Velcro would hold it too.

This was under the sink? Do you even glue pvc (abs?) drains under the sink? Don't all those fittings just have plastic threaded pressure fitting things?

Maybe it's something buried in the wall?

He was doing work under the sink. When I pointed out the spots when he was first here he was like "huh I didn't even use primer on this job. Must have dripped off my bag or something." Very nonchalant considering it seems the right response should have been "holy **** I'll use my cleaner asap otherwise this could be a disaster for your floor."

Then he left. Then I tried water and a paper towel to confirm it wasn't my kid's water paint. Then I googled. Then I got pissed.

You have to glue a trap adapter to the pipe that is roughed in underneath the sink. I never hard pipe all the way to the sink. PVC takes the primer and glue. ABS takes black cement. I have taken a razor blade to scrape away primer or glue when some has dripped.

To the earlier question about an undermount sink. They are installed after the countertop has been installed. But the edges of the cut should be finished. Usually it is the counter guy or general contractor that installs an undermount sink. Then the plumber would do the rest.

Is the PVC water supply? Around here I think you only see PVC water supply when it's buried in the earth.

I was thinking this as well.
Or seriously just fold some duck tape to hold it up.

With velcro, you will just need to pull it down every month. With screws you will have to unscrew the screws from overhead, possibly dropping them, crawling on the floor looking for them and then banging your head on the corner of the cabinets.

Yeah, I was thinking of doing Command strips with velcro. I'll probably pull the screws from the intake on the other end of the house, confirm that they fit, and then take one to HD to find more of the same. If it turns out the other side of the house has janky screws too, I'll just spend the $15/vent to get new vents with sliding latches to close. And yes, I'll be cleaning the vents before ending this task set.

If a razorblade works to get the primer up, so be it. But the plumber's going to do that, not me. And if he damages the finish on the wood, regardless of method, he's going to pay for the flooring guy to fix it.

Other random question:

Does anyone have a closet system recommendation they like better than the Container Store Elfa stuff that isn't break the bank?

My master bedroom closet is 40" wide and currently has one bar, basically high enough so that dresses do not touch the ground.

Thinking about raising the bar about 18", and installing a double bar on 1/2 of the width. Then we'd have dresses on one side, and other stuff still having about 36-38" of hanging space. Then, with the new clearance off the floor, some pull out drawer things. I'd also be raising up the current above bar shelves.

40" is pretty narrow, and the entry to the closet is awkward. But the closet is also deep. So I'm thinking I could narrow shelves along basically the front of one of the walls for shoes, too. This might do better with a drawing or picture, too.

Regardless, it seems like exactly what I want can be had for about $750 at Container Store, installed (free installation sale going on). More expensive than buying materials myself, but much less chance of me screwing it up!

My new closet seems similar to yours,except probably not as deep. We did the ikea pax and it works really well and was like 700 CAD. The drawers are super deep and can fit a ton, and then there's one row of my wife's dresses and then enough room for my shirts as well. Still trying to figure out how to fill all the shelves lol.

Shoot. Just realized my closet doors are 40" but the closet is wider. Regardless, might be worth looking into.

Isunk,

Thanks - I had no idea Ikea had a line of closet things.

Looks great! And I love the dark blue walls with white furniture.

Thank you the paint colour is Hale Navy by Benjamin Moore if anyone is interested. I'm in love with it

PVC would be the drains and vents. Hopefully any water lines would be copper or pex pipe. And if pex should be copper stub outs and not pex stubbed out of wall.

I don’t like pvc water mains. They break too easily. We only install copper mains. Though you can a mix of poly pipe, copper, pvc, and the original galvanized here in Seattle.

I thought you generally did ABS for drain, PVC for supply/sprinklers. I'm an electrician - use gray PVC for buried conduit. I've also done a few solar pool systems w/PVC.

I think PVC is more and East coast thing, definitely haven't seen it in California.

Rough plumbing question, my old boss had a plumber redo do the rough on a house that caught fire and the inspector saw too much abs glue above and below the fittings and failed them within 1 minute. He said it compromises the integrity of the pipe. I never heard of that before. I dont remember how bad it looked but the plumber isnt thst great at finish since I have worked with him randomly over the years.

Never heard of such a thing but anything is possible.

