Hahahahha. I sent a soft V3 before this with only 1-2 V3 moves. So I'll have to be content with climbing just TWO grades above my limit
I had been setting up on this problem and making the first move for kicks and then decided to finish the route and it just happened.
I'm not proud of the form exhibited in this video, in which I appear to be moving as slow as I physically can, but **** man. V5!
Not totally sure what happened at the top, I think I was pulling on the sloper and hadn't made it to the bar with my left hand and almost slipped when my feet cut
The tension doesn't look so bad in the video but I was physically shaking for half an hour after this climb
yeah the whole route was static moves and body tension, plus a lot of hard pushing with the right arm while the right shoulder is in a pretty bad position.
Nope, the only footing was that crimp. The volumes are marked with stripes and usually cover 2-3 routes.
Possibly I could have gotten the left leg high on the first crimp while the right leg was still pushing off the starting hold and flew right over
In my experience volumes marked like that are referring to using your hands on them. Most allow feet on all routes. How do you discern the difference at your gym?
Interesting. At Rock Spot, the volume will have stripes for each colored route allowed, and is permitted for both hands and feet (on those routes). The actual holds on the volume are individually marked.
I'm actually not sure what the protocol is for the black route on my left, because several of the holds on the volume are on, but the volume itself isn't, so if you wanted to put a foot on one of the holds on the volume... hmm. Looks like 3 routes are allowed on that particular volume
It's possible I am totally wrong about this and so is my climbing partner. There aren't many volumes at the Dedham location in the range of routes I climb so I don't think it's had much effect on anything regardless. Will have to clarify today
Saw Ortho doctor and she told me I have a cyst or blister in the left pinky from overuse. It's going to go away on its own, or pop painfully, some time in the near future. If not we'll inject it with cortisone
No more DB bench for at least 2 weeks. Climbing is OK if I don't go too hard. Probably easing into DB bench after that and keeping it at 2x/week and not prioritizing
Having some random bouts of pain in my right arm. Feels like the right shoulder is radiating a little.
Right lat is doing pretty well but still a little tight. Should be doing pullups on it again in 1-2 weeks
Pretty good time for me to start leaning down to 170 or so
Pinky is doing well. Will be able to climb on it this weekend no problem.
Gonna add in some wrist curls and reverse wrist curls and maybe some other similar work.
The reason is explained by the following: when I saw the ortho, a 40 something year old 120 something pound Korean woman named Jinsil, one of the tests she did on my left hand involved meeting her in an arm wrestling position and resisting. She proceeded to bend my wrist backwards and smile at me.
I'd like to say that I didn't expect to have to try and didn't really use my upper back or bicep at all, and that I was really tired from climbing 3/4 days, and these things are true, but don't change the fact that my wrist was not strong enough to stop that small woman from bending it backwards that day.
To her further credit, I easily beat my very strong but 160lb friend after a climbing session recently. So yeah, IDK. Do your wrist curls I guess.
a couple V1 and fell on two new V2 several times. Beta was bad.
Worked a new V4 with some pretty bad slopers
I think I can clean out the rest of the V2 in my gym these next couple weeks, if not tomorrow. There's a new all campus V3 that's pretty intriguing as well.
double pinch iron cross 15-20 seconds, from the cross: leg raises to side 1x3/side, wide grip pullups 2x3
Side planks, PT work recently. Side plank has gotten very easy, though my right side/lower back is still a bit tight. Pushups hurt my wrist but are fine on the mat at the climbing gym.
Hands were a little tired so I didn't try the new V2 on my hit list
No pain at all from the shoulders or upper back or pinky while climbing or the next day.
Turns out the new campus V3 is actually feet on any holds. Significantly less challenging, but still pretty slopery
In retrospect re: the DB bench program, 3 times a week is a lot of strain on the stabilizers, and a lot of work for my hands considering climbing 2-3x as well (and soon Deadlifting). It seems barbell bench is off the table though.
It's been 7 days since my last DB bench session. My pinky is a 1-2/10 in soreness when pressured. Doctor ordered another 9 days before I work with dumbbells again. Considering how well my pinky is doing and the fact that it's been a week since I db benched I REALLY want to bench today. Not sure if I'll go against the doctors advice or not. If I finish the program, definitely just going to follow the A and C day (pyramid and mod intensity 6x3) and go for the 90'sx2 by the end
I modified a Sheiko program with less volume and the option to increase intensity of the main work sets depending on the day. The plan is relatively short rest even between the main work sets. If I really need 3-5 minutes I'll take it for the heaviest sets, but I don't think that will be necessary until the end of the program.
