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08-14-2019 , 10:40 AM
Refi update:

Bank is eating 100% of costs. Dropping 0.5% interest rate, ~10 months after initial purchase. Call your banks!
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08-14-2019 , 10:59 AM
when you refi, do they reassess your house? we've done a substantial amount of work and i'd want that taken into consideration
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08-14-2019 , 12:14 PM
In general they re-appraise your house as a recent appraisal is a requirement for mortgages.

Since we were refinancing within a year of purchase, the original appraisal was considered still valid.

I'd assume that if I specifically requested a new appraisal (if I'd done more significant work, or if I'd thought the market had moved for real), they'd have let me do that too.
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08-14-2019 , 04:09 PM
Cit what area do you reside in?
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08-14-2019 , 09:58 PM
Chicago.

Update: just found out that because of property tax spike, I have to bring a few thousand to close to replenish escrow. This cost was coming regardless of refinance, but still a mild bummer.
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08-14-2019 , 10:25 PM
It would have happened at the annual escrow rebalance anyway.
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08-14-2019 , 11:44 PM
That is literally what my last sentence meant, yes.

In random numbers aligning universe: refinancing will effectively let me "skip" September mortgage payment, which is almost exactly (within $30) what I'm going to have to outlay for escrow catch up. So I guess everything is in fact coming up Millhouse.
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08-18-2019 , 12:58 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by microbet
$200k+ seems very optimistic unless you are talking about $2M houses or so.

I have flipped two houses, one with cash and one with a loan.

The biggest equity you can get doing this is buying below market, which just comes from patience, a lot of looking and being able to execute quickly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Suit
I've actually just started doing this myself with the exception that it is not worth it for me to rebuild. I am strictly going with updating. I don't have much experience, but the loan I have gone with for my first one is more like a line of credit almost. I can't remember what it's called, but I find the property I want and negotiate my price with the seller. Then the bank sends out an appraiser who appraises the property with an "after repair value" based on what I tell them I will be doing for updates. The bank pays the seller for the property and then I get a line of credit for construction expenses. Say I pay 100k for the property and it's ARV is 200k, the bank will give me 60k in credit as it's only up to 80% of the value. For the first 12 months of the loan, I only pay interest payments on the amount I have used. The payments slowly get bigger as I dip more into that line of credit, but it gives me 12 months to do the work and get it sold before I really have to start paying. Interest isn't cheap at that amount, but I certainly don't need 12 months to flip a spot anyway. Hoping to only make 3 payments before it's all taken care of. I currently work a full time job, so this being my side gig for the moment it will take me 3 months probably to do a full flip. Hoping to make that 1 month or less when it is my only job.

As for tearing down and rebuilding from scratch, that seems like a lot more work for less return. If it takes you a year to finish a single project that nets you 200k, you might be able to do 10 projects in the same amount of time that will net you 30k each for a 300k total in the same amount of time. Depends on how much credit you have available and cash on hand if you can have that many fires burning while you are waiting for them to sell.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Berge20
So I'm in the middle of a new build process, and have found that there are a couple of things to consider. Not a total expert by any means, so make sure you call around. Happy to connect you with some NoVA folks if useful that I found helpful (depending on where exactly you are at).

The variety of lending options is significant, but varies from lender-to-lender. Some will only do a construction loan and then you have to figure out how to handle the long-term. This is a pain in the ass because you have to close twice. Some will do a construction-to-permanent loan with a single close, however, the product option on the permanent loan is not particularly flexible (at least in my experience) and many only do 7-year ARMs or 10-year balloons. You can find a bank that does both and can roll you into a 30-year fixed, but it took me a while to find (BB&T).

The lenders will each have different builder evaluation processes that range from a check-the-box type effort to a colonoscopy of the builder's financial situation. And some lenders will want the builder to be on their certified/approved list. This just adds a level of complexity and timing delays, but comes with a little more certainty the builder isn't going to collapse in the middle of your project.

All of these will give you 12 months to do the construction and charge a relatively similar interest rate (although not exact) on any draws that are made to pay the builder out.

Thanks for the responses.

Just to clarify, I'm not looking to flip a house. I'm looking for a home that I'll live in for at least 5 years, perhaps considerably longer.

I've basically got three options:
1. Buy a more or less turnkey home that I like and be done with it
2. Buy an old home and fix it up
3. Buy land and rebuild

I believe #3 is likely to fare better than #2 because a home built in 2020 will tend to appreciate faster than an old home that was renovated. In 2030, a 10 year old home vs a 70-80 year old home is a big difference. My understanding is even with major renovations, you don't get to claim the renovation year as the build year. You've got to do a total teardown in order to reset the build year. Even though it'll cost more upfront, I believe #3 is the better long term proposition than #2.

#3 is likely to be a bit cheaper upfront than #1, with the added perk that I'd get to live in a house that exactly meets my specs, rather than accepting what someone else built.

Of course, the major downsides of #3 are time and legwork. And there's the common sense question: if rebuilding is such a sound long term investment, why aren't more people doing it? What's the catch? I suppose there's only a limited pool of folks willing to pay the premium for new construction.
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08-18-2019 , 01:11 PM
Most people in this country can't think past next week much less longterm.
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08-18-2019 , 01:18 PM
It's not like a car. Very few people care much about build year if the home is otherwise in good condition and what/where they want. The only real challenges are actual physical problems, layouts of the era may not be to current taste, and neighborhood change over time.
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08-19-2019 , 12:22 AM
Outside of something really unique like a Frank Lloyd Wright house - houses depreciate. Land often appreciates enough to more than make up for this, but houses (including brand new ones) depreciate. As far as an investment to hold on to, the smallest cheapest oldest structure would be the best because there's not much to depreciate while the same land is there to appreciate.
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08-19-2019 , 08:43 AM
Yes, houses depreciate to a certain degree, but this is mostly a case of condition, not just a straight case of age.
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08-19-2019 , 09:00 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pasghettos
#3 is likely to be a bit cheaper upfront than #1, with the added perk that I'd get to live in a house that exactly meets my specs, rather than accepting what someone else built.

