Been touching up some paint recently. The cans sit for a long time between use. When I open them, the rim and lid have a little rust on them, and the top of the can has a film of paint around the edge.

Re-closing the lid (tapping with a hammer around the perimeter) doesn't seem like it seals great afterward either. Is there a trick to storing paint cans?

Oh man - I recently did the dumpster thing when I deep cleaned my home and had no less than 80 cans of paint stored, some were from before we even bought this house. Luckily the county runs a monthly latex paint disposal and I almost filled the bed of a pickup with cans.

The best idea I have seen was to transfer the leftover paint you want to keep for touchup is Mason jars since they offer airtight lids and the ability to easily see the color. As a bonus they are standard size you can also find storage boxes or racks.

Was riding my mower today and the mower deck fell down on the left side. I didn't notice right away though. Mower was having trouble cutting grass. Finally realized what had happened when I noticed myself leaning to the right to make up for the tilt. I have a John Deere s100. I finished cutting my grass, but it looked like **** afterwards and I'm not sure how to fix the mower.

I had the same thing happen with a John Deere several years ago. On mine, there was a cotter pin (I think) missing on the the hanger supporting the deck on the low side. There was a rod hanging on each side above the deck that tied into the deck with cotter pins (again, I think).

Look at the areas between the deck and the upper frame of the mower on each side. If you have the same issue that I did, you will see that the connections between the deck and the upper frames look different. The side where the deck is higher is how they both should look. Just keep comparing one side to the other to see if you can spot an obvious difference. There is probably something wrong with the supporting connection on the side where the deck is lower, and hopefully you will be able to see it pretty quickly.

Mine was obvious, and it was a quick, easy, and cheap fix by going to Home Depot and buying a cotter key to replace the one that was missing.

Good luck.

We had a day of torrential rain here this week. Not unusual in itself in this part of the world, but it was coming in sideways, which is not common. Wife texts me in the afternoon that water is coming down from the master bedroom ceiling.

Of course, the rain ends before I get home, so forensics are tricky. I'm searching in the attic for signs of where the water came from, and the underside of the roof is all dry. Then I notice a small damp spot on the attic floor next to the chimney. I look up and see a crack of light between the chimney and the roof. Flashing not sealed. It's right up at the peak of the roof, so apparently it isn't normally a problem, but with the rain coming sideways it was hitting the side of the chimney and running down.

Could be worse. I'll need to do a little repair on the MB ceiling, but I don't think I'll have to rip out the drywall. Just a little sanding and mudding, I believe, though I'll also have to repaint the ceiling, the prep for which will be a PITA.

Quick question, my ac sprung a leak in the ceiling going from the condenser to the inside unit.


Ruined the hallway ceiling, there's a leak in the uninsulated copper line going from the condenser outside to the inside condensation pump.

I am unfamiliar with that line going directly to the pump, I thought only the condensate line from the inside unit was connected to that pump.

So my question is, can I just remove the section of copper line and replace the one foot section that has the leak with new copper line with a compression fitting on each end?
I'm wondering if the pressure would be too much.

Hate to replace it and the ceiling then find out it won't hold.

Unless you're an AC tech, or have worked on compressor units, yiu should call an hvac company to check it out. If it's a line from the compressor, then it's under pressure and you'll need to capture the refrigerant before fixing the line. It would probably also need to be brazed.

It's an uninsulated line, shouldn't have refrigerant in it, and I don't want to brazen it if I don't have to do so.

The puzzler to me is that it goes directly to the condensensation pump, I've never seen that before.

I would think it would go into the unit if it's the suction line.

And yes, normally I would call an ac tech but I'm not Scrooge McDuckin it right now.

All lines from Condenser (outside unit) to evaporator (indoor coil) should have refrigerant (unless it has all leaked out).

Refrigerant must be recovered, the ruptured portion of the line removed and a new section MUST be braised in. Compression fittings will NOT work.

After repairing this section of pipe, you should pump the system down to a negative pressure and leave it to make sure it holds. Then you can add refrigerant back-but make sure it is the correct amount or you risk damaging your compressor if you under or over charge the system. Also, you should add a liquid line dryer to capture any non-condensables that have gotten into the system during this process.

Do you have a vacuum pump, extra refrigerant, and an acetylene torch to sweat the lines? If not your probably better off paying a professional.

One last item-do you know what type of refrigerant your unit has? R22, R410A, R12?

If you put the wrong refrigerant in your system will not work-the manufacturers tag on the condenser should have the model number which will allow you to look the unit up and answer this question-but you will need a source to buy some-most states will require you to have a license/permit to purchase it and be able to prove you can recover what’s in the system now-refrigerant is damaging to the atmosphere and shouldn’t be vented on purpose

I think the consensus here is that you need to call a professional.

more like IAMtheairconditioningtec

Hi my door got a small crack in it. Youtubr tutorials say to cut out a hole with a knife then fill it with foam, but im thinking maybe thats overkill for just the crack. I wad wondering if anyone has reccomendations, ill attach a pic thanks

How bad of a beat did you take? That looks like a 2 outer.

'f you're handy with a putty knife, you can just fill that dent with Bondo (or any of many other fillers), sand smooth, and repaint. I'd repaint the whole face of the door, as you'll never get a good match just painting the patch, even if you have the original paint, given the different surfaces/

That has the drunken "pushed when I should've pulled" door injury look to it.

As Garick said, little bit of wood putty, sand it down, repaint and you are done. I probably hold off on repainting the entire door until you are ready to repaint that room again.

Isn't that type of door really cheap to replace? Seems like the best solution.

That's what I thought. Or white duct tape. Hang a poster there.

Ahh, the college solution.

i thought the college solution was crest?
garick described what i would do

Crest (or Colgate, depending on paint color) is how you hide the holes once you take the poster off the dorm wall, LDO.

i somehow feel compelled to underscore the flow in exhibit a above but i dinnit dun it so i won't

anyone have a good website for chandlers?

I'd like to get a low profile Chandler for the dining room.

Ive seen some websites, but I don't see anything unique.

https://friends.fandom.com/wiki/Friends