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05-05-2008 , 04:39 PM
Years ago, an acquaintance of the family was having a custom car built. He talked to a bunch of ultra high end hotrodders and custom manufacturers but wound up choosing a smaller, less known outfit. He said that the reason he went with them was because they were the only one of the lot that took an active interest in what he wanted, rather than spending all their time telling him what he needed.
That always kinda stuck with me.

Anyway, I'm a pretty avid hobbyist watchmaker, but do have access to some neat CNC machinery and am thinking about doing a small run of custom timepieces to give away to friends. I think EDF is a great place to ask opinions of the general watch-buying public, since it splits the difference between horology geeks like myself who often time waste too much time on irrelevant minutiae and the totally ignorant who wouldn't know what to look for. There's also a far higher percentage of people who appreciate a nice watch here than there would be randomly walking down the street.

So, I'd love to hear your thoughts!

1) Do you prefer "aggressively styled" watches or something more muted?

2) Do you prefer utilitarian materials (stainless, titanium, etc) or precious materials (gold, platinum)?

3) Do you prefer straps (made out of some sort of hide material) or metal bracelets?

4) As far as overall size, do you prefer XL watches (45mm+), large watches (40MM-45MM) or midsize watches? (35mm-40mm- in the size range of an old US silver dollar)

5) Do you like a watch with 'complications' - ie a chronograph with buttons and subdials, or do you like a simply styled watch?

6) Do you like your dials (the colors, the finish, the numerals, etc) to be clean and classic or aggressive and noticeable?

6) ... and this one is a biggie. While watch nerds like myself always focus on the movement, it's entirely understandable that a large number of the watch buying public just doesn't care about that stuff. With that said (and answer this one honestly) how much do you really care about the movement that powers the watch? Are you the sort of person who enjoys knowing that it is highly refined, tuned and worked over by a craftsman, or is "good enough" good enough and as long as it keeps ticking and keeps accurate time, who cares if the innards are polished?

Just looking for general EDF opinions; anyone from the guy who owns 10 different 5 figure timepieces, to the guy who wears a $79 Seiko. These opinions *will* result in an actual watch being hand-built, so serious suggestions, please.

Thanks
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05-05-2008 , 04:52 PM
I like simple, solid 44mm dive watches.

1) muted
2) utilitarian
3) nylon zulu straps
4) 44mm
5) date only
6) clean
7) don't care about quartz vs auto
8) tritium with screw down crown at 4 o'clock ftw
05-05-2008 , 05:15 PM
One of my favourite watches ever is the Rolex Submariner (only every owned fakes though )

1) Do you prefer "aggressively styled" watches or something more muted?
Not quite sure what you mean. Probably muted. I like watches that are like anti-bling.

2) Do you prefer utilitarian materials (stainless, titanium, etc) or precious materials (gold, platinum)?

Definitely utilitarian. Especially stainless, titanium for 99% of people isn't necessary and is just there because it's expensive.

3) Do you prefer straps (made out of some sort of hide material) or metal bracelets?

Metal bracelet.

4) As far as overall size, do you prefer XL watches (45mm+), large watches (40MM-45MM) or midsize watches? (35mm-40mm- in the size range of an old US silver dollar)

Midsize to small - it's supposed to tell the time and maybe the date that's it. Plus I have girly wrists.

5) Do you like a watch with 'complications' - ie a chronograph with buttons and subdials, or do you like a simply styled watch?

Simple. Time, maybe date, that's about it. Maybe an alarm and a bottom time (for want of a better word) dial round the outside.

6) Do you like your dials (the colors, the finish, the numerals, etc) to be clean and classic or aggressive and noticeable?

Clean.

6) ... and this one is a biggie. While watch nerds like myself always focus on the movement, it's entirely understandable that a large number of the watch buying public just doesn't care about that stuff. With that said (and answer this one honestly) how much do you really care about the movement that powers the watch? Are you the sort of person who enjoys knowing that it is highly refined, tuned and worked over by a craftsman, or is "good enough" good enough and as long as it keeps ticking and keeps accurate time, who cares if the innards are polished?

Good enough is good enough as long as it's robust.
05-05-2008 , 08:56 PM
I like simple, classic styled watches, metal bracelet > hide, and if you can throw in some gold or platinum that's prob a plus. This design is a good example of the style I like:

http://www.amazon.com/TAG-Heuer-Carr...34862&sr=1-235
05-05-2008 , 09:03 PM
Great thread idea.

Are you aiming for a dress watch or a more casual/sporty watch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Watchmaker
1) Do you prefer "aggressively styled" watches or something more muted?
Muted. I like watch cases both with subtle curves and cases with straight lines.





In a sporty watch, I'll tolerate a little bit of edginess, but (e.g.) the Orange Monster is about as brash as I'm personally willing to go, especially if the aggressive features are purely cosmetic (i.e. I'm willing to accept something like the largish compass crown on the Seiko Atlas).

