By my math, I'm currently at 5/24 exactly until late December. Should I wait it out or just fire off an application and cross my fingers?

so the AF isn't waived the first year on the CSR like a typical card?

Find out what bureau chase pulls in your state, check that credit report and see exactly how many accounts it shows.

Up to you if you want take an inquire and risk denial. Do you have a chase branch to check preapprovals?

No. FYI 'typical' cards don't always waive the AF the first year. Prestige cards rarely do - see Amex Platinum and Citi Prestige.

To add to this, here's a list from my spreadsheet of cards I've applied for or held that had an annual fee (Fee first year / fee subsequent year)

$0 $89
$0 $85
$0 $75
$95 $95
$0 $49
$89 $89
$75 $75
$0 $95
$75 $75
$0 $95
$0 $95
$99 $99
$450 $450
$0 $95
$0 $95
$0 $175
$0 $95
$0 $65
$0 $95
$450 $450
$95 $95
$0 $85
$0 $95
$0 $95
$0 $450
$95 $95
$79 $79
$79 $79
$0 $85
$99 $99
$0 $49

so is the fee paid up front then? never had a card that I had to pay a fee on so am unsure how all that works.

It's billed on your first statement

Hi, i'm new to churning and i kinda ****ed up already. Wife and I both have 755 and 790 credit and were 0/24 before the month started.

So earlier this month i signed up for CSP and added my wife as AU. I plan to downgrade this to chase freedom when we're done with the bonus.

A couple days ago I had her sign up for the CSR and added me as AU (haven't gotten the cards yet).

I didn't know AU would count towards the 5/24. Do you think we can remove me as the AU for her card or is it too late? What do you recommend we sign up after the CSRs? My plan is CSR for me, then CSP for her then idk what to do.

Thanks

An AU on CSR costs $75 additional. Call and say you didn't realize that it cost money to add an AU and you'd like to cancel it.

So I have some Chase UR questions...

I currently have 2 Freedoms, an Ink Bold and when the mail comes, the new CSR (14/24, but I was preapproved in branch!). In the past, I have always transferred all my UR points to the Ink card and sold for 1.5x. I have also redeemed for travel a couple times since they can be worth upwards of 2x or more. So is selling still an option with Chase UR, and if so, what are the risks? Also, are the Chase UR points worth more through CSR than with the Ink Bold? Thirdly, if I book something through my new CSR's UR, does it have the same protections as me simply purchasing the flight, hotel, etc. directly as a purchase on that card? I'm mainly thinking in terms of Trip Cancellation/Trip Interruption Insurance, baggage loss, etc. Any thoughts on these questions would be appreciated.

Got an email from Chase saying UR point redemptions at Amazon are going from 100/$1 to 125/$1, a minor annoyance but oh well.

OMG, I always though the old Blue Cash was only 5% on groceries and gas and since the grocers around me all went to cash only and the gas stations suck, I never bothered with it. I was able to find a link that seems to work for it, any reason I shouldn't apply for it? (I have 4 CC and 1 Charge with Amex right now...) I'm pretty sure if you get denied for maxing out their cards then Amex doesn't do a hard pull.

I'm sure I'd have to take it easy or else I'd get a FR/shutdown.

Yeah, I thought it was a little silly considering you can get straight cash at 100/$1 and then purchase things from Amazon with a CC and get a % back, but some people prefer going straight to Amazon.

Chase doesn't seem to typically make quick or rash moves, so I'm sure they have the data and reasoning for why they did this.

In terms of your credit score, the more available credit, the better. If you're worried about self control or the like, that's understandable, but in general it is better to build up your credit lines when you don't need them so that your utilization won't have as much impact in case you do need to lean on them.

Chase Slate has an Intro transfer offer with no transfer fee and 15 months at 0%. They've had this for a long time, and assuming you can get approved, I've heard it recommended by lots of people.

