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08-13-2013 , 10:51 PM
Had a hiccup trying to purchase the ebook through D&B due to paypal and was told it would take 6-8 business days to receive my ebook.

I emailed D&B about it. They responded super fast, on a sunday no less, and I had the ebook in no time.

So if you're thinking about buying this book, know that D&B will do right by you.
Quote
08-15-2013 , 02:41 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by TakezoKensei
Cool thanks, here is the hand:

PokerStars Zoom No-Limit Hold'em, $2.00 BB (6 handed) - PokerStars Converter Tool from http://www.flopturnriver.com

Button ($107.70)
SB ($201)
Hero (BB) ($200)
UTG ($235.99)
MP ($239.24)
CO ($241.26)

Preflop: Hero is BB with 9, Q
3 folds, Button bets $5, 1 fold, Hero calls $3

Flop: ($11) Q, 3, 10 (2 players)
Hero checks, Button checks

Turn: ($11) 7 (2 players)
Hero bets $7, Button calls $7

River: ($25) 9 (2 players)
Hero ??


Here are the ranges that I used for the river distribution:

Hero: 2c2h,2d2h,2d2c,2s2h,2s2c,2s2d,3c3h,3d3h,3d3c,4h3h, 4c3c,4d3d,5h4h,5c4c,5d4d,5s4s,6h4h,6h5h,6c4c,6c5c, 6d4d,6d5d,6s4s,6s5s,7c7h,7s5s,7s6s,7s7h,7s7c,8h6h, 8c6c,8d6d,8s6s,8s7s,9h8h,9h8c,9h8d,9h8s,9c8h,9c8c, 9c8d,9c8s,9s7s,9s8h,9s8c,9s8d,9s8s,Th7h,Tc7c,Ts7s, Ts8s,Ts9s,Jh8h,Jh9h,Jh9c,Jh9s,Jc8c,Jc9h,Jc9c,Jc9s, Jd8d,Jd9h,Jd9c,Jd9s,Js7s,Js8s,Js9h,Js9c,Js9s,Qh5h, Qh6h,Qh7h,Qh8h,Qh9h,Qh9c,Qh9s,QhTc,QhTs,QhJc,QhJd, QhJs,Qc5c,Qc6c,Qc7c,Qc8c,Qc9h,Qc9c,Qc9s,QcTh,QcTs, QcJh,QcJd,QcJs,Qd5d,Qd6d,Qd8d,Qd9h,Qd9c,Qd9s,QdTh, QdTc,QdTs,QdJh,QdJc,QdJs,Kh2h,Kh3h,Kh4h,Kh5h,Kh6h, Kh8h,Kh9h,Kh9c,Kh9s,KhTc,KhTs,KhJc,KhJd,KhJs,Kc2c, Kc3c,Kc4c,Kc5c,Kc6c,Kc8c,Kc9h,Kc9c,Kc9s,KcTh,KcTs, KcJh,KcJd,KcJs,Kd2d,Kd3d,Kd4d,Kd5d,Kd6d,Kd8d,Kd9h, Kd9c,Kd9s,KdTh,KdTc,KdTs,KdJh,KdJc,KdJs,Ks2s,Ks4s, Ks5s,Ks6s,Ks7s,Ks8s,Ks9h,Ks9c,Ks9s,KsTh,KsTc,KsJh, KsJc,KsJd,Ah2h,Ah3h,Ah4h,Ah5h,Ah5c,Ah5d,Ah5s,Ah6h, Ah6c,Ah6d,Ah6s,Ah8h,Ah8c,Ah8d,Ah8s,Ah9c,Ah9s,AhTc, AhTs,Ac2c,Ac3c,Ac4c,Ac5h,Ac5c,Ac5d,Ac5s,Ac6h,Ac6c, Ac6d,Ac6s,Ac8h,Ac8c,Ac8d,Ac8s,Ac9h,Ac9s,AcTh,AcTs, Ad2d,Ad3d,Ad4d,Ad5h,Ad5c,Ad5d,Ad5s,Ad6h,Ad6c,Ad6d, Ad6s,Ad8h,Ad8c,Ad8d,Ad8s,Ad9h,Ad9c,Ad9s,AdTh,AdTc, AdTs,As2s,As4s,As5h,As5c,As5d,As5s,As6h,As6c,As6d, As6s,As7s,As8h,As8c,As8d,As8s,As9h,As9c,AsTh,AsTc

