. There are all sorts of ways you can go about it. As long as you are paying attention and being mindful of how you are moving and reflecting what you can do better you should be getting something out of it.

Another option might be to practice 2-3 anti-style boulders for every 1 boulder that suits you. Do the anti-style boulders first when you are fresh and can focus. It will be a struggle that is going to involve some flailing. The upside is biggest gains are always to be found in areas we suck at!

Circuits do a great job of exposing technique deficiencies especially as I get more and more fatigued. The problems my gym sets tend to have too many weird moves but I can always replace one or two to keep the flow up and have more of a real world application.

Anti style is a good idea, I shy away from them when I should be embracing them to get better.

Great advice

Do you use a moon board much cottonseed?

Yes. I use it a good bit in the off-season. I haven't climbed on the new hold set that much since I have access to a Tension board that I use a decent bit.

Board climbing is good for me because it crushes my soul. My finger strength isn't great, so I keep trying to improve at straight on power climbing. The boards are excellent tools for that. As an example, I have never sent a V5 on the MoonBoard or Tension Board but have climbed something like 35 climbs V5 or harder outdoors.

12/11 - 165p/350c/92f = 2.865 calories

Lower Day

HBBS
8x135
8x155
8x175
8x155
10x135

Walking lunges 4x24
DB RDLs 8x40s,50s,60s,50s,40s
Calf raises 4 sets
Cable crunch 4 sets
Leg press 20x90,160

Wow

Looking forward to starting with some V2 then

Are these boulders sandbagged or something? 35 V5 is a Ton to have not done one on moonboard

I think this will be a weakness of mine too. These short overhanging super cruxey boulders are pretty close to anti style for me (would only be worse if in the cave)

I like steep climbing outdoors. We have a lot of it in the Southeast so I get a lot of practice. I think it is the jumping/foot cutting that I struggle with. Which, of course, is common with board climbing. There is a definite skill element to jumping/foot cutting that I am lacking.

I have no idea how hard or soft the boulders are. They generally feel hard to me haha! I typically pick 3-4 problems that I will use as limit boulders or perhaps a few that I can do doubles or triples on if the gym is crowded. My climbing goals are all outside focused so I am just looking for indoor problems that hit the training stimulus I am seeking. The gym I climb in is sort of old and dingy with a color system to represent difficulty. There are no V-grades, just colors that correspond to beginner, intermediate, advanced and expert.

Steve McClure talks about having no idea what grades he is climbing indoors here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luTMrL0I1PA&t=89s

12/12 - 167p/362c/91f = 2,905 calories

Climbing gym 2.5 hours

Pull-ups 4x8xBW+15
Chins on hangboard 4x8
Commando pull ups 4x8

Climbed for 90min. Sent a 20 move circuit and a couple new v4’s one was a flash. Worked hard moves on other boulders. Traveling tomorrow so won’t get to do my limit session this week.

12/13 - 2,573 calories
12/14 - 2,857 calories

Aggravated something in my front delt, didn’t impact this workout but has been getting worse since Wednesday and I didn’t even work out yesterday.

Upper Day
DB press up to 7x50s
Seated cable row 5 sets
DB bench up to 6x60s
Lat Pulldowns 4 sets
Pec Dec 4 sets
Face pulls 4 sets
Side raises 4 sets
Band rear delt flys 4 sets

Didn’t feel great to hang from a bar, we will see if I can climb tomorrow.

12/15

Climbing gym - 3 hours

Kind of a meh session, just wasn’t really trying hard enough. Finally psyched myself up and sent this V5-V7 graded boulder I posted before. I’d rate it a V4. No vid of send unfortunately.

Nothing else of note really. Put down a V4+\V5- on the big overhang but failed the 3 boulders I wanted to do.

