Anyone have any recs on a good counter depth refrigerator? I have an old subzero that will go when we remodel the kitchen. So my first instinct was to just replace with a new subzero, but those things seem to be colossally overpriced.

Based on my research, it seems like a good product, but it seems like I should be able to get at least 90% of the quality for a fraction of the cost. So, what's the best value substitute?

I've read a lot of refrigerator reviews, but they haven't been all that helpful.

Do you think you can put a cut-in box on the side of the wall, just around the corner from where they're coming out now? Once you cut the hole you should be able to reach your hand in and pull those wires back and out of the new hole. Unless that whole little bump out is studs.

I put vizgueen over the furniture. The flooring is being replaced due to a water leak so not worried about sawdust there.

According to code (Austin TX) I can't notch out studs in a load bearing wall. I think I am just going to put a shallow outlet box there and trim it out with some decorative molding. Gonna be cool to have 2 outlets within 2 feet of each other.

Guarantee you no-one will walk in and ever notice. The other wire is the end of series. Just cutting it and stuffing it back in the wall. And yes I disconnected it at the last outlet box and stuffed it in the wall as well.

PS. I hate anything to do with code enforcement.

Thanks for the advice!

I tapped the column on each side and it seems to be solid with support studs. That option would probably pass a home inspection, but not gonna chance it.

What I'm saying is that massive hunk of studs is >>>>>>>> more than you need to hold up whatever is above it. Per code. So if you can take a look at the top you will see 2 or 3 studs that are doing actual work, and a bunch of other pointless lumber that is just holding up drywall.

The working studs obviously can't be notched, but the deadwood certainly can.

btw, if you're super concerned about code enforcement you shouldn't be doing your own electrical work.

That column is on an exterior wall. I'm too old and fat to get over there thru the attic. And I don't care to do more drywall repair than I have too.

It's not my house. A licensed contractor quoted the homeowner ~$3,000.00 to do what took me less than 3 hours to do. I know the codes, but what a code inspector doesn't need to see didn't happen.

Seems like you're doing whatever to code as far as you've described - maybe and then some. I should probably know this, but I don't see a code problem with orphaned wire. I've certainly seen plenty of it.

Even if you put a box there you don't need an outlet. Just use a shallow box, terminate the wires, and put a blank plate on it. I certainly wouldn't put in a box that stuck out and trim around it w/ moulding.


Or better yet:
I'd be very surprised if you couldn't cut an opening for a remodel box on the side of that column facing the room w/ the white wall, reach in there and pull the wires backward and then out thru your new hole. Put a box and receptacle facing that room. No additional drywall repair necessary.

Yep, that. Or even make it a match to the one in the maroon room. As long as there's a tidge of room between the studs, you should be able to hook those wires with a coat hanger and pull them over into that wall.

That's admittedly a biggish if, though, and if it doesn't work you'll have a little more drywall patching to do.

The work may be done to code, but he can't legally do it per code. The homeowner exemption for licensing only applies to the actual homeowner, and isn't granted even to them in most municipalities now. It's been a while since I worked in Austin, but I'm pretty sure they will only issue permits to licensed electricians.

Of course nobody is going to GAF about a permit for that little job, so long as it's done by a licensed electrician. But technically it does require one, and if the wiring inspector or some other building official finds out an unlicensed tenant or friend of the homeowner is doing the work there's a very good chance they will start raising a fuss.

Ah. That varies by state. In CA he'd need a contractor's licence if the job is over $500. I don't know that he'd need an electrical cert if it weren't. It is over $500 though. I don't think it matters how much he's actually paid, but based on a reasonable valuation for the work including materials.

A friend is thinking about making an offer on this house - https://www.realtor.com/realestatean...7-78801#photo0

He doesn't much like the baseboard heating and is wondering about forced air/adding ducting and all or radiant floor and how much it might cost as a retrofit if only to consider that in deciding his offer price.

Any rough idea?

Radiant is nice, but expensive. Even more so since the basement ceilings are finished, and they'd all have to come out. And he'd still be stuck with baseboard downstairs unless he spent a small fortune. He'd be looking at tens of thousands even without doing the basement.

Forced hot air would be more affordable if there's an easy way to get ducts through the attic and to the finished parts of the basement, but forced hot air is horrid. It dries everything out, which is why people often stick a humidifier into the system, which then tends to cause condensation issues like were discussed up thread. They also turn the house into a static electricity minefield, blow dust everywhere, have filters that need to be constantly changed, cost more to run than baseboard, are often annoyingly loud, and overall people just find it less comfortable than other heating methods.

Cliffs: Approximately zero informed people would opt for forced hot air over baseboard, and radiant is likely to be prohibitively expensive in that house. Tell your friend he's being weird.

He is weird. He was worried about the electric baseboard and fires and his kids getting burned (kids are like 4 to 8). I don't think it's *that* hot. Also cost of operation.

Spending tens of thousands to do the main floor is possible and at least good info for him though. Thnx.

They're definitely not that hot, and no more of a fire hazard than any other heating system.

Kid will be getting mobile soon so need to anchor various dressers to wall, but our apt company is stingy about holes in the wall, curious if you all have recs of good options to minimize holes? I know some will be inevitable.

put wedges in the front like how boat or trailer ramps work? is that actually a concern tho? a kid deserves a medal if he can pull down a hundred pound piece of furniture..

Bookshelves are often easy to pull down. Dressers generally not. Not for a 2yo anyway.

But, put in what you want. The kid will be effing up the walls anyway.

Ikea recently had a huge recall over it's dressers smashing little melons.

My niece's daughter pulled a dresser down on top of herself when she was about two.

OK, I saw you disconnected the one wire. For the two that need to be spliced together, they make these that don't require a junction box, and don't need to be exposed, and they really are code complaint, at least in VA. I used several in my addition and they're easy to install, and tiny, so you can tuck them into that little gap in the studs:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Ele...-000/202204326

If you don't like that idea, what's underneath you? It looks like the wires are long enough to reach through the floor, any chance that's an unfinished basement ceiling?

That's pretty cool. I've never seen that romex splice before.

Yeah I think the main issue is even a light kid can generate a lot of leverage if they pull a high drawer out and pull down on it. Looking around seems like will probably be putting a screw into the wall and take the small hit on my security deposit I guess.

If you spackle over the hole when you leave and your walls are white, they're unlikely to even notice it during move-out inspection.