Thanks for the info. About 160 sq ft

Fella told me he could match my new wood floors to my old. I was dumb and didn’t ask for a sample. I showed up today and this is what I got. That’s an insta redo right? In my mind it’s not even close.

Left is original.

I would not accept that as a match.

He says they used waterproof fwiw

http://www.energyefficientsolutions....p?item=FOAM605

That kit is supposed to do 600 square feet at 1", so almost twice what you need, delivered to Ohio for $700. Not saying do it yourself, but it's a day of work at worst, and he's surely paying less for the material, so you could probably get the price down. 2" (R13) doesn't seem like that much for an exterior floor either. We have R30 between our garage and living space above, which should be warmer than a crawlspace, and I think the room above it is still colder than the rest of the house. So alternatively, if that room runs cold maybe you could get him to increase the thickness instead of dropping the price.

They're only charging 300 for the foam at 2" so that seems fair I suppose

Hoagie,

Did the guy tell you he was finished? Based solely on the picture, I'd say he's completed step 1 of a 2 step color matching process. The color does in fact look like a very good match but it's applied too heavily. I'm guessing that it was applied too heavily in order to get the deep part of the grain a dark enough color. He'll probably come back after it's dried and buff the new section, which will lighten up the overall color while leaving the deep part of the grain nearly black.

I'd say he's well on his way to a very good match.

He isn’t “finished” but he has already put a coat of poly on it so i can’t imagine he is planning on doing any buffing. He’s agreed to take a look at it with me tomorrow. His claim is that the people that did the original didn’t water pop it (which he claims is an error) and because he did the correct technique his work is the way it should look.

It’s definitely more annoying because my profession is color matching masonry and concrete and I told my contractor and this sub that I would be extremely picky when it came to this.

Then it's definitely a redo. I'd also tell him the original installer's technique is totally irrelevant because he told you he could match the new to the old. It's not even close to being a match, and since he's already got a coat of poly on it there's really no easy fix.

Is the stuff on the bottom just left of the blue tape also new?

They are good but make sure you take the restrictor out to give you more water pressure.

My one went bust and the new one installed has a restrictor and it just isn't the same but I'm not too fussy on my showers so don't really care.

It was refinished ~18 months ago. Before I owned the place. The darkest boards in the original aren’t a terrible match with the new.

Sounds like bull**** to me.

If he knew all this beforehand, why didn't he mention it to you?

He’s sanding it down and re staining as we speak.

You should tell him to just sand down and stain the whole floor, so he can be sure it actually matches this time.

This post is from last year. I had our heating company come out for winter service and I mentioned this problem. They said it’s most likely one if the windows in that bedroom is letting cold air in(it feels colder than the rest of the house as well). These windows were replaced in the whole house in 2015. Should I call a window repair company to come out and take a look?

Can you see how your ducts are run or is it all behind drywall? I have a similar problem--1 bedroom is way colder than the other two, and condensation forms on that window when all the other windows in the house are fine.

From the furnace room that has an open ceiling, I was able look along the duct branches running to these rooms and see that while the 2 warm rooms had their own dedicated branch, the branch running to the cold room also went to the bathroom, so all the heat would escape into the bathroom before making it to the cold bedroom. The more I close the bathroom vent, the more the room heats up (but the colder the bathroom gets obviously).

Could it be your duct work? If it's not exposed, maybe a smart HVAC person could figure out if you have a duct issue or rule that out. When I asked the guy who tunes up my furnace, he was not a smart HVAC person and told me maybe I should get my ducts cleaned in case something's blocking them.

Shouldn't have to tell him that in the first place.

That should have been step one.

Anyone familiar with sliding glass patio doors?

First company I inquired about a new sliding glass patio door gave me an estimate of $9k for a wood door with vinyl coating. I've asked them for an actual quote so I can see the breakdown of pricing but that seems absurd to me. It's a 9 foot wide space that currently has 3 sections (2 windows and 1 door). This was from Renewal by Andersen, I will be going to some other companies for pricing but if that's what I can expect to spend then I think this project will take a back seat.

That’s on me. I didn’t want to pay to have the whole house done. The line in the flooring is where a wall used to be. The majority of the line is covered by cabinets. So it was a decision between tiling the new kitchen area or matching the hardwoods. So the transition will only be visible in a ~4ft area.

Do you have any reason to suspect the windows other than some random service guy saying something? If you have a bad seal or other window problem there should be a very noticeable draft or temperature difference where it is.

I'd also like to re-re-reiterate that jacking up the humidity in your house during the winter is begging for condensation problems, which can include mold, mildew, and significantly reduced insulation performance.

It is slightly colder in that room than the adjacent bedroom during winter but other than that no. Do you recommend just not using central humidifier?

It just seems to me that he would mention it can't be an exact match due to aging of the finish, or do some sort of blending,not make a promise he can't keep to get the job.

I'm just the type to keep the homeowners expectations low and then exceed them if I'm fortunate.

Is your house uncomfortably dry, or do you just turn it on because it's there? If you really need it you should be fine as long as you keep the levels in line with what gregorio posted in response to you last year.

We’ve only been here for a little over a year so I haven’t gone through the cold months without it to know. When heat/AC company came for winter check she changed the filter in it and turned it on. I asked her about the condensation last year and she said most likely window is letting cold air in since it isn’t happening anywhere besides that room. I seemed skeptical I guess Bc the windows were so new and she called her boss to confirm.