Villain: 3d2d,4d2d,4d3d,5d3d,5d4d,6d4d,6d5d,7h5h,7h5c,7h5d, 7h5s,7h6h,7h6c,7h6d,7h6s,7c5h,7c5c,7c5d,7c5s,7c6h, 7c6c,7c6d,7c6s,7c7h,7s5h,7s5c,7s5d,7s6h,7s6c,7s6d, 7s7h,7s7c,8h7h,8h7c,8h7s,8c7h,8c7c,8c7s,8c8h,8d5d, 8d6d,8d7h,8d7c,8d7s,8d8h,8d8c,8s7h,8s7c,8s8h,8s8c, 8s8d,9h7h,9h7c,9h7s,9c7h,9c7c,9c7s,9c9h,9s7h,9s7c, 9s9h,9s9c,Th5h,Th6h,Th7h,Th8h,Th8c,Th8d,Th8s,Th9h, Th9c,Th9s,Tc5c,Tc6c,Tc7c,Tc8h,Tc8c,Tc8d,Tc8s,Tc9h, Tc9c,Tc9s,Ts8h,Ts8c,Ts8d,Ts9h,Ts9c,Jh7h,JhTh,JhTc, JhTs,Jc7c,JcTh,JcTc,JcTs,JcJh,Jd2d,Jd3d,Jd4d,Jd5d, Jd6d,JdTh,JdTc,JdTs,JdJh,JdJc,JsTh,JsTc,JsJh,JsJc, JsJd,Qh2h,Qh4h,Qh5h,Qh6h,Qh7h,Qh7c,Qh7s,Qh8h,Qh8c, Qh8d,Qh8s,Qh9h,Qh9c,Qh9s,QhJh,QhJc,QhJd,QhJs,Qc2c, Qc4c,Qc5c,Qc6c,Qc7h,Qc7c,Qc7s,Qc8h,Qc8c,Qc8d,Qc8s, Qc9h,Qc9c,Qc9s,QcJh,QcJc,QcJd,QcJs,Qd2d,Qd4d,Qd5d, Qd6d,Qd7h,Qd7c,Qd7s,Qd8h,Qd8c,Qd8d,Qd8s,Qd9h,Qd9c, Qd9s,QdJh,QdJc,QdJd,QdJs,Kh7h,Kh7c,Kh7s,KhTh,KhTc, KhTs,Kc7h,Kc7c,Kc7s,KcTh,KcTc,KcTs,Kd2d,Kd3d,Kd4d, Kd5d,Kd6d,Kd7h,Kd7c,Kd7s,Kd8d,KdTh,KdTc,KdTs,Ks7h, Ks7c,KsTh,KsTc,AhTh,AhTc,AhTs,AcTh,AcTc,AcTs,Ad2d, Ad3d,Ad4d,Ad5d,Ad6d,Ad8d,AdTh,AdTc,AdTs,As7h,As7c, AsTh,AsTc,AsQh,AsQc,AsQd,AsAh,AsAc,AsAd

Sorry for spelling out the ranges like this, but there is no way around it in this example. The ranges are just a pretty rough estimate and very pessimistic for hero. Checking back ranges on flops like that are very villain dependent, but normally I do not think they check back most A- and K-high backdoor flushdraws like I let him here. Nevertheless, it is just an example and a solution will certainly be instructive.

