Is standard to 3bet gii with this type of hand?

Obviously I want to 3bet since hand is v strong but after 4bet from villain (26/25/20) I am not sure that I loove it any more.

Any tips?





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It looks like CO is aggro enough to 4bet KK or other non-AA hands, so it's a (marginal) 3bet/gii. Vs a nit who 4bets AA only, it's a fold - an ace in the hand is evil when facing AA, but remotely connected suited hands without an ace or a pair are priced in to stack off vs AA when it has invested almost all the stack preflop.
Bump!

What are the most common leaks at micro PLO? I'm looking to colour code players based on leaks, while playing plo10/25 zoom

Hey guys!

Can anyone offer advice on how to play small card hands like 2234 or 2345? I think im losing alot of money by playing these hands too often so should I only be playing these in position or on the button? Are these hands complete garbage even in multiway pots?

Thanks

Lol, thx for reminding me, gotto get to it asap.

In multiway pots, ur looking for flopping the nuts or dominating villain's draw. Small cards are terrible for that. You can obv see a flop from the BTN with 7654ss and such, but hard to win at showdown.

Preflop spew, playing big draws passively, overplaying 2pair on wet boards, etc. Most micro players are loose and weak, some more than others.

I've been having trouble combating hyperaggro players and feel like I just get run over a lot. I mostly have trouble in single raised pots OOP when they CB around 80% of flops. I've been messing around with CR bluffing but it seems like the playersi've been playing against, (mainly Euros) almost never fold. I know fighting back on very dry boards is good but what other kinds of flops can we fight back on and follow through on turns and rivers? It really feels like I brick nearly every flop and just have to fold most times. How much more often should I be 3B players that raise nearly every hand? I'm also having trouble just CB flops HU. I feel like the same thing happens and I completely brick every flop that's very draw heavy and I just have to give up nearly every hand. Is this just a run of bad luck or am I not CB and barreling flops and turns enough?

I just have a quick question:

The PLO game I play is 1-2 blinds but with a $5 bring in. Buy in range is 100 Min and 500 Max.

If I have $100, is this considered having 20 Big Blinds or 50 Big Blinds?

Would this be an ideal ShortStaking strategy table? I'm not rolled too deep so I like starting with a shortstack, trying to double/triple up and then play a regular game

It's almost equivalent to having 20 big blinds.

The rule of thumb is to buy enough chips to cover all the fish, or the maximum if there's a fish who has run up a stack bigger than the maximum buy-in.

Don't worry that much about bankroll management: variance is lower in live games than in online games of the same limit due to the possibility of passive nutpeddling, and regs' winrates are way bigger live, so live regs find 10-15 buy-in rolls sufficient.

Those having less than $5000 in savings are better off multitabling with full stacks online than shortstacking live. Even 5% online rake is so huge that only decent rakeback keeps pro shorties alive, and there's no rakeback live, so shorties have no chance for longterm profit because most of the money in PLO comes from taking whole fishes' stacks postflop.

Ok, I'm not a beginner as such and used pay my rent playing hold'em in the good old days 2005-2007. but stopped playing when we started to plan kids.

These days I'm starting to have some free time to play poker and PLO seem fun, so my question is, what is good plo material that is not aimed at beginners? (Be it vids or books?)

you can watch ashley lapiz ipokervip vids on youtube for a start or get slowhabits book 'transitioning from nlhe to plo'. training sites got a lot of content for plo and some of them have a free trial with plo beginner vids. gl for your plo grind!

Think this is fine. The 3bet is very good/standard with such a strong hand both HU and multiway and once the action is back to you there is too much money out there and your hand is too strong to find a fold. It's one of those spots where it's potentially a small mistake to call vs potentially a huge mistake to fold. And I don't think it's a small mistake often enough to not be compensated by the times it's a big mistake and you fold.

In terms of bb/100 in plo rake, what is the minimum amount that is considered acceptable?
Just noticed I am paying 16bb/100 in rake (6.5bb/100 after rakeback)

Thanks!

what stakes are and site are you playing? this is pretty mich average on micros...

see this thread!

http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/28...-rake-1272845/

and this

http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/15...games-1289667/

Can someone please point me to a 101 beginner/math-n00b starting point for understanding equity and thinking properly about the numbers behind this all, as opposed to a basic 'I have a wrap plus flush draw - I shove!' sort of thinking I have stuck to since I started PLO...

