This isn't the right place to post this but I'm unsure where else to ask.

Do we no longer do beginner bankroll monthly threads?
Does anyone still post often from when I used to post?
Where are the active poker sites these days? I had a look at stars and everything above 25nl seems dead, no CAP games, new gambley rake rewards, it's odd.

Hi there, a stupid question here.

I’m arguing with my friend either we should draw or he should win.

The flop: A4K8A

My hand: A5
His hand: A6

Don’t we both have AAAK8?

Yes, you both have AAAK8. Split pot.

Thanks, glad I was right haha

"Hi!
I want to put advertising from our company on your website

Is it possible? if yes - give me know to pm, or to my mail
***************@protonmail.com

If you have a price for advertising, it will be great!

I don't want to spam your portal, that's why i wrote you

Regards!"

newbie, I am a moderator on 2+2. I will forward your request to the appropriate admin. In the meanwhile, please do not "start" your advertising campaign on any of these pages or you risk getting banned.

That email address seems legit

OK, putting this here as not sure where else. Tournament forums seem to be hand analysis and it appears that Live tournament strategy and Online tournament strategy links go to the same forum. I may just be not finding things properly.

Background: Started playing in 2005 and continued until Black Friday. I tried lots of sites over the years and Bodog was where I had my success. I was a SnG and MTT guy and was profitable, playing up to $250 buy-in tournaments. I have started a while back playing small stakes STT on Ignition and have been successful with not enough sample size to really know for sure. Compared to pre-Black Friday, it seems that play is less predictable, but it could also be the lower stakes. I am not a fan of never knowing who your opponents are. At this point, I consider myself a beginner again.

I have almost no live poker experience (played in a couple WPT tournies many years ago and didn't cash in either, went out near bubble in one), but am going to be in Cherokee at the same time as the WSOP circuit. There are only two events available during my time there. My questions:

1. Which tournament should I play? Each is $400 buy-in. The difference is fewer entries and lower prize pool in the one-day event (this is also double stack and $50K guaranteed). The other is a two day event with multiple flights ($500K guaranteed). I am trying to decide the better option as I can only afford one buy-in and I do not plan on doing a reentry either way. I am doing this for fun and experience and I know making money is a long shot. The first one got around 650 runners last year and the other one over 2,000.

2. In a live tournament, are you allowed to take notes or keep a small notebook on your lap? I have very short term memory issues as a result of traumatic brain injury. I forget stupid things like blinds, chip colors, and need to look at my cards a lot as I forget what my cards are. It sucks, so I want to be able to look at blinds on a piece of paper and I need to be able to remember what chip colors are so I don't look like an idiot. It makes me nervous to think that I will screw up bets and things like that. It may sound stupid, but it almost makes me decide not to play. Online, you don't have to remember anything.

3. Are the Harrington NL tournament books still relevant? I am reading them again and know they are good for the fundamentals. Also, is the Miller, Sklansky, and Malmuth book, Small Stakes Holdem still worth rereading? These two books were gold for me back in the day.

Thanks.

1) Depends on your situation. The EV will probably be similar, but the first one should have less variance (although still huge in either case, it's one tournament after all)
2) I have done in the past. You can always ask the dealer if needed.
3) All books other than the "how to beat the precise game I'm playing right now" type of books that many players here seem to love are relevant. If you can get enough insight to gain enough EV to cover the cost of the book, then it's worth it

Are you playing HE (limit poker) or no-limit HE?

The book Small Stakes HE:Winning Big With Expert Play is still good for 8/16 and below live limit tables....though not a specific tourney book.

Thank you for your response.I am leaning toward the bigger event because, as you say, it is one tournament, may as well go for the gusto. Those books I mentioned are on my shelf and well read and dog-eared years ago. I have started rereading them, especially the Harrington books.

Thanks. I am playing NL, just looked at that book (Winning big with expert play) and see it is about Limit. I recall the fundamentals stuff was excellent, I will reread that one with that in mind.

thanks!
I don't want to spam, that's why I asking here)
I waiting for answer!
In PM will be great!

please look at this statement:

I am inquiring about the math here. So in the math there, our call of the 3bet is being factored into pot odds. should we call, the pot goes to 11.5 bb. it does not directly look at the pot before the decision and do the calculation, it is not, "I'm getting 9.5 to 2 on a call."

Well, let's look at river spot. Let's say the pot is 10bb and villain bets 10bb on the river. There is now 20bb in the pot and we have to call 10bb, getting 2 to 1. We have to be right 1 in 3 times to break exactly even. We are not, however, factoring in our 10bb call. We are not saying there is 10bb out there, plus another 10bb bet by the villain, plus if I call another 10bb the pot will be 30bb and then divide by 10. We are not getting three to 1, we are getting 2 to 1. But this process differs than how the Upswing article stated. The US article factored in our call when calling as if the money was already in there.

I have run into this confusion before and I know I have asked about it. It is not until I read this or see it exemplified as such, that I get confused. Why the differences in math here, what am I missing?


edit: now doing some math I guess I am reaching some conclusions. Basically, for example one I would say (5+3+1+.5) = 9.5 and we have to call 2, so 4.75 to 1. When I break that down to see how much equity we need(4.75/5.75)=82.6%

we are opposite that so we need 17.4% equity just as the article states, my method and his is coming to the same conclusion, it seems. So now, why is that happening when we are setting up our equations differently, that is what we are doing right?

yes, yes, yes, different equations which are inverses(eh?) reaching the same conclusion. Now the wheels are turning a bit. I think sometimes I mix and match the way they get worked out and then get confused, I don't know. basically, I calculate my opponent's equity and then know I need the opposite. But now the equation in the screenshot makes sense. I probably didn't make a lot of sense there using "opponent's equity" and some other language but I get it, kind of

Now it's time to optimize the lines

The calculation is always

won x P - lost x (1-P) = 0

You are winning the pot, you are losing your call

pot is 3+5+0.5+1 = 9.5
call is 2

9.5P - 2 (1-P) = 0
9.5P + 2P = 2
11.5P = 2
P = 2/11.5
P = 0.17391...

The part about always having this much equity therefore we can always call is complete rubbish though because you have to realise your equity which you don't do unless you're closing the action completely.

As an aside, snipping tool is your friend

Hello, I always see people.posting there graphs and there red line is always (losing) going down and there blue line is always (winning) going up.

What would it indicate if these line were switched? red going up and blue going down?

Read this article to get an in depth explanation:

http://www.thepokerbank.com/articles/software/red-line/

Hi this is for if the red line is negative. I'm asking what it can mean of the red line is positive and the blue line is negative?

you win without showdown and you lose at showdown.

Bet too much with a weak hand? CBet too much and players call you down extremely light because you have a high % of bluffs.

Hi everyone, what is SPR? And how does SPR work in a tournament?

Thank you.

This is in the FAQ, and it works the same in a donkament as in a cash game mostly

Question about micro stakes, i play somewhat consistent and understand ranges, pot odds, opponent patterns, etc. So im able to be a break even/slightly winning player because of this.

Now the problem is variance (or maybe bad luck), i buyin at 2nl and then grind up to 3 or 4 and then lose it back on an all-in and have to restart. This is the eternal cycle im stuck in... and worse, sometimes i lose the whole buyin and go to 0.

Deep stack poker is a "different" animal. Search around here for advise on playing deep.

Quick tip: Top pair hands devalue quickly and drawing hands like Asmall suited, small pairs and suited connectors rise in value.

Or, once you've got a stack you're not comfortable in playing, leave the table