Link the dynamometer you have? Seems cool want to track my progress that way.

I got the Camry on Amazon. However it blows. The one that is recommended is like $250.

I use it to check for swings, more than as any objective measure of strength.

6/14

Climb 3 hours

Low volume, long breaks.

Worked on a new V2 until I got a tear. Moved on to an old V2 I couldn't send and got some sweet beta from an older climber. The move was 2+ or V3 but it made the route possible for me (versus pulling on the terrible pinch like my friend/coach was). Had a 2nd wind at this point and moved to an old V4 that was about to be reset with a horrifying sloper at the top. I sent it after about an hour. Proud of this one, totally different climb from the compression V5. This route has been at my gym for a long time and was completely inaccessible to me. My phone died but I'll film this one when I repeat

Unfortunately the attempt before I sent the route, I almost made it to the bar and hit my thumb very hard against something. It is a bit jacked up and I'm going to take it to the ortho asap, hopefully this week. After the impact, I squeezed it against another finger tip and it lightly popped, causing a slight pain. It's feeling significantly better a couple hours later, but its still really sore and painful to use with much force.

Sadly this means pullups, climbing are going to take at least a one week break. DB Bench, maybe I can do my session next Monday but probably not.

This was 11 days since a max effort climb. I have no problem going easy for as long as a month while I focus on PT and injuries heal.

6/13 Pull-ups NG 2x3 1x5

6/15

BW: 179

Starting with a strength coach. Thumb may set that back.

The coach works for the physical therapist I've been seeing since my car accident in 2012. The idea is the equivalent of an advanced physical therapy run, where we identify deficiencies and strengthen weak points. I'll be building on the PT exercises I've been doing over the years and introducing some new ones.

The goal is injury prevention and weak point addressing. I want to figure out if its possible to barbell bench without impingement. I want to figure out how to row without hurting my shoulder, if I can do a face pull or get working overhead at all, and more importantly what exercises I should be doing at this point for my neck and shoulders/upper back. Strengthening the shoulders and improving their stability is a primary goal. Taking the final step with my neck from 90% to 95-100% would be fantastic. I've been waiting for that to happen for a long time now

This will be a 6-8 week run, after which I will consider extending the coaching and focusing on my intermediate to advanced strength goals

Here are some of the movements I've found useful the last few years:

Plank
Side Plank
Rows from pushup plank
Pushup plank
Pushups
Cable Row
Low rope row
Neck retractions
Overhead arm raises (front and back)
bench arm raises (side, front, V, bent arm, rear delt)
reverse lunge (progress to weighted)
adductor rocks (progress to steps)
one leg RDL
glute bridges
marching glute bridges
wrist curls
reverse wrist curls

This is everything I can remember accounting for treating my hurt wrist (armbar), and my lower back and neck/upper back/shoulders/core from the car accident, all of which were initially compromised

Progressing on these and working with the TRX and perhaps some other options should make a big difference for my climbing, core lifts and gymnastics, and general health

Sucks I can't bench this week! Kind of ruins my programming. I feel like I'm just starting to get really strong from the volume and recent push for higher intensity. The past month progressed me from 80x5-6 to 90x2. I made big improvements in form and significantly improved my work capacity. 90 3x2 or 95x2 seems easily doable if I can complete the last 2 1/2 weeks of this program. Then the following month, 100

6/15

NG pullups thumbless 2x5
Finger pullups 1x5

CoC Trainer (100lb) 5x7
left hand only

Reps on the CoC now mean continuous now. I was resetting between reps up until a couple weeks ago. Going to start hitting some volume on the .5 and improving work capacity

6/16

Walk 3 Miles

Right shoulder has been strangely sore since my climb, but in completely different places than following benching. It seems that my right medial deltoid took a beating climbing, while the left feels totally fine. Front deltoid on right is also sore and has been since benching.

