A watch forum I read had a thread about "top ten japanese watches every collector should have." I made a list that was focused primarily on Seikos since that's the bulk of my collection. Instead of listing particular pieces I tried to list ten categories, in which you could find new or vintage pieces.
Obviously some people will go in the opposite direction and build a highly-focused collection of various pieces that are all in a narrow group, but I think this method gives you a good exposure to all the big categories, letting you really figure out where you want to specialize.
I've expanded and refined this list a bit from what I originally wrote.
In no particular order:
1.
A classic diver. You get a lot of leeway here, you can go for the vintage models or something brand new. 6306, 6309, 7002, or SKX007.
SKX007 (new):
6309 (vintage):
Alternatively, the Tuna Can models also qualify in my book as "classic" divers, since they're both uniquely and iconicly Seiko AND have a lot of history in the series. You can similarly find both new and vintage pieces here.
SBBN007 (recently discontinued):
7C46-7008 (vintage):
2.
A non-"classic" diver. Preferably something big and chunky, with a high-visibility dial. Orange monster, SKXA35, SKA367, or even a SNDA15.
SKX781 (Orange Monster):
SNDA15:
If you want to look at vintage pieces, there are a ton of super-interesting Rally Divers out there.
3.
An 8F perpetual calendar quartz. Preferably an 8F56 with GMT. These are rated +/- 20 sec/year. These are marvels of engineering IMO; you get a high-end quartz movement that will endure (these are durable movements that are built with servicability in mind, they're not disposable like most quartz movements) for an incredible price.
SLT077 (discontinued):
SBQJ015 (new):
The SBQJ015 is nicer, but doesn't have the rotating bezel, which is a big functionality plus. To save a little money here, you could go with the (non-GMT) SBQK079 (8F32).
SBQK079 (new):
SBQK081 (new):
There are a few ISO-rated divers with these movements as well.
SBCJ001 (8F56, discontinued):
unknown titanium model:
These movements used to only be found in the mid-high-end (and Japan-only) Brightz sub-line, which is generally pretty expensive because they all have treated, carbon-coated titanium cases.
4.
Mechanical chrono. Most new auto chronos are going to be way outside the beginning collector's budget
SBGC001:
SBDS0011 (Flightmaster):
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...n/SBDS0011.jpg
There are lots of vintage pieces that are easy to find and quite reasonably priced. The 6139 is particularly noteworthy. So much history here. If you're going to get one of these, you should "do it right" and get the famous "Pouge" model.
Other noteworthy 6139 models include the various "Helmet" chronos:
5.
Quartz chrono. I'm really liking the 7T62 movement here all of a sudden, since the second hand on the main dial moves at 5hz.
SNA141:
SNAB17:
SBPP001:
If you want to go all-out here, a 9T82 would be a particularly nice way to top-off your collection. This movement, a hand-assembled kinetic, is incredibly impressive, and the watches that use it are all quite, err, unique.
6.
Military style. The standard here would be the SCFF001 4S15 SUS, but it's very hard to find.
SCFF001 (vintage):
SBPP007:
For the collector on a budget, there are tons of new and vintage automatics under $100 to choose from in this category.
Citizen Promaster NH6050:
7.
Classic Japanese-style dress watch. The standard style here would be dauphine hands, baton markers, simple dial (perhaps with a sunburst, but always in a neutral color). Lots of 6R15 pieces to choose from here.
SARB033:
On a budget, you could go with a quartz piece like a SGF719.
There are also a lot of
really nice vintage Grand/King Seikos in this vein.
King Seiko 4420-9990:
[/img]http://www.csce.uark.edu/~jgauch/photos/watch1/ks_history/4420-9990/026.jpg[/img]
8.
A more stylized dress watch. Something retro, perhaps with a domed crystal, or thin, straight lugs. Again, lots of 6R15 pieces here. All dial and no bezel makes these wear larger than they are.
SARB031:
Lots of weird and quirky vintage possibilities here.
7009-5019:
7006-5019:
9.
Non-diver sport watch. It's going to be hard to beat the BFS ("Big ****ing Seiko") here on a bang-for-the-buck basis.
SNKF11:
SBCS005/SCBS007:
SARB017 (alpinist):
If you want to go vintage here, the Seiko ANA is a surefire winner.
7019-6040:
6117-6410 (GMT, vintage):
In the high-end category, I love the SBGE001:
10.
Ana-digi or LCD. G-shocks, of course, are currently the reigning champs here. You can go really crazy here and get something cutting-edge with all the bells and whistles, solar power, atomic radio-sync, etc. But if you're building an exclusively Seiko collection, this is a good place to go vintage with a Arnie.
H558-5009:
SBPG001 (an old-school LCD with modern features):
Now, the great thing about this list is that you can find reasonably-priced pieces in all of these categories, and in any one of these categories you can "break out" and spend a lot more if you want to get one particularly rare or expensive piece. Also, while you're building a collection, there are plenty of pieces that can fill more than one slot on this list. For example, the SNA141 meets both "military style" and "quartz chrono" categories. The SBCM023 would meet both "perpetual calendar" and "classic diver".