Ideally I could do 3x2 with 90 at the end of the program
Realistically I'm looking to lose another 10 pounds about 1-1.5 lb/week at a time, and will be lucky to go from 2x1 with 85 to 3x2. The goal of this program isn't forcing out a little strength gain, but practicing as much volume as I can get away with at 70-85% and really perfecting my form before I start going after the 90's and 100's
DB flies ouch 20x7 5x10
Arnold Press 5 3x10
Face pull 5x10 10 20 30 40 50
Pinky seemed to have no problem with the db bench. Tape helped. Weights felt pretty heavy warming up and by 80 my right shoulder hurt a little (2/10) at the bottom of the rep. The pain went away after my final set at 75. I was supposed to do 75 2x2 and 60 2x3 but I felt pretty strong once I got past the 80's so I just took out all the reps in one set and pyramided down with no issues. Guess I had more in me with 80 after all
I'm optimistic that my shoulder will feel better for a pain free workout in another week. DB bench for 6x3 with 70 later this week will be a good indicator. Program calls for 85 2x2 next week, which seems like a given as long as my shoulder is good.
The pyramid up is a pretty basic warmup and after the set at 90 the workout is easy.
The flies felt like they were stretching my shoulders in a bad way. Alternatively perhaps my chest and biceps are just tight. I'm going to try these again without any weight and then with 5lb and see if this exercise is of any therapeutic benefit
Arnold press was partial ROM. Shoulders had no problem. Gonna keep this for physical therapy purposes
Face pull's are back to my original technique and felt very good with no impingement
Checked out CRG in Watertown. Bouldering was more limited than I hoped. Happy with the V3, wasn't too hard nor were most of the routes I tried. Rock spot grades a little harder.
Didn't log a CoC session last week. 1x3 .5 3x1 No. 1 (both hands)
Also, DB bench last session was 45-60 seconds between sets
I didn't lost weight the past week but do feel I gained some strength and generally ate quite healthy. Db Bench Monday and climbing today should both be strong efforts. Happy to be doing pullups again.
Sorry for the bad video. The start is a pretty basic low start to the right pinch. I fell on this route for half an hour before I realized I could match on the first crimp. The large undercling is basically a jug and pretty nice to grip. The move from the undercling crimp to the top was pretty hard, but the adjustment putting my thumb over the triangle made a big difference. I apparently was supposed to make that move at an angle, which is why I almost fell. This one was getting graded V4, possibly by people much shorter than me.
CoC hurt my right wrist a little yesterday as it often has, and it was acting up climbing today. This is the wrist that is missing a ligament from an armbar. May have to quit CoC on my right.
I think I need a run of physical therapy/strength training for both wrists and my shoulders.
Couldn't lift tomorrow so I pushed up the program a day. No 85's available. Was considering just doing 6-7x2 with 80 but after 3x2 I felt I had 90 in me and got a nice max effort double.
Taking a 7-10 day break from bench and repping push-ups and shoulder PT, then starting my modified Sheiko #37. The peak of that program will be 90 3x2 or perhaps 95. The following program #30 is higher intensity and will have me working with some singles and ultimately touching the 100's.
I think at my very strongest I lifted the 90's for 6-8 reps at 190-200. If I can get to the 100'sx2 at 170-175 I'll be happy with where I'm at.
Was psyched the one arm work felt good. Saw Osteopath doctor after this workout and he confirmed that my injury was a pulled lat and suggested I stay off the pullups a while longer and try not to stretch it out too much. Feels totally fine right now. Will see how my climb goes later
Pretty close to being able to hold myself on a one arm 90 degree lockoff for a relevant amount of time, but not quite there
My right shoulder started clicking after 2x3 75. No real pain. Had to quit 50x10 early. I think this could be related to my right lat and/or the failed barbell benching a few weeks ago. My eccentrics got pretty sloppy at this point as well. Form on higher weight was good.
Next pyramid I will go to the Uni gym and hit 2x3 80 2x2 85. Week 3 will be 90 and week 4 will be 90 3x2. I want 95x2 this month. Ultimately my form is improving and I'm seeing noticeable physical results from the past few months of my training. Losing the next 6 pounds will make a big difference in my climbing and hanging work as well as aesthetically. If I can keep doing these 1 month programs and progressing a few percent at a time I'll be very strong and meet all my goals by the end of the year. My modest idea of very strong would be db benching the 120's for 2+ reps at 170-180 bodyweight. What's probably going to happen is I'll progress to the 100's and start trying to add reps there until I can hit 5-8 reps.
6/10
Rest
6/9
Rest
No more pull-ups or hanging for a while. The rings workout got me. Osteopath doctor told me to give the pulled lat at least two more weeks without pullups, levers, hanging work. He also suggested I stop climbing in this time frame. I think I'm just going to be very selective about my climbs and only climb once or twice a week the rest of the month and see if my lat heals. Really focusing on physical therapy. I can get through these injuries and come out much stronger. Shoulder strength has become a major priority
The 170 is the No. 1.5 and this was my first workout with it. I am close but can't close it.
My dynometer read 10% high today, leading to this gripper session. I did 5 days in a row starting a week and a half ago including 3 climbs and my grip tanked for 7-8 days. I was reading 10-15% lower than now for all of last week
Like a miracle my lat feels mostly better today. I'll save it for a climb on Weds and give it another 1-2 weeks for pullups and deadlifts