Saw Ortho. Got an Xray to be safe. Diagnosis is a contusion/bruised thumb. Thumb swelled badly yesterday and is significantly improved today. Pain is minimal. I am however wearing a thing on my wrist while the swelling goes down. Mobility is fine but its painful to touch the thumb to the pinky

I can still do pullups on my fingers with zero pain. Not quite full depth yet, but lat feels 95% now and is a 0/10 in pain. I can still plank and dead hang from my fingers. I can also CoC on my left hand and start pulling ahead of the right (which is fundamentally limited by a small fully torn ligament). So I can continue getting stronger, and my bench muscles and fingers can get some much needed rest while the thumb heals. I can also make huge progress on diet while my training load is low.

6/17

NG Pullups (Thumbless) 2x3 2x5 3x7
BW: 182

Thumb is rapidly healing. Took off the wrap. Should be doing PT next week, plus more pullups, climbing and hanging by the weekend and benching by the week after

May have to just bench once a week for a few weeks while working with the PT. Definitely lots of climbing

Pullups felt good. Pulled lat seems to be mostly behind me

6/18

Rest

BW: 179

Looked at an old log and had a sad realization that I would have to hit 165-167 to reach my bodyfat goals rather than 170. Upper waist is already 30" and I was way too skinny when I hit 160/5-6% in 2014.

From a climbing perspective being able to get lighter is a good thing. In terms of my goals including aesthetic concerns, I don't want to weigh under 170 and if necessary will introduce a higher volume of deadlifts, rows, pullups hypertrophy work etc to address this concern

Or maybe I'll get under 170 and be so happy with my climbing that I'll keep doing what I'm doing and be happy about it regardless of weight

6/19

CoC 100 2x5
120 4x3
100 1x10

Left hand only

6/18

Finger Pull-ups 2x5 3x7 4x5


Sets of 5 are too easy. Maybe 2x4 2x6 for warmups now

Thumb feels like it will need at least a week to be 100%. Healing well. Fun to actually be able to get some volume at CoC and pullups. The way CoC effects my forearms is so weird. Pretty sure I can only go hard 1-2x/month and the rest is just volume. Missing ring/bar work and climbing right now

6/21

Chins NG Thumbless 3x4
CoC 100 2x3 3x5 120 2x3 140 9x1 120 2x3 100x17

Rep 5 at 140 was easier than Rep 4. The initial trainer closes were a little hard for only 3 reps, but then I had 17! Reps left at the end. Apparently one needs a massive warmup on these, way more thorough than I imagined. This is probably an error in my training that's existed for years

Cut the chins short when I found my lats were still tight at the bottom. I did a 20 second lockoff at 90 degrees a couple days ago and realized after it caused some tightness under my arms. Will give it another 2-3 days and get in a small pullup pyramid


6/20 rest

What would you suggest I purchase CoC wise? A trainer plus like the 120lber?

I have a gripper that only goes up to 40kg right now. I agree warming up is key on them. I'm not even that strong on it right now. Can probably hit 10 reps or so which is 88lbs.

Yeah, that would work. If I could go back to when I started this log last December or so, I would start with the 80-90 pound gripper as a warmup for the trainer. Sounds like you have that covered.

When I initially used these grippers years ago and worked up to the #2, they were more of a strength tester than builder. To actually make significant gains with them requires volume.

I'd be wary of the possible lack of transfer to rock climbing, or other things. I originally thought these would be good for arm wrestling until I learned that the GOAT arm wrestler couldn't even close the #3, yet was crushing people who could.

The fatigue is pretty bad as well. With a squeezing max around 155, I can only hit the #1 (140) for 2 rep sets, or the 1.5 (170) for partial closes, for 2-3 sessions of low reps a month (while doing other things on the side). Any time I max out while climbing or pulling on the side, my crushing grip drops out for a whole week.

I think training the highest intensity grippers or partial closes should be treated like a near max bench press or similar lift and scheduled out over several weeks to manage fatigue and accumulate volume without burning out

6/24 Walk 3 miles

6/23

CoC

L 100 2x5 2x7 120 2x3 2x5 140 1x2 120x8 100 2x20

R 100 2x5 2x7 120 2x3 2x5 140 1x2 170 1x1 (no close) 120 2x8 140 2x14

Finger Pull-ups MG 1x3 2x5 2x8
One arm lockoff (opposite hand on bicep): 12 seconds R, 4 seconds L (slipped)
Dead hang crimp @3x1 second
Dead hang thumbless 40 seconds

BW: 186 (dressed, shoes)

Can barely dead hang from a sloppery crimp (on my door)

For CoC, R had a little more in it then the left, probably due to only training the left for a couple weeks now, but then tanked on the endurance sets at the end

Pullups caused some tightness in my lat. The start of the first rep on my first and last sets caused 1/10 pain. I had some elbow shakiness around 90 degrees. A lockoff in the same position definitely tightens up my right lats. I guess I still need to stretch out and heal the tendon before I do any high intensity pullup sets, or one arm/lockoff work.

