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05-17-2019 , 09:07 PM
Why not do it at the time?

Say oops, clean it up with Shout and a scrubber and save everyone a headache.

Little **** like that is just as infuriating
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05-17-2019 , 09:10 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Villian1
As long as the sheetrock can be dried out and the insulation behind it did not get wet, there is no need to tear out the drywall.

If the Moisture Content of the wall is below 18% and the Relative Humidity in the room is below 58% you are in great shape.

If those conditions are not met, you should rent a commercial dehumidifier from a company like Sunbelt Rentals (ask for a Dri Eaze Revolution or similiar). You'll want to run that for about 3 days (depending on what the Moisture Content and Relative Humidity readings were). And also how big the space is.

After that, you should wipe down the surface mold with a safe, nontoxic mold cleaner. I will ship you mine for free in exchange for an honest review. That will denature the mold that is there and it will not regrow. Bleach does not kill mold. The spores survive and as soon Moisture or Humidity are re-introduced the mold will regrow.

Depending on the size of the compromised area I will send you fogger cans that you can set off in the space to kill any mold spores that remain in the air. If it's a large job, you might need to call (depending on your location) in one of the remediators that use our product and the will use the commercial grade formula to treat the infected area.

Basically, my company is changing how situations like this are dealt with. Using our protocol you will need to be out of your house for 3-4 hours instead of days for the simple fact it is a food grade enzyme. It is also extremely effective and kills MRSA, STAPH, E-Coli, Influenza, among many other pathogens. Our product also attaches itself to the walls, ceiling, floors, duct work, etc and will slowly dissipate into the air. With a Kill Rate of over 2 years, we guarantee that there will be mold growth in the treated area (barring any new leaks). And you do not have to completely remove your possessions or tear out drywall. We prefer you keep your possessions where they are so that mold spores do not spread to other area.

I really hope this doesn't come off as spam, it's just people (and insurance companies) have been taken for a ride for many years and we are trying to change that.

A lot of people don't believe our protocol/product works until they see it for themselves. We often do before and after air testing to prove that it did in fact work.

Shoot me a PM if you would like to hear more about it. I forget where you are (vegas?).

Either way, don't let any of those large companies talk you into tearing out the drywall. You really only need to tear the drywall out if the insulation is wet or the drywall is turning mush. Sometimes a "flood cut" (about a 4-6 inch cut around the base of the wall) is necessary to dry out the wall but that's really the most anyone should be tearing out.
Quoting for posterity. I'd hate for him to decide to delete this post.
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05-17-2019 , 09:48 PM
Eey,

Yeah, agreed. I'm gonna give the dude a pass due to his fairly obvious social and communication deficits.

Villain,

Seems like your enzyme should have fairly huge implications for hospitals/etc where staph and MRSA are giant problems?

Re Closets,

Man I have not found a single one of the online closet designers that isn't garbage. But fortunately the container store is like 2 blocks from HD so I can go in and get a design and quote from each of them by setting aside an hour?

I am pretty pumped about turning my 1 37" rod into like, 1 12" tall rod and 2 24" rods stacked, so gaining about 2 feet of hanging space. Getting some drawers/etc in the process would be great too.

[sidenote: intentional handful of weeks unemployed is going great for home improvement checklist so far!]
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05-17-2019 , 10:11 PM
Cit,

Yeah, I just gave a presentation 2 days ago to a large group of healthcare professionals. We'll see what happens.
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05-18-2019 , 06:11 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Villian1
Shoot me a PM if you would like to hear more about it. I forget where you are (vegas?).
PM sent. Thank you!
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05-18-2019 , 06:14 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregorio
Suit, instead of bleach, something like this or this.
I used the 2nd one myself when I had mold in my basement from flooding. It seems to have done the job there. Thank you for the links.
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05-21-2019 , 08:26 AM
Help me with my House Plans, Part 2:

So, almost two years ago, we had this discussion where I shared the house plans that our designer had come up with and our frustrations with them. The plans were pretty much ripped apart, notably by zizak and ninetynine99, who both gave some incisive, if hard to hear, feedback/design-trolling. Going way above and beyond, ninetynine99, a talented architecht, even did a design for us to illustrate how he thought our plan could be a whole lot better.

We still don't have a house. I won't rehash the last two years entirely, but we've mostly been busy enough, content enough with our rental, and frustrated enough with this process that we've only occasionally worked at it. That occasional work has moved us along (though slowly) and we're now to a place where we feel solid about our most recent design. So I'm wondering what you all think again.

