room dependent, but why would you show the nuts ever with money left to act (rake will be capped already at this stage obv)

Room dependent. Thanks. I'll ask next time I'm there.
He had KJ. The Turn or the River (can't remember which) was the 10 and we chopped EP's $50.
It occurred to me afterwards that if I had shown my cards I may have (probably would have) avoided the chop and won $100 rather than $25. It was apparent that he had caught a piece of the flop, but he didn't seem to be in love with calling me.
Maybe I'm being results oriented here though. Not sure what the true odds of the chop (or him beating me with a boat when he has a set) are whenever he has a piece of this flop?
Thanks again.

edit: My math is probably wrong but it seems to me he is about 37% to hit a boat or quads whenever he has the set (which is what I did put him on, second pair surprised me a bit here). So by showing my cards I'm risking missing out on the $40 he has behind for the chance to win the $75 extra. Must be a close call?

Maybe not a dumb question, but didn't feel like making a thread.

I started playing in November at 2nl on stars, was basically breakeven for 65kish hands... up at bit with deposit bonus and rakeback. After RB got cut I moved to 888...Well didn't WD on stars. I only deposited ~$50 total there... not a big amount or anything.

2nl (or 1nl as 50bb cap) on 888 was ridic soft. Beating it for 12bbEV over 15k hands.... routinely have 300-400bb winning sessions over 1k hands. 6 tabling. I turned $30 deposit into $75 in 3 weeks.

Last 2 nights I decided to take shots at 5nl with $75. Looking at the tables, I'm convinced I can beat them as they look fairly soft though regs seem better. However after like 1k hands over 2 nights I'm down 6BI and BR back to $45.

However, I wasn't running bad or not good enough to beat the pool. I was just playing poorly. Making bad decisions, and lots of mental errors I made when I was starting and thought I was past. Like... I was making calls and chasing when I knew in my gut I was behind, and everything indicated V had it, and I would call, and... big surprise, lose. I thought I was past this, but evidently not. Not sure why I was kinda playing with scared money at 5nl, but frustrating that I played so poorly. Had a couple coolers but 80% was poor mental game and play.

Going to move back down to 1nl and grind back up and take another shot. Don't know if anyone has any tips for why these mental problems resurfaced now? The money isn't a big amount, and plus I only lost winnings. Not really even tilt... just like making bad calls cause I wanted to believe I was ahead.

I am planning on reading TMGOP... should have by now but amazon package didn't show up, got refunded and don't want to reorder as I'm hoping it'll show up.

I also read TGM, have RIO essential, study groups... so I am working on my game, do feel like fundamentally is getting better.

How do I use the hand history converter? Here is a random hand history that Party Poker gives:

***** Hand History for Game 16316339908 *****
$25 USD fastforward NL Texas Hold'em - Wednesday,August 2, 16:40:53 EDT 2017
Table Bolt 7 ( Real Money )
Seat 1 is the button
Total number of players : 6/6
seat 1: MaseasG ( $25 USD )
seat 2: mylat22 ( $25.88 USD )
seat 3: somalian90 ( $14.46 USD )
seat 4: Fritzchen112 ( $26.84 USD )
seat 5: giggidygoo69 ( $32.17 USD )
seat 6: GDDC4 ( $34.29 USD )
mylat22 posts small blind [$0.10 USD].
somalian90 posts big blind [$0.25 USD].
** Dealing down cards **
Dealt to GDDC4 [ Jd, 9h ]
Fritzchen112 folds
giggidygoo69 folds
GDDC4 raises [ $0.70 USD ]
MaseasG folds
mylat22 folds
somalian90 calls [ $0.45 USD ]
** Dealing Flop ** [ 9d, 8s, Qc ]
somalian90 checks
GDDC4 checks
** Dealing Turn ** [ Td ]
somalian90 checks
GDDC4 bets [ $1.05 USD ]
somalian90 calls [ $1.05 USD ]
** Dealing River ** [ Qh ]
somalian90 is all-In [ $12.71 USD ]
GDDC4 folds
somalian90 does not show cards.
somalian90 wins $16.13 USD