I have the massive, massive hole in my game of barely thinking about the math and odds from any real standpoint, and instead it is more a 'hope for the best' if I have a really strong draw - which is obviously not a good long term approach. I have a decent understanding of basic principles, positional advantage, starting hands and so on, and have had a great run in the micros simply by ABC'ing it and taking advantage of others' appalling play, but I simply can't seem to do a thing right when I step up beyond 0.05/0.10 small stakes. My game is very much about relying on other people to be terrible and exploit that rather than learning how to play against competent opponents...

First off, do you know how to use propokertools or PPT?

You need to start thinking about ranges, for instance say you are playing against a very aggressive player on a board of Qs8s4d

We c-bet and he c/rs, typically very aggressive players will c/r their good-medium draws, two pairs+ and c/c everything else. So against that range if you had something like AdQcJs2s you have a hand that is actually doing quite well against his range of stacking off and if it was incredibly wide, this hand becomes a perfect candidate to bet/shove over his c/r as our hand plays mediocre on later streets with low visibility if we have the best hand.

On the flip side if we were against a more passive opponent who only check/raised top two pair, sets, and strong draws, our equity is going to be less and bet/shoving becomes -EV. We still have too much equity to b/f but in this case, his range is more defined and we have actual visibility on later streets because his range is mainly made hands, so not only do we get to decide quite easily when the spade hits if we have the best hand but we also can potentially bluff on the straightening cards as they do not hit his range as hard as ours.

Hopefully this helps.

You should be constructing of a range of hands that play well postflop against their wide preflop range. Hands that hit strong top pairs and strong equity often are what you are looking for. hands like 8754ds and weak AA/KK if the opponent is aggressive are by far the worst types of hands to 3 bet in this spot, hands like KQT7ds are what you are looking for, as well as hands like AT97ssa.

If a player clearly hates folding then the last thing you want to do is try to make him fold unless his range is clearly wide and weak, even then some players rarely fold this range until the river. Your best option is to 3 bet a wide range for postflop value and then stack off quite wide when you hit TP plus, this is going to put you immensely out of your comfort level but this is where your a huge % of your edge besides of course making strong/nut hands. You should be looking to value bet this player very thin as well.

Ironically not playing enough hands out of hte blinds is probably why your non SD is so negative. That said, its almost impossible given how the rake interacts to have a positive SD line in PLO because postflop is more relevant in PLO than NL. That said though you probably are not value betting thin enough on the river as well choosing to bluff catch when you should be v-betting most likely. You could also be folding way too much equity in 3 bet pots which is an extremely common leak, for instance bet/folding AKTx on a JT3r board against an aggressive opponent.

CardRunners is proud to introduce our newest PLO pro, GoGetaRealJob. In his first video, Ville plays four tables of $200 PLO 6-max on Full Tilt. Topics include raising, pot control, three-betting, and more.

link

So sick. CR PLO domination continues.

The micro-PLO vid I promised will also be a CR production, hopefully published in a couple weeks

Congrats sir!!!

Hello 2+2,

I have a kind of dilemma what to do with my bankroll and choosing 'proper' games and limits :P My poker bankroll is around 850$ and generally I want to play omaha everyday but I understand the thing with rake on micros etc. etc so it's not problem for me to grind hold'em for few months (I have nice background on hold'em games but have to withdraw money and I've been running very bad on crazy omaha shots). So, I'm about to make a first deposit on Ipoker (William Hill etc.) because I've got a 50% flat rb there.

Main question (assuming popular sentence concerning omaha "play as high as it's possible") should I better buy Omaha Manager and quickly start grinding or grind some nlhe on nl10/nl25 up to 2000$ (which is not riskful considering my rakeback combo) and then move to PLO20/PLO50?. I'm strongly motivated and looking forward to you replies Thanks!

p.s. I've got holdem manager 2 and I can take some sessions with guy that plays ~PLO400 on stars.

depends on how u feel about reloading

if u wanna play it real safe, prob grind NLHE till that 2k and switch to PLO25 then. if u don't mind realoading a couple hundos now and then, just take shots at PLO25 with the current roll