We took our then-current plans, along with ninetynine99's sketches, to a local timber-frame company, thinking we'd try something new. They were excited to try to draft something along the lines of ninenine99's awesome plans, but after we priced everything out it just didn't seem like it made sense. The level of custom work required more expense than we can budget for and likely more construction resources than readily exist in our very rural area.

So we designed a house around a timber-frame central square, with timber frame front and back porch features. It comes in at about our square-footage goal (3000, main level and lower-level), and it features a lot of what we want. It's got a loft above the kitchen that we like and feels a lot more organized. What do you all think? Obvious changes? More substantial criticism?

Main Level Plan


Lower Level Plan


Front Elevation


Rear Elevation

Interior renderings

Interior Renderings



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05-21-2019 , 10:07 AM
I'm no design expert, but that looks a lot more like a lake house/cabin than your last design. I like it.

Reading the last discussion was also interesting, as I'd missed it before.

My aesthetic preferences are different than 99's, but he clearly really knows what he's talking about and makes things integrate.

zikzak was great too. Hope he comes back.
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05-21-2019 , 08:16 PM
scalp,

I'll take a hard look later tonight, but right off the bat you don't want access to your master closet from the bathroom. Put a pocket door just inside the master entry door.
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05-21-2019 , 08:44 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garick
I'm no design expert, but that looks a lot more like a lake house/cabin than your last design. I like it.
Thanks! I feel better about it too. Not perfect, but better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 27offsuit
I'll take a hard look later tonight, but right off the bat you don't want access to your master closet from the bathroom. Put a pocket door just inside the master entry door.
Yeah - that's kind of how I feel about it, but I've seen so many plans like that (for instance, ninetynine99 had a closet---> bathroom entry in the plans he mocked up two years ago. It seems weird to me, but I guess I'm not worried about it from an intimacy standpoint or anything. And it's one fewer door plus the easy ability to shut a door and completely get ready without disturbing a sleeping partner. I dunno.
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05-21-2019 , 08:53 PM
Add some space to the bedrooms. If this house is in the US, I could see resale being a problem with the room sizes, as us Americans are typically fat and usually want things bigger than we need

- the guest suite is bigger than the master
- that is a tiny master. I live in a 2200 sf house and I don’t think any of my 4 bedrooms are that small
- the 2 bedrooms that are 11.5x9, that’s super tiny. Who is sleeping in those? If kids, I hope they’re tiny.

- it appears there is no door between the master closet and the bathroom, which is a problem anytime someone takes a shower and the bathroom steams up and migrates into your closet containing all of your clothes.
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05-21-2019 , 10:34 PM
Here is my hot take:


This says Laundry Chute but was cut off^^^





Your biggest MUST is moving the laundry. Master needs that space. The Master Bath seems like an afterthought. Just a very bad layout.

Things I would like to know. PM if you would like to keep those private.

1: What state?
2: How much did these plans cost?
3: Is the designer young?
4: Is it a company or sole practitioner?

While not the worst plans, there is a lot of lolbad in there. Feel free to hit me up with any questions, further explanation.


Edit: Didn't realize beforehand that there was a bar/counter on right side of Dining so disregard slider suggestion.

Last edited by 27offsuit; 05-21-2019 at 10:50 PM.
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05-21-2019 , 11:23 PM
27,
I don't think you are considering hauling baskets of laundry clear across the house. Laundry room should be as close the bedroom as possible.
Incorporated into the master bath would be excellent. Just get undressed and toss the clothes in the wash! Newborn baby can't sleep, the dryer is just steps away from the bed!(obv to put the baby in a car seat on top of the dryer for vibrations and warmth...do not shake babies or put them in dryers)
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05-21-2019 , 11:39 PM
Yes MLY, lets put the Laundry Room in the Master Bath, good idea. I know I for one like standing in the bathroom folding laundry.

Orrr...you could have a laundry chute conveniently located in the closet of the only bedroom on the main floor and have it drop directly into the laundry room downstairs. The same laundry room that is also steps away from the other three bedrooms in the house.