We'll see what the coach thinks next week when I re-start strength training/PT. Ideally I will be able to start doing deep lockoffs on the rings

Thumb doing fine, looks to need another week. Seeing Ortho Tuesday

Whole week is going to consist of diet, walking, CoC 2x, Dead hangs 2x, PT session Monday and later in week

6/22 rest

I'm going to be in Boston in early August, 2p2 climbing meet up?

Yeah, count me in. Send me a PM when you're in town. Will you be close to Rock Spot South Boston by chance?

6/29

PT

Pt consisted of reverses lunges w weight, parallel goblet squats, one arm cable rows, two arm cable rows, palloff press, one arm ? Row (like a side pull to straight arm), planks for volume, lots of mobility and some reaching and activation work, single leg work, med ball work, overhead work without weight. Almost everything supersetted

BW: 178

Pull-ups MG thumbless 3,10,12
Hanging V sit 20 seconds
Front lever attempt (partial) 2x3-4 seconds
Hanging L sit 10 seconds
Advanced V sit 2 seconds

Some tightness and no pain. Some elbow shakiness in pull-ups

I'm much closer to a one arm pull-up than I am a front lever. The one arm seems totally doable even at this weight. I'll get my rows stronger and lats stronger, I'll work my lockoffs from the top and the eccentric, I'll practice the movement, I'll get the one arm. The lever however seems... insane.

Will get in 1-2 OT sessions for thumb next week to finish healing

Break from climbing may have been just what I needed

6/28

CoC 100 2x10 120 2x3 3x5 140 2x2 170 1x1 (no close) 140 2x2,3 120 2x10 100 1x25

Next CoC session will be volume at 120. I'm thinking a pyramid up to 3x8 or so. May not transfer to anything but my god grippers are fun.

6/27

Walk 2 miles

6/26

CoC 100 1x3 2x5 2x7 120 2x2 5x3 100x20

Earlier 100 2x3 2x5 2x7 120 1x2

6/25 rest

Hips have been pretty sore since my PT session. Reverse lunge, goblet squats, one leg work got me. I never do this kind of leg work weighted, let alone for 3x10, and it showed. Lat is doing well and apparently took the pullups NP. Was instructed to avoid the gymnastics and hanging during PT/OT.

Was also also told I could consider implementing a low volume of running to assist weight loss and general fitness gains. Running form/activation appears good

May transition the walking into some hiking when the Fall semester starts up

Found a cool new exercise for max effort single leg work:

http://www.alkavadlo.com/body-weight...-shrimp-squat/

7/1 rest

6/30 rest

7/5 CoC warmup, 120 3x5 2x7
walk 2 miles
7/4 rest
7/3 CoC 100 7,10 120 2x3 3x5
walk 2 miles
7/2 rest

BW: 181

Bad week. Was generally lazy and didn't do well on my diet. Had probably 8-10 glasses of wine throughout the week as well as Rib roast for the 4th, and a mini carb refeed over the last couple days

Got in two light CoC sessions and that's it. Grip has tanked for a week+ following the pyramid I did on 6/28, and the two light sessions I did didn't help. Probably going to need another 4-7 days before I can close the #1 again. No more 1x25 stuff on the trainer. Weird how this stuff seems to work on 10-14 day cycles

Thumb still isn't better but I haven't re-strained it recently. Hand Dr is July 18. May need OT. Itching to climb or bench next week. Tried to see how a barbell felt in my hands and it wasn't great. Climbing seems like it may happen before benching

PT and pullups tonight, falling into once a week

7/7

Squeezed high on my dyno and went for the gripper workout. 9 days since last closing the #1