Quote:
2) Do you prefer utilitarian materials (stainless, titanium, etc) or precious materials (gold, platinum)?
Utilitarian. This isn't a strong preference for me, though, if we're ignoring cost considerations. I have acquired quite a fondness for titanium in my high-end homebrew flashlight hobby (it's much more durable than the traditional flashlight material, aluminum, though it isn't as good as a heatsink, which is a bit of a problem with the high-output lights). Titanium's scratchability doesn't really bother me too much, since I *like* seeing the signs of wear.

Quote:
3) Do you prefer straps (made out of some sort of hide material) or metal bracelets?
I'm not a big fan of leather and prefer a good bracelet. I really like the nato-type nylon straps for the right type of watch. But again, this isn't a very strong preference for me.

Quote:
4) As far as overall size, do you prefer XL watches (45mm+), large watches (40MM-45MM) or midsize watches? (35mm-40mm- in the size range of an old US silver dollar)
Large. This is mostly a function of my wrist size, though. I have a pretty small wrist (7.5") for a guy my size (6'5"). I'll wear an XL, but it's not something I specifically look for.

Quote:
5) Do you like a watch with 'complications' - ie a chronograph with buttons and subdials, or do you like a simply styled watch?
Just the time for me. If it's up to me, I'd ditch the date and day dials, but most of the watches I end up with have both.

Quote:
6) Do you like your dials (the colors, the finish, the numerals, etc) to be clean and classic or aggressive and noticeable?
Less is more, especially in a dress watch. Some things I do like in a sporty/tool watch, though, are arabic numbers, lume, and fat hands.

Quote:
6) ... and this one is a biggie. While watch nerds like myself always focus on the movement, it's entirely understandable that a large number of the watch buying public just doesn't care about that stuff. With that said (and answer this one honestly) how much do you really care about the movement that powers the watch? Are you the sort of person who enjoys knowing that it is highly refined, tuned and worked over by a craftsman, or is "good enough" good enough and as long as it keeps ticking and keeps accurate time, who cares if the innards are polished?
Are you doing a display back? Good enough is good enough for me. I do like to have one good display back piece just to show the kids but other than that I don't really care about the cosmetics of the movement. Now, I *do* appreciate the technical engineering aspects, especially when that translates into increased accuracy. Now, that said, obviously I don't place the ultimate importance on accuracy or I'd be going for something quartz.

Can't wait to see some designs.
05-05-2008 , 09:29 PM
1) Definitely muted styling
2) Utilitarian. Actually, anything silver colored. I'm not a gold fan.
3) I used to think metal bracelets, but I would definitely rather have a strap on a nice watch.
4) The lower size of large.
5) I like a very simple watch.
6) Definitely clean. l don't want a watch with no markings, but as little as possible.

Here's an example of a watch that I love:


6) I really just want a watch to work. I don't think I would appreciate the difference in a truly well built watch enough to justify the cost difference.
05-05-2008 , 09:42 PM
PVN- No display back.

What do you all think about rectangular watches?

The only thing I am dead-set on is that if it's going to have a center second hand, it's going to be oversized and red. Even in a dress watch, I really like the "1960's Wall Clock at NASA" aesthetic that a big, red second hand gives off.

Everything else is up in the air.
05-05-2008 , 09:48 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watchmaker

So, I'd love to hear your thoughts!

1) Do you prefer "aggressively styled" watches or something more muted?

2) Do you prefer utilitarian materials (stainless, titanium, etc) or precious materials (gold, platinum)?

3) Do you prefer straps (made out of some sort of hide material) or metal bracelets?

4) As far as overall size, do you prefer XL watches (45mm+), large watches (40MM-45MM) or midsize watches? (35mm-40mm- in the size range of an old US silver dollar)

5) Do you like a watch with 'complications' - ie a chronograph with buttons and subdials, or do you like a simply styled watch?

6) Do you like your dials (the colors, the finish, the numerals, etc) to be clean and classic or aggressive and noticeable?

6) ... and this one is a biggie. While watch nerds like myself always focus on the movement, it's entirely understandable that a large number of the watch buying public just doesn't care about that stuff. With that said (and answer this one honestly) how much do you really care about the movement that powers the watch? Are you the sort of person who enjoys knowing that it is highly refined, tuned and worked over by a craftsman, or is "good enough" good enough and as long as it keeps ticking and keeps accurate time, who cares if the innards are polished?

Just looking for general EDF opinions; anyone from the guy who owns 10 different 5 figure timepieces, to the guy who wears a $79 Seiko. These opinions *will* result in an actual watch being hand-built, so serious suggestions, please.

Thanks

1) On aggression--I generally prefer a streamlined, classic dial, but I think this stems from having smallish wrists. Generally the aggressive designs are huge, although some of them are interesting (some, honestly, are too ridiculous for me to ever take seriously).