Good call MLY. smh
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05-21-2019 , 11:49 PM
so this is very small in scope here -- but i don't want to **** up this minor project. kegerator build, and yes, this is an essential part of my house and is relevant to the thread:

https://www.beveragefactory.com/imag...t-guide_32.pdf

steps 5-7 here - ok, i get drilling the pilot hole in step 4, but why am i drilling from each side in steps 5-6? isn't step 6 punching through the entire door to begin with?

maybe i'm not getting this. step 6 just goes through the outer frame, the washer sits up against that, and nozzle goes through the smaller hole drilled through the inner side? i guess to make the seal more tight?

idk i'm drunk already, so yeah, i really need a kegerator done right, help a brother out
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05-21-2019 , 11:53 PM
I think that is to just make a clean hole on both sides. If you just drill straight through from outside to inside(or vice versa), the exit hole is going to be torn to ****. That's what she said.
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05-21-2019 , 11:59 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 27offsuit

While not the worst plans, there is a lot of lolbad in there. Feel free to hit me up with any questions, further explanation.
.

I'm no architect, but you prolly don't want to build a house that's leaning in the plans.



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05-22-2019 , 12:04 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 27offsuit
I think that is to just make a clean hole on both sides. If you just drill straight through from outside to inside(or vice versa), the exit hole is going to be torn to ****. That's what she said.
ok cool. i wondered if it was like a second pilot hole, or if there was some sort of other reason for it. thx
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05-22-2019 , 12:09 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by MeLoveYouLongTime
.

I'm no architect, but you prolly don't want to build a house that's leaning in the plans.




Are you high woman?
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05-22-2019 , 07:14 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by MeLoveYouLongTime
27,
I don't think you are considering hauling baskets of laundry clear across the house. Laundry room should be as close the bedroom as possible.
Incorporated into the master bath would be excellent. Just get undressed and toss the clothes in the wash! Newborn baby can't sleep, the dryer is just steps away from the bed!(obv to put the baby in a car seat on top of the dryer for vibrations and warmth...do not shake babies or put them in dryers)
while i don't disagree with having the laundry near the bedrooms, have you ever slept in the immediate vicinity of a running washer/dryer? mine are brand new this week, very nice machines, located with a wall and 30' between the family room and laundry room, i still have to turn the TV volume up. i'm guessing if one was a light sleeper, they wouldn't want to sleep in basically the same room as their laundry room.

additionally, at least in the US north east, the laundry room is rarely in a convenient place compared to the occupants rooms. not that building a house from scratch someone should make the laundry room an afterthought and throw it where ever, but it is not uncommon for it to be a little bit of a walk. hell, lots of times the laundry is in the basement and all the bedrooms are on the 2nd floor.
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05-22-2019 , 07:17 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by MeLoveYouLongTime
.

I'm no architect, but you prolly don't want to build a house that's leaning in the plans.



is this serious? i honestly can't tell after the counter/sink debate.
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05-22-2019 , 07:26 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BilldaCat
so this is very small in scope here -- but i don't want to **** up this minor project. kegerator build, and yes, this is an essential part of my house and is relevant to the thread:

https://www.beveragefactory.com/imag...t-guide_32.pdf

steps 5-7 here - ok, i get drilling the pilot hole in step 4, but why am i drilling from each side in steps 5-6? isn't step 6 punching through the entire door to begin with?

maybe i'm not getting this. step 6 just goes through the outer frame, the washer sits up against that, and nozzle goes through the smaller hole drilled through the inner side? i guess to make the seal more tight?

idk i'm drunk already, so yeah, i really need a kegerator done right, help a brother out
Quote:
Originally Posted by 27offsuit
I think that is to just make a clean hole on both sides. If you just drill straight through from outside to inside(or vice versa), the exit hole is going to be torn to ****. That's what she said.
+1.

this is a common process when drilling things that need to look good on both sides. easiest example i can think of off the top of my head is the hole for door knobs are typically drilled like this.
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05-22-2019 , 07:31 AM
I have built several kegerators using that same kit. The reason is that it's almost impossible to center your 1 /38" hole if you drilled the 7/8" all the way through, and the smaller hole on the inside gives more purchase for the shank nut to keep the tap stable.

I highly recommend that you use a self-centering hole saw, either with a built-in pilot hole bit, or with the ability to insert one of your regular drill bits. It makes keeping everything lined up much simpler.

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05-22-2019 , 08:01 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 27offsuit
Are you high woman?
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny_on_the_spot
is this serious? i honestly can't tell after the counter/sink debate.
Maybe I'm just seeing things weird, but it looks like that balcony is leaning with the bottom post and bottom windows not drawn straight.
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05-22-2019 , 08:33 AM
it's just a rendering. i wouldn't look too much into it. could be something as simple as the plans were given to OP as hard copies and he scanned them and they didn't scan correctly.
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