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05-15-2019 , 10:14 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by electricladylnd
Bathroom painting seems high but bathrooms are the worst to paint, so much cutting in. Doors can cost $200ea to paint, maybe there is a lot of prep, if they are oil base and now using water base paint, or if they are sprayed vs brushed and rolled. Ceiling will cost about $100 with paint. Walls will be about $400 depending if you have a pedestal sink and towel bars that need to be removed and reattached. Depends if the painter is licensed too for a 15-20% markup.
The deal includes paint and all other materials. He has some sort of deal with Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore, so he can get it cheaper than we can (difference is not that much relative to cost of project). So we just tell him what paint we want and he gets it. He's licensed. There are towel bars that need to be removed/attached. I don't think the doors have oil based paint currently.

I did get another estimate for $300 for labor only. Doesn't sound like he is going to spray it on (for whatever that's worth). That guy gave the quote over the phone (hasn't seen the bathroom in person) and canceled when we had a time to meet (and potentially start) set up.

Hopefully I can find a middle ground between these two extremes.
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05-15-2019 , 10:53 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by MeLoveYouLongTime
Can you replace a drop in sink with an undermount after the counters are cut and installed?


Are the edges of the cutout finished?
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05-16-2019 , 11:23 AM
My DIY-fu is not strong. So this is definitely a basic question for most of you.

I went to replace an air filter yesterday. It is behind a covering in the ceiling in my kitchen. The covering is held on by 2 screws. When I took them out, I found that they were 2 different lengths. One about 3" the other about 1.5", each with a washer.

When I went to put them back in, having replaced the filter, the screws didn't grab anything and just basically fell out and the covering fell open. Seems fairly likely that the screws were kind of just held in place originally by tension, given other things I've seen around my home.

What should I do here if my goal is to have a long-term usable cover? I don't think I can drill new holes as there are only the existing holes in the metal of the cover. Is there a way to like, sink an anchor? Convert to some kind of magnetic closure? Something else obvious?

For today's bonus part 2: the plumber I had in to fix the pipes under my kitchen sink (where the P trap had become detached from the drain somehow, randomly?) managed to spill a few drops of purple PVC primer on my floor and is now attempting to ghost me. The internet is NOT positive on the chances of this being a trivial "apply cleaner" fix. (Since the floor is wood, and the cleaners apparently take finish off wood at minimum.) Fairly frustrated!

Why do we buy homes again?
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05-16-2019 , 11:41 AM
What is above the filter cover? Does in attach to a frame? If so, just wider screws will likely do the job.

Can you post a pic of it open?
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05-16-2019 , 12:13 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garick
What is above the filter cover? Does in attach to a frame? If so, just wider screws will likely do the job.

Can you post a pic of it open?
Sure thing:





Above the filter is like, a hole in the ceiling leading to I assume the air intake for my AC (heat is radiator). You can see the frame (with its 2 screw holes) mounted into the ceiling as well.

I'd be happy if larger screws were the solution. Given the need to remove and replace the screws repeatedly (every 3 mo or so for new filter?) should I worry that screws will just naturally deteriorate the drywall and then eventually leave me with the same problem again?

(Also, a while back I posted about weird ceiling nipple things where various contractors have not been able to remove fixtures and leave the ceiling flat/blank. I assume that's the case with this weird thing in the corner of the kitchen, too.
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05-16-2019 , 12:21 PM
So take the metal frame out and check if there is a wood frame to attach to.

If not, you need to build one between the ceiling joists.

Two pieces of 2x4 between ceiling joists should be there, which the metal frame attaches, as well as the duct.

May have to get in the attic to see it.

Maybe it has stripped out the holes that attaches the metal frame.

You don't need to ever take that metal frame out to change a filter.

Once its solidly attached, the filter is just slid into place and held by the grill.
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05-16-2019 , 12:41 PM
That's overdoing it, imo. The screws don't need to engage with the drywall, just with the frame. They are holding very little weight.

Someone put the wrong screws in there, probably because they lost them and replaced with whatever was handy. You just need to find screws that engage the sides of the holes in the frame.
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05-16-2019 , 12:41 PM
I think i'd just find a nutsert to fit the hole so you have some proper threads. could use wingnuts after that for easier access
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05-16-2019 , 12:43 PM
Eeyorefora,

Sorry if I was unclear -

The part that is currently hanging down was attached/closed by the power of 2 screws.

Those screws (which go in 2 holes toward the top of pic 2) have to be removed each time you want to replace the filter.

The frame itself is solidly attached to the ceiling.

I've previously only lived places where these filters are vertical and the enclosure is sealed with a small screw that is attaching metal to metal. This is pretty different to me.

Sorry as well if I misunderstood your post.
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05-16-2019 , 12:47 PM
Thinman,

I've never heard of a nutsert before but that's a pretty cool thing. I'll look into it.

Garick,

Seems about right (especially considering the multiple screw types that were in there). I wonder if I can just google the item and it'll tell me what screw I need. ...
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05-16-2019 , 12:49 PM
Oh....ok .

So its the hinge on the frame.