CoC 100 2x5 120 3x3 1x5 140 (No. 1) 1x3 170 2x1 no close 140 2x3 1x4 1x5 PR (no close R hand on 4-5 rep sets)

Fatigued the right with a one handed close on the 1x4 set and couldn't lock out. I*should* be able to close the 1.5 if I can 1x5 on the No.1 but the force production isn't there. I think I'm looking at another 3 weeks or so. Closing the #2 would get me back to where I was at in like 2009 (at this one thing)

Thumb is improving a lot and I could probably climb on it now, if I went slow and didn't strain it on any nasty pinches. Will probably be responsible and wait till Ortho. Holding off on pullups another week per PT's request. Rows are fine for now

7/6

PT. Same as before, with some metabolic work: sled push, rope drumming, band pushups

7/9

NG Pullup 4,6,10,15
@8.5
Wider OH grip: 10
@9

BW: 183 (dressed)

7/8 rest

7/10

DB Bench 50x10 60x8 70x3
Walk 2 miles

This hurt my thumb a little but didn't restrain. Having some trouble making depth. Shoulder feels fine an hour later.

Will hold off another week and reevaluate

Not exactly a 21 set pyramid to 90x2, but it's a start. Once I can do these again, it would be nice to get back to the 80's and 90's within a few weeks. I think I'll start with some higher rep work and then make the transition back to pyramiding/low reps

You did 15 chins at 183? Jesus I'm behind.

See that @8.5? That means I'm good for 18 next week

My progress at chins makes little sense. I've been injured for a couple of months and before that was smashing volume plus climbing. I've only gotten in a few sessions the past month period. Guess I was doing too much

Here is my bizarre pullup progress:

7/9

NG Pullup 4,6,10,15
@8.5
Wider OH grip: 10
@9

BW: 183 (dressed)

6/29

Pull-ups Medium-Wide Grip thumbless 3,10,12

BW: 179

6/23

Thumbless Pull-ups Medium-Wide Grip 3,5,8,8

BW: 186 (dressed)

6/21

Chins NG Thumbless 3x4

6/18

Thumbless Medium Grip Pull-ups 2x5 3x7 4x5

6/17

NG Pullups (Thumbless) 2x3 2x5 3x7
BW: 182

6/15

Thumbless NG Pullups 2x5
Thumbless Medium Grip Pullups 1x5

6/13 Pull-ups NG 3,3,5

6/8

Rings:

Pull-ups NG 5,8,5 lockoff (20 sec) at top

1 set lockoff, 5 reps arm to side shift, eccentric to one arm 90 degree lockoff
1 set partial front lever to L sit
1 set dead hang (60 seconds)

6/4

Pull-ups (medium grip) 2x5

one arm pull-up (hand on bicep) 2x2 right 1x1 left

5/26

Partial Pulllup 1x3 1x7

5/9


Pull-ups (medium-wide grip) 1x2 1x3 1x5
One arm pull-up (left hand on bicep) 3x1 right
Pull-ups (medium-wide grip) 5x5 2x3

5/5

Pull-ups close grip 2x2 1x3 1x5 1x11

Seems that I did a nice peak, starting with lower intensity and more volume, gradually increasing intensity while utilizing a few variations, all while working through the lat pull. It appears to have actually worked.

Alternative theory.. could it be, the Mythical Captain of Crush-Pullup Strength Transfer???

I never believed it was real

Theres a woman I know, a 45 year old 5'4 woman, who wears almost exclusively sweatshorts and T's/gym outfits, who is ****ing huge. You see this woman, and you go, god ****ing damn dude. I assumed at first glance she was fat, but I stood face to face with her today, and she's no fatter than me. She's basically Mark Hunt if he cut 40 pounds, crossed with Superman. Literally bulging from her gym clothes with gratuitous chest and hips and core and thighs that can only be described as literally ******ed. I don't know if her biceps are 19 or 20" or 21" or what, I only know that they're bigger than my lifetime goal ever was to be. She also stands and moves like Laura Croft. I'm experiencing some confused feelings right now.

7/12

CoC 100 2x5 120 2x3 3x5 140 10x1

walk 2 miles

7/11

Walk 2 miles