My favorite thing about the hostel at Baikal was that it had a
banya, which is the Russian version of a sauna. I've been to saunas in other countries like Hungary, Finland, and Japan, and enjoyed them, so I was happy to have the chance to try the Russian version.
The sauna had to be reserved in advance so they could heat things up and get the water ready. One of the other people in the hostel was a Japanese who wanted to give it a try, so we were able to split the cost between us which was nice.
The banya was a standalone building that looked like a miniature version of the hostel from the outside. The inside had three areas. The first was just a foyer area. The second was this:
which is kind of a recovery / resting area. The stuff that you see in there:
are two mugs for drinking water, a faucet to fill the big blue bucket with cold water, a ladle, and a smaller brass bucket. What you are supposed to do is come out of the sauna every so often, then dip either the ladle or the brass bucket in the big blue bucket to fill it with cold water, then pour the cold water over yourself. The first time you do this, you will let out a blood curdling scream, as the cold water is very cold, and you are very hot. This is supposed to be therapeutic. I can think of other adjectives to describe it.
There is also a little basket full of hot water and a bundle of small branches:
which you are supposed to hit yourself and others with, to improve circulation. I was skeptical of this but gave it a try. I remained skeptical.
Here's a view into the steam area:
it was tough to get a decent photo and I decided not to bring my phone inside because it was super hot and steamy in there. It's basically a few tiers of wooden benches built all along the walls. You can fit about a dozen people in there. There's also a big stove looking thing heating up the water and creating the steam. It gets very hot in there, as you'd imagine.
So what you do is go into the building, undress and get a towel to wrap around yourself, then alternate going between the steam area and the recovery/water area. I was able to take about 15 minutes of the steam area each time before needing to get out. Dousing yourself with cold water the first time is more shocking than anything else, but after you do it a few times it's refreshing. Better than jumping into an ice filled river in the middle of February which is what we did to cool off from the sauna in Finland.
After a couple of hours in the sauna, I slept very, very well that night.
The next morning it was time to head back to Irkutsk to catch the train to Mongolia that evening. While I had been lucky to have someone give me a lift to Baikal, I needed to use public transportation to get back to Irkutsk. The primary form of this is via minibuses that run between the two. These buses stop down near the shore, put up a little sign in the window stating their destination, and then depart whenever the driver feels like leaving. Here's the one I found:
That little yellow sign says Irkutsk on it.
Lucky for me, I was the second person on, so I was able to secure a decent seat in the back with my backpacks. The bus loaded up about 20 minutes later with 11 people counting the driver, and off we headed back to Irkutsk. There were 3 Germans and everyone else was Russian. One thing I hadn't checked into was where in Irkutsk we'd be getting dropped off, but I knew the city is fairly small, so I'd figure it out when we arrived.