Btw, I did some quick CREV calculations and the EV between having a leading range and checking everything seemed close. I did not give villain the opportunity to make large overbets though...
Hey, so I set up a reasonable-looking game tree and solved it with your starting ranges. Annoyingly, I don't know of any great way to communicate the whole solutions. I've not heard from anyone who found the solutions I posted to the river examples very useful . Maybe I just should polish up and make public my own visualization utility. For now, anyway, here's this:

Tree:
(larger-than-all-in bets (e.g. 999) are trimmed down to all-in)
(12.5 BB in the pot, and 47.85 BB behind at the beginning of the river)

- RIVER 1 Qs3sTd7d9d
-- BB bet 999
--- SB fold
--- SB call
-- BB bet 3
--- SB bet 15
---- BB fold
---- BB call
---- BB bet 999
----- SB fold
----- SB call
--- SB bet 999
---- BB fold
---- BB call
--- SB fold
--- SB call
-- BB check
--- SB check
--- SB bet 999
---- BB fold
---- BB call
--- SB bet 8
---- BB fold
---- BB call
---- BB bet 999
----- SB call
----- SB fold
-- BB bet 7
--- SB bet 20
---- BB fold
---- BB call
---- BB bet 999
----- SB fold
----- SB call
--- SB bet 999
---- BB fold
---- BB call
--- SB fold
--- SB call
-- BB bet 12
--- SB bet 999
---- BB fold
---- BB call
--- SB fold
--- SB call

Ranges:
http://imageshack.us/a/img35/7470/72l2.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img153/6903/zi1t.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img17/922/3b7v.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img13/8977/cc89.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img4/5646/agc9.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img547/1605/3r2n.png
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08-15-2013 , 03:22 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by SemPeR
Random thought:
Capped high vs capped low --- i think the way most people understand capped low, is what EHUNL explains as "bounded below"
I'm not sure if other people use the words differently, but if it's not clear -- I call a range "capped" when it doesn't contain some of the strongest hands, "capped high" when it is only missing a few of the very strongest hands, and "capped low" when the strongest hand it contains is actually pretty weak. And I use "bounded below" (altho it comes up a lot less frequently) to describe sort of the opposite situation where a range can't include some amount of the weakest hands.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SemPeR
Some Errata:

Pg 298
"Making the 12bb betting option available to the BB does not, however, make an especially large difference in value of the game for the SB -- about half a BB per 100 hands."
-Instance of BB is probably SB...because using BB would imply leading...
You are correct, thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SemPeR
__________________
Pg200:
sentence that starts with "on a board like this one, however..." is worded strangely.
Probably some punctuation between the words "off" and "betting"
Actually, I didn't mean the word "betting" there to describe "SBs". I meant the board is not "strong enough for either player to scare the other off betting", i.e. it's not strong enough that either player will be scared away from betting. Probably too colloquial.. not amazing English, I agree.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SemPeR
_______________
Pg 322:
diagram on 322 is mislabelled in the description. Ad should read 3h.
You are correct, thanks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SemPeR
Question 1:


In the discussion on blockbetting, you mention that blockbetting hands are often trying to decide between
c/f, block-fold
c/c, block-call, bet/fold

I assume a full solution (with appropriately non-polar distributions) would include hand segments that represent all of these things, but I can't see an order anywhere in the book.

Pg 257 has a solution structure for the bet-or-check game.
Pg 290 illustrates the structures SB holds when facing blocks, checks, and bets.

I'm trying to construct good blocking ranges in HUNL and realized there wasn't a clear "right" way to order the segments. Is there a clear order for these cutoff hands in a GTO strategy that includes all possible actions?
No, unfortunately there isn't really a simple solution for this. I talked about it a bit in the section on bet sizing (p256), but when you use multiple betsizings in a spot, the actual solutions don't end up breaking down into small number of well-defined action regions. Generally, you're going to want to bet bigger with your better hands, but if your smaller-betting ranges are completely capped, then it can be exploitable, and Villain's adjustment can motivate you to start betting smaller w/ some strong value hands as well...

As far as where block bets fit into an equilibrium type strategy, though, maybe you'll find this post helpful:

http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/sh...1&postcount=86

Quote:
Originally Posted by SemPeR
Question 2:

I looked at the solution to the SB bet or check game here. I understand everything but how you represented the equity distributions. It looks like a long vector of equities.

How do I reproduce something like this, for custom distributions?

What I'd like to do is combine what was done in the "SB bet-or-check game" (with asymmetric distributions), and the solution to the "big river game" (with symmetric distributions), to start solving real spots.

Thank you,
Semp
I showed the Mathematica stuff primarily for instructive purposes. It can get tedious and error-prone pretty quickly for more complicated situations. When it comes to doing practical work on real spots, I think a more general equilibrium-finding algorithm is the way to go. Fictitious play is really quite simple to implement.