2) Material- Depends on the function of the watch. Would much rather have a utilitarian style diver watch, but a precious metal dress(ier) watch. I do think the use of diamonds on mens watches is generally tacky and pretentious. If you watch is made of platinum, do you really need more ice?

3) Straps for dress, bracelets for sport. HOWEVER, I like the option of switching between bracelet and strap (especially in the summer, when you can stain your strap pretty easily), so I don't like integrated bracelets. Having to get a custom strap is really annoying...

4) Size- Again, depends on the watch's function. What's the point of having a 36mm chronograph where you can barely read the dials? Similarly, you don't need a 46mm dress watch. I generally look for something in the 38-41mm size, as it can fit under a sleeve, but still has "presence."

5) Complications are nice, but I recently have been attracted to cleanly-dialed watches. A date window is always nice, as is a power reserve or small sub-dial with the second hand (I prefer this to a big, sweeping second hand).

6) Clean and classic, but quality. I think blued hands are often a really nice touch that look nice on both sports or dress.

7) Movement is key in that I care that it a) lasts b) isn't breaking constantly. If you have an exhibition back (always a nice touch), it's always nice to have the components decorated and polished.


Looking forward to seeing the final product.
05-06-2008 , 02:42 AM
1)Styling to me should be simple for watches which aren't treated as jewelry. Functionality is more important to me as a consumer so this leads to answer #2
2)utilitarian
3)I've got a small wrist so no larger then 40mm is what would work without looking obnoxious
4)I got a Swatch watch in college with a rubber band, the material soaks up sweat. What blunder on their part. Recently I've been preferring leather straps to bracelets since the latter resembles jewelery.
5)Either can work, when I was younger I loved chronographs, made me feel like pilot. For watch I'd consider the date should be included.
6)The answer to your last question is contingent upon how much capital I'm outlaying for a product. Maybe I'm dodging your question.

I'd like to have a timeless watch maker introduce interesting straps. There is room for detail and emphasis could be placed on the strap. (This comes from someone who wears red socks with his suits.)
05-06-2008 , 04:28 AM
1) muted but with a subtle hint of aggressiveness

2) stainless steel

3) i've always preferred metal bracelets but recently i've really starting liking the leather straps

4) i like large, but not obscenely so (i currently have a swiss army divemaster500 or whatever which is a pretty big watch)

5) it HAS to have a date, but besides that, whatever. one or two complications is fine, but i don't want it to be busy.

6) probably a mix of the two, but not fully sure what you mean

7) i'd love to say that i care about the movement, and my next watch will be automatic, most likely, but really as long as it's accurate and i don't have to replace the battery that often, it doesn't really matter that much to me
05-07-2008 , 05:38 AM
Subtlety imo – something that’s discreet, traditional even, but oozes quality, mechanical winder / self winder for me.

One distinguishing signature feature / complication to draw attention, something unusual / unique, but not necessarily useful.

Maybe make use of dual polarised glass so that the dial is only visible at exactly the right angle, or you have to turn the top glass to reveal the dial. Something that draws a second glance without screaming ‘I’m a ****ing great Rolex clone look at me’

Lightweight materials – titanium, and thin, thin, thin. Patek type thin, so thin that you wonder how a movement could possibly fit into the case.

Now look what you've done, I've just lost an hour drooling over Patek's / Jaeger's and am in need of executive relief.
05-09-2008 , 01:03 AM
If I could design my own watch it would have the following:

GMT
Automatic
200m depth min.
Uni-Bezel
Polished SS 904L
42mm w/o crown, 24mm between lugs
Screw down crown
AR Sapphire crystal (flat)
Black (glossy) dial w/polished indices and date (small amount of red accents would be nice)
Screw tubes rather than springbars
Gobs and sticky gobs of lume
Does not look like a Sub
Black leather strap (think Ted Su), Also a case hugging rubber strap
My name on it somewhere

PM for where to send k, thx.

Last edited by russellmj; 05-09-2008 at 01:09 AM.
05-09-2008 , 06:13 PM
Im just looking for a watch that can tell me whether its day or night.
05-09-2008 , 11:27 PM
1) Muted
2) Utilitarian (stainless/titanium)
3) I think metal bracelets are more universal: acceptable for business as long as it's not the size of something Flavor Flav would wear around his neck but won't be damaged if you're doing something active/around water.
4) Large, and I'm a big guy with large wrists/hands. I have a 42mm Omega that's the perfect size imo.
5) I like my simple Omega, but my next watch will be an IWC Portugese.
6) Clean, classic, not close.
7) I really like the movement stuff, one of my favorite things about my Omega is the skeleton case. I often take it off and watch the movement.
05-09-2008 , 11:33 PM
Id create it in the shape of a cell phone with the capability to make and recieve calls and take pictures. Also Id put it in my pocket.
05-10-2008 , 05:00 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by demon102
Id create it in the shape of a 5'2" asian girl with the capability to make and recieve calls and take pictures, and pleasure me. Also Id put it in my pocket.
fyp
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