And here is the hand pasted from clipboard as suggested from PT4:

partypoker - $0.25 NL FAST (6 max) - Holdem - 6 players
Hand converted by PokerTracker 4: http://www.pokertracker.com

BTN: 100 BB (VPIP: 23.30, PFR: 19.00, 3Bet Preflop: 10.00, Hands: 284)
SB: 103.52 BB (VPIP: 15.76, PFR: 12.22, 3Bet Preflop: 7.58, Hands: 320)
BB: 57.84 BB (VPIP: 33.33, PFR: 25.00, 3Bet Preflop: 25.00, Hands: 15)
UTG: 107.36 BB (VPIP: 22.22, PFR: 20.37, 3Bet Preflop: 4.55, Hands: 55)
MP: 128.68 BB (VPIP: 20.83, PFR: 16.67, 3Bet Preflop: 6.25, Hands: 49)
Hero (CO): 137.16 BB

SB posts SB 0.4 BB, BB posts BB 1 BB

Pre Flop: (pot: 1.4 BB) Hero has Jd 9h
fold, fold, Hero raises to 2.8 BB, fold, fold, BB calls 1.8 BB

Flop : (6 BB, 2 players) 9d 8s Qc
BB checks, Hero checks

Turn : (6 BB, 2 players) Td
BB checks, Hero bets 4.2 BB, BB calls 4.2 BB

River : (14.4 BB, 2 players) Qh
BB bets 50.84 BB and is all-in, fold

BB wins 64.52 BB

Neither are accepted by the converter. What am I doing wrong?

PT4 has an option to get the HH in forum format. Just paste that. Don't use the converter.

got it thanks

Ok, how do you calculate the odds you are getting for a call on the river?

Like oftentimes in a TV spot X bets and the commentator states "he is / he is not getting the correct odds to call, only 2:1, 4:1 etc"

How do you calculate this since there is no more drawing?

Trimis de pe al meu SM-G930F folosind Tapatalk

amount in pot compared to the amount you have to call, same as on any other street?

Do you have to compare those pot odds to anything?

well, duh

What do you compare them to? Since there are no outs to make hand odds

Compare the price-to-call to the number of outs you have to win the hand.

Price to call is simple. $50 into a pot of $200. You are betting one "unit" to win 4 "units" (200/50=4) 4 = 25% ....you are paying 25% of the pot to win the full pot.... pretty good odds at times.

Number of outs to win the hand. Simplest way to start this is to look at a turn bet (with one card to go). You are on a flush draw (9 outs) or a OESD (8 outs for an open ended straight draw) or you have two pair and need to boat up (4 outs). You have to determine IF you have a chance to win EVEN IF you draw you miracle card. Just because a river heart gives you a flush with your 9h8h, will it win the hand? Sometimes people forget that fact.

There are 50 cards in the deck you don't know....minus the 4 board cards....so there are 46 cards left in the deck you do not know on the turn. You determine you will win if you hit your OESD with 8 outs. 8/46=17.4%. So every time you hit (17.4x in 100 identical chances) you win the pot. BUT (using the above 200/50 pricing) you are paying too high a price for that chance to hit your OESD when you have to pay 25% to win a 17.4% hand.

A second example to think about....you are on the river and your opponent bets 10% of the pot. You hold a bluff-beater hand (you can beat a bluff). If you think your opponent will bluff at least 10% of the time, this should be an snap call from you. Do you see why?



I suspect that when you heard the TV commentators talking about the odds to call on the river... it may have been something like the second scenario of mine...but most likely the hand was on the turn (or flop or PF)

Your chance to win the hand.

Assuming you don't have the nuts, the strength of your hand relative to the board and how it fares against villain's range given the information you've acquired throughout the course of the hand.