That said, the equity distribution function there is represented as a list of ordered pairs (hand, equity). Both hand and equity range between 0 and 1, from weakest to strongest. Mathematica's Interpolation[] function turns the list of points into something that can be treated like a function.

I don't know of any publicly available software that can make that list of points. The EDVis utility I released can plot equity distributions, but it doesn't have an 'Export' button or anything..
Quote
08-15-2013 , 04:30 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle7
Two questions for Will. Both about Hand distributions. One suggestion for Will, and one for everyone else.

Question 1) Page 135, hand distributions, and your question about when each 3betting range might be appropriate. I would like your input on the nuances and a few "whys" which I am unsure about.
Specifically, choosing a) over b) over c) over e) - and what makes us adjust in these ways. (Especially b over e) )

a) A wide 3betting range, containing broadways only. Villain is opening 100% and we 3bet that because we expect him to flat a lot of our 3bets. We want value.

b) We 3bet a wider range, but only half the time (netting about the same frequency as a).
This one puzzles me. Villain is opening again 100% (we're 3betting wide again). His folding frequency, or postflop plays in SRPs, or 4betting frequency are factors which I cannot seem to place anywhere in this example. Getting tricky?

c) A standard polarized range. This makes sense from a GTO point of view. Our value hands are balanced with our bluffs making it tough for villain to call correctly or fold correctly without either paying us off or folding a better hand. If he 4bets a condensed range, we can 5bet what's good and fold the rest (and 5betbluff occasionally, again keeping a balanced range).
This one I think is best out of all the listed ranges specifically if Villain likes to 4bet a lot (and calls 3bets sometimes).

d) Our villain is opening very wide, 100% or close to that. He seems to be folding every time we 3bet him. We don't want to waste premiums to see him fold; we think we'll get more money if we flat them.

e) We 3bet the same range as in a), but without the premiums.
Things that might make me want to do that -
Villain is opening 100% (our 3betting range is quite wide); he is calling a lot and he is not 4betting much. So we like to get value.
He also tends to get crazy in SRPs, trying to barrell us off of anything. That would be a reason to include premiums in our preflop calling range.

Am I on the right track? What would you add, or modify in the reasonings above? And what's with that b) thing?
Do I ask when each one might be a good 3-betting strat? Anyway, if so, I don't think there's necessarily one right answer for each of these, but your analysis looks good.

As you say, (c) is a standard polarized range, (a) is a standard adjustment versus someone who's too loose, (d) looks like a good adjustment versus someone who's too tight vs 3bets. The range in (d) looks to be something like 70% of all hands, so it might be a bit overkill unless Villain is very slow to adjust .

(e) might be a good approach versus an aggro player in at very short stack depths. (b) doesn't seem like a great 3-betting distribution vs anyone I can think of right now...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle7
Question 2) Page 137, percentiles of an ATC range on 4 different flops. I ran these in Flopzilla and some of them did not match the places where you placed them.
Flop 222 - J8 is perc. 56
Flop J53 - K9 is perc 56 (A high would be perc 50 there)
Flop KJ7 - deuces are top40% (again, A high would be perc 50)

Where does the discrepancy come from?
Well, you see, that's a table of something like the 98th, 94th, 89th, 72nd, 44th, and 16th percentile hands, b/c I forgot about card removal effects . Btw, Xth percentile means the hand is ahead of X% of hands, not behind X% of hands. So, e.g., I think K9 should be 44th, not 56th, percentile on the J53r. Anyway, nice catch, and here's an update:

board: 2s2h2d
98 7h2c
95 KdKs
90 AcKh
75 Ad3c
50 Qd3s
25 9d7c

board: KdJs7h
98 Kc7d
95 KhQd
90 Kc6d
75 ThTc
50 Ac6d
25 9c6s

board: Ts9s8s
98 Qs2s
95 7s6c
90 Js8h
75 Qs6h
50 Qh4s
25 AhKd

board: Js5h3d
98 Jc3s
95 AcJd
90 Jd6s
75 9c5c
50 As6d
25 7c6s


Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle7
A suggestion - is there a place where all the blurbs (as you called them) are answered? I have never seen a workbook without solutions available in some way.
Do you know of gruops of players working on these things?
Do you have the solutions written up and uploaded somewhere?
I have to bug you here about these if they aren't anywhere...
There isn't any place which has solutions for all the questions, as far as I know. I mean, a lot of the questions are mostly meant to be thought-provoking and don't really have right or wrong answers. Answers to questions that have a simple numerical answer are usually given in the text.