Some inspectors make up their own rules or don't know all the rules, and that sucks

The inspectors in my town don’t actually inspect anything. I got busted doing work without permits and I knew of at least 3 things that weren’t to code. Guy walked in looked around for 45 seconds and passed me.

Dunno, but I would think it would matter less on a drain and not under pressure.

PVC is nationwide as far as I know. Our shop only uses pvc. ABS uses a type of cement that welds the connection together. If you have a drip you could put a little more cement around it to seal it. The inspectors here want to see that you have used primer. That’s why we use purple instead of clear. So that the inspector can actually see it.

Anyone have any experience dealing with surface mold on painted sheetrock? I'm curious if it is at all possible that it didn't make its way past the paint into the sheetrock. I'm assuming it will have to be all tore out and replaced, but would be a huge relief if not. What happened is the house sat unoccupied through the winter and the crazy change in temps caused condensation to form on the walls and ceilings which caused mold growth. I have dealt with mold from a flooded basement before where the mold is behind the sheetrock on studs and whatnot, but curious if there is any saving grace with it on the other side of the rock only.

Just wipe down with bleach water mix and see if it comes off.

Conditions in the house could have caused the mold to grow on the paint, so don't get too excited yet.

Don't use bleach. Do some research and find a mold killer. OSHA and the EPA also do not recommend using bleach on mold.

This is why you use bleach, it removes mold but doesn't go into the substance.

So then if the mold comes back, its gotten past the paint into the sheetrock .

Not completely foolproof but a starting point

Suit, instead of bleach, something like this or this. I used the first one to kill mold on the interior of my painted foundation wall but I think it's suitable for most surfaces. I'll also see if I can get this guy in here.

As long as the sheetrock can be dried out and the insulation behind it did not get wet, there is no need to tear out the drywall.

If the Moisture Content of the wall is below 18% and the Relative Humidity in the room is below 58% you are in great shape.

If those conditions are not met, you should rent a commercial dehumidifier from a company like Sunbelt Rentals (ask for a Dri Eaze Revolution or similiar). You'll want to run that for about 3 days (depending on what the Moisture Content and Relative Humidity readings were). And also how big the space is.

After that, you should wipe down the surface mold with a safe, nontoxic mold cleaner. I will ship you mine for free in exchange for an honest review. That will denature the mold that is there and it will not regrow. Bleach does not kill mold. The spores survive and as soon Moisture or Humidity are re-introduced the mold will regrow.

Depending on the size of the compromised area I will send you fogger cans that you can set off in the space to kill any mold spores that remain in the air. If it's a large job, you might need to call (depending on your location) in one of the remediators that use our product and the will use the commercial grade formula to treat the infected area.

Basically, my company is changing how situations like this are dealt with. Using our protocol you will need to be out of your house for 3-4 hours instead of days for the simple fact it is a food grade enzyme. It is also extremely effective and kills MRSA, STAPH, E-Coli, Influenza, among many other pathogens. Our product also attaches itself to the walls, ceiling, floors, duct work, etc and will slowly dissipate into the air. With a Kill Rate of over 2 years, we guarantee that there will be mold growth in the treated area (barring any new leaks). And you do not have to completely remove your possessions or tear out drywall. We prefer you keep your possessions where they are so that mold spores do not spread to other area.

I really hope this doesn't come off as spam, it's just people (and insurance companies) have been taken for a ride for many years and we are trying to change that.

A lot of people don't believe our protocol/product works until they see it for themselves. We often do before and after air testing to prove that it did in fact work.

Shoot me a PM if you would like to hear more about it. I forget where you are (vegas?).

Either way, don't let any of those large companies talk you into tearing out the drywall. You really only need to tear the drywall out if the insulation is wet or the drywall is turning mush. Sometimes a "flood cut" (about a 4-6 inch cut around the base of the wall) is necessary to dry out the wall but that's really the most anyone should be tearing out.

Following up on purple primer:

Plumber spilled 6 drops of purple crap on my floor on Tuesday afternoon. He returned 72h later and sprayed a couple times with Shout!, and rubbed with a green sponge thing by 3M. The purple crap came up immediately and the impact to the finish on the floor was effectively not noticeable.

GG I suppose!

nice