3/13

rest

3/14

Pullups (overhand, medium grip) 3,4,3,3,8,6,5

bw:193

Pulling fatigued. Forcing out 3x/week. Tu Th Sun

carb loaded last night on sushis. Weighing in 5+lb heavy. Imagine I'll get an extra rep or two on pullups when my weight drops down later this week

Put off Gym PT due to a snowstorm

3/16


Pull-ups 3,5,3,3,10

Squat 40x6 50x3 55x3 60x3 70x2 75x2
85x3
90x3
95x2

80x5,3 70x5
60 5+5,5+5,5

Unhappy with my squat. Reached my strength goal for the past month and it’s meaningless. Form is inconsistent with major asymmetries likely stemming from my car accident. Will work with lighter weight on descending and reversing very slowly to maintain symmetry.

3/15 rest

A few one arm hangs

3/16 PM

Deadlift 60x8 80x3 95x2 110x2

130x3
120 5x1

DB bench 35x10 45x5 55x5
70x6, 65x8

Face pull 10x20 25x20 40x20

Cable row 120x12 150x6

Cable americana 5,10,15x10



-Had another DL day in me. Next one will be 1x2-3 at 140 in one week. Skipped the DB raises due to shoulder fatigue.

-Getting weirdly addicted to these DB press sessions. Wouldn't mind working back up to the 90's+ again here

3/19 AM

Pulllup 3,3 quit

Squat 40x8 50x5 60x3
70x2x3 75x2x3

PM

DB bench 35x12 45x5 55x2
65x10 75x3
Face Pull 20x25

3/18

Max Climb

Sent one V2 and then went easier projecting another route

3/17

rest

Any more opinions on pullup programming?

I am still progressing in AMRAP sessions. Generally I do a small volume followed by a max rep set. The logic being that my volume will be **** after I max out, so I might as well get it in first. This is in line with the "50 pullups" program

I am however reaching the point where the volume I perform before the Max set could interfere with achieving max reps. I'm also trying to fit in weighted pulls and climbing.

Some ideas

(1) keep volume moderate to low before the max rep set. Build up volume in the future. Focus on intensity.
(2) maintain at least two max rep sets per week of BW, and one weighted
(3) work weighted pulls and one max rep set the same day
(4) reduce AMRAP sets per week to spare the CNS, and have one volume day. This might go, (a) weighted day + non-failure volume (b) volume day ( maybe with one AMRAP set at the end) and (c) AMRAP day with low to moderate volume

etc

I can definitely get in two AMRAP set per week plus 2-3 sets of max weighted pulls and *some* volume at bw.

Part of the uncertainty lies in not knowing how critical the additional volume of BW pulls is in driving up my AMRAP sets. It's unquestionably relevant to my climbing endurance. I can't just focus on intensity and expect to build the endurance I'll need to hit 30+ pulls and maintain long climbs... hmm, or can I?

3/20

Pullups NG 3,3
BW+55x3
BWx12

Lockoffs BW+55 13 sec

Dead Hang One Handed: Left 10 sec
Right 17 sec

Pullups (overhand) BWx9 (stopped before failure)

BW:190

Expecting 11-12 reps overhand in 2-3 days

3/23 AM

SLDL 60x10 (warmup)

Deadlift
60x5 80x3 100x2x1 110x1
140x3

DL+SLDL
115x6

Pullups

3,3,10

BW+55x2
BWx9

3/22

Pull-ups 3,3 Quit

Put off pullups a day again. I want my 11 reps and need another day's rest.

3/21

Rest

3/23 PM


DB bench 35x8 50x5 65x2
75x5 (6?)
70x8

Cable row 130x12 160x6
Face Pull 25x20 50x20 70x5 55x10
Palloff press 40x10 60x12
Cable Americana 5lbx15 10x10,8 (L,R) 5x10 seconds/arm

-70 was too heavy on face pulls. Wasn't getting a full retraction
-Gotta do my bodyweight arm raises for PT more regularly. Not making enough progress
-Face pulls are definitely helping. Maintaining posture has gotten slightly easier these past couple weeks

3/24

Back Squat
20x12 40x8 50x5 60x5
70 3x5

Front Squat

Worked with a coach on my squat. Some stuff:

-Bounce at the bottom is good and not hurting my form. Descent speed is also fine.
-widening stance. This should help the right knee from shifting (but will initially lower poundage)
-keeping front squats and cutting depth. shoulders won't stop me after all.
-upper back arch and general flexibility are my limiting issues on front squat
-working on rolling and stretching out a knot in my right hip regularly
-adding bulgarian split squats
-keeping the core more compact as a I descend and reverse. I've been pushing out the core and sitting more back instead of straight down. Pushing out the core is apparently not the right cue. This was a notable change in my descent. Could make a critical difference
-My upper body/torso are what need to stay stable to keep the barbell straight. Barbell being slightly crooked is actually not a major issue and will resolve as the lift progresses
-Re: to the last point, right shoulder is still sitting a little high even resting. Keeping up the PT and back work is the way to go here, and will also assist the upper back arch in back squat and front squat

Pullup Progress (10 weeks):

Looks like I've gone from 4-5 reps medium-close overhand grip to 11 reps medium-wide, having slowly increased in reps and volume for a while. Results seem to be peaking. The main thing hampering my progress has been overtraining, which I guess is inevitable with the combo of pushing progress on pullups and climbing.