I don't know of any study groups, but a number of people have asked me about it, so hopefully you guys can find each other. For now, if there are any generalish theory questions that might be interesting to people who aren't working through the book, a post in Poker Theory or something might get more eyes and generate more discussion than this thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle7
To everyone else - if you study poker in order to improve, if you like Tipton's and Janda's work and would like to bounce ideas (like the ones I've typed above about the 3bet ranges) off of some other players, ship me a PM and we can help each other out. I am playing HU cash, small stakes. I am beating those, I want to improve, and I intend to move up.



Eagle
Quote
08-15-2013 , 04:34 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 28renton
Had a hiccup trying to purchase the ebook through D&B due to paypal and was told it would take 6-8 business days to receive my ebook.

I emailed D&B about it. They responded super fast, on a sunday no less, and I had the ebook in no time.

So if you're thinking about buying this book, know that D&B will do right by you.
Nice, I'm glad to hear it. Hope you enjoy the book.
Quote
08-17-2013 , 06:54 AM
Hey Will, the book is great!
I have a one question about your book. You say p.332 "spending some time away from the tables breaking down your range in spots and grouping hands into regions", What do u mean by this? Could u give a example?
Thank you!
Quote
08-17-2013 , 03:36 PM
Hello Will, just started reading the book over the past week. I'm up to chapter 5 and I'm just about following everything so far which is good!

My question is extremely basic but I want to make sure I'm getting everything as I go along rather than just moving on having not understood something. In a lot of the examples where we solve for X (is ev open fold - ev raise fold) discussed in the first few chapters, I have re-read looking for the method to solve for X. I have done all the calcs to check they work etc, and done a few of my own, but I only get there by trial and error.

Other than that I have followed everything fine except p.127. I don't really have much of a question because I'm not really sure at all what is going on there in terms of the method for solving for the numbers.

Anyway, great book so far and great thread as well, I actually decided to buy this book just from reading through this thread as I found it very eye opening on its own! Cheers.
Quote
08-18-2013 , 07:08 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by yaqh
Do I ask when each one might be a good 3-betting strat? Anyway, if so, I don't think there's necessarily one right answer for each of these, but your analysis looks good.


Well, you see, that's a table of something like the 98th, 94th, 89th, 72nd, 44th, and 16th percentile hands, b/c I forgot about card removal effects . Btw, Xth percentile means the hand is ahead of X% of hands, not behind X% of hands. So, e.g., I think K9 should be 44th, not 56th, percentile on the J53r. Anyway, nice catch, and here's an update:

....
Ah of course, the percentiles work the way you mentioned.

Quote:
Originally Posted by superslamma
Hey Will, the book is great!
I have a one question about your book. You say p.332 "spending some time away from the tables breaking down your range in spots and grouping hands into regions", What do u mean by this? Could u give a example?
Thank you!
I can help you out with that.
In every spot your range is divided into regions.
For example, if you're in position -
the ones you bet(raise) for value, the ones you call (check back) with, the ones you bet (raise) as a bluff, and the ones you check (or fold) with. And they're usually observed (distributed) in that order.
The parts in the () are when you are facing a bet, the other ones are when you're facing a check, obviously.

For instance, you'll bluffbet (or bluffraise) hands that aren't strong enough to checkback (call) with. Hoping to get a better hand to fold (and all his air, too, as that'll have equity as well anyway). You do that with what's called "the top of your folding range".

And those regions are what we begin with. From that you adjust in this or that way.

The idea is that you put more money with your strongest hands, put a bit less with the ones that are strong but not strong enough to put as much money, use the part that comes after that as bluffs, and just muck the rest.

For example, if you're IP on the flop, the board is T82r, and you're facing a check -
your QT is a clear valuebet; A high are often times checked back; K4 is a great bluffbet, and you might want to muck 36o.