I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but if you look at a chart you will see that there are odds to hit on the turn, on the river, or on the turn OR river.

http://www.pokersyte.com/texas_holdem_poker_odds_6.htm

Can somebody tell me a good source for an Introduction to theoretical play/ranges/GTO?
I have been exposed to people talking about it quite a bit and actually I have a lot of knowledge about it somehow floating in my head. I understand almost everything when people (like Doug Polk) talk about it and it makes sense to me, but I actually never learned it from the ground up. It's like when you watch so much Anime that you actually understand some Japanese, but there is no solid base and thus it's not actually that useful for yourself.

I read multiple books already, some Sklansky Books and some other stuff (none of which talk about this), but while I it is obviously the absolute standard nowadays, I never read a good introduction to it, from the ground up, on how ranges etc work and all stuff I do read expect you to know it already.

So yeah, if anybody has a good source for that, would be much appreciated!

First, I'm going to tell you that you won't need to know much about Game Theory Optimal play when you're getting started because it will almost never come up.

When you are playing GTO, you are making yourself difficult to exploit, that is, you can play mathematically in a way that you aren't making mistakes and you won't lose money over a large sample size--but you won't make money either. An example of using GTO would be to learn the charts for optimal bluffing frequencies in certain situations. You're not making a mistake and you hope that your opponent will.

When you are playing low stakes, players will make a lot of mistakes, and you're going to go after them and exploit those mistakes. You will usually fold when a tight player makes a big raise from early position but you want to mix it up with a player playing way too many hands, because many will be weak hands. When you're starting out, take chips from the bad players and stay out of the way of the good ones.

Nothing in the above paragraph has anything to do with GTO. That said, if you want to know more about game theory, google "game theory" and "Vanessa Rousso" and you'll find some interesting videos. Rousso loves game theory and she gushes about it like a 13-year-old boy talking about hot cheerleaders.

As for understanding modern poker terminology, Google can help you with that as well. I just Googled "poker" and building a range" and the first thing that popped up was, "What Does Building a Range Mean? Beginning Poker Questions."

The short answer is Applications of NL.

Live poker tournament. Button is in seat 1. Blinds are 100-200.

UTG raises to 400.
UTG+1 raises to 1200.
Button puts 400 chips in pot with no verbal declaration. Claims they did not know it was raised to 1200, mucks cards.

Does Button get the chips back, do the chips stay in the pot, must Button call, or none of the above?

How do I get my notes/colour codes saved on PS on one computer into another?

Playing online, $.02/$.05.

Hero is dealt QQ on the button.

Folded around to hero who makes it $.15.

SB 3bets to $.45

Hero 4bets to $1.60.

SB folds.

It brought up a question in my mind: should I always take this kind of win with big pairs pre, or should I be playing to get stacks in OTF? I figure a guaranteed win by playing this way has to be better, but I'm not really sure on how it works out in the long run.

It's not a bad result, wanting to play for stacks depends, and it's not a guaranteed win

Winning 10bb is an above average result with QQ. The problem with this hand is that your 4b is far too big. I'd go 1.10 to 1.20.

When you face a bet on the river in live poker (or all in on any street) and you likely have the best hand and want to call without potentially wasting time counting the exact chips, is there a rule or convention on what amount you need to put in to qualify as call?
Is it enough to just put in a chip of any denomination and count after the hand if you lose?

Say call and deal with it later if needed

Hi there, first time poster and complete newbie to the game of poker. Apologies if the following question is too dumb even for a dumb questions thread, but here goes...

I'm using a hand range chart to learn how to act pre flop on NLHE 6Max. The chart tells me what to do when other players open raise and 3bet (based on my position versus their position).

Pre flop scenario:
SB - $1
BB - $2
UTG - Calls
MP - Folds
CO - Folds
BTN - Hero with A 9

Problem:
The chart doesn't tell me what to do if no-one has open raised but someone has called.

Questions:

1. Generally speaking, when using such charts, should I respond to a call in the same way as I respond to an open raise, a fold or should a completely different response be taken?
   
   
2. What would you do in this scenario?

Thanks for your help