3/25

Pull-ups 3,5,3,11,8
PM: 6,5

3/23

Pullups 3,3,10
Bw+55x2
Bwx9

3/22

Pull-ups 3,3,3

3/20

Pullups NG 3,3
BW+55x3
BWx12

Pullup BWx9? 10?

3/16

Pull-ups 3,5,3,3,10

3/14

Pullups (overhand, medium grip) 3,4,3,3,8,6,5

3/12 PM

Weighted Pullup NG
bw+33 x4
bw+44 x3
bw+55 x2 lockoff 10 seconds

3/12 AM

NG pullups 3,5,3,3,10

3/9 pullups

3,4,3,3,5

3/7

Pull-ups 3,2,5

3/5 PM

Weighted chin BW+15kg 5,4
NG bw+15 4,4
NG bwx10

3-2

Pull-ups 3,4,3,3 8 later: 7,6,5

2/26

Pullups 3,4,2,2,8,7,6

2/21

Pull-ups 2,3,2,2,2,2,4

note: switched grip from medium-narrow overhand to medium-wide overhand

2/19 AM

Pullups Day 1 2,3,2,2,5

2/18

Pull-ups 2x5

2/13

pullups
2,2
Weighted Pullup
bw+15 3,2+1+1

2/11 AM

Pullups 1,6,6,6,5

2/8 PM

Pullups bwx7

2/4 AM

pullups 4,5,4,4,6

1/30

pullups 3,5,3,3,6,5,3,2

1/25 AM

Pullups day 4: 3,4,3,3,6

1/24 rest

pullups BWx7

1/21

AM

pullup 2,2,3,4,2,5

1/17 pullups cg 2,3,2,2,4

1/15 pullups close grip overhand 4x2

1/14 pullups medium grip overhand 2,2, 1

1/11

Pullups narrow grip 2, 2,
pullups ng 3

I'm cutting out all the volume chins. Thinking just weighted, lockoffs and negatives. Volume doesnt really seem all that necessary for the cost of overtraining and tendonitis.

Yeah. Well I think some volume is necessary. It's just not the main thing being progressed. I'm not going to put in so much volume that I can't keep adding a rep every week or so. Same for weighted pulls and lockoffs: all I can manage is a couple sets a week.

My plan is to keep doing 1-2 extra bw sets after my max effort set. Maybe something like 3x5 on some days. But definitely no more stuff like the 50 pullups program where I do several high rep sets before a max.

If I started doing more endurance climbing or was a more advanced climber I would probably prioritize volume.

3/27

DB bench 40x10 60x3
80x4
70x9.5

Face pull 30x20 40x20

PM:

Pull-ups NG BW(191)+55x4+lockoff
NG BWx12
Pullup 5,5,6

-Next DB bench workout I'll go for max reps with the 75's and then either added reps or a single set with the 80's. After that it's gonna be almost all 80's for a while. My gym has 90's but no 85's.
-Had a lot of pullup sessions 2 days apart recently, and may be overtrained. Got sloppy on my NG BW set and couldn't get rep 13. Will have to see if I can continue to manage 3 sessions every 7-8 days or if I need to further reduce frequency/volume. Perhaps I could reduce from 3 to 2 different pullup workouts. Results on Thursday should say a lot. My last 11 rep set wasn't clean enough. I want to repeat it with ideal form and then get back to adding reps.

3/28

light climb

3/29

squat 40x5 50x5 60x5
75 2x5

front squat 60 3x3

brought stance out same as last session. still tight in the right inner hip area, took an extended warmup to hit depth without too much tightness/pain. Working on it

3/31

DB bench 40x10 60x3
75x2x5

Cable row 140x12 170x5
Face pull standing 30x20 50x20 10x15
Palloff press 60x20/side

3/30

Pull-ups BW 11,7,5,5,5

Climb. All V0. Volume

-Deadlifted the last 3 weeks so this was my week off. next week 150xMax
-Pushed back DB bench a day to work V0. Had to go light. Physiological shocker: adding reps/weight every session for a month results in me needing a light day.
-Face pull form needs study. Didn't feel therapeutic. Might try seated and mixing up the grip

My new weekly breakdown:

-Pullups 2x. dead hang, lockoff 1x
-Squat 2x
-Deadlift, SLDL 1x
-Climb 2x
-Db bench 2x
-Gym PT 1x (cable row, face pull, assistance)

PT and planking at home

Pullups program is 1 weighted day followed by a max clean reps set and some volume in 3-5 sets of 5-6, and one max reps day with a drop set or added reps followed by some volume

4/3

DB bench 40x14 60x5

80x4,4 65x9

4/2 Rest

4/1

Squat 40x? 60x5 70x5 75 2x5

Climb 2 hours, V0 and V1



-Re:Squat, still working on the painful knot in my right hip. Cutting depth a little. Going to take a few weeks to stretch out and heal, and to adjust to the widened stance.