If you're facing a bet in that same situation -
AT is a valueraise, 89 is a call, Q2 might be a bluffraise, and again 36 you fold.
In most cases you want your "bluffraises" to be semibluffraises, ie you want them to have equity when called.

Of course, these ranges (or hands in the examples) vary greatly depending in the action you saw, the precise spot, the characteristics of the board, what you think villain is actually doing and how he'll react, etc.; but that's the general framework.


Eagle

Last edited by Eagle7; 08-18-2013 at 07:18 AM.
Quote
08-18-2013 , 07:50 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle7
For example, if you're in position -
the ones you bet(raise) for value, the ones you call (check back) with
This should be "the ones you check back (call) with", obv.
Quote
08-18-2013 , 09:58 AM
Hello yaqh

I'm a french player and I would like to know if a version of your book will be translated in french and when?

Thanks
Quote
08-19-2013 , 06:28 PM
Just got the book today and its great. For anyone who's already read some of it maybe you can help me out with this.

On page 48 when listing Hero's and Villain's ranges for the example, why isn't AJos included at all? I'm confused as it would seem to be in both of their ranges.
Quote
08-22-2013 , 05:33 PM
Hey Will, can you expand a bit on this statement you made in another thread?


Quote:
Originally Posted by yaqh
The issues you're getting at are a problem with people's tricks for trying to approximate gto play, not with gto play itself. The whole "don't let villain auto profit with air" thing is often completely wrong as a way to think about and solve for gto strats.

I'm concerned because I was planing on designing ranges for HU and 6 max based on this concept.

Have you read Janda's book yet?
Quote
08-22-2013 , 09:04 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by superslamma
Hey Will, the book is great!
I have a one question about your book. You say p.332 "spending some time away from the tables breaking down your range in spots and grouping hands into regions", What do u mean by this? Could u give a example?
Thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle7

I can help you out with that.
In every spot your range is divided into regions.
For example, if you're in position -
the ones you bet(raise) for value, the ones you call (check back) with, the ones you bet (raise) as a bluff, and the ones you check (or fold) with. And they're usually observed (distributed) in that order.
The parts in the () are when you are facing a bet, the other ones are when you're facing a check, obviously.

For instance, you'll bluffbet (or bluffraise) hands that aren't strong enough to checkback (call) with. Hoping to get a better hand to fold (and all his air, too, as that'll have equity as well anyway). You do that with what's called "the top of your folding range".

And those regions are what we begin with. From that you adjust in this or that way.

The idea is that you put more money with your strongest hands, put a bit less with the ones that are strong but not strong enough to put as much money, use the part that comes after that as bluffs, and just muck the rest.

For example, if you're IP on the flop, the board is T82r, and you're facing a check -
your QT is a clear valuebet; A high are often times checked back; K4 is a great bluffbet, and you might want to muck 36o.

If you're facing a bet in that same situation -
AT is a valueraise, 89 is a call, Q2 might be a bluffraise, and again 36 you fold.
In most cases you want your "bluffraises" to be semibluffraises, ie you want them to have equity when called.

Of course, these ranges (or hands in the examples) vary greatly depending in the action you saw, the precise spot, the characteristics of the board, what you think villain is actually doing and how he'll react, etc.; but that's the general framework.


Eagle
Yup, I think Eagle pretty much nailed it (thanks Eagle!). The big idea is just to spend some time breaking down your strategy in various spots. If you do it away from the table, you can take the time to look at the big picture, get practice thinking about the entire ranges with which you take various actions, see what your frequencies actually turn out to be when you play all your hands the way you usually play them, etc, and it can be very educational. Of course, the section that that quote comes from gives a lot of suggestions for splitting your ranges in various river spots.
Quote
08-22-2013 , 09:07 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by drsmooth
Hello Will, just started reading the book over the past week. I'm up to chapter 5 and I'm just about following everything so far which is good!

My question is extremely basic but I want to make sure I'm getting everything as I go along rather than just moving on having not understood something. In a lot of the examples where we solve for X (is ev open fold - ev raise fold) discussed in the first few chapters, I have re-read looking for the method to solve for X. I have done all the calcs to check they work etc, and done a few of my own, but I only get there by trial and error.