Leg Day
HBBS up to 6x195
DB RDLs up to 8x65s
Calf raises 4 sets
Cable crunches 4 sets
Seated leg curls 4 sets
Split squats 4 sets

12/15 - 4,154 calories

Pizza, cookies, cake and cocktails. Problem is I really don’t handle foods like this well anymore. I’d be fine eating 5,000+ calories of my go to meals but man did I feel like dog**** today.

12/16 Upper Day

Chins
6xBW
6xBW+18
4xBW+50 - officially stalled, harder than last weeks 4x
9xBW+18
10xBW

Press
6x105
6x95
8x85

Might keep press in the lineup always liked this lift.

Seated cable rows 4 sets
Bench 4 sets
Lat Pulldowns 4 sets
Rear delt cable flys 4 sets

I’ll take it as tired and meh as I felt today. One of the benefits of being closer to hypertrophy training than strength is you can just find ways to get through workouts and not hate yourself too much for being weak as ****.

Oh yea my last 3 weigh-ins:

149.9
150.0
150.0

Achievement unlocked lol! About 9-10lbs up from all time low. Goal is to get to mid/high 150’s by end of February and reassess.

Good job, you weigh more than me now (149.6).

I’ll hand over 2p2’s tinyest bro moniker to you...for now. I’m sure I’ll be back in the low 140’s by summer.

12/16 - 3,181 calories
12/17 - 2,833 calories

Climbing gym 2 hours

Hangboard 6x10sec with 2min rest on 20mm edge

Climbed a bit, didn’t try anything over V3 but mainly went through the motions and didn’t actually get any good technique work done.

I was about to happily correct you that arjun is the tiniest bro but he's been bulking and is heavier than both of us now.

12/18 - 2,939 calories

Leg Day Meh Day

HBBS
8x145
8x165
5x185
—basically pussed out here
2x8x135 paused

Walking lunges 4x24
DB RDLs 4x10x40s
Calf raises 4 sets
Cable crunch 4 sets
Leg press up to 8x270

Kai Lightner was at a CRG I go to recently. He’s 6’2 and 150 with a +8 ape index. May we all be that tiny one day

He’s also been leaped by like a dozen climbers in the US and is convinced it’s due to his height being a detriment with how they’re setting comp boulders.

That's pretty sick--the lowest I ever got was 185 at 6'3" and I have an ape index of about +4. I looked emaciated but I guess I had similar lats to now and giant forearms. I know what he means (it came up all the time) but another way of putting it is "Where is my opportunity to skip right over a really hard section while everyone else eats their liver?"

If he starts getting bored with slabs and scrunched positions, maybe he'll climb some 15's outside

Pretty sure I'm aiming for 165 at 6'0.5 but I carry a lot of fat and not a massive amount of LBM in my torso/arms. I was under 160 ages ago and I looked way too skinny, but I think with lots of strength training/climbing and lower body fat than before I could be decently solid at that weight +5 pounds

Been 10+ days I suck at logging especially when nothing interesting is happening.

Final scale weight of 2018 is 150.1, still planning on getting to 155-157 by end of February then determine what to do body comp wise.

Calories
12/19 - 2807
12/20 - 2971
12/21 - 2558
12/22 - 3136
12/23 - 4121
12/24 - 4624
12/25 - 2390
12/26 - 2704
12/27 - 2874
12/28 - 2915
12/29 - 3025
12/30 - 2012

That’s about 3,000/day average and weight is fairly stagnant. Pretty comfortable putting maintenance calories at 2900-3100 during winter where I’m slightly less active.

I’ll make a post about 2019 goals sometime soon.

Might as well post the last workout of 2018.

12/31

Chins
6xBW
6xBW+18
5xBW+50 (+1 rep!)
10xBW+18 (+1 rep!)
10xBW

Press up to 6x105
TBar Rows 3x8x95
Bench up to 8x135
Rear delt flys 4 sets
Lat Pulldowns 3 sets

Feeling light headed today, guessing something to do with lack of calories and sleep yesterday and end of fiscal year stress today.