-Took my 4th deadlift session off as always
-Pushing back my Pullups until Thursday, which will be a one week break. I've done 3 climbs the past 8-10 days and 3 pullup sessions, as well as a few weeks in a row adding reps to weighted pullups. A week off seems called for.

4/5

Squat

20x16 40x6 50x7 60x5
70x5 75x5 80x5

Incline Db Bench 35x10 50x5
60 3x5

Bulgarian Split Squat 2x12/leg

Still healing right inner hip. Squatting bodyweight and stretching daily. The widened stance should ultimately help, but it sure is a ***** right now. Maybe I should be treating this like physical therapy and going much lighter. In theory stretching my hip under 175 pounds probably isn't therapeutic. I tend to ignore pain and have made things worse in the past

New DB Bench plan:

Mon

3x5 (variable)(volume)

Weds

3x5 incline (light)

Fri

1xMax reps + added reps and/or a drop set (max effort)

Day A standard is 3x5, but the number of sets vary with the number of reps, weight, and what I have in me for the day. For example, I might hit the 80's for 3x5 next Monday, progress to 3x6-7 or so the next couple weeks, and then go for the 90's for a few heavy doubles the following week (or perhaps the 85's if I go to a real gym)

Pullups plan

Sat- Climb
Tues- 1xmax, 2 volume sets ( 2x8-10)
Thurs- bw+n (max clean reps), 2x9-12

+Misc. light climb during the week, preferably on Tuesday or Thursday after pullups. I can opt to add in 3-5x5-6 pullups on weeks I skip the 2nd climb.

4/6

Deadlift

60x5 80x3 100x1 120x2 150x3

SLDL 120x5

Deadlift 120 2x2 5x1

Pull-ups BW+33 x5
Pull-ups 12,9,7

Lockoff 15,10 sec

4/7

Face pull neutral 10x20 20x20 25x15

DB Bench 40x10 60x3 75x7+2+1

Cable row 150x9 170x5,3

Palloff Press 70x20/side






Might switch up the cable row scheme. Maybe a warmup set and 2x8-12.

Sticking with the 75's next week for db bench to hit 8-10 reps, and then moving to the 80's the following week

Switched face pull technique by changing the angle of my elbows. Definitely feels better.

Getting a nasty pump in my pecs from palloff press, bro

4/10

Db Bench 45x10 65x3 70x7

Had only 10 minutes for a workout today and figured I’d get in one work set rather than skip. 70 felt heavy warming up so I went with it for a light day. I overtrained upper last week and am paying for it. If i had more time I would have forced out the 3x5 with 75.

BW: 188

4/9

light climb (1 hour)

4/8

climb

4/15

Deadlift 70x5 100x2 120x2
130x3
130: 6x1

DL+SLDL 110 1+8

Climb 4 hours: worked V2-3. Climbed my first V3. Great progress

4/14

pull-ups 12,10,10 (close grip)

4/13

Climb volume (20-25 routes, mostly V0 and beginner.) 1.5 hours. Awesome.

DB bench 40x12 55x3 65x3 75 3x5
Face pull 15x20 30x20

CoC about 30x closes past week. Mostly .5 (120lb) and some closes of the #1

4/12 rest

4/11

Pullup BW+33 2x5

Light Climb

-enjoying tons of climbing, making nice progress
-Reset weight on DL due to failure of form the last two weeks. Today's reps were nice. Maybe I'll start putting up videos.
-Unsure if I can sustain pullups 2x/week and climbing so much. I'll drop the pullups to every 5-7 days if I must. There's still no reason I can't make progress and hit my 20 rep goal
-Down from 193 to 188. Goal is 175
-hip is mostly better and I should be able to squat again next week. Maybe I went too wide
-gonna keep the bench at 2x/week because I'm doing so much climbing (and also dieting)
-programming is coming together, as are results. Time to fall into a routine and get really consistent

4/21

Close Grip Pullups 2x10

Deadlift later

4/20

Pull-ups close grip BWx10 (put off rest till tmrw. Was shooting for 12 and felt weak so I stopped)

DB bench 40x12 55x5 65x3
75 3x5

Incline DB bench 60 4x5

4/19 rest

4/18

Climb 3 top rope climbs

4/17

DB bench 40x12 55x3 65x5
80x5 70x9
Cable row 120x10 150 2x10
Face Pull 15x20 35x25
Palloff Press hurt, quit

Climb 3 hours medium effort