Other than that I have followed everything fine except p.127. I don't really have much of a question because I'm not really sure at all what is going on there in terms of the method for solving for the numbers.

Anyway, great book so far and great thread as well, I actually decided to buy this book just from reading through this thread as I found it very eye opening on its own! Cheers.
Hey drsmooth,

I'm not quite sure what you're asking -- is it how to solve algebraic equations? It's true that I usually just write down equations and then skip to the answers without showing all the intermediate algebra, since it's mechanical and can take up a lot of space. However, if you're not quite sure how to solve those equations by hand, I'd recommend giving it a bit of practice, since it's a very useful skill to have. Actually, someone asked a very similar question previously, so please see my response here:

http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/18...-book-1345573/

And if I've misunderstood your question, please let me know . Glad you're enjoying the book otherwise!

Cheers,

Will
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08-22-2013 , 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ced82
Hello yaqh

I'm a french player and I would like to know if a version of your book will be translated in french and when?

Thanks
Hi ced,

Sorry but I'm not aware of any plans for a French translation.
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08-22-2013 , 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by christapho
Just got the book today and its great. For anyone who's already read some of it maybe you can help me out with this.

On page 48 when listing Hero's and Villain's ranges for the example, why isn't AJos included at all? I'm confused as it would seem to be in both of their ranges.
Glad you're enjoying the book, Christapho.

You're asking about ranges at the beginning of river play after SB raised pre and was called, and then BB c/r SB's flop cbet and barrelled turn and SB flatted. The board ran out J63ssJo2o or so.

I removed AJo from BB's range, since it likely would have been 3-bet preflop, and I discounted it from the SB's range, since he would play good jacks faster on the flop or turn a lot of the time.

Generally, when building ranges to analyze spots, it's more important to include the types of hands each player could hold with the right frequency than it is to include every single hand he could show up there with. And, indeed, if we included 100% of every hand the players could show up with in the ranges, we'd get the relative frequencies of the various parts of the ranges wrong, because the players don't play all their hands that way every time they're dealt it (as far as we know). So a common approach (and what I did in that example) is to just pick some representative combos. And both players do have some good jacks in range in the example (including AJs), which can stand in pretty well for times they get there with AJo, if that does ever happen.

A more careful analysis might give each player, say, 10% of each individual AJo combo and assign higher (but < 100%) fractions of a lot of the other hands in the range, etc. But there's a lot of hand combos, and if you think some of the range listings in the book are long now, imagine having to show a different frequency for every combo...
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08-22-2013 , 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by wateronrock
Hey Will, can you expand a bit on this statement you made in another thread?


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The issues you're getting at are a problem with people's tricks for trying to approximate gto play, not with gto play itself. The whole "don't let villain auto profit with air" thing is often completely wrong as a way to think about and solve for gto strats.

I'm concerned because I was planing on designing ranges for HU and 6 max based on this concept.

Have you read Janda's book yet?
Sure, well I think I expanded on it a bit in that same thread:

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Originally Posted by yaqh
I made a video about a lot of these issues once, but really quick, the argument basically goes like this --

If we always call, villain can exploit us by not bluffing and if we always fold, villain can exploit us by never bluffing, so to keep him from exploiting us, we need to call just enough so that his EV of bluffing and not bluffing with air are equal.

So then we assume he has some air hands that always lose the pot if they don't bluff and also lose if they bluff and get called, and then we call enough to keep these indiff to bluffing.

First of all, the original indifference argument can break down for a lot of distributions (eg what if villain doesnt even hold any air or not much). Second those ideas about the EVs of bluffing and not bluffing are pretty much always wrong. ATC have like 20perc chance to pair up if they check back and get a couple free cards, bluffs and esp semibluffs can still win a lot if they bluff and get called, etc. And it turns out that these things can have a v big effect on the estimated gto strats. So the naive estimate found by calling to make complete air indiff is usually completely wrong.
A complete answer to the question of what exactly we should do instead isn't short (and will get a lot of discussion and examples in Vol 2), but for now, is the big idea of the criticism clear?