I just went and got a new frame at Locke Supply when they broke.
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05-16-2019 , 12:50 PM
I have two air intakes similar to that.

Garick is correct.

One of mine has small threaded thumbscrews that screw into the frame.

The other has "screws" that require only a 90* turn (and no more) to lock.

I am going to guess that if there were wood screws or oversize machine screws in yours, that whatever threads were in the frame have been stripped already.

That's my diagnosis; I have no suggestion about the best plan of treatment.
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05-16-2019 , 12:55 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by citanul
Eeyorefora,

Sorry if I was unclear -

The part that is currently hanging down was attached/closed by the power of 2 screws.

Those screws (which go in 2 holes toward the top of pic 2) have to be removed each time you want to replace the filter.
The part that is hanging down is on hinges? All you need to do is pick up some fatter screws that will grab in those holes in the frame. Worst case scenario is you go pick up some self drilling screws and just put one right in the middle or put two like an inch away from the old holes and that should hold it just fine.
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05-16-2019 , 12:58 PM
More importantly, clean that thing!
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05-16-2019 , 01:07 PM
Eey,

Sort of - it's the screws that hold the non-hinge side closed.

If I have to have an HVAC guy in in the near future should I just buy 2 new frames with a non-screw enclosure and have him install them while he's here? I feel like that's abdicating on my desires to become slightly more handy.
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05-16-2019 , 01:14 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by citanul
Eey,

Sort of - it's the screws that hold the non-hinge side closed.

If I have to have an HVAC guy in in the near future should I just buy 2 new frames with a non-screw enclosure and have him install them while he's here? I feel like that's abdicating on my desires to become slightly more handy.
You can do that or take it off yourself and go to a heat/air supply company and get them yourself, that way you get the right size.

Just turn off the unit while you do it.

I didn't try to fix the last one because it was in a rental and I've learned that renters can screw up stuff just doing routine maintenance.

Might just be able to get the grill and latches and then just switch out the old ones.
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05-16-2019 , 02:55 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Suit
The part that is hanging down is on hinges? All you need to do is pick up some fatter screws that will grab in those holes in the frame. Worst case scenario is you go pick up some self drilling screws and just put one right in the middle or put two like an inch away from the old holes and that should hold it just fine.
This. Frame replacement, ceiling modification, etc is all way over the top. The hinges still work fine. Your only problem is that the screws aren't engaging. This is a 20-cent and 5-minute fix. Not sure why most folks are overthinking this so much.
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05-16-2019 , 02:59 PM
I’m surprised nobody suggested duct tape. Seriously though, what the last post said.
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05-16-2019 , 03:01 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garick
That's overdoing it, imo. The screws don't need to engage with the drywall, just with the frame. They are holding very little weight.

Someone put the wrong screws in there, probably because they lost them and replaced with whatever was handy. You just need to find screws that engage the sides of the holes in the frame.
This. Probably a bit fatter screws with big threads will hold it fine.
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05-16-2019 , 03:03 PM
cit,

That purple pvc primer really seeps into things. I don't think there's any hope of getting it out/cleaned. I think the only hope is to cover it somehow. (colored wax or stain or something)
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05-16-2019 , 03:31 PM
micro/Garick,

Is the goal here a fatter screw that will catch on the metal of the frame that is mounted on the ceiling, or something that will catch on the drywall above? If the drywall, why won't repeated screwing/unscrewing eventually wear away the drywall? Maybe I've answered my first question in my second.

micro,

Yeah, the internet is pretty pessimistic on whether the purple is going to come out. As it is my kitchen with light floors and the rest of the house is matching light floors I don't think "re-stain the whole kitchen" is going to be an option I'm open to. I'm fully expecting the purple to be non-removable, and that my next step will be pushing with the owners of the plumbing company to have them pay for me to have a flooring person to come out and replace the 2 boards which are damaged. Sad. I'm pretty sure these are original 100 year old boards that lived a whole life before this guy.
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05-16-2019 , 03:36 PM
If they're that old, restaining the whole floor may be what needs to be done in order to not have a large off color spot.

Stain matching is an art and depending on the color, might be impossible.
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05-16-2019 , 03:37 PM
Quote:
Is the goal here a fatter screw that will catch on the metal of the frame that is mounted on the ceiling, or something that will catch on the drywall above? If the drywall, why won't repeated screwing/unscrewing eventually wear away the drywall? Maybe I've answered my first question in my second.
Yup. Frame holes, not drywall.
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05-16-2019 , 04:30 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eeyorefora
If they're that old, restaining the whole floor may be what needs to be done in order to not have a large off color spot.

Stain matching is an art and depending on the color, might be impossible.
Totally understood. But staining a dark color to outweigh the purple is not an option. If these plumbers need to pay to replace a floor, that's what's going to happen. Me staining the floor ebony or whatever to hide some clown's mistake is not going to happen.

I will reach out to my floor guy to see if he's the sort of artist who has confidence that he could match, but I'm generally not optimistic and fairly pissed off.
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05-16-2019 , 09:41 PM
Yup. Frame holes, not drywall.

Get your old lunchbox or jar full of random screws and dig something like this out that holds it up.

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