I recently watched a video where a coach (Cory Mikesell) was using monkersolver to demonstrate that different flop bet sizes do not necessarily change EV dramatically in hands where pre flop ranges are relatively wide (for example a SRP, CO vs BTN).

His assertion was basically that the goal of any bet-sizing is to maximize indifference, and that different sizings target different portions of your opponents range.

Mikesell states that if the difference in EV is negligible, he believes the best flop sizing is the one which is simplest to balance, and gives your opponent the most trouble.

Anyway I want to ask the forum: what flop sizing are you guys using? How are you altering your sizing based on texture? What are your thoughts on optimal flop sizing?

i use a sizing based of flop texture

1/2 and 2/3 pot for very dry and dry flops... 3/4 and full pot for wet and very wet flops

I bet 50 to 80% of the pot and it usually depends on how many players saw the flop, how large the remaining stacks are, how well I connected with the flop, how much I've got left, how much I would have left on the turn vs the pot size and a number of other things that I think about in the moment and based on my opponents perceived table images.

If you always bet big on drawy boards, you're going to win more in the pots they miss, and lose more in the pots they hit.

If you always bet smaller on drawy boards, you're going to win less in the pots they miss, and lose less in the pots they hit.

One could argue that it evens out, regardless of what you do.

I like bet sizes that my opponents want to call. I make money when they call. Can't be afraid of an opponent hitting a card and you having to fold your hand.

I make the flop sizing dependent from a ton of factors:

board texture (wetter means bigger)
my range (the heavier the bigger, the lighter the smaller)
villains range (heavier smaller, lighter bigger)
position (ip I tend to bet bigger)
polarity (more polarized means bigger)
opponents tendencies (aim for certain hands to fold or call in villains range)

as a default:

cbet ip hu on very wet flop: 100%
cbet ip hu on wet flop: 80%
cbet ip hu on dry flop: 67%
cbet ip hu on lockdown, paired or mono flop: 50%

cbet oop hu on very wet flop: 75%
cbet oop hu on wet flop: 67%
cbet oop hu on dry flop: 50%
cbet oop hu on lockdown, paired or mono flop: 100% or 50%

float ip mway on wet & very wet flop: 100%
float ip mway on dry flop 75%
float ip mway on lockdown, paired or mono flop: 33% or 67%
float ip hu: same like cbet
probe oop mway on wet % very wet flop: 100% or 67%
probe oop hu on dry flop: 100% or 67%
probe hu on lockdown, paired or mono flop: 100% or 50%
probe oop hu: same like cbet

In General I like bet sizings big enough for my opponent to fold his hand even if I could get value.
IN plo equities run close so calling is often correct and enables villain to realize his equity.
Due to texture shifts on next street villain is often able to bluff lead and you have to fold your hand,
so you prefer folds more often than calls compared to NLHE (PLO Core concept by Tom Chambers, Advanced theory of plo).

Depends on opponents. Stations, recs, and people I have to regularly play against.

I prefer 3/4ths pot on lockdown boards and pot in every other case.

I play passive OOP just because it seems like all of my mistakes are OOP.

I prefer my opponents fold most of the time because in all cases they have some sort of equity and my goal is to deny that realization.

If called, I assess their continuing range and then figure out what I want to do on the turn.

I do 30%, 50%, 70%, and 100%. I do mostly 30% on paired/lstraight/mono boards, but sometimes 50% on the wet ones. I mix between 50 and 100% in spots with huge range disparity (UTG vs BB). I then do 70% in most common spots. (mp/co/btn vs blind).