I haven't read Janda's book. Does he rely much on this method?
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08-23-2013 , 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by yaqh
...
Generally, when building ranges to analyze spots, it's more important to include the types of hands each player could hold with the right frequency than it is to include every single hand he could show up there with ...
Do I understand you correctly that this is refering towards a 'binning of comparable hands' & that we focus a bit more upon
how many combo's bin A contains compared towards
the combo's present in bin B

As I discovered by creating ranges out of population tendancies that the impact of these 'bin ratio's' have often more effect upon EV then expected. Meaning, sometimes you have some min required threshold ratio before a bin starts having significant impact.
And such that there is not really a requirement to go on in a 'grey area' of we have include combo's ... a certain amount BUT instead you can go on with including or excluding the combo's completely.

I even had sometimes the feeling that focusing upon getting these bin ratio's as representative as possible for the population tendancies was more important then ensuring
that the sum of all weights (of each hand as it is thrown over different ranges) was 100%
(an example just created for clarification for the last part: not really focussing that 100 - AA 3bS 10% + AA 3bnonai 60% means AA flatting 30%)

Maybe you want to share something or correct me ...
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08-23-2013 , 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by yaqh
If we always call, villain can exploit us by not bluffing and if we always fold, villain can exploit us by never bluffing
A little confused on the bolded statement. Did you mean to say "by betting all bluffs"?
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08-23-2013 , 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Emus
Do I understand you correctly that this is refering towards a 'binning of comparable hands' & that we focus a bit more upon
how many combo's bin A contains compared towards
the combo's present in bin B

As I discovered by creating ranges out of population tendancies that the impact of these 'bin ratio's' have often more effect upon EV then expected. Meaning, sometimes you have some min required threshold ratio before a bin starts having significant impact.
And such that there is not really a requirement to go on in a 'grey area' of we have include combo's ... a certain amount BUT instead you can go on with including or excluding the combo's completely.

I even had sometimes the feeling that focusing upon getting these bin ratio's as representative as possible for the population tendancies was more important then ensuring
that the sum of all weights (of each hand as it is thrown over different ranges) was 100%
(an example just created for clarification for the last part: not really focussing that 100 - AA 3bS 10% + AA 3bnonai 60% means AA flatting 30%)

Maybe you want to share something or correct me ...
Yea, that seems reasonable.

Frequencies summing up to 1 is something that must be true in reality, and it's an easy property to check for and enforce. So I think of it as an easy first step towards coming up with rational ranges, and I usually try to make it hold. I guess it's not entirely necessary to get good results in some calcs though.
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08-23-2013 , 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Googs
A little confused on the bolded statement. Did you mean to say "by betting all bluffs"?
yes
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08-23-2013 , 10:24 AM
Hi Will I have just purchased your ebook and video pack on D&B and I set up a PayPal account as it advised me to. The payment was confirmed but can't see where to download the ebook and videos? It has just taken me back to your book section and asking me to purchase again? Thanks.
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08-23-2013 , 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobba
Hi Will I have just purchased your ebook and video pack on D&B and I set up a PayPal account as it advised me to. The payment was confirmed but can't see where to download the ebook and videos? It has just taken me back to your book section and asking me to purchase again? Thanks.
Hi Bobba, I forwarded your message to my publisher, and he said that sometimes Paypal reacts slowly, and prevents the link from being supplied. Please contact Dan at info@dandbpoker.com, and he'll sort you out right away. Sorry for the inconvenience.
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08-23-2013 , 10:41 AM
Thanks for the swift reply - sent them an email. A massive incentive to purchase the book is that you're around to answer any questions, so great work!
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08-23-2013 , 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobba
Hi Will I have just purchased your ebook and video pack on D&B and I set up a PayPal account as it advised me to. The payment was confirmed but can't see where to download the ebook and videos? It has just taken me back to your book section and asking me to purchase again? Thanks.
Hi Bobba,

I'm the web developer for the D & B Poker website. We've had a few problems lately with people missing the emails and are tryng to work out what's going on, we think perhaps they are ending up in spam folders (they are definitely being sent...).

I've forwarded you a copy of the email containing the download link.

Any further problems let me know either by PM here or reply to the email.

Simon
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