Of course, the major downsides of #3 are time and legwork. And there's the common sense question: if rebuilding is such a sound long term investment, why aren't more people doing it? What's the catch? I suppose there's only a limited pool of folks willing to pay the premium for new construction.
because building new usually isn't cheaper. idk where you got your numbers from. in my area, 20-30 year old homes, that were mostly turn key were going for like $150/sf. new construction was closer to $200/sf and that didn't include buying the land or any costs with utilities to the house (if any).

additionally:
1) time is money. even experienced contractors need to be watched. by you. through the entire construction. they will make mistakes. most don't have the ability to be around a construction for 4ish months
2) many people dont understand even the most rudimentary aspects of construction. this makes #1 harder
3) what ever a contractor tells you it's gonna cost to build new, assume it will cost 10-25% more.

fact is, buying a house is a lot like buying a car in the sense that there is always value in used because someone is always selling cheaper to get the money. thats typically not gonna happen with a contractor building a new house.
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08-19-2019 , 09:01 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by microbet
Outside of something really unique like a Frank Lloyd Wright house - houses depreciate. Land often appreciates enough to more than make up for this, but houses (including brand new ones) depreciate. As far as an investment to hold on to, the smallest cheapest oldest structure would be the best because there's not much to depreciate while the same land is there to appreciate.
Now I am glad I have a large lot and a lawn boy. Well, he is actually a lawn man. We used to have a lawn boy who is the lawn man's son, but he got bigger and decided he didn't want to be a lawn man.

My wife hired them as she didn't want either one of us mowing the yard.

Speaking of Frank Lloyd Wright, we have two of his houses in town and one of them was recently on the market.
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08-21-2019 , 06:35 PM
Looking to get a new lawn. Any recommendations for what grass to go with?

We live in Southern California and have a dog

Anyone use marathon 2?
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08-21-2019 , 07:03 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by rigs26
Looking to get a new lawn. Any recommendations for what grass to go with?

We live in Southern California and have a dog

Anyone use marathon 2?
Toledo Windowbox.

Spoiler:
Oh, the kind you mow. Not the kind you smoke.
Sorry.
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08-22-2019 , 08:54 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by rigs26
Looking to get a new lawn. Any recommendations for what grass to go with?



We live in Southern California and have a dog



Anyone use marathon 2?

Look up the nearest (nice) golf course and email the superintendent. Also a local university should have a agricultural department that will test your soil for $20~ or so and make recommendations based on your location. Grass is one of those things you can go a million different directions on based on climate/location/tree cover/soil type etc.
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08-24-2019 , 11:40 AM
I would rather not go with a thermostat that can be monitored by the electric company and I was wondering what kind of thermostat people would recommend.

We had our AC replaced without replacing the thermostat and ever since it has been a little wonky. It won't hold the new programming. Also, when I set it lower without programming, it runs for awhile and reverts to old programming without cooling to the override temp.
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08-24-2019 , 12:02 PM
I've had 3 Nests and have liked the product. I understand the Ecobee products to be quite good too.

None of them can be monitored by the electrical company without you configuring them specifically to do that. You can run all (afaik) smart thermostats as effectively just a normal programmable thermostat, if you want.
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08-24-2019 , 01:37 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc T River
I would rather not go with a thermostat that can be monitored by the electric company and I was wondering what kind of thermostat people would recommend.

We had our AC replaced without replacing the thermostat and ever since it has been a little wonky. It won't hold the new programming. Also, when I set it lower without programming, it runs for awhile and reverts to old programming without cooling to the override temp.
You are concerned that the people who know how much electricity you use because they already bill for it will know how much electricity you use?
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08-24-2019 , 01:49 PM
Neither here nor there to this discussion, but some of the earliest installations of air conditioning in the Los Angeles area required a separate service and you'll see houses with two sets of parallel lines from the poles. The set for A/C has a disconnect at the pole so that the utility could go shut everyone's A/C off to avoid brownouts/blackouts during heavy use.
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08-24-2019 , 02:53 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianTheMick2
You are concerned that the people who know how much electricity you use because they already bill for it will know how much electricity you use?
Hadn't thought of it that way, but no.
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08-24-2019 , 02:54 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by microbet
Neither here nor there to this discussion, but some of the earliest installations of air conditioning in the Los Angeles area required a separate service and you'll see houses with two sets of parallel lines from the poles. The set for A/C has a disconnect at the pole so that the utility could go shut everyone's A/C off to avoid brownouts/blackouts during heavy use.
Don't they still need that?
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08-24-2019 , 03:00 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc T River
Hadn't thought of it that way, but no.
Sharing your theory on why this is something that you want would probably keep me from continuing to guess.

Do you keep your house at a temperature that the folk at the electric company would ridicule you for? Do your temperature preferences have such a deep personal meaning that you would only share them with close friends?

Last edited by BrianTheMick2; 08-24-2019 at 03:00 PM. Reason: Meth lab too large for your cooling system, perhaps?
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08-24-2019 , 03:54 PM
Sorry, I was going to type something further but got distracted.

I guess it could be what you said originally as I think a thermostat tied into the electric company let's them intrude into my life even more.

Last edited by Doc T River; 08-24-2019 at 03:56 PM. Reason: And it's not a meth lab. It's a grow house. Wait, what's that knocking? I WAS KIDDING!
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