It's a great deal if you can pay the amount down over the next 15 months. However, you need to really focus and make sure you pay it down and not just treat it as more credit to spend with. The guys over at myfico forums can help you out, and you can definitely find some better BT transfer offers than 3% IMO.

Just called Chase, they won't expedite the shipping of my CSR card because too many people are ordering them

@banana: I was approved for mine on 8/23, and UPS alert shows it will be here tomorrow, 8/29. So timewise you shouldn't have to wait too long.

@Os: yeah the 5% categories on OBC are pretty legit, but remember its .5% and 1% for the first $6500 of the year, and 5% up to the next 50K you need to look at your personal spend through and run a spreadsheet to see what your true % is. Let's say you spend $3k/mo in drug stores with a $4 per $500 fee. Just factoring in the 1%/5%, best case is you're earning ~4.2%. When you subtract your fees, you're earning 3.5%. Still great, but not game breaking.

There's another wrinkle in when it switches from 1% to 5% is not when you pass $6500 to $6501, it's the first statement where you're past the $6501 threshold. So if you spend $6400 in the first two months, then $5k the 3rd month, reports are that the 3rd month is all at 1% rather than $100 at 1% and $4.9k at 5%.

Personally I don't read spend too much time thinking about it - I just know that 5% at drugstores lets me pay my rent at a discount.

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Been m

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5% rotating category cards are decent (discover IT and Freedom)

BoA Cash rewards ($100 credit after $500 spend) - 1% cash back on every purchase, 2% at grocery stores and now at wholesale clubs and 3% on gas for the first $2,500 in combined grocery/wholesale club/gas purchases each quarter

those are some options, there are others that may be better. none of the above carry an annual fee

don't get the boa cash rewards with just 100 back

get the mlb or mlb teams version with 200 credit after 500 spend

and get as many as you can

Got the CSR on Friday in branch (was right at 5/24). Took less than 15 minutes. This with the 4 BOA MLB cards and I'm looking at $1800 back minimum. Will most likely spend majority of UR on flights/hotels though - my wife and I are thinking of going back to Hawaii next year!

Was mad I didn't get instantly approved for the Reserve but I logged into my Chase Freedom account today and the card was sitting there in it!

Pretty excited seems like an awesome deal.

Thinking of getting a car in the next 6 months, have a current score of 775. Should I hold off on adding cards/extending existing limits at all?

doesn't sound like a bad idea. However, if you were to open one asap or increase a credit line asap and managed those credit lines well (pay them off) i believe your credit score would be even better in 6 months than it is now.


I have a question/concern: It appears my wife's Hyatt card was awarded a free night (card anniversary). However, the annual fee hasn't posted quite yet but i believe it is supposed to on 09/01/16. Is it standard for the award night to post before the AF? Also, I think i am going to cancel the Hyatt cc. Would it be possible to take advantage of the award night if i do it very soon, cancel the card, and then the AF would be refunded? i know usually a cc user has 2 - 3 months to cancel and the AF will be reversed. thoughts?

If you open a new account it is going to do three things: it's going to lower your AAoA and you're going to get a hard inquiry, which is going to hurt a tiny bit, but then it is going to increase your total amount of credit, so it will lower your utilization if you have any debt.

How long have you had open credit cards for? Have you ever had any other credit loans, eg Auto or Mortgage?

I had only had credit cards and I continued to apply for multiple cards up until about 3 months before I applied for an auto loan. Even though my AAoA was under 2 years and I had opened ~10 new CCs in the previous 12 months, I qualified for the lowest interest rate at my CU <2% and used that as part of my dealings at the dealership.

It also depends on your income and other factors. If you're putting down a sizeable down payment and have good income for what you're looking to buy, you shouldn't have any issues getting a low interest rate. I highly recommend getting pre-approved at a credit union or your bank before going to a dealership if you're planning on buying from one.

Yeah, that was the plan along with waiting for their 0.0apr promos once they try to clear their inventory.